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Also there is oil where the spark plugs are? Any suggestions what it might be and how expensive to fix?
driving down the highway with no warning it just cut off and will not crank...i retreived the codes from the check engine light blinkings and the codes were
#11 timing belt skipped one tooth or more from initial learned value.. intermittent loss of either camsheft or crankshaft position sensor.. no crank referance signal detected during engine cranking
and
# 32 EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system failure
then the #55 {end of error}
can any one help me?
I have a Dodge Neon (2000) and just went about replacing the lower control arms. Passenger side went Okay but rear bolt (rusty) very tight. On driver side the nut broke loose inside the frame and I cannot see where to get at it. Pulling up carpet there appears to be a round circle in the plastic panel under carpet approximately where and access might be. Am I on the right track here???http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emo- torcons/emo_confused.gif
http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorcons- /emo_confused.gif
Come on now. suggestions?
:confuse:
1) the A/C only works when I am on the breaks
2) the windshield wiper delay doesnt work
3) the white rear lights that come on when in reverse don't work
4) the 4 disc CD player doesnt get any power to it
5) the rear window defroster doesn't work.
6) Fuse 7 which says EBL, A/C etc keeps blowing when replaced.
All of these problems started after the cables got crossed. Any ideas?
I drive a 2000 plymouth neon LX
I drive a 2000 plymouth neon LX
With a hobby that involves electronics and having installed mobile transceivers in vehicles for the last 20 years, I can tell you that you're not going to like my answer.
You've basically fried everything electrical in the car.
By reversing the cables, you reversed the polarity of every electrical appliance in the car -- and it probably does not matter whether these devices were on or off at the time.
No. 6 of your list would infer that you've checked all your fuses -- but just to be sure, check all of them again! Including the fuses under the hood. You may find that some big ol' main fuse blew to protect all of these things. If it didn't, and the reverse polarity made it to the items you listed, you can pretty much count on them being fried.
I connected a mobile VHF radio backward once, and the immediate flames and acrid smoke were an indication that something was oh-so-very-slightly amiss. It was a total loss as a couple of circuit boards inside had completely melted in the two seconds power was applied.
Bad news -- sorry!
Meade
Crankshaft mounting is dependent on a 'taper' fit, and can be very difficult to remove. Very similiar to a snowmobile primary clutch assembly. The proper tool for the repair is a three jaw puller with special claws to grab onto the pully. Snap-on part number is ya9740a, and some technicians opt not to purchase this expensive tool as its primary use is for chrysler crank pulleys. It comes with two extensions to engage the end of the crankshaft as the hole is countersunk into the shaft. Although they can be difficult to remove, they always come off. Cheating with another type of pully may not exude the nec force to remove the pulley and I have found that lightly tapping the end of the tool will usually 'shock' the taper and cause it to pop off.
BTW, how the heck did somebody rack up 40K miles a YEAR? I thought I was bad at 18K!
Meade
40K miles a year is no problem if you travel a minimum of 400 miles a week and do approximately the same on the weekends just to get to work. I have a 99' and I bought it last July 04 with 45K on it and I am at 88K now.
As it turned out, the throttle position sensor in the throttle body and the Powertrain Control Module were both malfunctioning. Replacement was rather expensive (I think about $800 in parts and labor) but the car has run fine for over a year since the repair.
I have a 99 Neon I bought in 2000, the car was great for a while, have changed the brakes on it twice. I am good about having the oil changed roughly every 6 months or so when recently I started seeing white smoke when I accelerated I got alarmed. I asked a friend of mine (mechanic of course) to look at it, he said that it was the head gasket, so he changed it and sealed it up and put new oil it and said it shouldn't be smoking anymore. But just recently I see the smoke again, and especially more in the heat of TEXAS with the air conditioner on I see it more. I am embarrassed now to drive but I have no other choice. What can I do, on a low budget to fix the car or can some one give me some rough idea of how much it would be fix it.
:confuse:
Thanks
had the oil changed and it drives like new
seems the valves were not getting enough lubrication
Tim
I went and purchased the switch (it was in stock). Replacement is simple enough that even a bumbling amateur can do it BUT... There's a catch. To remove the old switch you need a #10 Torx bit from your screwdriver set, which I assume everyone has, BUT... Some clown engineer decided to make the screw head not an ordinary one but a #10 Torx tamper-resistant screw head. That means you have to find a special set of bits.
I found what I needed on eBay for $5.88 incl. shipping and ordered it. It's on its way. In the meantime my car is still drivable so I can be patient. Good luck to you.
Thanks lilb