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Comments
To date, I have had three oil changes and my tires rotated twice since I've taken delivery of the car. To reduce the cost of ownership, I will simply continue to service my millenia for an oil change every 5k and rotate my tires every 7k to 10k, and sell the car at 60k. It really breaks my heart to shell out $200 to $400 dollars to simply have the Mazda service technicians LOOK at my millenia for each of the preceeding 60k service intervals; when it should customarily be trouble free until 60k!? Even I am qualified to perform visual assessments myself, even though I am a layman when it comes to automotive repair/servicing.
Subsequently the explanation for my unorthodox maintenance care methodology is because I prefer learning from the wise(you all)than from experience whenever the situation to conducive/cost-effective in doing so.
so far as noted in previous posts really normal wear/tear costs. just had upper/lower radiator hoses and flush/fill $200. valve cover gaskets $500 and wheel bearings both front total $500. the wheel bearings did nerve me a bit - that should not have to be replaced yet. i think mazda/ford mill/626 have rpoblems with wheel hub rusting on as well.
belt and the other two belts. California and Massachesetts cars must warrenty the belts for 105,000 miles, Same belts as on your Millenia S
Mine have been on for 117,000 miles. Will replace them myself ASAP.
Ken
luv94rx7@aol.com
Grant
From what you listed, it looks like you have two bad O2 sensors that have gone south:
P0170 (Fuel trim malfuction Bank 1)=O2 sensor
P0173 (Fuel trim malfunction Bank 2)=O2 sensor
Although one may be affectintg the other - this is why you need professional advice here.
There are actually 4 O2 sensors in your S and they run about $140 each.
Please call a Mazda dealer and get in touch with the service dept for clarification.
cheers
sends a signal to the ABV solenoid valve (vacuum) to open and send vacuum to the ABV diaphram. This will open the ABV which will then dump excess
manifold boost to intake side of the Lysholm compressor.
THANKS
may not solve the problem. Code reading without freeze frames and a curious tech are only a place to start. P0170 and 0173 might indicate that both banks have a common problem. These two codes
can vary from a vucuum leak to a clogged fuel filter. In the Mazda Manual there are 23 items listed under these codes. And secound do not pay Mazda's outrageous prices for O2 sensors, Bosch works just as well for about $68.
What do you think
I'm willing to bet the ranch your dealer did not
change the steering column. That almost certainly would not fix the problem. From what you described it is an intermittant occurance and sounds like a bad wiring connection. 2nd choice
would be a bad Auto Tilt relay. 3rd would be the micro switch on the ignition key cylinder and 4th is the CPU. The easiest to test is the micro switch. This switch tells the CPU whether the ignition key is in or out, to test insert the key (all the way in) and try to lock the doors with the remote, if the switch is working the CPU will not let the remote lock the doors.
cheers
1. 2000 Mazda Millenia base model with Premium package, two-tone white, Bose audio system: $22664.
2. 2000 Mazda Millennium: $25000. even
Good luck.
Ken
Read the SAE Technical paper #940198, Development of the Miller Cycle Gasoline Engine, written by the Japanese engineers that developed the S engine. 14 psi was measured with a boost guage while car was being tested on a chassis dyno.
I'd like to know where you can pick up Bosch O2 sensors for $68 a piece when the cheapest I have found was $110 on up for the Bosch ones.
-Maz_nut
Besides the check engine light, I've also notice my fuel economy is kindda LOW. I'm getting about 17, 18 MPG on a 30% highway and 70% city driving, and about 20 MPG for 75% highway and 25% city. Isn't that a little bit too low? My car only has 74K miles now. Could this poor fuel economy has something to do with the code P0170 and P0173. Could it be my O2 sensor(s) is bad and it's causing the air/fuel management system to function inefficiently? Maybe you can offer your opinions! Thanks
PS. My check engine light is not ON now cause I reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. It hasn't come ON for about 2 weeks now. Hopefully it'll stay that way
http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~avsmith/o2sensor.html
While I'm an edmunds regular and a 95 Millenia S owner, I'm new to this forum. I spend most of my time on the boards of the next car I want (Volvo S60 T5 or S60R if it comes out), not the car I own. Overall I've been very happy with the car. For the price I paid and what I got I'm thrilled.
FYI, I've got about 128K miles on my car. Bought it used in March 98 w/ 71K miles. I've read some of the posts, and at least now I know I'm not alone w/ a number of the issues. I'll rattle off my car's few quirks:
1.) Check Engine Light - the darn thing comes on for a week, off for a few days, then back on. I ignore it (not good?).
2.) Antenna - Sticks - doesn't go down. I've tried Silicone spray, but it hasn't worked.
3.) Axles - I get that clicking sound when I turn. Guess the boot ripped and it's going to need to be replaced..about $450 for both.
That's really about it. The only serious issue I had was back at about 120K miles. One of the gaskets on the engine had cracked and it was leaking a bit of oil. Between that, the tune up, water pump and spark plugs (heck, I figured do it while that expensive beast of an engine is open) it put me back a bit. Nonetheless, the people I took it to here in Irvine, CA (formerly Chuck's Mazda, now Autowise) do a great job and are very fair w/ their pricing.
I know some of these things have been covered in posts (I've read some of them), but if anybody would like to throw anything my way in terms of thoughts, recommendations I'm all ears.
Lastly, do any of you have recommendations on performance upgrades (chips, etc).
Thanks and have a great weekend,
Derek
Anyone out there up to speed on the current market?
1) The engine does not heat up. While idling, the engine heats up every so slightly. Then, while driving, the temp drops all the way down to the minimum. No heat! I have bought a new thermostat and will shortly be replacing it. Does anybody no something I don't about this? It is a Texas car and they don't have much need for heat down there. May have been somebody just taking out the thermostat.
2) The rear disc brakes have major fluttering. I can hear them rubbing very loudly. I intend on replacing the rotors and pads. I'm curious. Has anybody out there had issues with rear brakes? Problems with say calipers, parking brake linkages, proportioning valves? Could this be just a brake rotor issue?
3) The engine has the worst idle that I've ever seen. It is rough while in park or neutral but terrible while in drive. I've adjust the idle up slightly to prevent the car from almost stalling. Does anybody have any insight on this? The engine runs fine through normal driving. Just sucks when I idle.
5) Hesitation when I accelerate. Slight hesitation on accelerating. I'm sure it has something to do with rough idle.
4) The transmission seems clunky. Especially from 1st to 2nd. Occasionally on other transitions. Doesn't happen all the time, just occasionally. Should I be concerned? I've read that Mazda states it is normal?
I think that the engine was replaced. There is white lettering rubbed off the intake manifold, reminiscent of junk yard/salvage parts. If the engine was rebuilt, maybe it is a good thing. I've read about alot of 2.5s blowing up. Is there any way I can tell?
I'm really having second thoughts about this car. The thought of a blown engine or transmission scares me. Any lemon laws in Texas. Please help!!!!
The GF4A-EL tranny is a bit clunky; it's always been that way, and it's more so when it's cold - or when it's told that it's cold.
I don't know if the Millenia had the same rear discs as the six-cylinder 626 in this year, but there was some issue with 626 calipers sticking, so it's possible that you could be getting some of that.
2.5s are pretty sturdy, generally; they'd have to be seriously maligned to go into full-explosion mode.
I cannot believe how poorly this engine is laid out - you have to remove the MANIFOLD to replace one of the valve cover gaskets?!?!? This job would have cost me about $600 is labor to do - thank god for close friends.
Anyway, it does certainly sound like you have a bad O2 sensor(s) somewhere - bad gas mileage, poor acceleration (well, not on the S ;-) ) and bad emissions are all signs.
Like you, I reset my check engine light with a nift little computer my mechanic had and had not come back on since, until tonight (DAMN!) - I am so sick of the check engine light. I need to get it rescanned and again, my codes were P0400 and P1173.
I'll also be looking at replacing the other O2 sensors as well and let you know what happens.
1) The engine does not heat up.
Yes, replace that thermostat and also have that temp gauge checked - sounds very weird. Check your antifreeze mixture - super easy to do.
2) The rear disc brakes have major fluttering.
Well, without being there to hear them, I'd say that yes, you have some bad rotors only if you apply the brakes. They also can be front ones. Do you have any records on the car - like who did the brake job last? Look at the pads and see how low they are.
3) The engine has the worst idle that I've ever seen.
First thing to do is replace those plugs and wires ASAP. This may be the cause since this V6 likes fresh plugs and wires.
5) Hesitation when I accelerate.
Again, check the plugs and wires. The wire set is not cheap - beware. Also, this could be the results of a bad O2 sensor - is your check engine light on?
4) The transmission seems clunky.
Well, sad to say that this is not good and the 95L's are prone to tranny failure if not taken care of properly. Have the diff and tranny fluid replaced asap and let the mechanics tell you how the old fluid looked to give you an idea. The syncros may be the cause as well.
I think that the engine was replaced. There is white lettering rubbed off the intake manifold, ...I've read about alot of 2.5s blowing up. Is there any way I can tell?
Yes, check the VIN# on that engine and see if it matches up with the VIN you have on paper. The intake could have been a replacement intake. 2.5's do not just blow up - they do when people neglect to change the oil or have the 60K done when needed.
We had out 60K done at 87K. We also just replaced the valve cover gaskets that were leaking all over the garage - check for this.
You can easily have a compression check done of your 2.5 to give you an idea of how that engine is doing. This will tell you if it is on the way out or still solid.
herndons - I do not want to scare you, but this year is terrible (in my opion) for the Millenia. I have had so many problems with my 95L that I begin to wonder what Mazda was thinking when they developed this FWD V6 setup. I have replaced so much in this car that it makes my old VW look like a BMW. I am a car freak and take car of all my Mazdas well - the repair cost on this car after 75K is beyond what I would ever expect - especially off a Japanese car.
Right now, I still need to replace our headliner and 3 more freaking O2 sensors. God forbid if our tranny ever goes out. One we get her all fixed up, we will be selling her for good.
I think it is safe to say that you should have had this one checked out before you bought it. Make friends with a local Mazda mechanic and take him/her out to lucnh and ask them these questions for a better idea - they can tell you everything.
Hope this helps and look at the archives here as well.
-Peter
Thanks for the reply. Digging through all of the posts in the town hall on Millenias, it seems that not all Millenias are bad. Just most. I too am a car nut myself and do all of my own work. Here are some replies to your replies
1) I have a thermostat and will soon install it. Will flush the system and replace with correct mixture. It makes me wonder though? I remember working in auto parts years ago and people with cooling problems often left the thermostat out. Why would they do that? I hope it is because the need for heat in Texas is next to none. (I used to live there) We'll see, It's and easy fix.
2) The rear brakes are definitely the culprit. I will replace the rear discs and pads. I was curious as to if there were any chronic problems with rear calipers on these cars. In my experience, with rear disc brake cars with solid rotors, any issues with the calipers will surely cause failure. I'll check into prices.
3 and 5) It looks like the dealership that I bought this vehicle completely tuned up the vehicle. Cap, rotor and wires are completely new. (The wires are NGK, I can't imagine how much they cost). It doesn't seem to be a tune-up issue, possibly timing issue. I'm not sure. I'll be on the phone with the dealership today to work out getting this checked out.
4) I'll make sure to have the fluid and filter serviced ASAP. Bad synchros? Man, I'll blow this car up. windowphoebe6....You said that most GF4A-EL trannys are clunky. How is the reliability on these things? The car has 87,000 miles on it.
I haven't really searched on the engine for the VIN. Where is it? Some can be in very inconspicuous places.
As far as getting it checked, I know. I went out on a limb to get the car I wanted and trusted the dealership. They have a very very good reputation. Hopefully I can work out something to get this car looked at. Hell, I may be selling it before I even get it registered. Are there any positive testimonies out there?
I don't understand why the millenia's drive train is so crappy. The Millenia was out in Japan I believe in 93 so it is not a brand new car. Isn't the drive train in this car the same as all 2.5L v-6 automatics? i.e. 626? What the hell? Why is this one so bad.
Do you have a good source for Mazda parts? I do all of my work myself. I've read that O2 sensors are terrible in these things.
So do you suggest me looking elsewhere for a vehicle and selling this thing? The car is in immaculate condition, no rust, digs, leather is perfect, hell even the auto tilt steering wheel works. I have an older Honda Accord that runs better than this thing. Let me know, anybody! Are there any good 95Ls out there?
Steve
(2)Anyone know how to re-program the keyless entry remote itself? FCC ID: KPU41048
Mazda Nut- How much does it cost you for the O2 sensor (just the parts)? I haven't had time to visit my mechanic and have him check out which O2 sensor(s) is bad. HOwever, after all those response I'm pretty sure it's the O2 sensor that's causing the problem. By the way, the code that you stated (P0400 and P1173) what's the problem with these 2 codes? I'm trying to figure out which O2 sensor had gone bad, since there are 4 of them. Thanks
Let me point you in the general direction of Julian Bradbury's Probe/626/MX-6 FAQ, which discusses this 2.5 engine (and some other bits) extensively.
Second, I replaced ONE O2 sensor on my L at the back of the engine when I did my valve cover gaskets. The codes really are weird - they do not tell you that much, just what is happening to the car and it is almost like a domino effect where things are affected in the system from one particular thing. I have the Chilton's book here so if you have a code that comes up, let me know and I'll tell you what I have on my end.
Unfortunatley you may have to replace all 4! Go with generic and stay away from the $140 Mazda O2 sensors.
-Peter
Mazda Nut- How much does it cost you for the O2 sensor (just the parts)? I haven't had time to visit my mechanic and have him check out which O2 sensor(s) is bad. HOwever, after all those response I'm pretty sure it's the O2 sensor that's causing the problem. By the way, the code that you stated (P0400 and P1173) what's the problem with these 2 codes? I'm trying to figure out which O2 sensor had gone bad, since there are 4 of them. Thanks
Mazda Nut (Peter) - Can you please check your Chilton's book for my codes, they're P0170 and P0173 (Fuel trim malfunction bank 1 & 2). Thanks a lot!!!
GTSpec (Andy)
Later,
Jason
P0170 -Bank 1 fuel trim malf.
P0173 - Same as above but for #2
Sorry, but this does look look like a bad O2 sensor or two...you just need to start to swap them out.
I have a revelation in this car. I received the title and was able to contact the owner of the Millenia who traded it in. This car has been a super lemon! He informs me that the car originally had an overheating problem and his wife still kept driving the car. Man, what was she thinking? The engine blew! So he replaced the engine with another 2.5L V-6 (the junk yard wasn't sure about the year of Millenia the engine came out of). Since then he hasn't been able to get this thing running correctly. After two complete tune-ups, timing belt and everything else replaced on the car, the car still has a very rough idle. He had a Mazda mechanic look at it and he told him that the computer may not be working well with the older computer. And that in 95, they had 2 different computers. He told me that that is the route I should follow. The computer needs to correlate with the engine. Any ideas?
The bad news is that I got one of these lemons that everybody spoke of. Damn!
The good news is that everything has been replaced on the car. Engine with 44,000 miles, new CV half shafts, new radiator, all ignition components. And the dealership is willing to work with me on this.
The question I have is Should I keep the car?
Granted 95 Millenias were some hectic [non-permissible content removed] cars. However, the car is in mint condition, immaculate. The interior is perfect, it is a Texas car, no rust. Always garaged.
All of the major "problem areas" have been replaced (engine, half shafts, radiator). I intend on bringing the vehicle to the local Mazda dealership and getting this idle issue squared away.
If it idles correctly and my components have been replaced and the car is in mint condition, is there any reason I don't keep it?
Thanks ahead of time!!!