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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
I have rotated my own tires, except for one time when I had the dealer do it. They properly torqued the lug nuts.
When I rotate my tires, I always use the lug wrench in the van (the one for changing a flat tire), for 2 reasons. One, because the wrench is so short, there is no chance of overtorquing the nuts (which will warp the rotors) and two, if we ever get a flat, I know I will be able to remove the wheel with the wrench in the van.
Once I had Sam's club rotate the tires on my previous car. I decided to check the lug nuts the next day, because they had put on the hubcaps wrong and I lost one. I could not get the nuts to budge with the wrench. I ended up having to put a 5' long pipe on the wrench and literally jump on it to loosen them. I'll never let them touch any of our cars again.
You might want to check how tight the lug nuts are on your van to see if they overtightened them.
Dave
At first I thought it only happened when the AC was on --I thought it might have something to do with the AC compressor clutch. Now I'm not so sure it makes a difference whether the AC is on or off.
I remember someone else posting about this issue some months back. Has anyone figured out what it is or is it even something to be concerned about? I can live with it as long as it isn't trouble in the making.
Also, I've noticed that downshifts can be particularly rough on this vehicle, to the point where sometimes the whole vehicle shudders when it downshifts from 4th to 2nd and sometimes shudders when it upshifts back. We won't see this in driving around town obviously, but it can be very pronounced on the highway, either when we're attempting to pass or if the vehicle is just on cruise control and encounters a grade it considers too steep.
The transmission doesn't seem very sophisticated. Once it downshifts it can sometimes take longer to shift back than I would expect. This is annoying but I can deal with it. But the shudder is violent enough that I think something's not right, especially where it doesn't happen all the time.
My dealer couldn't reproduce the problem. Has anyone had similar experiences? I'm leaning towards motor mounts but the dealer supposedly looked at them and couldn't find a problem.
I had my mechanic perform the first rotations and both times he told me if I had a flat on the road, I never would have been able to remove the nuts. He almost couldn't get them off with his power driver.
I also had warping issues afterward on both occasions. I tried to give them the benefit of the doubt after the first experience, but the torque matrix that's posted on the wall right in front of the mechanics is apparently just wallpaper. They obviously don't look at it.
In my opinion, any money you save on the tires at those places you'll spend on follow-up service elsewhere, and you could end up spending more. I'll never go back.
You guys need to get a Torque Wrench, it is as useful as a floor jack and the cost is minimal to gain substantial performance. The key is consistency... while you may not overtorque with a short lug wrench only a click-micrometer wrench can apply it evenly. Torquing between 80-90 lbs is not significant in terms of lug nut compression, but having ONE identical torque value throughout IS.
2. A/C problems. A/C gave up at 25,000. Took it to the dealer and replaced control panel switches. Problem re-occurred at 31,000 miles but it was disappeared after a week. Now, the car has 39,000 miles, and the A/C is acting strange. It kicks on and off whenever it feels ilks. Press the A/I button and wait for it to come on. Sometimes, I need up press the A/C button ten times to get it going. Called the dealer and Ford. They will do a diagnostic test ($140) and if problem is related to switches, they will pay for the repair ( I am still stuck with the diagnostic bill). I am concerned how often do I need to deal with this problem. Anyone else has experienced similar problems with A/C. I read 200 messages and overwhelmed with owner problems. We can add this problem to the list.
The van has 102k miles on it, and is also in need of a new timing belt, and probably the regular belts and hoses too. Should I go to the dealer for these fixes, or would a good independent shop be a better bet. I want the job done right, but I don't want to get taken for a ride either.
- Chad
Also, how long did you live with the 'ticking' noise? Did it continue to get worse? Right now I can put up with the noise, but if it gets louder I'll have to do something.
On a somewhat lighter note; I wonder if there are aftermarket headers (performance exhaust manifolds) available for this engine? The van could really use more power and opening up the exhaust might help. Since this is a similar engine to the ones used in many other Nissan products maybe aftermarket headers are available.
- Chad
Thanks - Robyn in Alabama
ktill "Nissan Quest" Jul 14, 2001 9:13pm
Most likely it's just a bad balancing job on your new tires. After ruling that out, did the dealer check to make sure the wheels themselves aren't out of round or bent? Were the rack bolts inspected/tightened (there's a recall on this one for certain models). Other suspects could include rubber bushings, ball joints, CV joints, tie rods, or tire under inflation.
Steve
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Robin in Alabama
Steve
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Robyn in Alabama
Steve
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Thanks in advance.
Thanx Alot
Kuljinder
(gnart - no clue).
Steve
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The dealer is definitely shining you on with the
tire mismatch excuse. He simply doesn't want to find it. Go to some other Nissan dealer. Be sure to note to them the type of vibration and when it occurs (normal driving, braking, etc). YOu could have a balance problem (tires, wheels, driveshafts), a tire out of round problem, or you could have a shimmy from a bad tire, bad alignment or other steering part problem.
FYI: A shimmy you will usually just feel in the steering wheel as a side to side oscillation at a particular speed range. A balance problem you will feel in the steering wheel with a up/down fore/aft motion and you'll feel it in the seat and floorboards.
Thanx
NYcommuter1 did you ever find out what the problem was?
Also, does anyone know if the fabric seats have been scotch guarded at the factory or should I have it scotch guard?
How about treatment on the car to keep the bird dropping (I had to remove the explicit in order to post this message - Townhall user's agreement :>) acid from eating or discoloring the clear coat?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Drew
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If you let it sit long enough, there is NO defense against bird-drops and tree-saps (apply some car wax over it and clean it off).
Thanks again for the input.
My 2000 Villager has GY Eagle LS 225x60 R16 and the belts on all 4 tires had separated laterally before 10K that was causing vibrations. Replaced them and had one to separate at the tread and side wall. I finally replaced them with Firestone FT-70c.
No problems with vibration on my tires, but according to my service advisor there have been some reported problems with tire vibration on these tires. So maybe there is a bad batch out there.
Revka
(formerly "pocahontas")
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Revka
(formerly "pocahontas")
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To everyone- Since I've seen a few posts from people mentioning that they have to clean their throttle on a regular basis, because it has a tendency to stick..., I thought I should mention there is a TSB out on that. Here are the details.
TSB number: NTB00-083, Date: October 17, 2000
1999-00 QUEST DRIVEABILITY INCIDENTS / THROTTLE CHAMBER DEPOSITS
APPLIED VEHICLE: 1999-00 Quest (V41)
SERVICE INFORMATION
If a 1999-00 Quest exhibits the driveability incidents listed below, the cause may be throttle chamber deposits.
^ Idle speed fluctuation
^ Incorrect idle speed
^ Increased accelerator pedal resistance
^ Difficulty accelerating smoothly from a stop
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Check for and clean throttle chamber deposits as follows:
A. Disconnect the air inlet duct from the throttle chamber.
B. Open the throttle valve and check for deposits. If deposits exist, use genuine Nissan carburetor spray cleaner (P/N 999MP-A3001P) and a toothbrush (if needed) to remove all deposits.
C. Re-connect the air inlet duct.
2. Check the engine oil level and correct as necessary. Also, advise the customer that it is important not to overfill the engine oil level (i.e., not above the "H" mark on the dipstick). Maintaining proper engine oil level (not overfilling) will help prevent recurrence of these incidents. Refer to the Owner's Manual for the proper engine oil level.
3. Start the engine and let it warm up (coolant temp = 70°C/158°F minimum) before performing the next step.
4. Check and adjust (if necessary) the base engine idle speed using CONSULT (in "Work Support" mode). Refer to the EC section in the Service Manual for procedure details and specifications.
Btw, prior to this tsb, many dealers were charging their customers a maintenance fee to do this... as opposed to fixing it on the 36/36 warranty. Hope this is helpful.
;-)
Revka
(formerly "pocahontas")
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Good thing to know about the oil level. I change my own oil, and I've noticed that 4 quarts exactly brings it up to "full" on the dipstick. The recommended amount in the owner's manual is I believe 4 3/8 quarts. Since I've been using 4 quarts, I've noticed less of a buildup of deposits in the throttle body.
Dave
Car makers GENERALLY set psi specs to augment comfort and noise levels, and are conservative in not knowing the EXACT use at the consumer level. When the van was delivered I noticed the "soft profile" and sure enough they were set up to spec at 35psi. I tested them the following day (with the "normal" load minus the family) at 40psi and "now, they better". The Eagle-LS is a performance series and can be tweaked to fit your driving/use (meaning I would not use this setup if I regularly haul bags of Quikrete for 200 miles).
Also, whats a good price for this...
thanks
Steve
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btw, ur site is very informative... great work
I'm no wrench turner. I'd suggest paying a mechanic to have the van looked at and let him or her check the manifold studs. Other stuff to look at in that vintage car (any car) would be the A/C, brakes, tranny, etc.
The other specific Quest/Villager problems that I can recall off-hand are the door locks and a rough idle from a dirty throttle body. Good luck!
Steve
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1. Brake squeal - 2 sets of pads and one rotor (driver side) later they still squeak.
2. 105,000 mile timing belt went out at 70,000 miles. I replaced the water pump, serpentines, and an idler while I was at it.
3. Fuel stench and leaking from tank, found out that there was a recall AFTER I paid $80 to get it fixed at dealer. Nissan reimbursed me after I called them and faxed the bill to them.
4. Steering wheel squeals. Still does it, I don't care.
5. Tranny had been slipping into what feels like "neutral" during traffic stop and go. Pops back into gear by itself. Had it flushed at 40k, and again at about 76k after this problem surfaced, seems to be ok now.
6. Wont start sometimes. It cranks and cranks but doesn't fire up. I am still struggling with this one...
7. Check engine light - found fried hose behind the EGR valve where you cannot see and you can barely get your hand into. This is after I replaced all hoses and the light still came on, took me 2-3 months to figger out. Car still ran fine with that crazy light on...