Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Or... are you saying you take the dealerships doc fee into consideration making your best out the door price with dealerships?. in this case your putting the whole deal together with a certain target price in mind.
Please explain: if doc fee's come into play with otd pricing.. How are you countering them. Dealers wont remove charge..
I just want to understand how you buy vehicles.. and how your countering doc charges.......................Thanks
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks to all who share their experiences/insights here.
Wanted to weigh in with 1st post to say discussions from Brian and some others about various dealer fees are helpful & relevant.
Part of the forum's title is Prices Paid, so that doesn't seem limited only to invoice+destination as fxguy seems to be implying. Dealer fees for documentation, processing, "preparation", etc. that can vary among dealers or states are a component of total prices buyers have to pay out-the-door.
If anybody feels it confuses anything, I suppose they're free to disregard posts that mention fees as part of OTD prices. But I share Brian's view that it's as relevant as any other money within a deal.
(Hopefully I haven't misinterpreted fxguy's viewpoint. Looked to me as though he was suggesting that others shouldn't discuss in here a factor I think is useful for people who want to learn about it and keep it in mind.)
You need to be more clear. Was the car ever registered to an owner? Did the deal immediately fall apart and got reversed?
If the deal simply unwound, it's like it never happened. You WILL pay the destination charge because the first "buyer" never did.
If the car was registered, then it's sold to you as a USED car and you won't pay the destination fee.
How many miles are on the car?
Now, if you are thinking you are going to somehow get some kind of a killer, ridiculous price on this slightly used car, I can tell you this won't happen.
We used to discount manager's demos with less than 5000 miles. These were sold as new. I can tell you, we never lost money on them nor did we on any other new car we sold.
It's all perception. Someone else will snap up that car thinking that they took advantage of someone else's misfortune.
Ok guys - thanks for listening.
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I would think that would end up being a bargain compared to a new Honda, same model and options.
Seeing doc fees mentioned quite a bit. NO STATE requires a dealership charge a doc fee. Yes, there are fees to register, license your vehicle and to get plates. But, filing the paperwork for those items is something the dealership chooses to charge for.
Personally, I figure up my offer, including taxes, registration and license fees (varies by state and municipality, but easy enough to find) and make one offfer..."all in". I explain my offer to the dealer. If we get to the F&I office and they add in doc fees. I walk. My offers are literally..."ALL IN"!
It's up to the dealer how they divy up my offer into their different fee and pricing categoires. I don't really care how they do it, as long as the final, all in number is equal to my offer.
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Bill
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Are you in Souhtern California by any chance?
We tried to buy the Accord at the dealer closest to my home. The dealer had a ton of Accords available and I made it clear that I was educated on the current prices of the Accord and my trade-in. I told them if you sell me the car for my numbers provided I'll buy on the spot. The dealer worked up the paper work and wanted me to pay $27,500 with leather seats, tinted windows and all weather floor mats installed. I told them that they were $3,000 over what I was willing to pay and what people were getting on the message boards. They didn't care and let me walk out without even counter offering. I've never had this happen before and I was upfront and polite with them.
I then emailed two other dealers and both those dealers were willing to work with me on the price. I told them they had to be at $24,500 with leather seats, tinted windows and all weather floor mats installed. Both dealers would do the deal and I got my car on Labor Day. I asked the dealer who sold me the car why the other dealer would not sell me the car at this price. He stated that his dealership needed to sell 20 cars before the end of the month and the other dealer probably sold all the cars they needed to sell already. He stated that why sell you the car when someone else would be willing to buy it for more. He also told me that walking into a dealer and not dealing with the internet sales manager makes a big difference in negotiating.
Thanks, Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Are you able to send me a private message? I can text you all the info you need and where to buy. I can also call 2 individuals from Palmdale and Van Nuys to hook it up.
The stores HAVE to make a profit, like ANY retail establishment and this is why they do this.
No free lunch out there.
I would email all the dealers in your area because they all operate differently and have different standards. The St Louis area had 7 dealerships and the ones willing to deal were located in a real wealthy area and a lower income area. The biggest dealers that are located in the middle class areas were not in a hurry to sell.
2013 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L
$300 per month, 2075 (includes 1st month) due at signing plus DMV fees. I will be checking other places.
Car valued at 25, 500
Your mileage may vary - but, it's the overall deal we need to focus on, not just one line item.
Different points of view are always welcome, but let's not monopolize the discussion.
Seems to me that good prices are out there for both 2013 & 2014 Accords based on recent posts. Keep those stories coming!
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!
MODERATOR
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
I bought a new Ex-L 4 cylinder pearl white accord with leather (no navi) today....Not sure if I got a good deal?
Honda dealership is a no haggle dealership, meaning a fixed price only. They had the pearl white sedan EX-L I've been wanting 'on sale' for 25,882.00 + 699.00 dealer fee.
Did I do okay or not. I'm in Fl. Any thoughts. Thank you.
It was such a dream to own I ONLY wanted another Accord.
Thank you so much for saying I did okay! I know the 699.00 dealer price was a little high.
The only 'extra' I bought was the black mat for the trunk. It just made sense to me.
I put 11,000.00 down, and took the .9 36 month finance option. Seemed like a good idea.
This dealership does NOT deal, so I wondered if I did okay! Thank you so much.
What dealer did you buy from? Which color did you get? Congrats!
Could've got for another $1,000.00 less but it's all good. Did you add extended warranty or any accessories/options?
Any mods you plan to do in the near future?
It's leather, has the adjustable seats, steering wheel, heated seats...What exactly does sports trim include.
I just liked the car. It was that simple.
I tried driving a hybrid Camry and it felt and looked like driving a refrigerator. That was my only research.
Honestly, what exactly is meant by sports trim. Just Googled it, and I'm not too clear.
Still sincerely, you really made my day! Am so happy with the white pearl color, the leather, and it's so much roomier than my old Accord.
Bought NO extra warranties. Considered the 'wheel' one, because I've had an incident or two, but love the beep beep beep when you get too close to 'something'.
I should have done this BEFORE buying, but was just 'ready',
BTW, dealership gives 5 days to return the car if you feel you made a mistake or didn't get a good price, etc...Thought that was cool!
Thanks again Sparkndutch!
LX
Sport
EX
EX-L
EX-L w/Navi
EX-L V6
EX-L V6 w/Navi
Touring
I like the EX-L a lot, but got a great deal for my Sport and couldn't turn it down. It was pretty low that I'm sure the General Managers were hating me for such a disgusting deal lol
Congrats on your new Accord btw! Glad to hear I was one of many new owners this week alone!
I laughed. No, I don't.
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2013-honda-accord-sport-sedan-manual-long-te- rm-test-review
What did you pay for that warranty?
My father was a judge and a lawyer. Very wise. He had a saying. "Insurance is betting against yourself' That never left me. So I never buy ANY extended warranty.
I LOVE leather in a car. Important to me. Will miss my V6 on the interstate but the 2013 Accord 'feels' big and fairly heavy. Not BMW, Mercedes heavy, but it's worthy. NOT like a toyota.
Back to your warranty....What did that cost you?
I dont think it's too heavy, I have about 150 miles now and 100 of them were freeway driving and I was happy to be speeding and zipping my way around other cars. Nice to have no plates as people stare and admire my car haha
I purchased the 2013, EX-L, 4cyl and paid $985 (down from $1770! )for 7yr/80k/$100 ded. Asked the F&I guy specifically, "I have up to 6k miles to make a decision to get the new warranty". He said no. I purchased it based on that info.
Days later realized I could have purchased it for much cheaper ($570) at http://hyannishondacare.com/plans.php Problem was I lost on that low price because I had already purchased the warranty If I wanted to purchase from Hyannis I had to pay $165 extra since it was not the first warranty purchase (this is a honda rule).
So I knew I was going to cancel with the original dealer.
Saw the F&I guy yesterday, he knew I was coming in to cancel because it was too expensive. First thing he says is "$985 is too much?" like somehow he gave me some super great deal. I take out my internet quote. But I also said, the price is one thing, but really what I'm upset about is that I asked specifically about having 6k miles to purchase the warranty as a "New warranty" and he said No...and that misinformation made me buy it. He thanked me for schooling him as he did not know that. I gave him the benefit of the doubt and said everyone mispeaks, I just made a decision based on that.
So he ended up matching the internet price. I said ok, but I was still upset at being misled. I asked for some free accessories but got 2 oil changes. So net, I paid less than $500 for the warranty.
I told him we are all good. They will get 5's on the survey And I can still recommend them.
Lessons learned:
1. Know BEFORE you buy (price of car, warranty, if you even want the warranty..lots of posts about pros and cons, etc)
2. If you overpaid for the warranty, there are some things you can do to mitigate the financial mistake
3 I can be bought for free oil changes
See my post #31109 for what happened to me and what I did to recover from my mistake of overpaying for the warranty.
I must say I really like the trunk tray. Went to the store bought a few items, placed them in the trunk and nothing was moving around and was afraid the pizza I bought was going to spill greasy oil all over the place and was nicely secured in its corner. (Was by myself and didn't want the interior to smell of food)
The Splash Guards (all 4 were installed) was something I was never considering adding but let me tell you... I'm so freaking glad it came with it! Washed and waxed my car yesterday and noticed that the guards had some nasty little rocks and dirt and I was surprised since I've only driven 155 miles now and 100 of them were freeway here in Los Angeles, was easy to wash off and good thing the rocks/dirt didn't do any damage to my paint, so this is a must get it!
The wheels locks are pretty self explained and the film is a neat thing incase I ever hit the door with any object but I'm usually careful when opening my doors but have had times I have ding something and would freak out if scratched my door on my civic lol (which is my daily drive with 202,500 miles)
Oh wait you already purchased it right? =(
Joe and Jim are brothers living together in Manhattan. They each want their own 2014 Honda Accord and they decide to have a contest on who can get the best deal for the car which happens to have an invoice price including destination of $25,000, the loser has to do the dishes for a month. They have friends all throughout the U.S. and they tell their friends if they pick up the car for them and drive it to Manhattan and pay for the gas, they can stay for free in their spare bedroom while in NY. Meanwhile, their mother is so happy they decided on a dependable Accord, she says she will pay the sales tax and TTL. Therefore, the only thing that matters is what they pay the dealer. They set a 5:00 deadline to find and negotiate their deals.
Joe finds a deal for $1,000 under invoice. Jim finds one for $575 under invoice. They both post the results in the Prices Paid forum at 5:01 pm.
A minute late, Joe sees a post by fxguy congratulating him on getting $1,000 under invoice on a 2014. After all, he recently congratulated someone for getting $700+ off. No one congratulates Jim.
Someone then posts that they would like to see all the details of the deals. Joe posts that he is paying $24,000 for the car and has a doc fee of $800. Jim posts that he is paying $24,425 for the car but his doc fee is only $75. After seeing that Jim paid the dealer $500 under invoice, Brian writes a congratulatory post to Jim on getting $500 under invoice on a 2014 at this time of year.
Would you rather pay the dealer $24,800 ($24,000 + $800) and get an attaboy from fxguy or pay $24,500 ($24,425 + $75) and get an attaboy from Brian?
Bottom line:
X(sales price) + Y(doc fees) = Z(Cash Paid).
You want to minimize Z, that’s the only objective. Assuming the dealers are selling similar numbers of cars, their price to acquire the car is the same and they can afford to sell the cars at the same price. Why should a dealer in a state with typically higher doc fees deserve to make more when selling a car?
If I was a dealer, I would prefer to be in a high doc fee location. Why? Because I can always lower the sales price to make a deal with a savvy buyer who is shopping based on total paid to the dealer while for those like fxguy, I can make a deal on what looks like a good price on the car and then collect an additional large doc fee for additional profit.
Actually, I bet fxguy is a smart guy and that over the years fxguy has been negotiating based on total price but has done a poor job articulating what he is actually doing.