I have a 97 Mazda 626 LX and recieved an estimate of $1,101.90 to replace the water pump because they tell me I need to also replace the camshft seal,timing belt crp, crankshaft seal, timing belt tensioner,timing belt idler LO, timing belt idler UP. I bought the car in 7,2002 and still owe $2000 on it. I have kept up with the needed work and it has 100671 mi. on it. I like it but not this much. I have already put about $1800. into it. The mechanic tells me the leak is from the water pump. The timing belt, seals and gaskets were replaced 10,000 miles back and I don't see why I should do this again. I do understand that replacing the water pump is labor intensive but can it be done without replacing everything else? I'm thinking of selling it and would like to know how much to deduct for the water pump job?
I have 91 camaro RS 3.1 L V6 Fuel injection,Auto. The engine wont run.If i put some fuel in Throttle Body the engine run and it stops. I put new plugs, distributor cap,fuel filter,fuel pump, spark plugs wires, ignition coil. fuel pressure on intake is 45 psi. anybody can help me...
Inexperienced and felt a bit suspicious about cost estimate for putting new front brake pads (and machining rotors) . together with brake flush, plus "basic services" such as transmission fluid change etc is $460. this was broken out after I expressed alerm about total cost estimate of about $1,000 to include two new front tires and alignment. this vehicle is a 2002 Odyssey one year out from a total front-end replacement due to crash. any feedback on whether these estimates sound even ballpark-correct or not would be most appreciated. questions we should ask, etc also welcomed. need to act quickly since car is in shop awaiting go-ahead. we are new in town and took it to a chain tire store for repairs. car has about 38K miles on it, fyi, and has been driving mountain roads (paved) for about a year thanks for any help, here or to cav1898@yahoo.com.
I have a 1999 Toyota 4 runner SR 5 that will lock the rear brakes when applying them after running thru a car wash sometimes. It does not always do it. Any ideas why?
I know nothing about 4Runners. But my guess would be is that you have drum rear brakes. Moisture on them, from any water source, even wet weather may be rusting the drums up on an overnight set. (I am guessing the lock or 'grab' is after the vehicle has set for several hours and not been driven). When you next drive the car, the rust will cause the drum brakes to grab for the first few applications, until the rust is worn off.
Ranger pickups are well know for this - I have one. I just 'ride' the brakes LIGHTLY for about 100 feet when I first drive off after an overnight set. This will heat up the drums, driving off water, and remove the rust.
Other than this (which is 'just living with it'), you might have the brakes shoes replaced and a different brand might give you better service.
P.S. If your car has disk rear brakes, forget everything above. The calipers are probably needing greasing. They are not sliding on the 'pins' and releaseing after application. A good mechanic can fix this problem, and it doesn't require replacing the pad or machining the rotors.
Of course, this is based upon you not actually needing a brake job, on either drum or disk brakes.
It can, but rebuilt pumps are rarely of the same quality as new, and you already have a used pump on it so why put another used one on? Considering the labour involved in replacing the pump, best bet is to install new.
If the idler pulleys and seals were replaced 10,000 miles ago, I'd recommend pump and timing belt replacement only. The belt isn't that expensive, it's probably contaminated with coolant, and it has to be removed to access the water pump.
The blower in my 97 Mercury Villager started working on only one speed for a week, and then quit completely. I have heard that the problem may be a resistor. Does anyone know if this is true, and if so, where on the vehicle do I find this resistor?
I was prepared to clean the throttle body on my 1995 Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I then noticed a sticker attached that said Do not clean, throttle body has special coating. Will I damage this using STP throttle body cleaner? It looks filthy in there and I'd really like to clean it up.Thanks in advance for any help.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
I have a 1995 VW Passat Sedan. I unfortunately do not have the manual and it is the weekend. When I started the car this morning the Engine Temp light immediately started flashing - at least that is what I think it is. Looks like a little thermometer with wavy lines at the bottom. The engine temp gage did not read high for any of my 8 mile commute. Without my manual, I'm not sure what I'm being told by the flashing light.
Does any one have suggestions? Is that indeed the temperature light? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have a 2003 Dodge Durango SLT 4x4. I was told by the dealership to use 75W-140 for both front and rear. The rear holds approx 2.5 quarts of fluid, but I'm not sure how much the front diff holds. Would you be able to tell me the fluid capacity of the front differential?
The owners manual lists 75W90 but the dealership recommended 75W140. Suppose they get a better markup for the 140. I just put in what they recommended to avoid any "warranty" issues as the attendant put it.
that's just it - if you use 140 weight, even if it's recommended by the service manager, and you have a differential failure (which DCC products are known for), the lube viscosity will certainly come into question - I would do what the owner's manual says, not "Bubba" the mechanic...it's YOUR vehicle and YOUR warranty, not his.
To clarify some points and add to what has been said........ The rear only has 75w140 specified for it ONLY for severe duty and towing and only the Mopar synthetic. Do NOT use 75w140 for the front differential under any circumstances. Always use the correct oil that is in your owner's manual, NOT what the dealer tells you.
Front Axle SAE 75W-90 Multipurpose Type, GL-5 Gear Lubricant. 1.66 L (3.5 pts.)
Rear Axle SAE 75W-90 Multipurpose Type, GL-5 Gear Lubricant. Limited-Slip rear axles require Mopar limited slip additive. Four (4) ounceed ( 118 mL) should be added to the gear lubricant. Rear Axle - 9 1/4 Inch 2.32 L (4.9 pts.) with traction lock add 118 ml (4 oz) of friction modifier Rear Axle - 8 1/4 Inch 2.1 L (4.4 pts.) with traction lock add 118 ml (4 oz) of friction modifier
Rear Axle for Trailer Towing For all trailer towing or heavy duty applications, replace the factory fill rear axle fluid with Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant SAE 75W-140.
I'm glad you can count on your friendly neighborhood dealer to steer you in the wrong direction. Now enters in the problem. I have all ready swapped out the fluids with Amsoil 75W140, rear and unfortunately the front. With this being a full synthetic is there a major problem with it being in the front? If yes, is this something that will be fine for a week (approx 300 miles) or do I need to swap it back before it's driven?
I would take it back to the dealer, show them your owner's manual, and demand that the Amsoil be replaced with that of the proper weight - we're talking some bucks that you've already spent, and you shouldn't have to spend any more.
I agree with driftracer, Since it was their recommendation that led you to replace the oil, then they should be the ones to take care of it. If they tell you it is ok, then ask them to put it in writing that they recommended the 75w140 in both differentials and should there be a problem, that Chrysler, not the dealer will not void the warranty. While this may seem a little overboard, I have seen warranties be denied for alot less than using oil other than what is specified. As far as driving it for a week or so, I cannot see any problem with it. If it were out of warranty, I would say leave it until you feel comfortable changing it. But if it is under warranty, then you will want to get it changed out.
Do you know if your Rear differential is limited slip? If it is, then you need to add the limited slip differential additive or you will have problem with the rear differential.
Thanks alcan, my son said he will take over the Mazda and get the repairs done and give me his Toyota. I will pass that message on to him. I'm happy with the trade.
While driving my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee at 50 mph, the car began to lose power and shake. The check engine light came on and began to flash. After I pulled over, the light remained, but did not flash. While driving home (50 miles), the car ran fine. I took it into the Jeep dealer and they diaganosed the problem as a misfire in the #4 cylinder. After changing out the spark plug in that cylinder it had a 'random' misfire that they could not locate. They suggested replacing the spark plugs and doing a fuel system cleaning by 'flushing' and cleaning of the fuel lines/rails and then adding a fuel cleaner to the fuel tank. The mechanic said he wasn't sure if that would fix the problem though I told the mechanic I replaced the factory at 30K and 60K with $4/apiece Champion SUV spark plugs. The mechanic told me they recommend only using MOPAR plugs and that could be causing the problem???? The problem did occur twice before about 3000 and 1500 miles ago, but went away after turning the car off. Does the mechanic's explanation/solution sound right?? As background- I have done the vast majority of recommended service done to it- oil change every 3k, transmission filter/oil change at 60k, new tires at 50k, new brakes at 60k. Overall, I like the car, but it has had numerous electrical problems in the past- some under warranty, some not. It is a 4.0 V6 w/ 63k miles on it.
I am the second ownder of a 2000 Nissan Quest GXE with 89,000 miles. I experience intermittent loss of Power Steering i.e. the steering becomes very heavy for a couple of minutes. This has happened only when I am reversing the minivan in the parking lot or on my driveway.
Some times I also hear a loud squeaky noise coming from the engine compartment. It appears that the belt(s) is making the noise. The noise is more pronounced on rainy/cloudy days. The minivan has after-market belts. Can this be the reason for the noise?
The Nissan dealer says I should replace the PS pump along with Steering rack. Total cost: $1600. I had a gas station mechanic shop inspect the van. They recommend that I replace all three after-market belts (PS, A/C and water pump) along with PS fluid flush. The dealer told me that my PS belt is tight.
I am confused. Any feedback or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
Yeah, I think a loose belt would be the first thing to correct and then take it from there. If you haven't replaced the belts, it's a good idea for 89K miles, and a P/S flush as well.
If the steering rack isn't leaking and the pump isn't showing signs of wear (which you can check with the belt off to some extent), I would touch those right now.
And don't have a gas station do the work unless you really have a well-known and thoroughly trained person in there.
Sounds like the plugs are the symptom and not the disease. The disease might very well be bad or dirty injectors. A good cleaning is worth a try because anything else is going to be a lot more expensive.
If that doesn't work, you could work through the ignition system then. Also you should check the last time you replaced the fuel filter.
My 98 Rodeo has an intermittent problem with the ignition. Most of the time, my key turns easily. But sometimes, the key will not turn at all (therefore, I can't start the car). It is not an old key problem - I've used different keys when this happens. It may take several trys before it will turn - sometimes taking over 30 minutes of trying. The shop said it could be a bad ignition, but couldn't guarantee that replacing the ignition would fix my problem.
After over 2 months of easy starting, this happened again last weekend, after the alarm was accidentally set off by the keyless remote. Is it possible that the alarm could be "locking" the ignition? I silenced the alarm properly, but still could not turn the key for over 30 minutes.
Other related chat discussions I've seen involve not being able to remove the key from the vehicle - but this has never been my problem.
I am a Edmunds fan but I'm more into reading rather than asking but here goes- Two technical questions on this Toyota-
I keep getting a check engine light...been thru the whole ball of wax...new plugs...new ($$$$)catalytic converters (thats right- 2) and now the dealership has turned the light off three times for an EGR valve........does this sound like a permanent fix? Whats the EGR valve do anyway? (Emissions I'm sure)
Second question- The vehicle has 153K miles on it and the Supercharger has been serviced with new (Toyota Synthetic) oil 3 times since I bought it with 55K...I'm about ready to get that service done again...how long can a properly maintained Supercharger expect to last??? That 3000 bill for labor & parts to replace it will make this van a yard ornament once the S/c goes out!!!! I'm not having any issues with the S/C other than the whining noise...then again maybe thats the 10 year old in the back seat...... THANKS
Exhaust Gas Recirculation and the valve directs unspent exhaust fumes back into the engine for reburning, and the subsequent air cleaning that the reburning performs.
Having a dirty or non-working EGR valve will cause stalling, poor fuel mileage, and poor performance - cleaning the valve itself may help (versus replacing it).
The supercharger in your van isn't running radical levels of boost, so with proper maintenance (sounds like what you're doing), it should go to 175-200k or more.
Hey guys..I have a 98 Gr Cherokee 6cyl wit 70000 miles. For the past year I have intermittent crazy episodes of this insane wobble that the Jeep gets when e.g I am driving around 50mph and hit even a small bump in the road. I does not happen oftern..but when it does..HOLY CRAP..the entire car shakes like crazy and decelerates very quickly. After a complete stop..the car is fine to drive again. I used to think it happened only when I hit a bump ( and trust me when I say bump I mean a small small bump) at an angle or when cornerning..but it is completely random. I have spent over 2 grand and have had almost everything changed on the front end. No mechanic down here can figure it out. Also..it sounds like metal metal hitting metal if I go over holes or bumps at very slow (<10mph) speed and I think the steering feels loose. I am a student and this is killing me..but..I love this car and with such low miles want to keep it till at least I graduate. Thanks and sorry for the long note.
Not quite. Combustion chamber flame temp can routinely exceed 2500F. At this temp, a chemical process takes place allowing oxides of nitrogen (NOx), a major contributor to photochemical smog, to form. If the temp is reduced by several hundred degrees, the chemical process producing NOx can't take place. This reduction in flame temp is accomplished by introducing a small amount of inert or non-combustible gas, the carbon dioxide in the vehicle's exhaust, into the combustion chambers.
The dodge stratus message board is archived, so I am not sure where to ask this question... Please help me out. I have a 2003 Stratus SE, it makes a whistling noise when I am speeding along at 72-74 mph (I know... technically should not be going that fast but oh well) I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there is a way to fix it with in a reasonable price range, noting that I am still on the original 36,000 mile warrentee? Thanks for your help.
Note that the message above was moved from another board. I've asked the member to provide some more information about the problem.
kirstie_h Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
You're right.. I didn't clarify where the whistling is coming from... Sorry. It sounds to me like it is under the under the driver side of the hood. And I should also say that if I go 75mph or above (but of course I never go that fast)it goes away. I am assuming it is some kind of wind noise but it is very irritating and would like to get rid of it. Thanks again for your help
You're right.. I didn't clarify where the whistling is coming from... Sorry. It sounds to me like it is under the under the driver side of the hood. And I should also say that if I go 75mph or above (but of course I never go that fast)it goes away. I am assuming it is some kind of wind noise but it is very irritating and would like to get rid of it. Thanks again for your help
Hello. Have a 98 Dodge RAM van conversion with ABS on rears only. Appx 77000 miles. About 1925 miles ago, ie 75 miles after my factory extended warranty ended, whattyaknow, both the ABS and BRAKE lights came on and haven't gone out since. Brakes work fine (though I can't be sure ABS is working or not), fluid level is topped off and the fuse at the instrument panel is OK. I have looked at the rear wheels but don't see any obvious damage or loose wiring etc.
There is one more perhaps? related thing that happened at about same time - the speedometer does not come off 0 mph until the van is going about 25-30 mph. Friend who's a service writer said good chance the IP circuit board is cracked slightly?
Anyone have any thoughts?
BTW: I did ask the dealer if they'd do something for me since this happened just a few miles after warranty expired. Answer: fat chance.
The only way to diagnose it properly is to start by retrieving the stored trouble codes and go from there. That Kelsey-Hayes ABS system requires a scan tool for code retrieval. Might be a speed sensor problem but anything's guessing without the code #'s.
When I previously owned VWs (an '87 and a '93), the maintenance guides called for changing out the brake fluid every two years, because it could somehow absorb water and cause problems.
Now with my '01 Toyota, the maintenance guide does not mention changing the brake fluid. Even more surprisingly, three various local dealerships' maintenance recommendations, usually overkill that serve the service departments' bottom lines most of all IMO, do not mention changing the brake fluid either.
Has anything about this changed in recent years, does anyone here know? Was/is it just a VW thing?
How often, if ever, is it really necessary, under normal conditions, to change the brake fluid?
Read this article and then decide. Brake fluid article, by Alcan. Al's article is by far one of the best articles I've seen. Then again, I may be biased.
The article is based on facts, not opinions, so I would pay close attention to what it says.
If you are in a high humidity area, then I would shoot for every 2-3 years. Low humidity areas may be able to go a little longer, but high heat may cause other problems.
Has anyone changed the headlight bulb? I was able to disconnect the wires, but wasn't able to get the bulb out. Do I have to remove the hole light fixture?
Comments
I put new plugs, distributor cap,fuel filter,fuel pump, spark plugs wires, ignition coil.
fuel pressure on intake is 45 psi. anybody can help me...
this vehicle is a 2002 Odyssey one year out from a total front-end replacement due to crash. any feedback on whether these estimates sound even ballpark-correct or not would be most appreciated.
questions we should ask, etc also welcomed. need to act quickly since car is in shop awaiting go-ahead. we are new in town and took it to a chain tire store for repairs.
car has about 38K miles on it, fyi, and has been driving mountain roads (paved) for about a year
thanks for any help, here or to cav1898@yahoo.com.
Ranger pickups are well know for this - I have one. I just 'ride' the brakes LIGHTLY for about 100 feet when I first drive off after an overnight set. This will heat up the drums, driving off water, and remove the rust.
Other than this (which is 'just living with it'), you might have the brakes shoes replaced and a different brand might give you better service.
P.S. If your car has disk rear brakes, forget everything above. The calipers are probably needing greasing. They are not sliding on the 'pins' and releaseing after application. A good mechanic can fix this problem, and it doesn't require replacing the pad or machining the rotors.
Of course, this is based upon you not actually needing a brake job, on either drum or disk brakes.
If the idler pulleys and seals were replaced 10,000 miles ago, I'd recommend pump and timing belt replacement only. The belt isn't that expensive, it's probably contaminated with coolant, and it has to be removed to access the water pump.
Does any one have suggestions? Is that indeed the temperature light? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
The rear only has 75w140 specified for it ONLY for severe duty and towing and only the Mopar synthetic.
Do NOT use 75w140 for the front differential under any circumstances. Always use the correct oil that is in your owner's manual, NOT what the dealer tells you.
Front Axle SAE 75W-90 Multipurpose Type, GL-5 Gear Lubricant. 1.66 L (3.5 pts.)
Rear Axle SAE 75W-90 Multipurpose Type, GL-5 Gear Lubricant. Limited-Slip rear axles require Mopar limited slip additive. Four (4) ounceed ( 118 mL) should be added to the gear lubricant.
Rear Axle - 9 1/4 Inch 2.32 L (4.9 pts.) with traction lock add 118 ml (4 oz) of friction modifier
Rear Axle - 8 1/4 Inch 2.1 L (4.4 pts.) with traction lock add 118 ml (4 oz) of friction modifier
Rear Axle for Trailer Towing For all trailer towing or heavy duty applications, replace the factory fill rear axle fluid with Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant SAE 75W-140.
The reason I popped in so quickly is that I JUST (last week) read the manual on that!
I'm glad you can count on your friendly neighborhood dealer to steer you in the wrong direction. Now enters in the problem. I have all ready swapped out the fluids with Amsoil 75W140, rear and unfortunately the front. With this being a full synthetic is there a major problem with it being in the front? If yes, is this something that will be fine for a week (approx 300 miles) or do I need to swap it back before it's driven?
Since it was their recommendation that led you to replace the oil, then they should be the ones to take care of it.
If they tell you it is ok, then ask them to put it in writing that they recommended the 75w140 in both differentials and should there be a problem, that Chrysler, not the dealer will not void the warranty.
While this may seem a little overboard, I have seen warranties be denied for alot less than using oil other than what is specified.
As far as driving it for a week or so, I cannot see any problem with it. If it were out of warranty, I would say leave it until you feel comfortable changing it. But if it is under warranty, then you will want to get it changed out.
Do you know if your Rear differential is limited slip?
If it is, then you need to add the limited slip differential additive or you will have problem with the rear differential.
Some times I also hear a loud squeaky noise coming from the engine compartment. It appears that the belt(s) is making the noise. The noise is more pronounced on rainy/cloudy days. The minivan has after-market belts. Can this be the reason for the noise?
The Nissan dealer says I should replace the PS pump along with Steering rack. Total cost: $1600.
I had a gas station mechanic shop inspect the van.
They recommend that I replace all three after-market belts (PS, A/C and water pump) along with PS fluid flush. The dealer told me that my PS belt is tight.
I am confused. Any feedback or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
If the steering rack isn't leaking and the pump isn't showing signs of wear (which you can check with the belt off to some extent), I would touch those right now.
And don't have a gas station do the work unless you really have a well-known and thoroughly trained person in there.
If that doesn't work, you could work through the ignition system then. Also you should check the last time you replaced the fuel filter.
After over 2 months of easy starting, this happened again last weekend, after the alarm was accidentally set off by the keyless remote. Is it possible that the alarm could be "locking" the ignition? I silenced the alarm properly, but still could not turn the key for over 30 minutes.
Other related chat discussions I've seen involve not being able to remove the key from the vehicle - but this has never been my problem.
Any help is appreciated!
Two technical questions on this Toyota-
I keep getting a check engine light...been thru the whole ball of wax...new plugs...new ($$$$)catalytic converters (thats right- 2) and now the dealership has turned the light off three times for an EGR valve........does this sound like a permanent fix? Whats the EGR valve do anyway? (Emissions I'm sure)
Second question- The vehicle has 153K miles on it and the Supercharger has been serviced with new (Toyota Synthetic) oil 3 times since I bought it with 55K...I'm about ready to get that service done again...how long can a properly maintained Supercharger expect to last??? That 3000 bill for labor & parts to replace it will make this van a yard ornament once the S/c goes out!!!!
I'm not having any issues with the S/C other than the whining noise...then again maybe thats the 10 year old in the back seat......
THANKS
Having a dirty or non-working EGR valve will cause stalling, poor fuel mileage, and poor performance - cleaning the valve itself may help (versus replacing it).
The supercharger in your van isn't running radical levels of boost, so with proper maintenance (sounds like what you're doing), it should go to 175-200k or more.
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
There is one more perhaps? related thing that happened at about same time - the speedometer does not come off 0 mph until the van is going about 25-30 mph. Friend who's a service writer said good chance the IP circuit board is cracked slightly?
Anyone have any thoughts?
BTW: I did ask the dealer if they'd do something for me since this happened just a few miles after warranty expired. Answer: fat chance.
Now with my '01 Toyota, the maintenance guide does not mention changing the brake fluid.
Even more surprisingly, three various local dealerships' maintenance recommendations, usually overkill that serve the service departments' bottom lines most of all IMO, do not mention changing the brake fluid either.
Has anything about this changed in recent years, does anyone here know?
Was/is it just a VW thing?
How often, if ever, is it really necessary, under normal conditions, to change the brake fluid?
Thanks in advance.
-ss4
Brake fluid article, by Alcan.
Al's article is by far one of the best articles I've seen. Then again, I may be biased.
The article is based on facts, not opinions, so I would pay close attention to what it says.
If you are in a high humidity area, then I would shoot for every 2-3 years. Low humidity areas may be able to go a little longer, but high heat may cause other problems.
Sopman
Steve, Host
What's the concensus on simultaneously replacing the fuel pump also? Is it worth it on saved labor charges (as the V6 is already apart?
Appreciate input. Thanks, holiday's best....ez