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It has the same looks as the picture link :
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/ls430/152164d1252789355-the-diy-nav-- display-unlock-bluetooth-unlock-and-nav-destination-input-while-driving-remove-1- 0.jpg
I found the picture from lexus club forum
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls430/452376-the-diy-nav-display-unlock-bluetoot- h-unlock-and-nav-destination-input-while-driving.html
I have no clue what the button is about. Maybe someone did the same thing as the forum post. Why did someone unlock the bluetooth/nav ? What is the purpose ?
Of course, when the signal is restored, the navigation system has to update its new location, leading to a jump in location. Some versions of the software occasionally have problems, but mostly it is able to deal with the conflicting location information.
Tricky sequence to reset myself so I haven't been successful.
Does anyone know if the airbag will still trigger with only this code..??
* After repair of the trouble areas, the diagnostic code retained in the ECU memory must be cleared out by removing the EFI fuse (2OA) from J/B No. 2 for 10 seconds or more, with the ignition switch OFF.
HINT: Cancellation can also be done by removing the battery negative (-) terminal, but other memory systems (clock, etc.) will also be cancelled out.
* If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery terminal, a check must first be made to see if a diagnostic code has been recorded.
* After cancellation, road test the vehicle to check that a normal code is now read on the "CHECK" engine warning light.
* If the same diagnostic code appears, it indicates that the trouble area has not been repaired thoroughly.
NOTE: code 41 appears in a number of different systems of the car, not just airbag system. So the tech has to be in the right system. "41" can also mean deffects in ABS or Height Control.
I had switched out the instrument panel and apparently the air bag system had detected an open indicator bulb.
Finally cleared the fault by ignoring the shop manual instruction insofar as timing sequence. Says 1.0 seconds +0.5 seconds in each position when what really worked was less than 0.5 seconds.
Second, when I was researching buying the car, the only "drawback" I read was it didn't handle that well in wintry conditions. Got first hand experience of that yesterday, when I spun it out on I-5, Siskiyou Summitt in Oregon, in very light snow at 60 mph. Hair ball stuff. Rear end slid out on me, and then I'm doing a 540 in the middle of the freeway. I remember thinking, damn I'm surprised the car didn't roll (such was the force of the spin) which I guess speaks to the "good" handling of the car, which I've also been told about.
Any tire suggestions? Studded snow tires? (they're legal here in Oregon). I've got some Cooper all-weather on my rear tires, but they didn't do me much good yesterday, unless I should have them on front, too, to keep things "balanced".
thanks for any suggestions on either of these items.
-mac
Finally found a crack in the coolant reservoir near the coolant level sensor. I assume that normally the coolant never rises high enough to leak out this crack...but...
Is it possible that because with the crack the system cannot be pressurized and the coolant is boiling off..??
If the system can't be pressurzed will the coolant actually boil...off..??
The short answer is yes. Pressurization is used to elevate the boiling point of the coolant, and a return to atmospheric pressure due to a cracked reservoir or failed radiator cap will reduce it. This can lead to a slow loss of volume of coolant. It will also reduce the total heat transfer capacity of the system from the block to the radiator and under severe service conditions can lead to overheating as well.
PS: More details here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiling-point_elevation
and here:
http://chestofbooks.com/food/science/Experimental-Cookery/The-Boiling-Point-Of-W- - ater-And-Solutions.html
I do not know about Toyota Red/Pink formulations, but a glycol based coolant will have an accelerated evaporative loss if there is a crack in an unpressurized reservoir.
Hence I go back to my original question to wwest: What is the volume of the loss?
Maybe the car is just overheating?
I sealed the crack with epoxy and if it holds we will see...
The engine coolant temperature gage is rock solid at 2.3 marks and has been since the beginning.
Maybe a pint within a week but the car isn't driven often enough to really say.
Via the ATF cooler inside the radiator...??
ATF looks clear pink.
Engine oil looks normal.
Car parked in garage..no leaks on floor.
Lost ~8 ounces, 10 miles to, hour dinner, 10 miles from. Tank was at 10PSI of its own accord when we arrived at the restaurant.
No obvious "smoke"/steam/vapor at startup or with low gear coast down, DRAMATIC coastdown, high intake vacuum.
One other anomally..
At ~40MPH and 1500RPM the car "tugs"(***) once in awhile. Turn off the OD and drive 40MPH, or drive at 1500RPM no "tugs". 45MPH in OD no noticeable "tugs".
OD lockup clutch slipping...due to line pressure being too low..??
*** Feels as if something pulling backwards just momentarily. First thought it was an engine miss.
Engine RPM remains constant but that may be meaningless since the ECU drives it not engine directly.
Ran the car in diagnostic test mode several times with no resulting codes.
You aren't drinking this stuff are you?
I think you need to pressurize the system with a pump, about 3-5 lbs above cap pressure (no more) . Get under, look for leaks...if none....then pull spark plugs one by one (while still under pressure) and look for coolant on the tips.
But NOT TONIGHT!
(Don't forget to set your clock ahead one year before you go to sleep!).
But strange that no vapor out the tail pipe.
The pressurization test should reveal all, especially if you can get up on a lift. If you see no drips under pressure, then it's time to start pulling spark plugs.
Leaks can be tricky--they can travel along the length of the engine, they can get burned up by exhaust, etc.
Leaving me with the thought that I have a slight head gasket leak. Head gasket leaks can allow combustion pressure into the coolant system or coolant into the cylinders when there is a high vacuum there.
I see no signs of combustion pressure and the HARD coastdown in low gear doesn.t produce ANY "white" smoke.
You can also test coolant for combustion gases with a test kit.
Had 20PSI in the coolant system the whole time but no signs of moisture on any of the old plugs. Seven of the old plugs look just as expected(***), with the 8th one being very slightly more tan vs the grey of the others. Coloration on the "grey"plugs extends down to level with the plug skirt/threads while the "tan" one extends only halfway to that point.
In normal times I wouldn't even consider that slight difference as a symptom.
*** http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm
"Normal", and "Normal Life" pictures. Old plugs looked more like "Normal" rather than "Normal Life".
A fix, maybe...
1992 LS400 factory shop manual volume 1, page AT-43:
"(4) Shift-up to O/D will not occur when the engine coolant temp. is below 60C (140F) and the vehicle speed is below 60km/h (37 mph)."
Hmmmm...
Googled:
LS400 "coolant temperature sensor"
Found a number of instances of sensor failure.
When I removed the sensor it came apart in my hands...
New one was ~$30.
No reoccurance of "miss" in O/D at 40MPH.
And I suspect what was happening was that the sensor would go open circuit intermittently and maybe for just short, sub-second, durations. The only time this would have any affect was when right in the "cusp" of the ECU using O/D, or not, around 37MPH.
Might have even been a "vibratory" sensitivity due to engine vibration at 1500RPM.
Some good news? After having the engine rebuilt, everything is good as new.
If anybody can give me a hand i would appreciate it greatly!!!
I hope to have some picts up very soon !And if anybody is in Tucson AZ and want to get rid of their GS 430 wheels ill gladly liberate them for what ever fee we can agree on.Thanks Bladefoot
just kidding.... :P
I'd check with www.car-part.com and see if you can come up with something used. Parts for this car can be very expensive so be prepared to eat it if you can't find a used one. Have you checked on eBay? You never know what will show up there.
Believe me you if i could dads would be a avelon by the time he got back.
Thanks for the welcome!!!
It can readily be bypassed if it has. Its only purpose is to reduce the noise of refrigerant evaporation as/if/when liquid refrigerant at high volume enters the evaporator.
The EPR simply keeps the FULL compressor intake vacuum from "reaching" the cooling evaporator. Effectively provides "back-pressure" within the evaporator such that the evaporation rate, liquid to gas conversion rate, isn't so rapid as to be annoyingly noisy.
IMHO $100 is too much but $20 is TOO LITTLE...!
Strange...., or common...?
I have an '02 LS430 in Black Cherry Pearl. Any idea where I can get mud guards?
Thanks for your help.
Scott
My indy mechanic says I generally hold a car too long (i.e. 293,000 for my '95 Avalon) for a newer LS to make sense in that they have more expensive upkeep that could break me. The nagging issue for me with my car is the plastic tube from the radiator deteriorating such that the the gasket has to be cinched up high and checked periodically to keep the hose on. The car will also run hot if I'm in gridlock for 40 minutes or so, and I then turn up the heat to get the temp down. This was a common occurence this past summer.