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Dodge Intrepid



  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The Town Hall is about to take on a new look in an effort to make content more easily searchable and accessible.

    Have you seen the Letter from the Town Hall Manager on the Town Hall Welcome page? If not, you might want to follow that link to have a look.

    And hang on to your seats. Change is never easy - for any of us - but resolving the Search problems we've had will be worth the pain.

    Sedans Host
  • binubinu Posts: 81
    Have any of you had brake pads/rotor wear and tear issues ?
    At 57,000 miles on my Concorde I have changed my rotors twice and brake pads thrice. The dealer says that it is normal maintenance.
    BTW, I do not have a lead foot.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,047
    ...I'd say something isn't quite right there. I got 39,000 miles out of the first set of pads on my '00 Intrepid. It's pushing the 65,000 mile mark now, and I'm planning on pulling a front wheel off next oil change (at 65K) to see how they're wearing. I'm still on my original rotors though.

    My rear brake pads made it to 51,000 miles. Only thing I can think of in your case, is maybe if you're having the dealer or someplace else rotate the tires, they're over-torquing the lug nuts? I know it's real easy to warp them that way. I rotate my own tires and always hand-tighten the lug nuts.

    Oh yeah, I should add that I used to deliver pizzas with this car, so by all rights, I should've gone through brakes much faster than you! Unless you're moonlighting as a cabbie or delivery driver or something!
  • samalsamal Posts: 2
    You mention that you hand tighten the lug nuts. Any idea on the correct torque for them? Thanks!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,047
    ...well, I probably should get myself a torque wrench so that I'm doing it right, but I always just took an estimated guess! I'd tighten them to the point that I'd have to start putting a little muscle into it, and then stop. I know that "a little bit of muscle" is hardly a quantifable'd mean something totally different to Ah-nold Schwarzenegger and PeeWee Herman ;-)

    Sorry I can't be more precise. I haven't lost a tire (or even a lug nut) yet, or warped a rotor, so I must be guessing pretty close!

    Something else that might mess up the rotors too, is the order you put the lug nuts on. I was always taught to put one nut on, and then put the nut on that would be the furthest away. With a 5-bolt pattern, you'd actually have a choice of two lugs. Then go to the next lug that's furthest away. Basically, just like drawing a 5-pointed star. This way, you don't put too much stress on one side of the rotor all at once.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    Well, I guess you guys may be right. The wife (her car - 2002 Intrpepid w/2.7L engine) said the car shakes more and now makes a thumping sound at an idle in park or when stopped. I popped the hood and the engine was shaking back and forth (laterally) pretty good. Going in next week to have engine mounts looked at. It runs fine, so maybe that is it.

    How major of a repair is it if the engine mounts are bad?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,047
    ...took me about maybe an hour, cost about $15.00 (IIRC). 'Course that was a '68 Dart, your mileage may vary ;-)

    Seriously though, I don't think it should be too big of a deal. They just lift the engine up a little bit, there's one bolt that goes from the mount to the engine, and one bolt that goes from the mount to the sub-frame (well, on a Dart, at least!)
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380

    try using a different brand of gasoline. i've noticed that most of my vehicles have idled rougher on ethanol blended fuels...for whatever reason.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Morning folks. Gentleman--at my last inspection I was told that I'd need to change my front pads in a few months. I'm at 33K right now--any thoughts on better pads that won't "break the brake bank".. Don't ask for good humor before the second cup...
  • binubinu Posts: 81
    I had the front pads and rotors changed. Cost me close to $400.
    I went with OEM Parts this time.
    I do not know if Bendix Pads and Rotors are any better but It might be worth a try next time, if I have to replace in another 20,000 miles.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,047
    ...I kind of cheaped-out and bought my pads at Trak Auto. I bought all of 'em at the same time, front-and-rear, and I think it only ran about $35.00. I can't even remember what brand they were. Anyway, I bought them when the car had about 25,000 miles on it. Traditionally, I was used to going through brakes about every 10-20,000 miles, depending on the car (those big V-8's could eat up drum brakes pretty quickly)

    Well, when I checked the brakes, they still had plenty of meat on 'em, so I waited until they got a little low. Ended up swapping out the front ones at 39,000. I just did it myself. The back ones finally needed it around 51,000 and I just had my mechanic put on the brakes I had already bought.

    It just blows me away how quick rotors go nowadays though! We recently had new rotors put on my grandmother's '85 Buick LeSabre, but it has about 156,000 miles on it, so I guess that's no big shock. Only Chrysler product I ever put rotors on was a '79 Newport. It had about 230,000 miles on it (I don't know if they were original rotors or not, though).

    One thing I've heard is that if you have the rotors cross-drilled, they'll dissipate heat better and last longer. Don't know if it's true or not, and I've never had it done.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Thanks.. I was thinking about using a local "auto store" that has done oil changes in the past. They always have a pyramid arrangement (good (OEM), better, best)with regard to their services and I suspect they do the same with breaks. I'll probably get front pads and an alignment.
  • binubinu Posts: 81
    My 5* invoice lists that the rotors and brakes cost around $175. The rest is labor.
    So if you are going to pay so much for labor then better get the best available pads and rotors.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    Well, the Intrepid (2002 SE w/2.7L engine, <6000 miles) finally goes in for service tomorrow. The engine continues to thump and shake, with the check engine light on continuously for the past 2 days of driving. I'll let you all know what happens.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    Well, the Intrepid has been out of service for 2 days now. Spoke to the dealer yesterday, and he said the thing has a bad "cylinder coil". It was described to me as the thing which makes the spark plug spark, therefore I'm assuming I was running on only 5 cylinders, therefore the rough running. The writer then added that he hoped it was not the "controller" for the coils, as they are on backorder (I guess there is a little bit of a problem with these things!), but that the tests they ran showed that it was just the coil.

    Low and behold, I called today, the new coil was in, but the thing still running rough. Therefore a new "controller" is on order, and will be in next week. I'll keep you all informed.

    PS...And to think I dumped my Malibu because it had engine problems!
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    wow, a misfiring cylinder and the on board diagnostics didn't click on the "check engine" light! that's really odd...
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    Actually it ran rough for about 2 weeks prior to the check engine light coming on Tuesday morning this week. Had to drive it like that x2 days.

    Picked it up today, because I needed something to drive this weekend. Runs a little better than before, but not perfect, I guess that is where the control module comes in...they called it a "PCM"
  • rdg1rdg1 Posts: 10
    Our new '02 Intrepid has 4500 miles on it. I noticed today, that the front tires look like they are half worn. They are worn evenly across the tread does not appear to be alignment related. Rear tires look like new. I had planned to rotate at 6000 miles. Anyone else experiencing this? Seems to be pretty premature!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    Sorry to hear about your problem. The 02 model LH cars are using a new style computer system . They combined the transmission controller and engine controller into one unit this year. They had a few problems with this and it looks like you are experiencing one of the bad ones . The unit is called an NGC and this is what they will be changing in your car. Once this unit is changed to an newer version you should have no future problems, and don't worry this is not an engine problem its a electronic problem.

    c01 -njdevilsrn did not say the dealer could not find the problem .What the dealer said is , it needs a new computer and they are on backorder .The dealer knows what's wrong and will change the part when it comes in.
  • xtecxtec Posts: 354
    I just picked up 02 intrepid sxt with the R't
    engine,wheels and spoiler.What a car.Ihope these
    are good cars.Ive read your message board before i
    got the car and most problems seem minor.This is
    the first V6 that feels like a V8.I cant wait to
    drive it more,its a nice car to drive.I hope im
    this happy a year from now.Talk to you people
    some time soon.
  • kpfankpfan Posts: 1
    I had the same problem, 2002 Intrepid R/T. It looked like it might be alignment, but after research, its the tire pressure. I'm not sure if its just the 17" tires, but the factory settings are WAY TOO LOW! I've got my fronts at 40psi and rears at 36psi. The 17" tires can take up to 44psi, so I'm not concerned at all. The ride is a little rough on bad roads, but its great everywhere else. Firm ride, great grip, love the car.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    The factory that builds the computer runs only so many products per day at max output. So to build units for production(new cars) and service(dealer) ,they cant keep up. So sometimes the dealer must wait for parts.
    As for transportation , that is something between the dealer and customer. When you buy a fridge or stove or any other product for that matter and a part breaks and you have to wait for it to be fixed , does GE or Maytag bring you a appliance
    to use while yours is being repaired.I think not.
    One more thing its OTTOWRKR not OttAwrkr !!
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    interesting post, ottowrkr! keep us informed on the new LX cars...have you heard or seen anything new lately??
  • costenjcostenj Posts: 14
    Hey all,

    Here's a slight diversion from the posted topic but a fun story to relate nonetheless. I just purchased a pre-owned '99 Intrepid 2.7, loaded. After adding a K&N air filter (I notice a difference) I was driving home from my girlfriend's when I saw a very old looking muscle car in front of me at a red light. No idea what it was but it looked like it was from the early seventies or very late sixties. Anyway, it had the big decal numbers '442' on the right back trunk lid. (Maybe an old Olds' -- I don't know) Dual exhaust and sounded mean as hell too! The young guy driver had his blonde girlfriend (by my guess) next to him. I decided to pull up next to him at the next red light and maybe try to outpace him at the next green...
    Without looking at them and just staring straight ahead, I hit the gas at the green signal. He accelerated fast and hard, and loud too, and I didn't think I'd pull ahead. Then my speedo shot up to 85+ km/h (in a 60 km/h zone - Canada) and I pulled way ahead just as the lane converged into one! Then of course I braked and just proceeded slowly onwards. Yes it was fun! I'm not into racing and will not anymore as I like to take care of my vehicles but that was MY day. (Or so I like to think!) :) I'm sure he and his girlfriend will remember being beaten by a 'boat' of an Intrepid! :)

    Still have no idea what that old car was though, but after having looked it up on the Net, the 442 most likely did not mean the CID, but the configuration like 4 barrel, 2 exhaust etc. Regardless, I bet that guy was surprised! I know I was!
    Costen M.
    Oakville, Ontario
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,047
    Depending on the year, it meant many different things. When it first came out, it was 4 speeds, 4-bbl, dual exhaust. Later on it meant 400 CID, 4-bbl, dual exhaust. By the late '80's it meant 4-cylinder, 4 valves per cylinder, and dual exhaust-tips!

    If that 4-4-2 was a late '60's, on up to maybe a '72, and running correctly, there's no way in hell a base Intrepid would beat it, unless the guy just stomped the pedal and just wasted a lot of time burning rubber, or just wasn't trying (or just didn't know how to drive ;-). My '00 Intrepid wouldn't even beat my '89 Gran Fury from 0-60, which only has a 175 hp 318-4bbl! It'll pull away at higher speeds, but not in a stoplight race.

    I think the 4-4-2 was just a graphics package by '73, so I'm sure one of those would be easy to dust, unless it had a 455 in it, and by the late '70's, they were down to about 160-170 hp.
  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    When my 300M was under warranty, I was provided a rental allowance from DC which covered most of the cost of a rental. I agree that it should have covered the entire cost when the work is waranty work, and provide it until the part is in and working if the problem keeps the car from being useable.

    Of course, to attain such perfect customer satisfaction levels would require everything to cost just a little bit more. It's like when the government fines a company for something; the company just raises its prices a little bit to compensate. The company rarely suffers as a result, and the people, or the customers, always end up paying in the end. Nothing is free.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Posts: 185
    Last week when my car was in for service, I did not ask for a loaner. It was in for a day and a half. I was off from work the first day, and the farthest from home I had to go was 0.8 miles. I rode my bike.

    The day I went and picked it up, I walked to get it, as the dealer is about the same distance from my home.

    When I asked for a loaner for my appointment this Thursday, the service manager said he would put me on the list, but said he could re-schedule my appointment for when they had a loaner as one of the loaners was stolen, and another was smacked up by a customer, leaving them with only 2 cars.

    When he asked what kind of job I'm having done, he assured me the job is about 1 hour to do, and that he would have a tech do it the first job the day I come, and I can just wait.

    PS...The part I need is in, I go Thursday, will let you know how it comes out.
  • alpx29alpx29 Posts: 2
    FOLLOW-UP ON the problems with the brakes
    on Dodge Intrepid ES 97 (alpx29 from .Town Hall). SEE MY MESSAGE 1226.

    I have gone through tremendous service problems with this car only in relation to the brakes, and the problem is still not fixed.

    I am on the brink of nervous breakdown and almost
    ready to go to court or/and call Consumer Affairs.

    I went to three shops recently, two of them Dodge
    dealers, and they could not fix my car, although I
    paid so far ~ $4,000.

    The First said : brake fluid contaminated, and master cylinder leaking, plus front rotors blue from overheating; so they recommended change master cyl, resurface disks, new pads, new br fluid .

    After taking back the car from them the car was in
    incredible bad shape: slow to accelerate, lost power, huge gas mileage, very poor braking ; the brake pedal was very hard to push down and very unresponsive. In order to upshift at normal low speeds the engine had to rev-up to 2,500- 3,000 rev/min just to overcome the friction or the opposing forces. The front wheels got
    very very hot and soon the new semimetallic pads were smoking.

    This was the service from a Dodge 5 star dealer in New Jersey! Cost $725.

    The next day I took the car to a STS car service near my home.The Dodge dealer was closed on Saturdays.

    They found that the front calipers were stuck, with their sliders not working. They also recommended to replace the front rotors by being to thin. (* previoulsy just resurfaced at the first dealer). The new pads installed a day before were aready cracked. They replaced front calipers, rotors and pads. Cost $436.

    At this point it is incredible that the 5 star Dodge dealer did not check or observe the worn and stuck calipers.

    But the car was still with the brakes applying,
    overheating the front wheels really hard. (*even
    after this service at STS).

    Monday I went to another Dodge dealer in Metuchen, NJ.

    After looking at the car they said that:

    - the whole system was contaminated by a contaminated brake fluid (they suggested at Lube express facility where I had an oil change three days prior to these problems)

    - they said they found swollen hoses, and that the ABS pump and the main hydraulic control unit has to be replaced; basically with all the prior replacements and repairs now they were actually suggesting to continue to put a new brake system on: new ABS puMp, new hydraulic control unit, new hoses, and new rear calipers (although the problem was with the front wheels).

    Cost 2,865 (parts: $1,600 and they claimed 13.5 hrs of labor).

    - I made a case against Lube express and tried to recover damage from my insurance company; the
    insurance covered almost everything for this latter work except the full rate of labor. (paid from my pocket $800).

    Finally, yesterday I went to pick-up my repaired car with the new brake system installed.

    Unbelievably, the car has the same problem: brake
    drag, applying brakes all the time, overheating
    wheels, poor acceleration (since it it obviously
    running against opposing friction forces, the engine makes extra effort to push the car).

    Moreover, it seeemed that the brakes were not again working properly, 2-3 inches down of pushing the brake pedal: no response from the brakes! only if pushed to the floor really hard then the car was eventually stoppping at a much longer braking distance.

    Now, they say it might be from some air trapped in the system... and they took the car to re-bleed the brakes.

    But I think they actually did not diagnose nor correct the initial problem which is still there.

    What do you think and what should I do?
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    I would have taken it right back to the first dealer and requested a car to drive while they straighten out the mess they created. I always give a mechanic a 2nd chance on a repair before looking elsewhere. I realize it was a Saturday, but letting more than one person get involved will cause them to start blaming each other. I would have tried renting a car from somewhere and getting the dealer to reimburse you if transportation was not available.

    That being said, I only go to dealers for warranty work, or things that are unusual that my "corner garage" cannot handle. They are under too much pressure to turn the cars around as quickly as possible.

    With three garages and one lube plae involved, look for a lot of finger pointing at each other.
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