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No vibration, no poor tracking, etc. However, I do have a persisting rattle in the drivers door that "can't be reproduced". Yeah, sure.
Not a bad truck, but it is starting to squeak, groan & rattle more than I like, and I don't drive it hard.
I had an opportunity to drive the F150, Tundra & Titan (& Chevy & Dodge) back-to-back about 6 months ago a part of a consumer survey. The Titan came up #1 in my book, with the Tundra waaayy back on my list. The Tundra just felt dated & slow. Slower than any of the others. The F150 was my #2 pick, but the Titan was really a hot rod, with a great ride and a comfortable interior. Affordable too. Good luck with whatever new truck you decide on. You need some.
Also, how common is it to get vastly different wear between the driver and passenger side pads? My passenger side pads were not in that bad of shape, while my driver side pads were almost completely gone. Is it simply because I drive alone most of the time and there is more weight on the driver side?
I picked up a ’92 Ranger, 4L , manual, 2WD a couple of years ago and have been going thru it clearing up the problems (mechanic’s daughter ;-) ) but one problem remains that has baffled the best automotive minds I have access to.
Under very specific driving conditions, I get a metallic tapping sound from the engine compartment. The sound is very similar to what you get if you shake a PCV valve very fast and hard or like the sound of an old mechanical tappet that’s out of adjustment.
These are the conditions:
1. You are cruising at 95 to 105 Km/Hr (58 – 65 mph) on the highway and have been at that speed for at least 5 minutes.
2. The outside air temperature is between 18 and 25 degrees Celsius (65 - 77° F).
3. The wind is a quartering headwind but never a strong wind.
The tapping has never occurred under any other conditions!
The “tapping” has the following characteristics:
1. Pressing the throttle slightly IMMEDIATELY causes the tapping to become MUCH louder.
2. Backing off the throttle IMMEDIATELY causes the tapping to become softer.
3. If speed is reduced (<90 KPH/55 mph), the tapping goes away.
4. After driving at reduced speed (<90 KPH/55 mph) for a few minutes, I can often accelerate back to 100 KPH/62 mph without the tapping recurring. Sometimes I have to repeat the reduced speed a few times before the tapping stays away.
5. The speed (rate) of the tapping doesn’t seem to be related to engine speed (seems to be about 1/4 of the RPM) but the loudness is DIRECTLY related to throttle setting
I have tried the following:
1. On one trip, I allowed it to knock away until the check engine light came on. When I later downloaded the codes, the only code present was about idle speed!
2. Thinking the problem had something to do with manifold vacuum levels, I disconnected everything that was unnecessary - no change.
3. I removed the PCV valve (because it was the only thing I could think of that might sound that way) - no change
4. I tried a tank of 91 Octane - no change
5. I inspected the induction system for anything loose that might rattle - nothing found.
6. I changed the air filter (to change the induction characteristics) - no change.
The Ranger uses a multi-coil ignition, so there is no distributor or vacuum advance.
I have consulted the best Ford minds in the area and all my mechanically inclined friends and this has everyone puzzled!
The Ranger is a nice riding truck with lots of jam and was bought as my long-trip vehicle but I won’t really trust it until I know the source of this tapping, so it either gets fixed or SOLD!
GURRRR!!!
I would try gently cleaning the MAF sensor (between the air cleaner and upper intake) with some electrical parts cleaner. Also consider pulling the O2 sensors and giving them a visual inspection, looking for severe contamination.
Also try spraying around the upper and lower intake gaskets with some soapy water while idling, if the idle speed fluctuates or you see soap bubbles forming around the gaskets then you have an intake leak. This was a common problem on that 4.0 engine, revised upper and lower gaskets will solve that problem. Beyond this you'll have to take it to a dealer who can monitor fuel trims with the big-bucks diag equipment. Good luck.
Don't know what the mileage is - haven't checked it - but I am now hearing from others who found the MAS to be the source of identical problems.
I have some electronic parts cleaner on hand and will clean the MAS first because it's easy to get at ;-)
I've heard lots of pining before but never as strange as this! Of course, when you get computers involved, strange thaings happen.
-Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts. Loose bolts is probably your problem.
As wijoco said, both of these are usual, known problem areas to cause pinging on the 4L. My intake bolts were loose on my 94 model 4L. As I understand, this allows additional air into the fuel mixture, leaning it out, and causing the pinging. You will need a 1/4 inch socket with a flex extension. Some of the bolts will still be tough to get to.
Speaking of Lemons, growing up, we had a 78 "Dodge"(no nasty grams please, just making an observation) van, with 5.2l V8 and 4 on the floor manual. No power steering or anything else except the go pedal. Lasted 19.5 years, only replaced clutch and installed bigger carb. Went nearly 300K miles, and survived 3 teenage boys learning to drive. Dad did all maintenance and servicing himself. Just an observation, Domestics can be good vehicles.
-Go to ebay, under autos, literature, manuals. There is a guy always selling the factory manuals for Ford Truck, etc on CD. It is for something like $8.95 plus $2 shipping. I've bought one - it looks like it is a complete factory manual. Buying the complete manual is easier than me trying to copy it into this discussion area.....
Here are the main components of speed control:
-Servo. This is the vacumn unit that pulls the throttle. It has electrical connectors to it also. Check electric and vacumn connectors.
-Speed sensor. I think this is on the end of the speedometer cable where it goes into the transmission. It has an electrical connector you should check.
-Switches, etc. Those on the steering wheel and the brake light switch on the brake. If a manual transmission, there is a switch on the clutch also. Check the brake/clutch switches. Those in the steering wheel would be tougher.
-Speed Control Amplifer. This is a 'box', the brain of the speed control. (I think the main 'computer' controls some of the cruise control also.) This amplifer, I think (not sure about this) is found behind the folding jump seat in the rear of your extended cab. I think it is on the passenger side - in with the jack.
You could check the electrical connectors on all the above components that your can easily reach, such as the servo, speedometer cable, amplifier, and brake/clutch switches. Maybe something is knocked loose or dirty/wet.
Othere than this, buy the CD and buy a good multimeter and start reading the CD and the tests. One thing, for some reason, the speed control is in the 'Fuel' section of the manual, not the electronics????????
However, the back top brake light is not functioning.....not because the bulb is burned out, it still works. But because the plastic clip broke and it is just hanging there, but it works.
We also hear the pinging noise, but figure it is nothing major, just the nature of the beast.
FYI- our baby is the Cayman Green model. Where do they come up with the names of colors?
Greetings all.
There does seem to be some noise problems with the split driveshaft. I think for the trucks with the problem, if you push enough, Ford will replace the driveshaft with an aluimum (SP) one that is a 'cure'.
Buy the Ranger. Enjoy several thousand dollars left in your pocket over the Toyota. And, you get a nicer looking truck.
At least lift the wheel off the ground and press on the top and the bottom to see if the tire moves in a way that it shouldn't. Try it with both front tires. I would be surprised to find out if it was the passenger front as in the same with mine. I would then wonder who was working on the line at the plant tightening that bolt.
I've also have a problem of not being able to idle when it is first started each day, especially if the A/C is on.
When that happens, I pop the hood, take a hammer or similar tool and tap lightly on the Idle Air Control Valve. It will either die or idle right up. If it dies, the next start idles right up. This lasts for 2 to 3 days, then I have to get the hammer back out. But, at least it will no longer die sitting at a stop light and refuse to start again.
I hope that helps.
Just clean up the carbon in the valve portion, and clean the passage in the intake. Be careful removing and not damage the gasket.
This should help idle problems. A new on is about $60 at part stores.
Can anyone out there give me some "heads up" about the Ford/Mazda 2.3l engine with auto. tranny? Specifically, how reliable is it's engine and tranny compared to the Toyota Tacoma 2.4l w/auto. tranny?
From what I read on the Edmund's used car post, there seems to be problems with the Ford/Mazda tranny. Is this true? I'm referring to the "new" 2.3l Mazda built engine. Who makes the auto. tranny that goes into this truck? Thanks to you all for your replies! Take care.
How well will 4.0 auto Ranger hold up to regular towing of +/- 2000# to ~3500#. Most days closer to 2000 than 3500. (for small lawn-care business)
Dusty
I have been using a '91 K1500 5sp (rated to tow up to ~3800# I think)with no serious problems - other than having to use low 4wd to back up steep driveways with a trailer.
Please explain. Most sites rate auto. trans. for higher tow weights.
And yes, look at the specs. The automatic has a much higher towing ratings.
I got my 94 Ranger from someone going from a 2,000 lb trailer to a larger one. He sold the Ranger to buy a F150 for the bigger trailer.
Do you think it would stand up to this kind of workload, or do I need to go with F150 or C1500?
Just make sure you stay on top of Transmission fluid changes, and you should get good reliable service from the Ranger.
I am mechanically illiterate. Can you be a little more explicit about what "properly equipt" means?
Will stock truck & good trailer hitch do the job, or would I have to consider transmission cooler & other measures?
Were you pulling that 5000+ on relatively flat roads, or over hills & through hollers?
Thanks to all for the input.
* If you have electric brakes on the trailer, you will probably have to get the 7-prong connecter installed.
Hope this helps, maybe someone else will chime in and be of more help.
Actually, I doubt you will get much of either one.
It's a truck, basically a brick on wheels, so you will not get economy.
It's a 2.9L V6 and is never going to be fast.
You're also going to miss the full-size bed of the Chevy. I use to do lawn care and tooled around in a 20-year old F-100. Had a few of them, acutally. I could haul 2 yards of mulch in the bed and tow all my equipent on the trailer. You may miss the space with the Ranger.
Now, if you are interested in durability, I think full-size Dodge, Ford, and GM models will give you overall better service than the Ranger.
As far as towing goes, you've not mentioned the Dakota. Maybe you have a anti-Dodge bias, but with an available V8 engine the Dakota is superior to both the S-10 and Ranger. In fact, the new Dakota can be rated to just over 7000 lbs., properly equiped, making it an excellent competitor for the full-size trucks.
Regards,
Dusty
Also I saw references to towing. The ball is attached to the bumper. Is this good or bad? Thanks in advance.
Things that have gone wrong and go wrong on a lot of them:
-Radius arm bushings. The truck will creak and groan over bumps or uneven pavement. These are cheap to repair, but mechanic has to know how to get them out. It's easy if you know how.
-Definitely tighten the 'lower intake manifold bolts'. These will loosen, allow air into the intake, mess up the fuel mixture which causes 'pinging'. Some of these bolts are tough to get to, but they can all be tightened without removing anything and this definitely should be done.
-Remove and clean the MAS (mass air sensor). This and the above should stop pinging, even on 87octane.
-Remove and clean the IAC (idle air control). Don't get carb cleaner into electrical portion. A dirty one can cause low or high idle or surging at idle.
-It has 2 wheel (rear) ABS. Keep the brake fluid resevour (sp) full. When the level goes down, as the brakes wear, the ABS light will come on. Topping off the brake fluid cures this.
Other major things I've done, which I consider general maintenance:
-Plugs and wires at about 55,000 miles. I could hear a misfire on the radio.
-Radiator leaked about 75,000 miles. Cost $150 for an online replacement.
-Replaced shocks at about 70,000 miles, with cheap Monroe Gasmatic. I think the orginial shocks I removed were actually about as good as these replacements.
-Transmission fluid and filter. If you don't have a detailed maintenance history, definitely do this. I would not 'flush' the tranny, this might break things loose and cause trouble. Just drop the pan and replace filter and the fluid lost.
-The brake light switch has failed 3 times in 7 years?????????? When it goes out, your cruse control will not 'release' when you push on the brake. Just turn it off if this happens. And replace the brake lite switch.
-I replaced front disk rotors(with cheap China made ones), pads, and seals at about 60,000. They were warped. The rear shoes still original ones, will go another 10,000 at least.
-Replaced 2 of the 4 speakers. The $90 Jenson 9x6's replacements do not sound as good as the remaining 2 original ones, and were obviously lighter weight magnets. (I have the 'Premium' radio.)
My truck is the STX, top-of-the-line model. I love it. It's a great truck. I can afford a new one, but there really isn't enough difference in a 2004 model, with my 1994 having a couple of features not found on the new ones, for me to have a real reason to buy a new one.
If I mix one quart of 0W-20 and one quart of 0W-40, will get two quarts of 0W-30??
Will appreciate any and all advice.
What's wrong with the recommended 10w30, in a non-synthetic? If you want to be very conservative, change it, with filter, every 3,000 miles or 6 months. This should be good for 200,000 miles on that motor. If something happens, the oil will not be the problem.
I thought could have been in an accident, but a carfax report and the report the dealer did come up clean. So I have to take it back tomorrow to have them take it to the body shop to see if the frame is bent...still thinking accident...but the other thought from reading the manual is that someone threw the truck into 4x4 low while the truck was moving...this is my theory if it was not in an accident...just curious if anyone else has ran into this problem or if anyone has some ideas on it?
Thanks,
I have been getting between 160-170mpg. Is this normal for these?? If I remember correctly I was getting a lot better milage before I did the tune up (spark plugs, wires, cap and roter, air filter, fuel filter) The spark plugs where gapped correctly. I have a tonneau cover on the bed (soft, not hard), I would think that would help the milage. Does anyone know about what milage the oxygen sensor goes out, or know of a way to test it, that is my only other guess as to why the milage is so bad, any ideas??
Also it seems to be shifting quite hard between 1st and 2nd (auto), is there anything I can do?? I have changed the filter, and I put Lucas stabilizer in it, but it made no difference.
Any help would be greatly apreciated.
PPB
Even after i get the truck back I will need to have someone follow me to see if it is truely fixed or not at all...thanks for the advice.