Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volvo S70



  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    I have had great lock with my MY 2000 S70. I don't regret getting one.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,638
    I absolutely LOVE my '98 S70 T5. Don't know of a better vehicle (for my needs and taste) that I could have gotten for my money.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • godeacsgodeacs Posts: 481
    CR list the 98/99 S70s as used cars to avoid....
  • ajuliusajulius Posts: 10
    Hello. I am looking into purchasing a 99 Volvo S70 AWD. I was looking online and saw a 99 S70AWD Certified with 56k miles for $19,995. Edmunds has tradein at around 18000. Is the market so soft that I might be able to do somewhat better than tradein price, maybe $17000 or so or would the tradein price of $18000 be about the best I could hope for?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,638
    Trade-in is $18K, I highly doubt you'd get it for even that. Certified adds about $1K to the price and there is no way a dealer is going to pay $18K for a car, clean it, certify it, and have it on their lot just to give it over to someone at a loss.
    Best bet is to go over to the Real World Trade-in board and ask Bill and Terry for their thoughts on the vehicle and what you should be able to get it for.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Hi! I usually hang out in the Audi A6 room but my wife is "thinking" about a trading her Subaru in for a pre-owned Volvo, and I need some serious advice.

    She wants something "boxy" and always points out older 850s when we are driving. She seems less impressed with the more aerodynamic S70s, even though they are safer, imho.

    My question is this: Assuming that she can live with either model, should I go for a '97 850 and save some cash, or buy a '98-'99 S70?

    And if you were timewarped back to the dealer, would you buy the S/V70 model or would you "cheap out" and buy a used 850? (I found a '97 T-5 wagon for $12k and it's sharp!)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,638
    I think maybe my posts thus far have indicated my answer on this. I would buy the exact same S70. The reason I initially picked it is because the specs for my '98 T5 are better than the 850. I was looking for performance, and I found it!

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Hi gooddesign. We have a '97 850 and a '00 S70. We like them both. We got the 850 at the beginning of 1998 with about 12,500 miles on it. It was previously in a rental fleet. It now has 75,000+ miles and runs like a champ. I've experienced few problems with it. It is not a turbo, so it doesn't have the pickup that a T-5 wagon would have. But it's a very solid vehicle. The S70, which I also bought used last May with about 12,200 miles on it (rental fleet car again) now has about 20,000 miles on the odometer. It's a "special edition" GLT with light turbo and about every bell and whistle I could ask for. It's very peppy, fun to drive, and it gets better gas mileage than the 850 -- 30+ mpg highway. I've seen a lot of complaints about the '98-99 S70s, but I haven't experienced much in the way of problems, with the following exceptions, which have all been fixed under warranty:

    -- failing steering column ring antenna (which receives the signal from the encrypted ignition key)
    -- faulty emergency flasher/turn-signal switch
    -- failed SRS (airbag) sensor
    -- failed electric-window switch
    -- loose radio antenna connection

    Coincidentally or not, all these problems have been electronics-related. Mechanically, the car has been great. I hope this helps.
  • Thanks for all the advice. While I'm not necessarily looking for performance, I am looking for reliability.

    Delreybird, your problems seem minor but they are many. My sense is that if I bought a '97 850, these bugs would be worked out already (?)

    I'm still not sold on quality, but my '98 Audi has had just as many problems, so I can't complain too loudly.

    The 850 I was going to look at this weekend was a no-show and we ended up driving a '98 BMW 528i ($22,900 - more than I want to spend) which was very nice, solid, quiet but, of all things, had broken cup holders. Interesting.

    We will continue to shop and I will keep the board posted if any solid (and cheap) Volvos move into the picture.
  • The "check engine" light comes on and indicates that the air pump and check valve need to be replaced. This is a $600 job. Since it effects the emission control only, does it need to be replaced? Apparently, this is a common fault and can be a regular thing. I would not replace it except my milage has gone from 26 mpg to 20 mpg. Can the failed air pump cause this?
  • My 1998 S70 GLT has 86k miles on it and is starting to handle a little "mushy". I plan to replace the shocks. Any recommendations on shocks? I have considered Bilsteins, but do not want to do anything to the car that will make the ride any harsher.
  • Majewicz -- The emission control components effect not only the car's emissions, but the efficiency of the engine. It's probably no coincidence that your mileage has dropped. Ultimately, these kinds of problems can cripple your engine. How many miles do you have on your car? I think that the parts-and-labor warranty on the emission control system is for more than the 50,000 miles/four years (or whatever it is) on the rest of the car. In any case, you shouldn't balk at spending the money to fix this problem.
  • dparesdpares Posts: 29
    I have a 2000 S70 SE...bought the car...has had some problems which i've mentioned before but its a very safe and my wife walked away from being rear ended ($4000 worth of damage to the car) without a scratch..

    Anyway.. my car makes a grinding noise which seems like its coming from the rear. On cold or damp days its louder..on warm days you can barely hear it.. I've had it to the dealer a number of times and surprisingly they can hear it faintly sometimes but can't locate it..

    It comes on at a certain speed (40 mph) but seems to go away at higher speeds (I think the road noise maskes it at that speed). It doesnt change pitch when speed increases and doesn't go away when i'm breaking or cornering..its just always there..its not a turbo and not AWD...

    Does anyone with a similar year/model car have this problem or any suggestions. All help is appreciated!

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,638
    only thing I can think of is the wheel bearings. If it was rear-ended, then maybe they had the rear rotors off and now they need a little repacking with grease. Its cheap, quick, and easy to do, so I think its worth a shot before you delve into the possibility of more major work.

    Good luck. let me know what happens.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • andymsnandymsn Posts: 19
    Purchased a 1998 S70T5 with 33k on it yesterday from a dealer for $15,000. Long story, but the gist of it is that it was a Ford dealer in a smaller town whose "old man" (i.e., the semi-retired owner) just loves Volvos and apparently makes the used manager buy a few every year. There isn't much of a market for Volvos in this particular town. Nothing wrong with the car, other than a few minor scratches. What a STEAL!! It's manual and certainly a change for me after driving a 1992 Bonneville for over 155k since 1996. Looking forward to having the S70 for quite a while, too.

    Anyway, part of the reason I got such a good deal is that it needs new tires within probably 5k. Michelin XGT H4s are the OEM tire? Has anyone run Michelin Energys, or another Michelin on theirs? I will use the car mostly for interstate or major state highway driving, with a bit of fun stuff thrown in, too. Probably 70% interstate/state highway, 10% secondary roads and 20% city driving.

    Additionally, I'm an avowed Michelin Artic Alpin fan and a set of those will be purchased for winter, so I guess I'm not looking for all-season tires but rather good spring/summer/fall tires. Quieter is good, too, but that may be a trade-off with wet road grip?

    Thank you in advance for taking time to give me your thoughts.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,638
    33K miles for $15K. You did great! Congrats!

    I'm not sure on my tires. They are probably still the original set. I'll take a look after work and let you know what I have. Whatever they are, I like them quite a bit. Good grip in all conditions. I bought the car with 30K miles, I'm up to 50K (already!) and still don't need to replace them, so they seem to wear well.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • andymsnandymsn Posts: 19
    Has anyone run Nokia NRH2s on their S70 (T5 or other)? If so, any impressions? I saw another poster on commenting on his experiences (using 205/60 rather than 55/16s), seemed to like them very well and I'm curious to hear whether others have tried them, too.

  • Thought I'd buck the usual trend and post our positive experience with our 1999 S70 base sedan.

    We ordered ours from the factory in spring of 1999. It's a non-turbo, manual transmission model...the only option we ordered was the sunroof. Pewter Silver Metallic, tan (taupe?) vinyl/cloth interior.

    We're up to about 55,000 miles now, and this is by far the best car we've ever owned. We have experienced absolutely no major problems to date. The minor problems we've had: Passenger window switch came loose, and was replaced under warrantee. Front blinker buckets replaced under TSB/Recall (not sure which) and headlight bulbs replaced maybe twice.

    We replaced the Michelin MXV4's at about 37,000 miles...they still had some tread left, but one took a nail so we replaced all 4 with a set of Continental CH95 all-seasons -- the Continentals handle way better in the dry, and are good in the rain and snow we get up here in northern Mich.

    We just had the brakes replaced -- at the 50,000 mile service, the dealership said they were down to the wear limit. They should last longer now that we're not in Indiana, where everyone forced us to use our brakes to avoid hitting them.

    We have noticed no rattles. No squeaks, no detaching interior panels, no electronics going haywire. Nothing. The car is as solid as the day we bought it. When a hailstorm/tornado broke a headlight, I found that the car is amazingly easy to work on, as well. (Compared to the GM's I'm used to)

    When dirty, the color hides the dirt. When clean, the car *gleams*. The interior fabric is durable with a capital D -- similar to the tough fabric on airline seats. The seats are immensely comfortable, and make 10 hour driving stints downright easy.

    With the back and front seats folded down, I've carried an 8' stepladder home from the hardware store with all doors and trunk closed, and a 12' roll of carpet with the last bit hanging out of the trunk. The square design allows the trunk to be totally usable, and allows major passenger room -- adult passengers can ride in the backseat behind me, comfortably.

    I would unhesitatingly recommend an S70 to anyone looking for a car, based on our experience.
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    My dad just purchased a 99 S70 GLT and upon start-up we've noticed some kind of a rattling noise coming from underneath the driver's side towards the rear of the car. It usually disappears after the car warms up. My dad thinks it might be the catalyctic converter. Aside from that, there have been no known problems whatsoever. I too was impressed with the handling, comfort and horsepower it offered seeing how it's a 1999 with 37k miles.
  • dparesdpares Posts: 29
    bringing the car in next week and i'll ask about the wheel bearings..thanks for the idea..will post what I find out
  • My 98 S70 seems to have an electrical drain somewhere such that the battery has become completely dead after the car sat idle in the garage for about 10 days. The battery is only 6 months old and was fully charged (this was the second time it happened so I charged the battery fully about 2 weeks before this episode).
    I am bringing it in to my local shop Wednesday but was wondering if anyone had any experience with this type of problem so I can hopefully point them in the right direction.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,711
    I test-drove a base '98 S70 today at my local Volvo dealership. Boy is that thing fun to drive! Being a 5-speed, it had unbelievable power and smoothness I haven't seen in a modern car in a long long time. It felt like it could accelerate forever. This S70 even felt faster than my own '93 850, and that's an automatic.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,638
    Actually, just had this same problem with my Alfa (2nd car). The battery was new back in September and now its dead. Jumped it and ran it for a while, but it wouldn't charge up fully (just had slight juice left). So I replaced the battery and now everything is fine. Moral of the story: just cause its fairly new doesn't mean its not the culprit.

    The shop will be able to tell you if the battery is taking a charge or not.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • lurkinglurking Posts: 1
    Well, I've read three questions recently. I have experience with all three. FYI, I have a 1998 S70 T-5 automatic. It is fast. Here are my top recommendations:

    BILSTEINS! all the way, go with the touring version if you want a comfortable ride. The Bilstein HD is a more sporting shock and is suitible if you get lowering springs. If you want a better ride, I'd replace your springs when you replace your shocks. It makes a big difference.

    I also run "summer" tires for 3 out of 4 seasons. I've been running Bridgestone S03's for the last month. They are awesome! Great grip and good ride; very quiet too. Do not use these tires when there is any chance of snow or ice!

    Quality, quality here folks. Do not skimp and get a generic. Look! especially at CCA (cold cranking amps). For an S70 it should have at least 600CCA, preferable 650. I recently got an Interstate Battery. It works great. You can actually notice less stress on the car when starting on a cold morning!

    Good luck with your maintanence issues, and have fun driving or "motoring" your Volvos!
  • Just talked to the shop. They said the glove compartment does not close properly and the light inside was staying on causing the drain.
    Hope they are right.
  • bucky11bucky11 Posts: 5
    I'm considering buying a 1998 S70 T5 with 125,000 miles. The dealer is asking $12,900, and is including a limited 2 year/24,000 mile warranty that excludes brakes and the electrical system. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with a high mileage S70 T5, and can provide some guidance on whether this deal looks attractive? The appearance of the car is good, and it accelerates, brakes and handles well.
  • tiger8tiger8 Posts: 120
    '98 was the first year Volvo switched to the S70. Although it's similar to the 850, the repair record of the '98s is poor. See Consumer Reports reliability charts on this. They specifically advise avoiding the '98 S70s. My son had one coming off lease and offered to buy it and sell it to me; I'm glad I decided against it. Electrical problems galore. We finally bought a 2000 S70 GLT. It's certainly better than the '98s, but it's a far cry from the reliability of Japanese cars. Check out the ride of the T-5s carefully; they are very harsh. It's true Volvos supposedly last forever, but I believe you pay a big price in repairs for that immortality.
  • godeacsgodeacs Posts: 481
    you beat me to the punch! Agree with all your comments. Sad to say, Volvo reliability is not the same as it used to be.
  • bucky11bucky11 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the feedback. I was hoping that a high mileage S70 might actually be a safer bet since all of the recall work and TSB's should have been done already. I'm interested in the car primarily for the safety features, but it sounds like I would need to budget $1000+/year for repairs to keep it running.
  • joel2468joel2468 Posts: 75
    I owned a 1999 Volvo S70 base model. This was touted to be more reliable than the turbos. Not so. The ride was rough, tore through light bulbs, squeaked and rattled, rode like a truck, and left me stranded three times. Each time, the dealer, though they tried, could not identify a problem. No, I didn't hate the Volvo, I just think a $30K car should not have the problems it did. I replaced it with a 2001 Toyota Avalon, and haven't had a problem, or complaint, since. The Toyota isn't perfect, but is lightyears ahead of any S70. At the very least, I haven't wondered at all whether or not it would start. Also, 125K miles seems a little high to me, as is the 12,900 price. Yes, the Volvo is safe, but as tiger8 says, they are "durable" (because you constatntly replace parts), but they have not been reliable. It looks, though, like the S60 might get Volvo back on the reliability track, and recent reports of the 2002 S80 seem OK. Anything from 1998 to 2001 is suspect.
Sign In or Register to comment.