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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • My neighbour in Vancouver B.C is considering buying 2.4L LX-G 5 speed manual Honda Accord and my brother in law in Calgary is considering a 2.4L LX-G automatic Honda Accord. The MSRP on the 5 speed including freight is $26,195 and the MSRP on the automatic is $27,195. What is the best price that people in Canada are getting on these cars?...any information is greatly appreciated
  • Hi Guys...Thanks in Advance for your help.

    I'm ready to buy and have a few quotes via email. What is a reasonable price to buy.

    Thanks
  • 381d381d Posts: 5
    Bought a 2004 ex v-6 sedan, graphite pearl, cargo tray, wheel locks, mud flaps, rubber floor mats.
    price-
    24343 incl. dest (99 ovr. inv + dest.)
       80 lic& title
       54 doc
    -2600 trade- '95 sentra, rust, a little rough
     1417 tax 6.5%
    23293.52 net cost.

    happy w/ car
  • Sounds like a solid deal, especially considering you got the protection package thrown in, and no extraneous BS fees.

    Just goes to show that, right now, Accords can easily be had at or below invoice.

    If I end up pulling the trigger on an '04 EX V6 in the next couple of weeks, I'll post my price paid. I'm going to use the fax-attack method and let these dealers bid for my business.

    Johnny
  • ral2167ral2167 Posts: 642
    i wonder about this scenario: let's say there's an auto show in toledo, and there's a special "$500 off your best deal" coupon given by all the toledo dealerships handed out at the auto show, redeemable until the end of the month. Can an accord then be purchased for $500 below invoice, if normally the 4 cylinder sedan is going for right around invoice, as it appears it is?

    OR, do dealers simply hold the line at $500 above invoice as their bottom line price, so when this coupon is then used by the customer, they are still selling the car for right around invoice?
  • Irrespective of your scenario, I think you can purchase a 4 cyl sedan at or below invoice. In fact, I know you can. Accord sales were down for January, and the Camry just outsold the Accord for the 4th straight year. The market is ripe.

    I'm not sure about the coupon deal you're talking about, but I would try to negotiate my price before I made any mention of the coupon, then spring it on them once the price is nailed down.

    The way you phrased it, "$500 off your best deal" strikes me as meaning they'll beat any deal you negotiate at another dealer by $500. Is that the case?

    Either way, great deals are to be had on Accords right now. I wouldn't pay one dime over invoice, and I would try to get well below.

    Johnny
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,923
    The coupons are most probably worthless. Why would they sell the car any cheaper than they would anyway? Just negotiate the best deal you can. The coupon will just muck things up, and give them another way to play with the numbers.

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • This is my first new car experience and I'm a little nervous about heading out to the dealership tomorrow and 'pleading my case'. I've read alot of the posts and docs here so I feel somewhat prepared, but preparation is no substitute for experience....

    I have been to Jones Honda, PA two other occasions to talk in the past two weeks. I have a trade in (99 Ford Ranger 4x4 v6 53k) which they offered $6000 for and went up to $7200. Seems fair.

    They have only quoted MSRP for the '04 Accord LX 5sp that I want - $19790, and I have not countered yet, or made any comment at all about the price, though I have declined ext. warranty, and other options...

    Tomorrow or the next day I'll be going in to finally strike a deal. Should I just ask them what they can do until they lower the price by themselves? Or should I prepare a little sheet with all my knowledge and my firm asking price? Or a combination of the two? Any other suggestions? I could use them! :) Thanks everyone!
  • I read a post about an excellent deal for an EX V6 in Sonoma; any deals to share for the San Jose area?

    Should I just insist on invoice and get what I want?
  • 381d381d Posts: 5
    Leverage for you-
    1. you walk away from a bad deal. You keep your money, your car, they get nothing. They can't make you do anything, they have to earn your business, and if you can drive your car for a while longer, prices will go down as the '05s get closer with competion from a freshened Altima & Camry, plus their own '05 Hondas. Your '99 will depreciate more slowly than their new cars. The pressure is on them, they've got boatloads of cars arriving that become less valuable everyday they sit on the lot. A car dealer is an expert at creating the notion of "scarcity"- using the word "available" for an unsold car instead of "nobody else on the planet wants that very car right now. It is depreciating everyday. Please buy it!" A 5 sp lx is a great car and still not a "hot" car. How would that sound to you? If you have a car you can live with, you should walk. They'll call in a few days anyway.
    2. True solid, inarguable leverage is a competing personal/internet/carsdirect quote for your exact model/color car. You may have the added luxury of a major competing Honda dealer that advertises no haggle prices with accurate model descriptions.
    I couldn't believe how much the internet works in your favor. Take the time to do this- Once you've decided on a model, and it sounds like you have, a carsdirect or internet price quote will be invaluable- you'll get an e-mail with a firm price, probably a good deal, and instant "availability" information. Let them know you need emdunds/kbb for your car, which is exactly x amount, and you don't want to haggle.
    That's leverage, you've got a solid case for your offer. Also, if a car just arrived or they've got one arriving, your very same deal is worth more to them because they keep more or all of the holdback. Even an under-invoice deal still provides profit. If your stuck on a price that's close but still a little high, do you want a spoiler? fog lights? etc. where you agree to their price if they give you some of their overpriced accessories for free.
    good luck!
    I also insisted on going with their used car appraiser when they asked for my key. I said no, I wanted to go along. After that, they never even drove my car! They just looked at it, and quickly figured out its worth, and probably did a search for accident history. I just told the guy firmly that I would not accept anything but a reference price -kbb, and I knew what it was. That's what I got.

    P.S. bring a calculator, paper, pen, cell phone, printouts of your info. That is your "hand," play it out if you get challenged. I think someone listens in via the microphone/speakerphone function on their desk telephones (to your face-to-face conversation). Also, the manager cuts the deal, not the sales guy. Cut out the middle man if there is back and forth, I'll go check, etc. That's what is so great about the no-haggle internet deal.
    And finally, before you sign a thing, make sure all the numbers add up- demand on seeing the number that is the amount you will owe them after trade/tax/title/doc- they can and will do that, just takes a moment. title & doc are the same for them on every deal, tax takes just a moment to figure out. If the bill of sale is different than this number, walk. Extended warranties to me are a bad deal.
    Good luck & enjoy your new car!
    381d
  • Thanks for everyone who have had shared their experience in this site & internet - whoever invented :) I am sharing mine now to help someone out there to get some idea:
    Here is what I got for V6 EX with NAV & 'metal looking trim': $25711(destination included) + tax and doc fee.

    since I am new here I am not sure if I can mention the name of dealer.. plz let me know if I can do that or not.

    One thing I can tell you is: please avoid the Honda dealer in Costa Mesa at all cost!
    I went there and spent 3 hours on Sat for nothing even with my email print and quote they gave me. They threw all kind of standard BS to me.For example, even if I ask them to offer me a quote including 'Metal looking trim' which is extra interior accessory(I even mentioned that of course) he just didn't know(or pretend) about that option specifically. and tried to blame me not to mention every single time I replied his email.(I asked 'so, is it my fault?' he said 'yes' without hesitation..omg what an attitude) and, when I asked for caculator they said they don't do math using calculator lol! gimme a break :) I just gave up for them although they might save me $300 more but I rather pay that money not to get upset. besides, I got a call from Cerritos dealer so I will buy on this weekend. This guy know what that option is and he will install on site as soon as I sign the contract.

    Since I checked more than 8 Honda dealers in LA county and Orange county just ask me for comment about any dealer nearby.

    again, thanks everyone. I think I got a good deal :)
  • 4bib4bib Posts: 17
    unfortunately, i didn't see reply from musicboy (post #3825) in regards to options he selected for LX with with w/Side Airbags, but i asked for $100 less for the same car
     with accessories: Cassette Player, Audio Attachment, Security System, Security System Attachment Kit, All Season Floormats, Front, Leather Steering Wheel Cover, Trunk Tray, Door Edge Guard, Door Visor, Front, Fenderwell Trim, Wheel locks, Exposed
     and got ok' from one dealer. Now I face a tough choice btw new Mazda 6 & Accord LX auto. I now have 2002 Tribute and it has free transp. solutions from Mazda(I'm getting rental for any warranty repair right away). I think Honda doesn't have this option or it prob. very very expensive. Also powertrain on Honda is only 3/36k. Please, help me decide... Thanks a lot.
  • 4bib4bib Posts: 17
    unfortunately, i didn't see reply from musicboy (post #3825) in regards to options he selected for LX with with w/Side Airbags, but i asked for $100 less for the same car
     with accessories: Cassette Player, Audio Attachment, Security System, Security System Attachment Kit, All Season Floormats, Front, Leather Steering Wheel Cover, Trunk Tray, Door Edge Guard, Door Visor, Front, Fenderwell Trim, Wheel locks, Exposed
     and got ok' from one dealer. Now I face a tough choice btw new Mazda 6 & Accord LX auto. I now have 2002 Tribute and it has free transp. solutions from Mazda(I'm getting rental for any warranty repair right away). I think Honda doesn't have this option or it prob. very very expensive. Also powertrain on Honda is only 3/36k. Please, help me decide... Thanks a lot.
  • Hyrule,

    I just read your post and felt compelled to response. If this is your first time buying a car I would caution you to be very careful when talking and dealing with any car salesman. They are experts at making you feel like they are doing you a favor by selling you a new car while they just made a ton of profit from you. Reading all these great information is no substitute for the real thing.

    I think you already made a mistake by talking to the dealer about your trade in before you agreed on your purchase price for the new car. Read the buying guide here on Edmunds and also check out www.motleyfool.com and do a search in motley fool for guide to buying a new car. They have excellent advice for someone like yourself.
    I can already tell by the words you used "pleading my case" to describe your nervousness that these car salesman might eat you alive. But know that you are the one with the power here. 381d is absolutely right, you have total control and power to walk away if you do not like what they offer. I have purchase many vehicle where I walked out of the dealership only to have the salesperson call me 2 minutes later on my cell willing to give me the vehicle at the price I wanted asking me to come back to the dealership.
     
    If you can, I would call the dealer up and negotiate the price of the new car over the phone (preferrably with the internet sales manager) before going out to the dealer. The internet sales manager can usually give you a better price than a typical salesman because he usually does not work on commision and mainly on volume of cars he sells. Tell them that you will buy the car today but only for the right price. Make sure you give them your phone number before you start negotiating that way they can call you back once you tell them that you don't like their offer. Most dealer will call you back. Better yet, I would prefer to buy from a different dealer than Jones Honda b/c this dealer already knows you have a trade in at a price you already like, therefore they will be less inclined to come down on your new car price. Have you shopped at other dealership that have the vehicle you want? Even if they are far away, you can use them as leverage against Jones Honda.

    Also, if you can wait another week (next weekend) I think it would be better since it will be the end of Feb. Most dealers tend to be more desperate to sell before month end. Did you know that Jan 2004 had the lowest car sales in recent years. Cars just aren't selling right now and I would think that Feb will be no different. Keep in mind that you do not want them to know that you really want the LX 5 speed even though you really do want this. Car dealers will do anything possible (ex. sell at or below invoice) to get rid of cars from there lots. However if they know that you really want a particular vehicle and a certain type(since its hard to find too many Accord LX in 5 sp)than they will certainly be less inclined to negotiate with you. On the other hand, car like accord LX 5 sp is not a very popular car and most people do not want a LX 5 sp and the dealer knows this as well so you can use this to your advantage. Just keep in mind that you are in total control and call all the shots. Go in there with a mindset that you are firm on what you want(price) and make sure that they know you are not going to budge. They already know that your a serious buyer because you have already been there twice in the past 2 weeks. If you play it right, they will most likely give you the new car at the price you want, Good luck and let us know what happened.

    PS. Ext. Warranty are usually not worth it especially on accords which are so reliable.
  • I gotta tip my hat; you're providing sound advice when buying a car. I've done the same with friends, but time after time, people cave in to the pressure that a sales "pro" can provide. People get impatient/ worn out by the rigors of the selling process and just crumble to the ground.

    For those of you lacking the back bone to be firm, diplomatic and tacticle; do as much negotiating as possible through the use of the internet and phone - using the internet sales person.
  • I gotta tip my hat; you're providing sound advice when buying a car. I've done the same with friends, but time after time, people cave in to the pressure that a sales "pro" can provide. People get impatient/ worn out by the rigors of the selling process and just crumble to the ground.

    For those of you lacking the back bone to be firm, diplomatic and tacticle; do as much negotiating as possible through the use of the internet and phone - using the internet sales person. Or better yet, get someone to do it for you - it could save you THOUSANDS$$
  • 4bib> musicboy: Could you please list options
    4bib> you chose to arrive to MSRP of $20,840?

    There were no options that were included in the MSRP of $20,840 (which as I said in my originial post included destination of $490.) This was the MSRP as printed on the Factory window sticker that came with this car. I also just checked Edmunds (and a couple of the other services) current pricing and this is still the listed National Base price for this vehicle.

    This dealer had already installed Pin Stripes, Wheel Moldings, Mud Guards and Wheel Locks and would have sold them to some sucker who showed up on the lot and didn’t know any better as “additional dealer-added equipment and services” for $646.00. They weren’t about to de-install them so they included them AT NO ADDITIONAL COST in the OTD price of $18,480.90. (see my previous message #3825 for details.)

    4bib> i asked for $100 less for the same car with
    4bib> accessories: Cassette Player, Audio Attachment,
    4bib> Security System, Security System Attachment Kit,
    4bib> All Season Floormats, Front, Leather Steering Wheel
    4bib> Cover, Trunk Tray, Door Edge Guard, Door Visor,
    4bib> Front, Fenderwell Trim, Wheel locks, Exposed
    4bib> and got ok' from one dealer.

    So you are sayinging that they will sell you the car with all those accessories for $17,652.13? That would be a super duper great deal (IMHO) if its an exact match on the car. Are you sure that the dealer is comparing the same car: 2004 Accord LX 4 DR Sedan 4 cyl 5 spd AT with Dual Side Airbags (CM5644EW)? To make sure, ask him for the Honda designated Trim number and see if it matches the number in the previous sentence. That way you’ll know that you are comparing apples with apples.

    Sometimes dealers have been known to say one thing and then once you are at the dealership say something like “Oh, I thought we were talking about a manual transmission. What you want will cost more.” If that were to happen you can always walk out but you will have wasted some time. Just check to be sure.

    4bib> Now I face a tough choice btw new Mazda 6 & Accord LX auto

    In purchasing my new Accord, I looked at the Mazda 6, Toyota Camry, Nissan Sentra and VW Passat and came to the conclussion that the Accord was the best bang for the buck overall for my needs. I had previously owned a Mazda 626 and was very happy with it through the years. However I thought it’s replacement, the Mazda 6, was not for me. Primarily this was due to the fact that it is a smaller car and it didn’t seem to be as fully thought out as the Accord. For me the choice came down to the Toyota Camry and the Accord. And you know where I ended up.
  • 4bib4bib Posts: 17
    Thank you for a great reply. I sent exactly the same quote for 5 dealeships in my area - NY. (I didn't use your faxing method yet). I hope one dealer that I got ok' from did read full request for my quote :) I will definitely clarify this with him.
    Now, as far as warranty issues, would you recommend to buy extended warranty from Honda? I think I'm going to have around 24k/year on a new car. Is it worth doing, if I plan keeping this new car for a long time?
  • 4bib> I hope one dealer that I got ok' from did read full request for my quote :)
    4bib> I will definitely clarify this with him.

         That’s a good idea. I had one dealer who had emailed me an aggressive price in the first round and when I emailed a reply asking for color choices available in that car (which I had asked for in my initial request) he replied that he didn’t read to the bottom of my initial email and didn’t realize that I wanted side airbags and he didn’t have any in stock and couldn’t sell it to me at that price anyway (I ultimately bought it for less than that from another dealer.) At least I didn’t waste any time going to his dealership until I had clarified everything.

    4bib> Now, as far as warranty issues, would you recommend to buy extended
    4bib> warranty from Honda? I think I'm going to have around 24k/year on a
    4bib> new car. Is it worth doing, if I plan keeping this new car for a long time?

         I didn’t buy an extended warranty at the time of purchase. As I understand from reading these boards you can always buy the Honda extended warranty up to the end of your new car warranty (I think you if you purchase it at a later time in addition to it’s cost you will pay a small additional sum of something like $60.) I may consider one as I near the end of my original factory warranty if I seem to be having abnormal problems with my car.

         I think that many people on these boards will say that it’s not necessary to purchase an extended warranty because the car is so finely engineered and that with proper maintainence it will last a long long time without major problems. Others will say that if you are the type of person that wants to have all bases covered and not have to worry about the possibility of having an expensive repair down the road then the peace of mind of an extended warranty will be worth the cost.

         A Honda extended warranty is available up to 7 years or 100,000 miles. The seven years includes the original new car warranty of 3yrs/36000 miles. So you are really getting 4 more years of warranty and based on your estimate of 24k a year it would only amount to a little more than 4 years total before hitting 100,000 miles.

         If you do decide that you want to get a Honda extended warranty you might want to shop other Honda dealers on the Internet as this is an item that many will deal on. I know I have seen it posted somewhere on these boards a dealership in MA that will sell Honda extended warranties at a discount. Also somewhere I have info about a dealership that will sell them at $100 over cost. I’ll look to see if I can find it.
  • Thanks everyone, especially 381d & json717 for your detailed replies. I now am a happy owner of an Accord LX 5sp Sedan(Graphite Pearl).

    I went back to Jones Honda and my original salesman was not there. I talked with another guy and inquired about LX 5 Speeds in stock and colors. He said he had none but if he had some color choices he could see if he could get one from another dealership. He came back with our second choice color and said there was ‘only one Graphite Pearl in the entire state of Pennsylvania’. He said he would have to have the Silver LX brought over from Pittsburgh (300 miles away).
    I started to deal with him about the trade in price and the price of the car and when I was becoming insistent about certain prices, he declined to deal with me further and told me to wait until the next day when my original salesman would be back. I didn’t hesitate. Without my first color choice and having to wait a week and being told to come back - I left and didn’t come back.

    I drove 30 minutes west to Apple Honda in York. Immediately I met someone there and asked about LX 5 speeds in stock. They had a good selection including my color choice. I sat down to deal, and after getting a feel for the atmosphere and the sales person (it makes a big difference I think), I decided to take a direct approach. They had offered $7000 trade-in for my Ford, which was in the middle of several online ‘blue book’ services’ quotes. Pretty fair I think, and about what I was expecting.

    I told them I wanted to pay 17500 for the car. They grimaced and made comments about the 1000s of dollars difference between MSRP and my price but took it to the ‘manager’. They immediately came back with an offer of Invoice and $6500 for my trade in. I said no way to $6500 for the trade in, I wanted $7000. They countered with $6800 and while I considered I applied for credit, hinting that I really was hoping to get the 2.9% financing. I know my credit isn’t quite good enough to qualify normally, but they offered the 2.9% and I felt it was a fair deal in total. Not spectacular, but definitely fair.

    So my final price on the `04 Accord LX 5Speed Graphite Pearl with no options was:

    Invoice: $17884.64
    Tax: $665
    Fees: $128
    Total: $18678

    The people at Apple were extremely friendly, not too pushy, the Finance Guys were very nice and nothing I saw was questionable and they went out of their way to be open and honest with all the numbers and terms – as far as I could tell.

    I guess my research and hard work paid off! Thanks!
  • i'm from rockland county ny. i'm looking for a new 2004 auto ex v6 nav accord. so far the best quote from "Honda of Nanuet" was for $26,679.00 + tax +Documentation($45.00) + dmv fees.

    i think i can do better on the price of the car.

    thanks
  • pgillpgill Posts: 84
    I was quoted $26,000 for the same car at D&C Honda at Tenafly. Looks like you can probably do better.
  • nw1997nw1997 Posts: 227
    mark,

        I did not like the service we got from Honda of Nanuet. There pricing was not competitive.
  • I love the idea of using Costco to buy a car, provided I'm not leaving more than a couple hundred dollars on the table vs. a grind it out deal.

    Anyone have experience getting a quote from Costco and then go out and try to beat it?
  • nw1997nw1997 Posts: 227
    aspesisteve,

         We did get a quote from a dealership that had an agreement with COSTCO. It was much higher than we got on our own. This was in the NYC area where the Accords and Camrys sell for high prices cause the demand are very high out here.
  • last year i tried to help my neice shop for a 2003 crv. i contacted several honda dealers on my area and "honda of nanuet" was no where close to the lowest price. my neice thought comming in the the best price and talking to a live sales man would help. it did and he gave an even lower price. the key is try and try again.
  • when i purchased my camry back in 97, the toyota dealer had a lifetime oil change club for a one time fee of $100. i signed up and they still honor it. now i'm in the market for an accord and need to know if there are any honda dealerships that have oil change promotions, free loaner, free car wash, ... around the rockland county ny area ?

    thanks
  • around what month is the best time for incentives? when do the next years model accords come out. the camry comes out around oct. so thats a good time for deals.

    thanks
  • The quote I got from Costco was right around invoice...which is quite a bit more than other sources (like Edmunds and Autobytel)but they were very easy to deal with. Have had clients that bought other makes from them and been very happy though.
  • I bought a silver EX V6 yesterday for $24395, which I consider a decent price.

    It took some going back and forth, but it came down to the fact that I found a dealer about 3 hours away that had quoted me that as an internet price. So really, this dealer was forced to match it or I could have driven a few hours and done the deal (I live in central PA, and Honda dealers are spread out). I didn't want to do that, so I was really hoping the dealer would match, and they did.
    My experience with the dealer was pleasant, and I thought he was pretty straightforward with me. My wife and I bought a GMC truck a few months earlier, and they were shady and will lie right to you and deny it a few minutes later.

    The Honda dealer basically said you typically won't be able to negotiate a price as low as some internet managers will go, because they are looking for quick easy sales and will settle for only a couple hundred dollars over invoice. But he grudgingly matched the price, so I was happy. I then negotiaed my trade, which I received $2500 for (a fair price, according to kbb, for a fairly worn down 1994 Honda Passport).

    Here's a question:
    On the sale write-up, he broke down the price as this:
    Sale price $26890
    Trade in $4995
    Total sale $21895

    Rather than a Sale price of $24395 and the $2500 trade. He said it's better for me because if anything happens to the car, it will have a higher replacement value. I suspect that it was better for him, and will appear that he sold the car for the full MSRP.

    Is this normal practice? It didn't affect my price, so I didn't mind.

    Thanks.
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