Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

gmfan

My 4.2 L runs a little at or a little below 210 in 90+ heat and 70% humidity. The other day when I was idling in heavy traffic at 4:30 PM in downtown, it shot up to 235, then went back down to 210 within a minute...I could actually watch it move. I thought my waterpump might be going bad, but it has only done this once. I checked my coolant reservior and it was dry! Maybe in the extreme heat it there has been some evaporation. I added about a gallon of water to the resorvior and I have not a temp surge since. Your problem is most likely a faulty temp guage/sensor or a water pump that is going bad. Double check that motor oil level to be safe. The dealer should be able to listen to the water pump (you can too if you buy a type of stethoscope) - if it is "gargling" then the water pump bearings are going bad and it is a matter of time. Let us know.

tblazed

I added about a gallon of water...

Just plain water? There's about 3 1/2 gallons capacity in a full system. A gallon of water added would dilute the coolant mix ratio down quite a bit, which will lower the boiling point, and if you've added plain water in the past, even more so.

I keep a jug with premixed 50/50 DexCool and distilled water for occasional topping off. In 3 1/2 years, haven't had to add more than 6 to 8 oz a year to keep at the full mark.

malibu99

Every dealership I call ( parts department not service ) say that the swicth comes with a module that needs to be programmed so the power lock works with the remote I dunno what to do now.

to those that suggest I try to replace the bulb, is there a micro bulb I can but from radio Shack and try to fix it myself? Do I need a soldering gun? I want that fixed it drives me batty to see the light not working

ughgmcenvoy

does anyone know the part number to the external temp gauge? also, would replacing the gauge keep it from 'sticking' at one temp? South Louisiana is no place for a questionable a/c!

thanks

gmfan

Yes, I added plain water for a few days and then topped off with some with DexCool. Yes, you are right, it could have messed with the ratio. I probably added 35/65 water/coolant. Maybe I will add a little more coolant to get up it to 50/50.

tblazed

it shot up to 235, then went back down to 210 within a minute..

Might have just been the fan kicking in for more cooling and it took a minute for it to cool down and register on the gauge. Especially if it stabilized at 210°.

If you've been adding in some Dexcool with the water, it's probably OK. You could check it with an antifreeze tester (or antifreeze refractometer if you want to get fancy!)



A friend of mine had a Taurus with an overheating problem. All signs were the water pump was OK - no leak, no noise- but turned out the impeller was loose on the shaft, not turning or pumping enough. They replaced the fan clutch, thermostat, and radiator before they figured that one out.

wxman4

Thanks all. Lots to think about. Something like that loose impeller is what has me worried, something hard to find.

No problems with coolant level, etc. As a side note, the new fan clutch and PCM programming have helped the AC, if not the coolant temp. That is also a reason I am beginning to think it is not an "air" problem, but a flow problem of some sort. If air has been increased enough to improve AC and the coolant does not run any lower then I am thinking the problem is elsewhere. Going in again next week.

Thanks
Wxman

01_hoe

So you buy a switch from gmpartsdirect and replace yourself. Then take to dealer for programming (if it really needs it)
You might also find out from dealer who repairs their speedometers. This repair place might have a bulb.
Just throwing out some options.

tblazed

Does anyone have a source for urothane bushings for front swaybar to chassis, 2002 Envoy.

Just available from Prothane - front and rear urethane bushings for the stock bars - front 7-1184-BL and rear 7-1185-BL. Now you can tighten up your stock suspension with front and rear urethane bushings for about $25.

02envoyowner

The dealer did my fix on the temp gauge; all is well.
The receipt reads:
Correction: Replace Outside Temp Sensor
Part #: 000 015047946
Good Luck!

johntr

If the programming for the locks w/the remote is all you have to do. You can do it yourself. The instructions may be in the owners manual. I believe the 2002 manuals may have had a suppliment which was mailed. I had the instructions once, if you need them, I can try to find them. I'm also sure someone here can help as well.

I had to reprogram my remote once because I dropped the car off for a module replacement and I did not give them my remote. When I picked up the car, the dealer told me I could re-program the remote and I think they gave me the instruciton sheet.

john

deano

Hello all,

Over the weekend, we decided to take a little camping trip.

We pulled our 4400 lb. camper and, once again, experienced the transmission refusing to do the 2-3 upshift from after about 20 miles of driving onward.

This happens after it downshifts from 3rd into 2nd to climb an overpass, for instance. Then it won't shift back up into 3rd on the downside of the overpass unless I let off the throttle enough so that it slows down about 5 mph, at which point it has to downshift to speed back up. If I don't baby the throttle, the engine just screams along at 4500-5000 rpm in second gear even as I lightly lift the gas to try to get it to upshift. Instead of upshifting, it just slows down but remains in 2nd gear. So I let off the gas a little more and it finally upshifts. This all happens on level ground with no wind, and even on the downslope of an overpass, and only after about 15-20 miles. If I don't release the gas enough for a 5mph slowdown, it will drive for miles in 2nd gear. For the first 15-20 miles, it runs great and shift normally.

I also noticed that if I exit the highway and stop during this, I get the cooling fan roar when I take off again. Are the two symptoms related maybe?

I asked the dealer to look into this last summer, but no resolution.

Anyone here have the same towing problem?

Thanks,

Dean

ross1962

...Just available from Prothane - front and rear urethane bushings ...Now you can tighten up your stock suspension with front and rear urethane bushings...

Should last a lot longer as well.

tiger10

hello, i am going to be doing some beach driving/road trip this summer and my friend has a Chevy TrailblazerEXT LS2WD. and i was wondering if the 2WD Chevy can conquer the sand. any suggestions will be gladly accepted.
thanks- Tiger10.

stever

Check out SUVs for Beach Sand for tips.

Steve, Host

wrenchspin2

I have an early model 2003 Envoy XL SLT (6cyl) now having 48k miles. I've never been very impressed with the brakes on this truck (compared to other SUV's I've owned), pedal always felt mushy and not the best stopping. Yesterday I was going down a hill and was gradually pressing the pedal as I was nearing the bottom and the pedal slowly went right to the floor. I am assuming this is a master cylinder problem (fluid bypass). I based that on not seeing any wetness around the wheels and having no noticeable fluid loss. Has anyone else had master cylinder issues on this vehicle? I know that yes they can fail and not all of them last to higher mileage, but just curious if anyone has encountered any early failures? Are these available in auto parts stores? Seems easy enough (it's easily accessible) to replace it. Anything specific to know about doing this job (any special bleeding necessary due to ABS or anything like that?). I have done brake jobs on older vehicles (master cylinders/wheel cylinders etc and have experience with the basics), but haven't done it on a newer vehicle.
Also, does anyone have an est. price on getting the stabilizer end links replaced at GMC dealer, mine are fairly loose and clunking when hit a bump.
Thanks!

tblazed

does anyone have an est. price on getting the stabilizer end links replaced at GMC dealer,

The fronts list for about $70 ea, rears about $67 ea, plus about 1.5 hr labor to do all 4 so I would est about $400. Or go to a parts store, buy the Moog replacements with grease fittings for about $20-25 ea and do it yourself. If you can handle a master cylinder job, can do this too.

jay_24

I'll guess its too much for the tranny.
Does the 4400lbs include your gear? water (if you fill the holding tank on the camper)? How about people and cargo in the TB? all affect towing capacity.

Max towing is 5100lbs for a 4x4 with the 3.42 rear gear (standard)
Your pretty close to that max weight.
Add some wind and maybe a poor wheel bearing or stuck trailer brake on the camper making it tow a bit harder and it will really heat up the tranny fluid fast.

--jay

mrgem

My wife's 02 Bravada is making the "clunking" noises described on this forum in both the front end and the steering column. Sounds like GM has TSBs out on both problems. My question is this: We specifically chose the Bravada over the Envoy because the dealer sold us on its 5 yr/60k miles warranty. Does anyone know if GM will warranty these repairs on an 02 truck with 43k miles? Knowing most manufacturers, the warranty will only cover the drivetrain, and I doubt that they consider the front suspension and steering to be part of that system.

Second question regards my boss' 02 Trailblazer. Her rotors seem to warp at 5k intervals. The Chevy dealer tells her it is her "driving style", but this is one of many GM trucks she's owned, and the first one that seems to use rotors on a regular basis. Is there a chronic problem with these trucks' brake rotors? Is there a TSB relating to that problem?

TIA

gmfan

I understand the 5 yr/60K miles warranty as a factory warranty that should cover everything bumper to bumper.

My 02 TB has 69K miles and I have the original brakes and rotors and have zero rotar warping problems. In fact, this SUV's brakes are better and higher quality and lasting longer than a Durango and Grand Cherokee I used to own. The brakes calipers are powerful using double pistons for strong stopping power. It is likely a "driving style" issue, but it could be defective brake system. If you speed and brake hard, then the life of the brake system can be significantly impacted. However, 5,000 miles is too soon in my opinion unless she is a crazy driver. I would make sure the dealer "replaces" the front rotars next time, do not allow them to "turn" them, and then monitor the situation. My wife's Lexus RX 300 had new brakes and rotars at 16K miles because Lexus used hard pads that were damaging the rotars. It was all covered under warranty. - In other words, every vehicle, including the "perfect" Lexus has issues. But, I am not aware of the Envoy, TB, or Bravada having braking issues. Anyone else on the forum that differs?

-gmfan

imadad2

The brakes on the TB is the main reason I bought it. My wife murdered my old Dodge Crapavan ... err Caravan. She has no clue what sounds breaks should make, and ground the rotor and calipers up when the brake shoes wore out. I wanted to make sure that the brakes would last on this truck for a long, long, time. When I buy my next vehicle (2008 or 2009) I will take over driving the TB daily. At that time I expect to replace brakes. Approx. 50,000 miles. I have heard tons of raves about the brakes on the triplets. This problem is the first I have heard or read. Either someone beats the hell out of the brakes, or they were defective. Hopefully they will replace them under warranty.

gmfan

What you describes does sound like brake master cylinder. I have a repair manual and it does not look too difficult. I will try to remember to read it over and let you know if I see anything odd or strange regarding doing the work yourself. How is the brake fluid level?

You said "I've never been very impressed with the brakes on this truck (compared to other SUV's I've owned)," - What other SUV's have better brakes?

longdistancetb

If she is warping rotors at that rate, she might be keeping one foot on the brake all the time, or has never learned how to "brake in advance" (poor braking technique), or drives around with the emergency brake on (What the heck is that "DING DING DING" noise?). Warping generally comes from either extreme heating (bad braking habits) or from improper torqueing of the wheels to the hub (ie over-torqueing or uneven torqueing).

fyreman235

I have 87K miles on my 02 Bravada. Each time I have any service I ask them to check the brakes. The last time they said that I have 30% left on my pads. I have never driven over 50K on a set of brakes before. Although quite a bit of my 87K is highway driving, I still think that many miles on brakes is incredible. A friend who owned a previous-vintage Bravada warned me about his brake problems. He averaged about 10K on pads. It seems that GM did at least one thing right with the triplets!

burdawg

We have an 02 TB with 32K miles. I rotated the tires recently and found the brakes to be at 80% or slightly better. That's amazing, with stop and go traffic in Southern California, plus the wife using it about 90% of the time (she's a little hard on the brakes). Usually, I'm happy to get 25K on the front pads.

envoyenvy2

I also was told at 46K that my pads looked pretty much new. I did have to have the rotors turned due to pulsating. The guy at the tire store mentioned that if you have been braking a lot and heating the rotors and then they get wet it can cause warping from the rapid cool down. Guess this makes sense.

mrgem

Thanks for the info, GMFan. I just checked my wife's brakes at 41k and they looked great as well. Our last Bravada, a 97, only got 17k out of the front pads. We live 9 miles up a mountain canyon and driving in the mountains tends to eat brakes up -- but this 02 Bravada has been excellent in that respect.

But back to my boss' 02 Trail Blazer...Her brakes have gotten used up about 5 or 6 times in the 46k miles she has put on the truck. She tells me she has never had a problem with disk warpage or pad wear on any of the other cars or trucks she's owned, so I tend to believe there might be a problem with the truck, rather than her driving style. She also told me that she is averaging less then 15 mpg, while my wife, with an AWD Bravada, is averaging almost 19 mpg, with driving that includes plenty of mountain climbing. The AWD system alone should create more drag and result in lower mileage, I would think.

Do you think she could have a hydraulic problem that is causing her pads to drag and overheat the rotors? That could also explain the poor mileage, don't you think?

wrenchspin2

gmfan, thank you for checking your repair manual. Please let me know if you happen to spot any unusual steps. The fluid level is normal, no loss (is slightly below the MAX line), I checked all the wheel/caliper areas anyway and was no sign of any wetness. So my assumption is the MC bypassing fluid.
To answer your question- (and please keep in mind most people have varying opinions) I just never liked the brake pedal feel or pedal travel. I've previously owned a Pathfinder and two 4Runners that, in my opinion, had better brake feel.
I currently also have a 2005 4Runner and I like the brakes. Have I done any technical data research comparing SUV braking ? Nope. I just made my statement based on my foot and seat-of-pants feeling of driving the vehicle over the past 3 yrs. Of course, your question '"what other SUV's have better brakes?" could be taken in different ways. Did you mean 'better' as in just comparing overall dry stopping distance, or do you mean "better" as in comparing the braking system components of available SUV's such as rotor size/design, pad composite, applied brake system pressure, single/dual pistion calipers, ABS design used, and wet stopping distance ? I guess all of the above would have to be considered to decide what SUV out there has the "better" brakes! Of course, there are also people who would perhaps feel that their vehicle has 'better' brakes because their semi-metallic pads lasted them for 60k or they never had a warped rotor or evil caliper that froze up! Haha.
Our Envoy has been the classic love/hate relationship; love the looks/design, the ride and comfort and gadgets. Hate the things that have broken, still don't work correctly, software gremlins that come and go with a mind of their own, and parts that prematurely wore out. Would I buy another one? Yeah probably would dang it.

deano

The trailer is 3300# dry and about 3700# wet (w/ propane & water). Add some food, luggage and 5 bicycles and I'd guess we're way less than 4400#. The five of us people weigh around 700# so the weight added to the truck (people and trailer) is way less than 5100 pounds.

My TB has the 3.73 ratio so I think the rating is up to 5600 or so. There was no wind, but the ambient temp was in the mid 80's, and the road was fairly level (in NW Ohio).

On a hunch (since this happened before), as we were getting ready the day before, I jacked the trailer and all four wheels spun very freely.

Too bad that the tranny acts up like this, since GM originally touted the EXT version as a towing vehicle. It's very stable and comfy pulling my trailer, but this non-shifting drove me crazy.

I know it has one built in, but maybe I need to add an aftermarket tranny cooler?

Thanks for the comments,

Deano

gmfan

I forgot to look at the manual for you. I will take a look later today and get back to you. I agree with you description of the "feel" of the brakes. I never liked them either from the beginning, but the vehicle feels like it has much more stopping power than my other SUV's (Durango and Grand Cherokee). If someone wants extra stopping power, then I guess they could add ceramic pads, but ceramic will kill the rotor, at least it did on my Grand Cherokee. I would say the braking system is on par with other Japanese vehicles, but I agree the "feel" could be better. It is almost as if the pressure is low because there is not enough resistance when you depress - Mine has always felt this way.

dmathews3

When towing a trailer as heavy as yours compared to just a little 4 sides utility trailer you should always have a trans cooler added. A hundred dollar cooler is a whole lot cheaper than a new trans. :shades:

deano

Before I tow the camper again, I think I will add another tranny cooler to see if that helps. Even though GM specifically says that no further cooler is needed for towing up to the rated weights, it sure can't hurt anything.

Deano

gmfan

Has anyone washed their engine yet, and if so, any problems? I have never washed an engine. For some reason, I am cautious in thinking water can damage the alternator etc. Yet my father-in-law thinks I am crazy to worry and he blasts his motors with wash all the time.

tperegoy

I recently had my '04 TB at the dealership to replace the air sensor. The warranty covered that. While there, they said I needed to computer updates for my TB. That was not free and would cost $235.00! I said, "No way!"

Question: Why am I being charged for computer updates anyway? Should they be included in "recall" or warranty products? Any updates for a computer would imply changes needed to the original system - i.e. to fix software bugs. If it's just new stuff, I didn't need that they day I drove off with my new vehicle so I don't need it now.

Does anyone have info on being charged for car computer updates? Is this a common practice? Has anyone had it performed and if so, what changes or effects did you notice?

Thanks!

01_hoe

I have had some computer updates, but all were done under warranty at no cost to me. Sounds like the dealer would also charge for topping off the blinker fluid.

ugltrk

Cleaned mine recently, springtime yellow pollen residue. Soap, and water when I did the outside, did the engine also...no problems. A mechanic friend of mine said be cautious around the elect connections, otherwise, never had a problem.

Bill

twinrotts

Approaching 48K miles and thinking about new tires (All Seasons) for next winter.
Would be interested in hearing what others are buying and some opinions

mrgem

In Colorado, because of the icy roads here at 8200 feet, we replace tires at 25k, as a matter of course on all our trucks. We are now on our second set on my wife's 02 Bravada, and only a couple thousand miles from our next set. When it came time to replace the original Michelins, I shopped and shopped for any kind of value in the 17-inch tires. I found that no one sells these tires at any kind of value price, but some are less than others. You ought to try:
www.tirerack.com
www.discounttiredirect.com
www.samsclub.com

Ultimately, Sam's Club got the nod in my case, with a set of Michelins just like those I was replacing. Why?
* I could get them installed by the same people from whom I'd purchased them.
* The other close competitor, Continental, got bad ratings for winter traction on the tirerack site.
* Installation included balancing, valve stems, lifetime rotation, and a road hazard guarantee for less than 10 bucks/wheel
* The installed price was the least expensive - about $110/wheel.
* We own Wal Mart stock. Always good to do business with the places where you invest.

fyreman235

My Michelin Cross Terrains still had tread at over 60K, but I was about to take a 5000-mile round trip to California, so I replaced them. I chose Cross Terrains again because I had the full-size spare and only replaced three of them. We thought the Bravada rode very well for an SUV so had no qualms about using the same tires.

macatowa

I bought a two rear tires, they are "Goodyear Tracker" from Wal Mart and they have the deepest tread I have ever seen on a SUV tire. The other day I was driving thru 2" of rain on the road due to a heavy thunderstorm and the bite was excellent. They look like they will be very good in snow. I'll give a post when I find out. The front tires are the std issue BF Goodrich open trail which I was able to get 55 K on the them.

msbodine

I have had my Trailblazer for two years now. 63,000 miles. No problems out of it at all until about nine months ago when I noticed the ticking noise coming out from under the hood. And me being a woman, my husband and father in law thought I was hearing things. Well four months ago the "roaring" sound started. I finally figured out what it is by browsing this forum. What I want to know is what will happen if I continually drive my truck with the fan clutch acting up as I don't have the $350-$600 it will take to fix it right now. Will anything else be affected?? I love this truck folks. Thanks in advance...

tblazed

four months ago the "roaring" sound started...what will happen if I continually drive my truck with the fan clutch acting ...Will anything else be affected??

I would say as long as the cooling fan is engaged and moving enough air to keep temps within proper range and the fan is not far enough off speed to turn on the Service Engine Soon light you're probably OK. The fan clutch has a feedback circuit built in to tell the computer if the fan speed is incorrect.

You would have to address this right away if the fan was not engaged enough, turning too slow and the engine was overheating.

Replacement is so expensive due in part to the amount of disassembly and labor time required to do the job, mainly because GM made the fan shroud as one piece. On a lot of other vehicles, my old '88 S-10 pickup for one, the fan shroud is two pieces, and the top can be easily removed by removing 4 bolts for access to the fan clutch, making the job easy compared to the Trailblazer and its cousins.

fyreman235

Had a ticking sound full time, and a roaring during acceleration. Original diagnosis was the fan clutch. When I brought it in, they found the manifold bolts loose and both sounds were caused by an exhaust leak...a relatively cheap fix. Something to look into. However the roaring when the engine is cold has been there since the Bravada was new, and has caused no apparent problem. I just take it real easy for the first minute or so.

gmoudy

I have a 02 Trailblazer and have had that "roaring" noise since I bought it. It only does it when first started up and the engine isn't up to running temp yet. After about a minute or so, and the SUV gets up to running temp, it goes away. Have never had any overtemp problems. This TB has made several trips from NM to CA with no problems.

gmcman

What gear ratio do you have because 15 MPG if all city is about right, considering nearly 5,000 lbs with driver and 270 HP. I had my rear rotors replaced under warranty if that helps at about 40K. I would suggest like the other poster said to check your wheel torque, you cant really check but re-tighten. Do you have your wheels rotated by a shop and do they re-install with an impact? They have to be properly torqued or you will get warped rotors. Do you wash the truck after you drive it and not let the brakes cool, that will wrinkle your rotors for sure. Once the rotors are warped you cannot turn them out, you can fix for a short while but they will go right back. NEVER let someone use an impact to install the lugs, this isn't nascar. I doubt the pads are dragging but a remote possibility, you would notice fade rather quickly and when you apply the brakes it may pull to one side if one wheel is grabbing. Your vehicle is very heavy and the braked are quite powerful and the brakes actually make the vehicle feel "light". I would ride with her and examine her braking habits, late heavy braking compared to gradual. Not to sound bitter towards the woman but it would eliminate the human error. I actually put mine in 3rd when descending long steep grades, long light braking really heats up the brakes. Just because it is light pressure does not mean you're not getting heat. I don't know all the specifics of your driving styles but just want to throw out some pointers.

gmcman

What gear do you tow in? If you use 4th all the time it may jump in and out of OD and at least the torque converter probably constantly goes in and out of lock-up. Definately get a trans temp gauge if you do alot of towing and install sensor at pan. I have not done one yet but plan to in near future. The thing about towing heavy loads is you must change your driving style if you want your trans to last. No getting around everyone that is driving a little slow and trying to pass using alot of throttle all the time. When you hit the gas w/ no trailer the truck goes, w/ a trailer the trans has much more input at the engine compared to the tailshaft creating heat in the torque converter, kinda like power braking. I believe the recommended flush interval is 25K miles, I would suggest this if you have not done so to get the old fluid out before it becomes to late to do this.

corrinas30

I have been reading messages for about an hour now looking for someone
who says good things about their '02. Since I bought mine I have had it
in the shop many times. First time was for a squeek coming from the front
end that would happen when I came to a stop. The next one was my rear
air/heat wouldn't work and the dealership replaced that modual. Then one day
I start up the Trailblazer to take the kids to school and my car is vibrating
just sitting there. So much so that I could feel it through the steering wheel.
That was caused by little rocks and sand that had got caught up in between
where my transmission is mounted next to the exhaust. It took the dealership
a week to figure that one out. At the same time they informed me that my 4 wheel drive modual was not working and they replaced that too.
Now, 5 months later I get up in the morning
to take my trailblazer to the mocha stand and there is an oil spot under my
car. Under closer examination I discover its brake fluid. I am lucky that my
Uncle is a mechanic. He's going to take care of this problem for me. Now
that my Trailblazer is not under warrenty I am very scared of the transmission
going out. I have 41,000 miles on it. Never in my car owning years have I worried
about a vehicle with this low of miles having a major problem like that. I have always owned GM cars. My first was a '87 Camaro then a '92 Camaro after that
was a ' 97 Prizm and then a 2000 Blazer. I was extatic when Chevy came out with
the Trailblazer in '02. As soon as they were available where I live I went out and bought mine. All my other cars had 80,000+ miles on them when I let them go and NEVER had a major issue EVER....now I am plagued with them. It makes me
extremely sad that GM has really dropped the ball with the Trailblazer.

tblazed

I would buy my 2002 again. Haven't had any more squeaks since the one in the front got fixed in Jan '02 right after I bought it. No leaks at all, no rattles. 2WD so I don't have 4WD things to go wrong. Not much GM can do about rocks you drive over getting caught between the trans and exhaust - too bad the dealer didn't notice that sooner. I had the same thing happen to an '82 Mustang GT I owned because I have a gravel driveway- in fact it picked up several rocks I removed with a screwdriver or a coathanger wire. Hasn't happened so far with the Trailblazer. If you had good luck with the transmissions in your Camaros and Blazer, the trans in the TB is very similar, derived from the 700-R4 that was in everything from S10s to Surburbans. I would buy another Trailblazer except for the missing items and severe decontenting, and unwanted OnStar equipment standard on pretty much all of them now, at the expense of the Side Air Bags I do want that were standard equipment in '02, but not quality issues.

pepper50

I have an '02 Envoy, with 31,000 miles. There are 42 months on the original factory battery. The green indicator still appears normal. How long should these batteries last normally? When replacing, have most people gone with the same brand from the dealer? If not, what has your luck been with installing another brand?

In searching previous messages on this topic, I read that a few people had had leaking batteries because of the side terminal posts. Is this peculiar to Delco brand, or a problem with any brand of sidepost battery.?

Thanks.

gmcman

I personally have never had any problems with an AC Delco battery, especially a leaking one. I guess to be safe at your oil change intervals give the batt a once over to be sure. Generally batteries last about 5-6 years depending on whether or not they ever went dead. The best thing to do to avoid working your alternator to much in which case you will not notice until it is too late is to get a load test done on the battery every 6 months after about the 4 year mark. Most shops will do this for nothing or a couple bucks. Once the battery gets old you will still have a green light indicating sufficient charge but may not have the reserve capacity it once did. One more thing, when it's time to replace I would go with an AC Delco from either Costco, Sams, for about $45-60 or get an interstate battery, the dealer will most likely take you to the cleaners for a new one. You wont need to get one from the dealer, I have had good luck with all my batts from the above mentioned including the ones from the wholesale clubs, interstate would probably be the best bet.