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Chrysler Concorde
Those of you who have joined us from the recently
re-organized 98 Chrysler Concorde, 1999 Chrysler
Concorde LX and LXi and 1997 Chrysler Concorde, any
comments or suggestions? topics, please continue
your discussion here.
Welcome to you who have just joined us. You may
want to follow the above links for prior discussion
relating to this topic.
Thanks,
L8_Apex
Sedans Host
re-organized 98 Chrysler Concorde, 1999 Chrysler
Concorde LX and LXi and 1997 Chrysler Concorde, any
comments or suggestions? topics, please continue
your discussion here.
Welcome to you who have just joined us. You may
want to follow the above links for prior discussion
relating to this topic.
Thanks,
L8_Apex
Sedans Host
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Comments
Thanks.
Great idea to put them in one place!
To the "R/A"...
How can you miss with a car like that! And the best part is the tax break. Ahhh, the best of both worlds.
(both of them)lmao
ROFLMAO, HOHO
Happy safe enjoyable motoring and tinkering. HOHO
One way you may decide not to use a "rebate" is when it is part of a rebate or lower interest on your loan ploy to get you to buy.
Meaning if they offer you a $1000 (any amount) rebate or lower fianancing rates (we'll say .09%). You need to know how long will the lower rate apply. Some are only for a certain time such as 3 years and then the rates jumps to the current level. I decided to use the manufacture's rebate (not a dealer rebate) on the car and financed the car through my credit union. They wanted 9.5 % and my credit union wanted 7%. I saved 2.5% of the bottom line for the duration of the loan. It adds up. I also paid for my warranty after I bought the car. In doing this the Warranty amount was never considered in the cost of the car or the loan. A couple of thousand dollars can might a big deal on the bottom line cost of the vehicle.
Typically a car valued at $25,000 and with only 10% of that put down as a down payment leaves you with $22,500 in payments, plus any other charges such as interest on loans, warranties and anything else that may be figured in on the deal.
A $22,500 payment could easily total out to almost $27000 or more!
You need to research if you can get the interest lower somewhere else for the duration of the loan. If so then commpute the amount you will save going that route. And have the rebate applied to the loan by getting the car that much cheaper.
But understand this, if you forgo the rebate to the value of the car you give up that money and in most cases they will do some number crunching to capture that amount for thier benefit. Please don't assume that you can not get a better deal if you really don't do all your homework. It will take some time from you but you will be rewarded with the knowledge you gain.
Most dealers respect the consumer who does his/her homework. They may not act like it when you get into the "room" to deal. But close the deal and then ask them. You will be surprised. They might even ask you not to tell anyone else what you did and that it was good to deal with someone who was a challenge and prepared to do the right deal (this has happened to me). I guess as you can tell I kept my word to them.
My only thought is that we might face the "opec" of dealership and manufactures in future years. Oh well I'll deal with that when it comes.
No offense was infered to anyone. But give it a shot ... what do you have to lose and what do you have to gain? When the dealership tells you something remmember who is going to get waht maoney from who. And what would you do in his place if you were working there for pay?
my new box o rocks is nicer.
However it has developed a terrible smell after it has been sitting for a while (several hours) and I turnon the air conditioning? Any hints?
Also, I see that there are references to tsb's...are these available on the web?
Oh, btw, I am one of the lucky ones who got the gold emblem on my wheels when I bought it!
Thanks!
However it has developed a terrible smell after it has been sitting for a while (several hours) and I turnon the air conditioning? Any hints?
Also, I see that there are references to tsb's...are these available on the web?
Oh, btw, I am one of the lucky ones who got the gold emblem on my wheels when I bought it!
Thanks!
Forgot to tell you- if you click on the number of your message, you can eliminate the double posting by "deleting"/scribbling one of the two messages.
Hope this helps.
fastdriver
What has worked for me in the past is the following procedure:
Turn the A/C thermostat down as low as it can go. Put the fan on FULL, and the air source on RECIRCULATE. Spray Lysol into the air intakes at the rear of the hood. Use a good amount of Lysol, and let the A/C run for at least five minutes.
The car will smell like Lysol for a day or two, but the mold & mildew (along with the smell) should be gone. Extremely bad cases may require a second treatment.
Hope this helps.
Tom
I have used liquid (4tsp) Lysol in a quart spray bottle. Sprayed into the intake vents while the A/C is running on low, while making sure it goes through all the vent ducts. After that I mix some liquid air freshener (2tsp, from any auto or drug store) in the the spray bottle after I rinsed it out.
Thanks for the suggestion. I never thought of that. I'll try it ASAP.
emale-
I must have missed that one. I check NHTSA all the time so that when something seems strange with my car I know I'm NOT imagining it or nitpicking.
fastdriver
I just checked the 300 area of NHTSA and it's not there. I'll check the other areas.
Thanks.
fastdriver
;-)
Tom
Have you tried the end cap thingie. I have one and still can not get the leverage to turn it. It slips off the end.
Have you tried the end cap thingie. I have one and still can not get the leverage to turn it. It slips off the end.
I have to say that I wasen't at all concerned about Chryslers reliability until after I purchased my Concorde and read some of the previous negative posts in here...I realize that some of the posts may be over exaggererated but also based on nightmare experiences so like i'm sure most other owners in here I took out the best extended warranty availiable.
The way I look at it is whether or not we should have to purchase a warranty or not just the fact of knowing how many problems previous owners have had with their Chryslers we would only have ourself to blame if we found ourself in the same situation of needing expensive repairs and we never protected ourself with the extended warranty
I truely hope my 99 Concorde turns out to be the best car that I have ever owned but if doesn't the cost of the warranty will be well worth it for the peace of mind knowing that for the next 100,000 miles that I will have no repair costs or being without a car if mine is in the shop needing repairs as the warranty provides a rental car at no cost to me.
well thats my opionion and I hope all owners of new Chryslers have a great ownership experience
I gotta agree with that last post of yours. The only problem I have had so far is someone tagged my bumper and left me a small scratch. They must aim for new cars. Kinda like a magnet.
I gotta wonder if some of the minor problems that are reported here could be attributed to lack of understanding how the vehicle operates. I have read so much about the car from the service manual. Real glad I spent the extra bucks for the book. Kinda relaxing to sit back and glance through the book. Some really interesting items in there. Why everyone doesn't get one is kinda puzzeling. Maybe they would find themselves complaining less if they understood how it reallly worked. Kinda makes you think.
I, like you, opted for the best coverage to be on the safe side of things. I cant see spending the money for the different scan tools required to check out and reset the onboard computers. Thats is another reason for the extra coverage.
Later, Rick
Country girl
www.edmunds.com/edweb/dipietro/99Chrysler.Concorde.LXi.rt.html
Tom
Here is the reason. If you pay for an extended warranty at the time you purchase the car and you decide to finance it, the cost goes into your total cost of the car. Meaning you are paying interest charges on the warranty.
There is and I most strongly suggest that you get it, an extended warranty coverage for your Concorde. I started with the "Add-Care" package and later decided to upgrade it to the "Max-Care" package. The difference between the two is way too much to list. Add-Care 800+ items or Max-Care 5000+ items. Go to your dealer (or any Chryler dealer and inquire about it. Pay cash or charge it. You will SAVE BUCKS in the end!! Even at Edmunds.com near the bottom of the page has a link for warranty coverage. I use that to get my dealer to come down on the warranty price. I showed him a print out of the warranty and what it covered and how much it cost. The Max Care plan from the dealers book was listed at $3,560 for a 7 yr 100k mile warranty. I paid $2,100. If something goes south later I know it will cost alot more than $2100 for all of the things that normally go wrong between now and 7 years and 100,000 miles. Heck, even my water pump and alternator and brake calipers are covered. The ABS module cost more than the warranty! Really get the warranty even if you have to take out a loan. You won't be sorry. My brother/law's A/C went out and it will cost him $1500 to fix it (no extended warranty and the van just went out of manufactures warranty).
Now if Chrysler would only mate the Concorde's front end to the LHS's interior . . . .