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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,024
    edited October 2013
    Yes.... Hit 3 or 4 dealerships for a test drive and narrow down what cars you may want. Try to negotiate at each dealership with pricing first.. If you feel price is to high do as i recommended the next day or couple later with a follow up phone / email. Some dealership will be up front with price and some will play games.... Weed out those dealerships. Same concept applies Supply and demand will determine a good price or a take it or leave it price from dealerships. Honda Accord is a very good resale vehicle.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • how much below MSRP and how much below Invoice (before TTL) is considered to be a killer deal on 2013 Accords?

    I am not picky about color, so I am flexible on that.

    Thanks!
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,024
    edited October 2013
    2k below invoice is a killer deal. You should be getting at least 1500 to 1700 below invoice plus taxes at this time anyway.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    If you are able to locate a 2013 EX, i would aim for 1500-2000 below invoice (2013 invoice is about 200 less than the 2014 prices I gave you). The 2013s still have 1.9% for 60 months and dealers might still have $500 dealer cash incentive if you finance with Honda. If you can't get at least 1500 below invoice on a 2013, you might as well go for the 2014, although the deals on those aren't as sweet yet.

    Bill
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    What is a good price for a 2014 EXL before TTL......can I expect $25,500 area on the lower end?

    So basically now the world has moved on and "invoice" numbers aren't real anymore since generally you can sell at $500-1500 BELOW invoice????

    Haven't bought a car in almost 4 years and I know the internet continues to pressure changes....
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Maybe Brian can chime in but invoice on a 2014 EXL CVT is around 26,600 and recent pricing has been around 500 below invoice. We might see deals get better in Dec.

    Bill G
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    So this would be around 26K, but that would be before $500 off financing cash back (if they gave that to me)

    How much better do you think it gets if I wait till Thanksgiving time or early December? I guess I'm not in a huge rush, but I also don't want to keep waiting months and months just to save $100.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,024
    Agreed. If you could hold out til end of Dec you may be able to get a better deal than right now on a 2014 which a good price seems to be at 500 below dealers invoice. Supply and demand and your area will be factors in getting a lower price. You would need to get 10 to 15 dealerships involved to see who is willing to sell at that price.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • cl171cl171 Posts: 6
    email me at sn1617@gmail.com - I'll show you a clip of my sales invoice.

    contact gary @ boch
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    edited October 2013
    Hi Brian - I went back to read some of your suggested posts but I'm still not clear as to your recommended strategy. I get the part about trying to buy in the last few days of the month - that was clear.

    When I bought my Odyssey in 2010, I called numerous Honda dealers here in Chicago, then worked those that seemed most aggressive to find a low price at which others just said No. I felt I got a great price vs invoice (although now I see that invoice these days is probably inflated) and also vs other prices being posted on this board. I called it the Hogan Method.

    Can you clarify something in the "Brian Method"? AM I SUPPOSED TO APPROACH THESE DEALERS WITH A NUMBER MYSELF FIRST? That isn't what I did on the Odyssey, well not at first at least. I found the couple lowest quotes, then went back to those that were higher and "stretched them" to see if they would leapfrog, by throwing out a LOWER number than my lowest current bid. I'd play naive like "hey Dealer 5, you said your lowest was $31,000, and I just wanted to tell you that I have another verbal offer at $30,650 and I'm gonna head over there this afternoon. Hopefully they don't pull some trick, but otherwise I'll be buying the car for that price it looks like"

    My thought was that it would be like catnip if a dealer actually COULD BEAT the 30,650 then it would be in his best interest to jump right there and say "don't go to that other dealer....if you come to me I'll beat that offer" since it would appear to him that this was his last chance because in 3 hours I'd have signed papers at a competitor. The gray area was my stretching the truth by a few hundred dollars below the lowest bid I had received on round one. Lie? I guess yes. But I felt I had nothing to lose since I still had the lowest bid as my backstop, so if I tested the waters of some of the higher dealers to see if any react to beat that price, then I'd know I hadn't found bottom yet.

    So basically my strategy was to ASK FOR QUOTES first, lay them out, see what the lowest was and if there was any clustering, set aside the one or two lowest dealers (don't dick around with them at this point since you were most likely to need them) and go back to the others with the "thanks for your time, just wanted to let you know I found the following price which I'm planning to buy, and I guess I'll catch you in 5 years when I buy my next car...."

    So then what is the BRIAN METHOD? Do you go into the sales managers/internet sales and just throw out a NUMBER yourself and say "if you can hit it, I will buy right now?" If so, I assume you are using a number that is sufficiently low so that you don't expect any will actually hit it? (but not SO low as to make it look like you have no idea what you're talking about). So if my EX-L car is 26,650 invoice, and we "think" that they are selling for 500 below invoice today, would I go in saying I will buy today for $25,500 if they can hit it? Or 25,000? Or 26,000?

    I'm trying to think of the difference between the Brian Method and the Hogan Method so I can make a change if necessary. The Brian Method (again if I understand it) is to lead them with a number just low enough to draw them to a low bid, but not so low as to lose cred and not so high that you are leaving money on the table. The Hogan Method makes them believe that I am indeed about to buy from another dealer, meaning A) I am indeed a REAL BUYER TODAY and B) some other dealer actually gave me that number, and I'm not just making it up (although I guess I am).

    I guess both methods may be very similar actually. Just depends if you take a first round of getting their quotes to see who is an aggressive dealer, or whether you throw down a number and see if anyone will hit it. Going in with your own number requires you to have a view as to the actual selling prices in your area, which could be harder to know unless you solicited the quotes first right? (unless you can really get enough good info through this site about recent EXL sales for example)

    So sorry for the long post but can you just quickly confirm the key points of the Brian Method so I know how to use it? Thanks
  • Good choice! I love this car. IMO, you just cannot go wrong with the 9th generation Accord. Happy shopping.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,024
    edited October 2013
    i enjoyed your detailed post. your hogan method will work very good for you. Sometimes you need to get quotes to get the ball rolling. How you described how you buy is very similar to mine. i have been buying cars for many years and tried every buying option on getting the lowest possible price. Depending on the time on the year is how i figure out pricing and come up with a target price. target price is the key to getting the lowest price. When i buy a new vehicle for myself it is 90% of the time bought before that year starts. example 2012 bmw x-5 ... bought nov,2011. I arrive at a target price, target many dealerships and make my calls and emails. this applies to any model i'm buying.

    Invoice price minus dealer hold-back minus dealerships doc fee's minus any dealer incentives and rebates. This is how i arrive at a target price.

    As you get deeper in that buying year you will notice prices getting lower than this number. dealer incentives and rebates from the company contributes to this.

    I have bought close to a thousand vehicles for myself, family and friends taking so called dealers holdback money, dealers doc fee plus hundreds less than that number. Is Invoice price a true number? i doubt it

    So what is a realistic target number in Oct for a 2014 model?

    Invoice price minus dealerships doc fee charge.

    my target price watching this board for a 2014 would be starting at
    Invoice price minus dealer hold-back, minus dealer doc fee and working my best deal going back towards dealer invoice. This price would be hard to get by emailing dealerships only. dealing directly with each dealerships internet manager is how i close my deals quickly.

    supply and demand and your area contribute to pricing.
    reading thru these boards help you determine pricing.
    i pit one dealer against the next at the end. i let certain dealerships know who ther competition is and price. dealers know who sells cars and who dont. Thats why at crunch time they will ask you. Certain years and models are harder than other years. last yr was hard for a early 2013 accord buyer. This year prices have seem to loosen up for the 2014 model.

    Negotiation skill/ knowledge of area pricing/ how and when to buy is the key to my success. Supply at any dealership is when you strike and can make a great deal.. Find those dealerships.

    By having a target price helps you cut thru all that dealership nonsense and back and forth with pricing. its direct and you are in control of the negotiations. If you asking dealerships for his best prices you will never get prices like i'm getting or what your seeing in this forum. I will challenge every dealership for price.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Thanks Brian. A couple more questions. Do we know for sure what is the dealer holdback percentage on the Accords? Also why do you say you subtract dealer doc fee from the invoice price? I assume the invoice price listed everywhere (in the case of an EXL specifically, 26650) is before any doc fees are added by the dealer later in the process. Do you not pay ANY doc fees in your deals?

    And lastly when you do this do you tell dealers I will buy right now at X or do you tell them I am looking to buy a car, contacting numerous dealers of which you are one, and in my mind the pricing should be around X.....there is a subtle difference and I'd think the latter is better ?

    Oh one other thing,a few months back you posted a list of dealers in Chicago. Are those you've had best luck at personally? My closest is O'hare honda but they generally seem to stink. Last time I got a good deal from Honda of Lisle but I hadn't tried many of the names on your list. Or do you just use those further out dealers to try to anchor a lowest price and then get a closer one to match?
  • sunshine_boysunshine_boy Posts: 10
    edited October 2013
    Thanks Bill!

    Here's what I see on Consumer Reports

    2013 Accord EX-L : MSRP ($27,995) Dealer Invoice ($26,399) Holdbacks ($560) CR Bottom Line Price ($25,839)
    2013 Accord EX : MSRP ($25,405) Dealer Invoice ($24,037) Holdbacks ($508) CR Bottom Line Price ($23,529)

    I researched recently that I can get Altima 2.5 SL (with Navigation) in Dallas, TX at 25K (+TTL). Is it possible to get 2013 Accord EX-L
    at 25K (+TTL) ? I know you mentioned to aim for 1500 to 2000 below invoice, but I don't see any incentive offered by Honda on CR website.
    So I am not sure if 1500 to 2000 is still possible to get this vehicle.

    So basically if I pick either EX or EX-L (will decide by tonight after test drive), what number should I throw at dealer if they force to sell the vehicle on a same day?

    Please share your insight on this.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,024
    edited October 2013
    Hogan

    Dealer hold back on all honda models = 2% of base msrp
    Base price on the 2014 exl model = 25860. 2% would be $ 517 in holdback money. You cant add destination charge of 790 into that number its not part of msrp.
    As far as doc fee's.... if i cant get dealer to remove his doc fee charge i simply add it into my asking price making doc fee a wash on the bill of sale at the end of transaction,

    Most dealerships i post on this web site i have purchased from them or had some involvement with them and found them upfront or willing to deal with me.

    I could narrow my search down to 3 dealers this month A, B , and C . Buy from dealer A. Next month when looking to buy again dealer A wont meet my price dealer C will or another dealership might have better pricing. To me when you have many dealerships to choose from they are all the same. Best price gets my business. I service my vehicle when under warranty at the closest honda dealership to my house either in New york or Myrtle beach.

    You start your buying process after your test drives and research is done. You make sure you have outside finance in place making every dealer match or beat your best rate. I start my buying process the 2nd to last day or last day of any month.... If your not as skilled as some of us you may want to start near the end of the last week calling /emailing dealerships internet managers. If your more comfortable going dealer to dealer use the same tips and advice while in each dealership. Just prepare yourself for alot of nonsense in most dealerships.

    I cant recall the chicago post and i'm sure i have a few high volume dealerships on that list. try them all.

    Target price below .......... this does not mean you could get entire number price but its your starting point to find out what your area pricing is. After 20 or more dealerships in your area are contacted you have a good idea where your best deal will lie.

    2014 EXL w/ Dest charge=...................26,650
    minus hold back...............................- 517
    minus dealers doc fee........................-
    minus any rebates/ incentives.............--
    total........................................._________________

    Above number is your starting target price to buy on that day you start your buying process.. Work up back to invoice price making your best deal at months end if you cant get your target price. Always be in control of your negotiations.

    Your not always going to get the best prices you see posted in these forums. Supply and demand and area play a big part in this.. By buying any vehicle this way you will find out what your area pricing is . You will get the best possible price and deal and there is nobody that could of gotten you a better deal. This is how you buy a car.

    Read thur some of Bluecars back posts he did very well for himself buying by phone / emailing dealerships before making his deal.

    Let us know how you make out.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • jatanjatan Posts: 92
    edited October 2013
    Good thing with IL is that the doc fee is fixed by the state so tax/title/license/doc are the same at all IL dealers (I think its around $165 right now). Doc fee is just profit for the dealer so you take that into consideration when making an offer (you still have to pay it)

    Doc fees may be variable in some states so dealer A might sell you a car at $20000 and add a $100 doc fee, but dealer B a few miles away might sell you a car at $19800 (which seems like a better deal) and then hit you with a $600 doc fee -- if you wanted to pay $20000 for the car then you would offer $19900 to dealer A and $19400 to dealer B or $19835 in IL for the car with destination fee plus tax/title/plates/doc (or $20000 with dest/doc fee plus tax/title/plates)

    If you alrdy know a price that you're happy with paying then contact a bunch of dealers using their website and tell them the exact model/trim/trans/accessories you want and what price you'll pay with the dest fee (or dest & doc fee if variable): "I'm looking to buy a 2013 Accord blah blah blah with no accessories and I'm willing to pay $$$ with dest fee (or dest & doc fee) included plus tax/title/license(/doc). Let me know if you can make this deal happen"

    If you don't have a price and want to see what's the lowest in your area then contact them with: "I'm looking to buy a 2013 Accord blah blah blah with no accessories. What's your best price with the dest fee (or dest & doc fee) included?" See which dealer gives you the best price and ask if they can lower it further. Reply back to other dealers and see if they'll beat the price: "The lowest price I have from another dealer is $$$, are you able to beat that price?"

    You can ask them what promos/incentives are included in that price and you can also ask if flex cash is available if you plan on financing with Honda

    I bought a new Civic a few years ago and contacted about a dozen Chicago area dealers using their websites -- I asked for their best price with dest fee included for the exact model/trim/trans I wanted with no accessories added on (didn't bother mentioning doc fee since its fixed). About half of them got back to me with a price and Carrs Honda gave me the lowest upfront price at that time (2nd lowest was Elmhurst dealer but $1000 higher). I knew no dealer would be able to beat that price so I bought it from them the next day along with the 0.9% financing that Honda was running at the time. Got the deal mid-month since they had not sold another Civic in over a week so they gave me a rock bottom price to get their sales number up
  • hogan773hogan773 Posts: 255
    Good stuff Jatan and Brian!

    I am glad that doc fee is fixed in IL - makes it easier.

    Last time I bought I did the calling around for best price, then negotiating, strategy. I guess the only difference in Brian's strategy is he basically is the first one to toss out a number, and he tosses out a number that should be BREAKEVEN to the dealer on an invoice/holdback basis (if true, then the dealer is making no money? and the only reason they're doing it is to make higher sales numbers?) So I guess he is deciding what is the lowest possible price they could conceivably take, and putting that out there. I assume from there, both strategies converge. Most dealers will probably not take Brian's low price but will counter with something.....and away we go. I guess with Brian's strategy vs. mine, you might be signaling that you know what the prices really are, while if I just ask for "best price" they need to decide if they're gonna screw around quoting $100 off MSRP just in case I am a fool......so maybe you cut to the chase more quickly.....
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,024
    edited October 2013
    my approach is direct no nonsense. I challege each dealership and i command there respect with my knowledge and negotiating skills. There is no game playing each dealerships has 4 mins or so to close me on price then i move on. I could very easily pull good numbers out of a dealer in the beginning of the month but end of the month with dealers needing those sales numbers makes it alot easier to get better prices.

    Good luck with your sale

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • kychoikychoi Posts: 3
    Hey, awesome guy. It was impressive, I am searching for EX-L. Could you tell me the dealership. Actually, in theses days, many dealers told me that 29000.
    This is unfair I think. I am waiting for your reply. Thanks.
  • kychoikychoi Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    Hey, awesome guy. It was impressive, I am searching for EX-L. Could you tell me the dealership. Actually, in theses days, many dealers told me that 29000.
    This is unfair I think. I am waiting for your reply. Thanks. I also live in Florida. actually, in tallahasse but I can move to southern florida to but it.
    I really need your help. please share the awesome information.
    Have a great day.
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