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Comments
I had a problem like this and it was my spark plug wires. They were interfering with my radio. Once I changed them, the radio worked great.
Do have a question though.....I know they didn't put 4speed auto in these cars until 2002....however, unless these 3speed automatics have an overdrive, our car is shifting like a 4speed automatic.....maybe it's been replaced???
It's not a good idea to post your email address on a public web page. You open yourself up to spam all kinds of other abuse. If you want registered members to be able to see it, just make it public in your profile.
If you want me to delete your message because of that (you can repost without the address, of course), just drop me an email and I'll be happy to take care of it.
Again, thanks for your help.
Thanks.
Real easy to do. I went and bought a single 20 oz. can from WalMart for $20 dollars and it had its own gauge. After you've bought the can of R134A refrigerant turn your car on and your AC on high. There's a black knob on top of what looks like a thin pipe on the left side of your engine facing your car. Unscrew that and insert the gauge. Depending what R134A you've bought you either will have to turn the can upside down and push the button on top or you'll have to puncture the can with the gauge. Empty it's entire contents into the AC and after you've emptied the can, put the black knob back on and then check your vents and feel the COLD difference.
-Rick
I just bought a 2000 Plymouth Neon this past weekend from a wholesale used car dealer. The car did not include an Owner's Manual. Does anyone have a PDF or printable file I might be able to download?
Thanks.
-Rick
I replaced the computer with one with the exact part number purchased from
a salvage company. The engine started and ran for a few minutes and then
completely shut off and would not restart. It appears that the key that I was given by the company was not the correct key and the vehicle has the Sentry security system. I towed the car to the dealer and they are telling me that they will need to
1) Make new a new key for about $100
2) That the computer needs to be replaced for $800
3) That they would need to reprogram the new computer to match the car.
Someone else told me that they only needed to reprogram the security system for the new key and that it should cost about $50
Does this seem right.
ETHIER RE PLACE THEM OR DISCONNECT THEM
LET ME KNOW WHAT HAPPENS
The same thing happened to me. I went to a car stereo place and they sold me the entire wire set that goes to the neon. Color to color, perfect match. I then was able to easily match all the wires and connect the new connectors that came with it to my stock stereo. The cost was very reasonable.
I have a 1996 Dodge Neon Expresso. It has about 86,500 miles. In the past 2-3 weeks it's been doing some weird things. When I start the car, it makes a loud popping noise, like a tire has been popped. Then, when I put it in drive, the car does not move. It makes a loud whining noise. It is fine in reverse though. I turn off the car, wait about 5-10 minutes, start it again and usually it is fine. The first two times it happened after it rained. However, this past third time, it happened while I was driving! The loud popping noise happened and the car skidded and I lost control for a second...it made a whining sound when I tried to press the gas...I turned if off...turned it back on and it was fine again. Oh and no it does not happen every single time, although I guess maybe it started to happen more often after awhile. I've brought it to 3 places now. Two transmission places and one Dodge dealer. I've gotten 3 diff opinions now...one said my entire transmission was probably shot. another said it might be electrical. the dodge dealer wants to replace the exhaust doughnut, timing belt and spark plugs but he can't guarantee this will fix it. No one can diagnose it because of course when they test drive it nothing unusual happens. They say my trans fluid is clean and it's shifting fine. anyways I don't want to spend the money on this car if it might not even fix the problem...has this problem happened to anyone? Sorry so long, thanks for the help!
I don't think I will be of much help but I was wondering how many miles your neon has on it because I have 77,000 on mine and I think mine will need replacing soon also. I was going to do it my self as you are but when I read the service manual it says you have to remove the water pump and power steering pump as well as drain all of the fluid out. I'm considering taking it somewhere but it costs almost $700 but that is replacing both water pump and timing belt.
Do you have the service manual for the car? If not I have one with instructions on how to replace the timing belt. I will email it to you if you need it. Let me now
Anyways, I replace both the upper and lower struts and the vibration is not as bad but it is still there. I can really hear it in reverse so I think there are two other mounts that I probably over looked?
Other than the usual maintence that a car goes through @ 80k it runs great. I just took a 800 mile road trip and it did great.
I just purchased a 97 Neon from a coworker that uses it everyday. The radiator was bad so I took it out last week in order for me to put in a new one this weekend.
I replaced the new radiator and now the car will not start. When you turn the key it cranks and turns the engine perfect, but the weird thing is it feels as if its not getting any fuel. Also, the radio, the headlights, the horn, turn signals do not work. And when you put on your blinkers a buzzing sound comes out. Oh the only thing that lights up in the dash is the oil light. Even when I brake the brake lights do not turn on but the oil light inside the dash does. Did I short circuit the car? Or did I mount the radiator on a wire, I checked but everything seemed to be ok.
My neon lost first and reverse its realy hard to shift it The times I had to drive it all the gear positions felt like 2cnd gear there was no sound (my radios broke so I get to listen to ll the cars lil squeaks and pops)
I smelt something like Burning electronics but closer to Burning rubber
I had just pulled into my home parking lot everything was fine very little shifting from the from of the complex to the spot I made to back into my spot and reverse was gone so I tried pulling up a bit and discovered that first gear was gone
any suggestions would help I've been told that I should pull up the center console and check the shift linkage But I'm having trouble doin that too
The car has 101,000 miles on it, and this is the first time trying to replace the timing belt. I'm looking for things to suggest that he look at or try. Thanks for any input.
Thanks for your help!
1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.
The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.
The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.
The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.
The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.
1. Remove the dash by just pulling it up and back.
2. Remove the instrument cluster by removing the 4 PH screws.
3. Using a 1/8" tip soldering iron, add a light coating of solder to each of the 10 pins in each of the 2 rectangular connectors. They are already tinned so it flows easily.
4. Just put it back together the same way it came out.
The mating contacts for these connectors lose their spring, and this makes the pins slightly thicker for better contact.