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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Can you help me clear this up:
1) I didn't hear any noise like you mentioned from the rear brakes. So is it normal for the caliper and rotor to be damaged with no warning sign.
2) I had the shop look at the brakes same time last yr, and they said ok. Is it strange for the rear brakes to need this much work in a yr's time?
3) The shop said the front pads are still good. It's close to 5 yrs (~40K miles) since last brake service. Does it make sense that the front pads don't need changing?
4) The shop just drained the transmission fluid, but not drop the pan and replaced the filter. Was this right?
As for replacement intervals on these brake pads, it has been my repeated experience with Integras both old and new (and other Hondas too) that they actually tend to go through the rear pads faster than the front ones, which are typically much thicker, more heavy duty pads than the rears.
As for the transmission, draining just the fluid and replacing it will do for now. I hope that was a very small part of the price.
bossmnpl: it is likely to be a synchro going bad, and no, if you don't know whether or not you can do it yourself, then you can't. It's a lot of work and expensive for a shop to do. My advice would be nurse it for a while - it will probably last quite a long time that way - and try to rev-match shifts into third gear. Try not to race it too much! Smooth shifts will be easier at lower rpms.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I'm thinking that if the shop did a good job checking it, I could've avoided the expensive rear brake job now....hmmm....this means I better find another shop that takes more time and care about inspecting my car.
Labor for tranny fluid change was only $23. So that's reasonable given it was done at the same time as the brake job. Originally, it was going to be $40-50 if done alone.
In my experience, this means they never looked at them at all. But then, I am a cynic. In general, anything the shop tosses out as an offhand remark is worthless, whereas anything they put down on your write-up is meaningful (they know they can only be held to what they put down in black and white on your invoice). And CERTAINLY, if you PAY for a brake check, you should get in return a write-up of exactly what portion of your brakes is remaining.
And you're right, you could have saved $300-400 by replacing the brake pads before you chewed up the calipers and rotors.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
After spending $2000, I've learned a few lessons on what I need to do to keep the car in good shape and how to ask the right questions.
I should be more specific when speaking to people in the shop. Instead of saying 'Pls check my brakes', I should say 'Please tell me how thick the brake pads are and whether they need to be changed soon'.
It should be 2-3 yrs before another round of maintenance is due for me. I think I'd better find another shop.
You decide if the articles are trustworthy since they're from an automotive shop.
Good luck in finding a reputable shop. By the way, shops that provide quality service and know what they're doing will charge more.
About a week ago it started making this clicking, almost knocking sound when I started up the car. After revving it a few times or driving for a few minutes, the sound went away. This lasted a couple of days, but then it got worse. I tried to start it up one night, (I don't know if this matters but it was REALLY cold. Record lows.) and it wouldn't start. it was like... chugging. The whole car would rock as the car tried to start itself, but it wouldn't. After waiting a while I tried again, and it started fine.
It did that for two days, and now it's chugging again. I trun the key in the ignition to start the car. It seems to start going, but then it starts to slowly... stop running. It's like the engine starts to steadily "lose steam."
I discovered by accident that if I rev the engine when it starts to die, it will "catch" and start running smoothly. There are no other problems with it--once it's started, it's smooth and I haven't noticed any drag or noises. It's not even knocking anymore.
But I'm really worried and scared to drive it. I have no idea what's wrong with the car, if it's something simple or if I have to take it to a shop. I really can't afford to take it to the shop, I just bought it, so it's a last resort. Please, please help. Does anyone know what's going on??
She has a LIGHT next to the shifter but it is staying on and draining the battery.
does any one know what is that light for and how do i fix to turn it off to stop draining the battery??
I'm looking to buy a 97 Integra "Anniversary edition".
The seller is currently unavailable, so does anyone know what equipment the anniv. edition came with.
Specifically, did it have A/C,Sunroof, Power door locks and remote trunk release?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
There was a Special Edition Integra but I am pretty sure they only came out in '96. They basically had power everything (like an Integra LS), A/C, and possibly alloy wheels. Not sure about the moon roof though.
NONE of the 3d generation Integras ('94-01) had a remote trunk release, BUT, the hatch door is part of the power lock system so once you unlocked the doors, all you had to do is open it from the outside, without needing a key. When you lock the doors, the hatch door locks as well, and the other way around. You could lock the hatch with the key (engine key), and all the doors will lock.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
If i find the problem I'll make sure to post it.
Any options other than replacing the catalytic converter?
To reduce NOX you want a leaner mix is that right?
Anyone familiar with this installation? Is there any kind of online manual with a picture of where it goes?
Thanks!
Dave
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=222
Need to have it serviced and Acura is quoting me over $500.00 for service, and Honda is quoting me a bit over $300.00.
Any opinions on where the price should be and is there a difference between going to Honda or Acura?
Thanks!
Gerri
Will do! Thanks!
I will pull into a parking spot and shift the car into Park. However, on the gear indicator on the dashboard, where it says P R N D etc, it doesn't light up to Park even though I have shifted it into Park. At this point, I cannot turn the car off; it is almost as if the car is between Drive and Park. Eventually, it will "click" and then light up on the dashboard, and then I can shut off the car. Sometimes this is 4-5 minutes and can be a real hassle.
I am considering buying a 2000 acura intergra gs with automatic and 83k miles for about 7.5k. But I am a bit hesitant given that it is the most likely to be stolen.
I live in houston and wanted some views on how big a problem that might be?
Thanks.
and, contrary to 1harry, the car does have an interior remote trunk release...
i saw your email as part of my search to get more information about the anniversary edition..
Shane
TIA!!
Also, The breaks are fairly new but brake light stays on even though breaks are not on and has enough break fluid.
Looks like sensor issue to me. Any thoughts?
How do you do this. I would like to check the same.