Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

dhoff · June 2001

We have a 99 Quest with about 45,000 miles on it. Our brakes are still good. The rotors may be warped a LITTLE, but not nearly enough to get it fixed.

I have rotated my own tires, except for one time when I had the dealer do it. They properly torqued the lug nuts.

When I rotate my tires, I always use the lug wrench in the van (the one for changing a flat tire), for 2 reasons. One, because the wrench is so short, there is no chance of overtorquing the nuts (which will warp the rotors) and two, if we ever get a flat, I know I will be able to remove the wheel with the wrench in the van.

Once I had Sam's club rotate the tires on my previous car. I decided to check the lug nuts the next day, because they had put on the hubcaps wrong and I lost one. I could not get the nuts to budge with the wrench. I ended up having to put a 5' long pipe on the wrench and literally jump on it to loosen them. I'll never let them touch any of our cars again.

You might want to check how tight the lug nuts are on your van to see if they overtightened them.

Dave

sschnath · June 2001

The transmission on my '99 Villager has developed a squeak when upshifting. Dealer can't hear it. Neither can my wife. It's pretty subtle but it definitely exists.

At first I thought it only happened when the AC was on --I thought it might have something to do with the AC compressor clutch. Now I'm not so sure it makes a difference whether the AC is on or off.

I remember someone else posting about this issue some months back. Has anyone figured out what it is or is it even something to be concerned about? I can live with it as long as it isn't trouble in the making.

Also, I've noticed that downshifts can be particularly rough on this vehicle, to the point where sometimes the whole vehicle shudders when it downshifts from 4th to 2nd and sometimes shudders when it upshifts back. We won't see this in driving around town obviously, but it can be very pronounced on the highway, either when we're attempting to pass or if the vehicle is just on cruise control and encounters a grade it considers too steep.

The transmission doesn't seem very sophisticated. Once it downshifts it can sometimes take longer to shift back than I would expect. This is annoying but I can deal with it. But the shudder is violent enough that I think something's not right, especially where it doesn't happen all the time.

My dealer couldn't reproduce the problem. Has anyone had similar experiences? I'm leaning towards motor mounts but the dealer supposedly looked at them and couldn't find a problem.

sschnath · June 2001

I can relate to your Sam's club experience. Twice I bought new tires for my Vision at BJ's Wholesale Club (Sam's club equivalent).

I had my mechanic perform the first rotations and both times he told me if I had a flat on the road, I never would have been able to remove the nuts. He almost couldn't get them off with his power driver.

I also had warping issues afterward on both occasions. I tried to give them the benefit of the doubt after the first experience, but the torque matrix that's posted on the wall right in front of the mechanics is apparently just wallpaper. They obviously don't look at it.

In my opinion, any money you save on the tires at those places you'll spend on follow-up service elsewhere, and you could end up spending more. I'll never go back.

lenster · June 2001

Mechanic calls to inform me that the lower bushing for the driver side control arm is causing this thumping noise I was complaining about. Two Ford dealers informed us that we had to buy the entire control arm assembly at $280 CDN per unit. No aftermarket parts available. After a discussion with the Nissan parts counter guy, we decided to try a Maxima bushing, which came separate (like it should be). Works like a charm. Not enough that Ford sticks it to you with the manifold stud problem, but they force you to pay $280 for a $30 part!

gasguzz · July 2001

is the oem supplier (there is an S stamp on the cap). The locking Stant 11591 (verify the part no. again) should be available from any parts store, and it works without lighting the Check Engine. The downside, you won't be able to use the oem cap lanyard, unless you devise something (which really is not a prob unless you tend to leave the cap at the pump).
You guys need to get a Torque Wrench, it is as useful as a floor jack and the cost is minimal to gain substantial performance. The key is consistency... while you may not overtorque with a short lug wrench only a click-micrometer wrench can apply it evenly. Torquing between 80-90 lbs is not significant in terms of lug nut compression, but having ONE identical torque value throughout IS.

eckel1 · July 2001

I am thinking about buying a 1999 Mercury Villager Sport........Please give me some feedback on this van!! Do you like it?? Any problems with this van??

diexodos1 · July 2001

I have had a 1998 Villager for 3 years. The van is comfortable and drives great. Overall it has been a reliable van. My two complaints are: 1. Cupping of rear tire. Alignment will not fix the problem. You have to rotate tires every 6-10,00 miles. I can live with this problem, because I can still get 40,000 miles from the tires.
2. A/C problems. A/C gave up at 25,000. Took it to the dealer and replaced control panel switches. Problem re-occurred at 31,000 miles but it was disappeared after a week. Now, the car has 39,000 miles, and the A/C is acting strange. It kicks on and off whenever it feels ilks. Press the A/I button and wait for it to come on. Sometimes, I need up press the A/C button ten times to get it going. Called the dealer and Ford. They will do a diagnostic test ($140) and if problem is related to switches, they will pay for the repair ( I am still stuck with the diagnostic bill). I am concerned how often do I need to deal with this problem. Anyone else has experienced similar problems with A/C. I read 200 messages and overwhelmed with owner problems. We can add this problem to the list.

saabturboid · July 2001

Well, I think I'm starting to encounter the dreaded broken manifold bolt problem on my '94 Villager. I just took the Van on a 2,000 mile road trip in 100(f) temperatures, and now I can hear a leak in the engine compartment.

The van has 102k miles on it, and is also in need of a new timing belt, and probably the regular belts and hoses too. Should I go to the dealer for these fixes, or would a good independent shop be a better bet. I want the job done right, but I don't want to get taken for a ride either.

- Chad

grichardson · July 2001

OD here is the deal, I have a 94 Nissan quest and just went thought the same thing that you are going through now .... Back in April I got my timing belt water pump etc. replaced at the dealer. The cost was about $500.plus bucks... The dealer will give you a 1 year warranty on the work that they do... plus they will tighten the belts to spec... As far as the exhaust manifolds.. I called around to some of the exhaust experts and told them my problem with the manifolds studs.. They ALL know about the problem because according to one guy "we fix the manifolds studs all the time on villager and quest..thats a common problem with the vans."$ 600 bucks later I had all of the studs removed and replaced however I also had a cracked rear manifold itself. The work was done at Midas...Now my wife is happy because the ticking loud noise is gone

saabturboid · July 2001

Grichardson, thanks for mentioning the prices you paid for the repairs because now I have a better idea of what I'm in for. Does Midas warranty the manifold work? If they offer a lifetime warranty, that might be the best way to go.

Also, how long did you live with the 'ticking' noise? Did it continue to get worse? Right now I can put up with the noise, but if it gets louder I'll have to do something.

On a somewhat lighter note; I wonder if there are aftermarket headers (performance exhaust manifolds) available for this engine? The van could really use more power and opening up the exhaust might help. Since this is a similar engine to the ones used in many other Nissan products maybe aftermarket headers are available.

- Chad

grichardson · July 2001

Midas will give you only a 1 year parts and laber warrenty.. After about a year and a half the noise got so bad that my wife did not want to drive it anymore...Hence Forcing me to get the work done. My other car a 1994 Honda accord EX has 121999 miles with zero problems.. Best car I have ever own in my life. Other then the exhaust work on the Quest It has also be reliable..

robynj · July 2001

I was just wondering if anyone has had a continous problem with a shake @ 65-70mph. Our quest is also having a problem with holding an alignment. Every time I take it in, it is out of align. We have purchased new tires and everything, and are still having a problem. They keep telling me that it is always a tire out of balance and sending me on my way, but the problem continues and I am starting to wonder if we bought a lemon. It is fine just easing around town - BUT just take a trip - which is what we bought the van for. The steering wheel just shakes all the time on the highway or interstates. The van only has 29,000 miles, isnt this kind of early for these type of problems....Someone please help, and maybe I will have some ammo when I go back AGAIN to the dealer.

Thanks - Robyn in Alabama

stever · July 2001

Most strange -- this is the second post this week with problems going 65 to 70 mph. Maybe you need to compare notes with ktill:

ktill "Nissan Quest" Jul 14, 2001 9:13pm

Most likely it's just a bad balancing job on your new tires. After ruling that out, did the dealer check to make sure the wheels themselves aren't out of round or bent? Were the rack bolts inspected/tightened (there's a recall on this one for certain models). Other suspects could include rubber bushings, ball joints, CV joints, tie rods, or tire under inflation.

Steve
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robynj · July 2001

Thanks Steve for the suggestions on our van. I did contact the dealer about the recall on the rack bolts. When I looked up this particular recall, I thought, "HE, this is our problem!", it described my problem to a "I". Also, I had the guy that sold us our new tires tell me that this would most certainly cause a problem with the alignment since it had to do with the steering. BUT, guess what, the dealer informed us that our van had already been taken in for this recall (We bought the van I/13,000 miles on it). Anyway, they cannot convince me now that this is not the problem, and I am refusing to let them give up on it. We have an appointment to take the van tomorrow, and I am riding with them. Someone is going to fix it, or hear from my attorney, sounds like negligence to me!! Anyway, all of this to say thank you so much!!

Robin in Alabama

leomc · July 2001

I have a 92 Dodge Grand Caravan that has been very reliable through the years but am now looking for a new minivan. I originaly was going to get another Grand Caravan. I drove the Quest and am impressed with the handling and power. I would appreciate any input.

stever · July 2001

Since it's soon to be an orphan (or maybe it's just the time of year), there's some dealer incentives out there. Check the Incentives and Rebates for your area.

Steve
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robynj · July 2001

I am a first time mini-van owner, and at this moment, a very unhappy one. We have had a vibration in our steering wheel, since we purchased our 2000 Quest last November. We were told yesterday, by our dealer that the tires that Nissan , yes Nissan themselves put on the van are not compatible with our van. Make sure that if you test drive another Quest, that you take it out on the highway for several miles and get up to about 65-70mph, to check for steering wheel oscillation vibration. We bought our van with Goodyear Eagles on it, which is what Nissan puts on alot of there vans. We are very unhappy, and our dealer here which is Bondy's Nissan in Dothan, Alabama, has pretty much told us, sorry it is a tire problem you fix it. Anyway, a word of advice drive it hard and long,you may be glad you did, as they told me yesterday, that they have one on there lot with 7 miles on it doing the same thing. GOOD LUCK! Dont you just love car salesman????????

Robyn in Alabama

stever · July 2001

If your dealer is passing the buck to Nissan, I'd contact the regional rep and tell him what you were told. Sounds to me like the dealer is shining you on. There should be some contact info in your manual. Please keep us posted.

Steve
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gasguzz · July 2001

Are they the 225/60-16 GY Eagle LS? Nothing out-of-spec with that selection (in fact, that's oem). Some have reported better tires but the GY LS is no slouch either. Tires have their own warranties (where claims are normally serviced by your car dealer), but have you approached a GY dealer? Seems you still have a few remaining questions which need to be eliminated. Are all the miles on your van yours? Tires are only one component with front end vibration. Take the tires off and check the wheels (bent/out-of-round). Move the rear to front? Front rotor warpage? Good luck.

legion · July 2001

I have a 2000 mercury villager with 25k miles, it seems when the transmission shifts fron 2nd into drive there is a delay then thumps hard, no noises or anything, it just shifts hard. what should i do i dont trust dealerships.

gnart · July 2001

My new 2001 Quest SE exhibits a high pitch air drawing noise when I press on the pedal. This noise can be heard when the windows are closed, the A/C on and the air vent dial to draw air. The more gas I feed it to go from the stop position, the higher the pitch. Does anyone know what's the cause of this and has anyone seen/heard of similar symptom on the new vehicle. I have not taken in the vehicle in yet.

Thanks in advance.

kuljinder · July 2001

I just bought a 1994 Nissan Quest XE, I have 168000 kilometers on it. My question is when I sit in the back seat or the middle seat, I hear this low pitch humming sound. I'm very curious because I just bought this vehicle a little over a month ago. So if you can please help me thank you. You could email me at k_gakhal@hotmail.com

Thanx Alot
Kuljinder

stever · July 2001

I think the hum is your fuel pump. It may just be noticeable to you. Or it may be about to go, or perhaps the fuel filter is clogged. I don't hear mine.

(gnart - no clue).

Steve
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wg45678 · July 2001

You didn't tell us what kind of vibration. Is is side to side, up/down? Does it get worse with more speed or smooth out?

The dealer is definitely shining you on with the
tire mismatch excuse. He simply doesn't want to find it. Go to some other Nissan dealer. Be sure to note to them the type of vibration and when it occurs (normal driving, braking, etc). YOu could have a balance problem (tires, wheels, driveshafts), a tire out of round problem, or you could have a shimmy from a bad tire, bad alignment or other steering part problem.

FYI: A shimmy you will usually just feel in the steering wheel as a side to side oscillation at a particular speed range. A balance problem you will feel in the steering wheel with a up/down fore/aft motion and you'll feel it in the seat and floorboards.

kuljinder · July 2001

I have a 1994 Nissan Quest XE, my question is that when i hit the brakes lightly when i'm stopping at a traffic light or something, i hear this grinding noise. I think it's the brakes. Can someone please give me some advice on this problem!!!

Thanx

gnart · July 2001

My '01 Quest, 800 miles on it, exhibits the same symptom as NYcommuter1 post #649. Intermittently on starting, it makes a funny noise. It sounds like the starter. It does this only once for the day. Does anyone else experience this?

NYcommuter1 did you ever find out what the problem was?

Also, does anyone know if the fabric seats have been scotch guarded at the factory or should I have it scotch guard?

How about treatment on the car to keep the bird dropping (I had to remove the explicit in order to post this message - Townhall user's agreement :>) acid from eating or discoloring the clear coat?

Thanks in advance for your input.

drew_ · July 2001

Sounds to me like it may be that you just need to have your brakes cleaned, or you may need new pads.

Drew
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gasguzz · July 2001

Most (if not all) new cars probably come with scotchguard on the seats already, as is with carpets. This is also the reason why dealers don't sell the "scocthguard treatment" anymore - it's common knowledge (as makers may require it of seat/carpet material suppliers). It's not a big seller since it's RESISTANT and not STAIN-PROOF, much like nobody advertises under-coating anymore (it's a given). Of course, once in a while someone will come over and "its got the optional clearcoat protection for only $800". Do yourself a favor and get a can for $4 (just remember, kids CAN stain anything).
If you let it sit long enough, there is NO defense against bird-drops and tree-saps (apply some car wax over it and clean it off).

gnart · August 2001

Thanks for the input gasguzz. The wax doesn't seem to do anything for the offcolor of what seems to be bird dropping. It may be factory paint problem. I will talk to the dealer to see what come off of it.

Thanks again for the input.

izaclown · September 2001

I had a 95 Villager that would shaken @ 45 mph like the entire thing was running down a washboard road at 70 mph. It only happened if the back brakes wee ever adjusted. They were trying to lock up. Traded it for 2000 Vilager below.

My 2000 Villager has GY Eagle LS 225x60 R16 and the belts on all 4 tires had separated laterally before 10K that was causing vibrations. Replaced them and had one to separate at the tread and side wall. I finally replaced them with Firestone FT-70c.

izaclown · September 2001

I have had problems with the headlight wiring harness. Light worked when it wanted to or I could jiggle the socket and it would come on. I had a Ford place to work on it twice without any luck (while on vacation). Took it the local Merc. dealer, the harness was replaced. Hope that will fix it for good.

blinders · September 2001

According to Nissan, clunk will occur after sitting for several days w/o starting the engine. They say (according to service writer who called Nissan today) that it has to to with trying to pump the freon, and will not cause any lasting problems. Sounds like BS to me. Seems like bearings in A/C don't stay lubed and freeze up after sitting for several days. Any other opinions out there?

blinders · September 2001

Any other 2001 SE owners get a vibration (like tires are out of balance) above 45 MPH? Mine did right out of the showroom, and after trying to get Goodyear and Nissan to settle the "Who is at fault" issue, I got Nissan to buy new Michelins. They solved the problem immediately. Goodyear said they had a bulletin from "Ford" (builds it) stating that the suspension is so tweaked that it will require special tires that must be hand-picked off the line. Nissan denied that, but bought the tires, after I had four sets of Goodyears on during the first week. Its the Goodyear tires that suck. The van handles unbelieveably well after the switch (I had a 95 Quest prior to this one).

cookie22 · September 2001

My 99 Estate is going in the shop for the second time for a sway bar replacement in the 34000 mi. I've had this Van (which drives very well) I've had the 2 Sway bars, 1 Radio, 1 Remote control and a part for a broken back seat replaced. I really hate to see it go off warrenty. Looking very hard at a Kia EX.

miab · September 2001

I have been having problem with power locks for sometime and now my power windows,locks does not work at all and dash board lights are gone.I also watched CBS news reporting about villager abd Quest vans power lock problems.Why isn't there any recalls on it?

cookie22 · September 2001

Just got off the phone with the dealer about the remote on my Villager Estate. They had to order a new one . Also the piviot on the rear seat come in. They ordered it last MAY. Still waiting on the sway bar bushings that have already been replaced once. That 10 year warrenty on the Kia looks good to me.

gasguzz · September 2001

Not to dispute anyone but that's unusual to me... How can a tire from the same (rubber-stamp) production line be "better" than the one following it. Isn't that the Ford/Firestone blame scenario. The wife's 01-VillSport has the same 225/60-16 LS Eagles (which I just rotated at 5k) and it runs smooth and wears evenly. Could there be quite possibly a bad batch. What psi are you running with (I'm at 40) - could there be "sweet spot".

revka · September 2001

According to the information on my 99 SE quest, the manufacturer recommends 35 psi on both front and rear tires ( 225/60-16 LS Eagles). That's actually what is stated on label in my glove box.

No problems with vibration on my tires, but according to my service advisor there have been some reported problems with tire vibration on these tires. So maybe there is a bad batch out there.

Revka
(formerly "pocahontas")
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gasguzz · September 2001

True on the psi (says on the glove box and was delivered at that spec). The tires are rated for 44(45?) max. Per our load/driving use, I set it at 40psi.

revka · September 2001

they're figuring in factors such as the weight of the vehicle and etc. I was always told to go by the manufacturer recommended psi, not the specs on the side wall. Of course if your tires have been doing fine, not too much wear in the middle, then perhaps there's no need to worry. May not be a bad idea for people to check with their Nissan service on this. Happy Motoring. ;-)

Revka
(formerly "pocahontas")
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faruqim · September 2001

My SE's tires Eagle LS are also rated for 45 psi Max. Just like gasguzz, I have set it to 40 psi. Origninally the van was delivered with 35 psi. Since I had never checked the glove compartment; I thought the Dealer made a mistake in pumping it to 35 psi. I guess we are OK as long as it is within the tire manufacturer's range. As suggested by pocahontas (Revka), it is a good idea to check with Nissan.

revka · September 2001

To faruqim & Gasguzz: Well I have heard that more air in the tires will improve the mpg? Have either of you noticed an improvement with the 40 psi? Although, I think it might also make for a firmer ride. Yes/no? I actually keep my rear tires a pound or two lower (33/34 psi) to soften the ride a little. I rotate them every 5k to prevent abnormal wear.

To everyone- Since I've seen a few posts from people mentioning that they have to clean their throttle on a regular basis, because it has a tendency to stick..., I thought I should mention there is a TSB out on that. Here are the details.

TSB number: NTB00-083, Date: October 17, 2000
1999-00 QUEST DRIVEABILITY INCIDENTS / THROTTLE CHAMBER DEPOSITS

APPLIED VEHICLE: 1999-00 Quest (V41)
SERVICE INFORMATION
If a 1999-00 Quest exhibits the driveability incidents listed below, the cause may be throttle chamber deposits.

^ Idle speed fluctuation
^ Incorrect idle speed
^ Increased accelerator pedal resistance
^ Difficulty accelerating smoothly from a stop

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Check for and clean throttle chamber deposits as follows:
A. Disconnect the air inlet duct from the throttle chamber.
B. Open the throttle valve and check for deposits. If deposits exist, use genuine Nissan carburetor spray cleaner (P/N 999MP-A3001P) and a toothbrush (if needed) to remove all deposits.
C. Re-connect the air inlet duct.

2. Check the engine oil level and correct as necessary. Also, advise the customer that it is important not to overfill the engine oil level (i.e., not above the "H" mark on the dipstick). Maintaining proper engine oil level (not overfilling) will help prevent recurrence of these incidents. Refer to the Owner's Manual for the proper engine oil level.

3. Start the engine and let it warm up (coolant temp = 70°C/158°F minimum) before performing the next step.

4. Check and adjust (if necessary) the base engine idle speed using CONSULT (in "Work Support" mode). Refer to the EC section in the Service Manual for procedure details and specifications.

Btw, prior to this tsb, many dealers were charging their customers a maintenance fee to do this... as opposed to fixing it on the 36/36 warranty. Hope this is helpful.

;-)

Revka
(formerly "pocahontas")
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dhoff · September 2001

Thanks for posting that. I've become very familiar with steps 1 A-C, having done it in my garage 3 or 4 times now.

Good thing to know about the oil level. I change my own oil, and I've noticed that 4 quarts exactly brings it up to "full" on the dipstick. The recommended amount in the owner's manual is I believe 4 3/8 quarts. Since I've been using 4 quarts, I've noticed less of a buildup of deposits in the throttle body.

Dave

gasguzz · September 2001

Increased mpg at 40psi... probably (but at an insignificant amount I don't notice). I did notice increased traction response but at a stiffer ride (your choice, I prefer performance over comfort with the wife's/toddlers car). Is there an increase in road noise... probably (but it's not like the Quest/Villager is Lexus quiet to begin with).
Car makers GENERALLY set psi specs to augment comfort and noise levels, and are conservative in not knowing the EXACT use at the consumer level. When the van was delivered I noticed the "soft profile" and sure enough they were set up to spec at 35psi. I tested them the following day (with the "normal" load minus the family) at 40psi and "now, they better". The Eagle-LS is a performance series and can be tweaked to fit your driving/use (meaning I would not use this setup if I regularly haul bags of Quikrete for 200 miles).

activex111 · October 2001

planning to buy a 93 villager with 72K miles on it.. the car looks in good condition.. any particular problems that i shud look for or worry about? 93 villager owners, any input?
Also, whats a good price for this...
thanks

stever · October 2001

Check out Edmunds True Market Value for pricing info. And watch out for the manifold studs (click on Subtopics in the box to see the problems list).

Steve
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activex111 · October 2001

Thanks Steve.. i am planning to purchase this from a private party.. i test drove it and checked whatever i cud visually do.. can u give me some tips about some specific things to look for.. how do i check those manifold studs?
btw, ur site is very informative... great work

stever · October 2001

Thank you but that's a different Steve running the Villager Quest FAQs :-) (if you do mean this Edmunds site, it's the Town Hall members that should take the credit).

I'm no wrench turner. I'd suggest paying a mechanic to have the van looked at and let him or her check the manifold studs. Other stuff to look at in that vintage car (any car) would be the A/C, brakes, tranny, etc.

The other specific Quest/Villager problems that I can recall off-hand are the door locks and a rough idle from a dirty throttle body. Good luck!

Steve
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jcork · October 2001

In response to #680, I have the same starting problems. Cranking the engine over and over, the van won't start. So I stop, turn the key off all the way, then try again and it usually starts after that. I have checked everything, I cannot find the problem. I am too cheap to take it to a dealer. I wonder if it is my ignition switch or something simple like that...

jcork · October 2001

Well, I spent a couple of hours here, reading every posting and I have to say that we all have something in common: A van that is like any other auto in the world - imperfect. However, I still like mine. Here is a list of problems I have had since day one:
1. Brake squeal - 2 sets of pads and one rotor (driver side) later they still squeak.
2. 105,000 mile timing belt went out at 70,000 miles. I replaced the water pump, serpentines, and an idler while I was at it.
3. Fuel stench and leaking from tank, found out that there was a recall AFTER I paid $80 to get it fixed at dealer. Nissan reimbursed me after I called them and faxed the bill to them.
4. Steering wheel squeals. Still does it, I don't care.
5. Tranny had been slipping into what feels like "neutral" during traffic stop and go. Pops back into gear by itself. Had it flushed at 40k, and again at about 76k after this problem surfaced, seems to be ok now.
6. Wont start sometimes. It cranks and cranks but doesn't fire up. I am still struggling with this one...
7. Check engine light - found fried hose behind the EGR valve where you cannot see and you can barely get your hand into. This is after I replaced all hoses and the light still came on, took me 2-3 months to figger out. Car still ran fine with that crazy light on...

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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