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Do you think there is a problem here or is that just the way it is? Seems odd that they are merely "seat lukewarmers" and not true "seat heaters".
Take it easy on isell...he's tryin' to make a livin' ...Steve
Do you think there is a problem here or is that just the way it is? Seems odd that they are merely "seat lukewarmers" and not true "seat heaters".
I am sure due to the excess of hungry lawyers in the US Honda chose not to make the seat warmer hot enough to fry an egg, as I can see the headlines. "Poor CR-V driver's behind has been scorned by the seat warmers."
It is all in comparison. When it is -20°F outside and the seat is 50°F, you will appreciate it more than when it is 48°F outside and the seat is heated to 50°F. I am sure there is limit on how hot the seat warmer can get before the "leather" starts deteriorating. And yes, it only heats up the bottom on the passenger side, I was told it heats up the seatback and the bottom on the driver's side. But I am not 100% confident in the source (Honda salesman).
It's just that things can get horribly overblown and over amplified beyond reality on these boards. Some people read of these problems and jump to the conclusion that it's a MAJOR problem that affects every car on the road.
And, people are sometimes quick to jump in and say..."me too".
I don't doubt some CRV's are affected by a pull it's just that I've never felt any pull to the right or whatever in ANY of the many, many CRV's I've driven or in the two I've owned.
Hopefully, honda can isolate the problem and fix it.
I know that is how it works for my 2001 TL. I think there's something about it in the owner's manual.
FWIW, I have heated leather in my CR-V (aftermarket) as well as the OEM bun warmers in my Acura. Can't tell the difference in temp.
A couple questions...First, did I cause this by elevating psi to 30 from the recommended 26 about three weeks ago? Second, could an improper alignment have caused this?
Thanks.
Front and rear tires wear in different ways... The sound comes from the tires making contact in different areas and in a different way... As they wear in, the sound will probably be less pronounced...
If you have relatively fast wearing tires, you probably need to rotate more often than every 10K. (maybe every 5K). The more often you rotate the tires, the more evenly they will wear.. In other words, if you are only going to get 30K out of the tires, you can't get them to wear evenly if you only rotate them twice..
regards,
kyfdx
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Guess I should check the Owner's Manual for their recommended rotation interval and then see if that improves things.
In the future, I'd like to switch to a quieter tire. How about the Michelin Harmony...anyone have experience with them?
As for the Harmony question, I don't know about using them on the CR-V, but I have them on my 2002 Odyssey and I really like them.
All of the Honda's I have had had the fuel filler on the driver's side. I have yet to see a Japanese car to have the fuel filler on the passenger side. Our Driver's side is Japan's Passenger side. Look at US and European cars, most of them have fuel filler on the passenger side, exept a few US branded cars that were designed by a Japanese company (Ford Escape comes to mind) It took me forever to figure out what that arrow on the dashboard of my girlfriend's Focus was for.
I can't imagine taking the time and trouble to print out a small arrow and tape it to the dash but, hey, if that makes them happy...
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The plastic cap should pull off. There's a nut and some washers and bushings that mount the armrest onto a bracket that's bolted to the seat. The problem is that the mounting points for the bracket are integral components of the seat frame. You'd have to cut them off the seat frame and then weld them in a higher position. And of course the new position wouldn't match the old one, which means you'd have to cut a new hole in the seat back cover.
I believe anything is possible, but you're looking at a lot of work just to raise the armrest a few inches.
Another possibility, depending on how much you want to raise it, is to remove the armrest, slit the bottom of the the amrest cover to remove it, add padding to the top of the armrest to make it taller, and then replace the armrest cover patching the split with some similar material to accomdate the larger padding.
JM2C
Are you trying to raise the entire armrest (move the entire unit higher)?
Or, are you trying to change the angle of the armrest (so it doesn't tilt downward)?
If you are just trying to change the tilt, you might go with a different armrest. Honda sells an armrest that is wider and has a flip-up cover to reveal some storage inside. This additional armrest has a ratcheting function, so you can adjust the angle. Not sure if it will meet your needs, but it might be worth investigating.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/crvint05.html
It seems that the transmission could not hold any gear. The D green light started to blink, so I coasted to a stop. I turned off and on the engine, the MIL was still on and the D was still blinking. I could move the gear lever to D again, but it took a couple of seconds to engage 1 or 2, and it made a strange noise and it rocked the V while doing this. I was able to get home, 1 mile or so, but the transmission did not shift from 2nd, so I kept it below 2500 rpm.
Questions:
1. Am I explaining my problem correctly? I want to have the wording perfectly understood when I talked to the dealer; English is not my first language, so I may miss some of the technical terms.
2. Is anybody familiar with this problem? Is it because the 5-speed AT is new?
3. The service guy mentioned over the phone that it might not be a tranny problem, that when a MIL comes on, the car goes on backup mode, and it holds first gear. I am not familiar with this, and there's seems to be a problem with the tranny though, because of the aforementioned noise when I shift the lever.
Thanks in advance,
2) The service guy may be correct. On another car we have, an engine sensor went out, and the car went into limp mode. Which certainly mimicked your problem with the transmission.. Any number of things could be attributable to that. It may not be the transmission.
I would certainly have it flat-bedded to the dealer, though. I wouldn't attempt to drive it again.
regards,
kyfdx
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I hope there's nothing to worry about; it's brand new!
If you open the car with the remote, but don't open a door within a certain period of time, the car will re-lock itself.. This is to keep you from unlocking the car as you walk away.. by inadvertently pushing a button while putting your keys in your pocket or purse..
That doesn't sound like what is happening with your car... But, food for thought..
WAG #2: Is the remote in her purse when she throws it in the front seat? Maybe the remote is wearing out, and the button is activating from small pressures or shocks?
I recommend never closing all of the doors without having the keys on your person.. Maybe it comes from being a route driver at one time, but I always pat the front of my pocket before closing the door on my car.. I know your wife probably wears clothes without pockets, etc... But, she should really never close the car doors with your child inside, unless the keys are outside the car.. You are correct in stating that it is potentially dangerous..
I realize none of this solves your problem, but maybe she should leave her purse on the roof, while she buckles your child up.. No, wait... that is a bad idea, also...
If it happens often, you should be able to demonstrate it for the service department.. It shouldn't be difficult to fix. But, I still would stop closing the door, while both by keys and child are inside, even after the repair.
regards,
kyfdx
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Unlock the doors and open the driver's door. Does the overhead light go on? Change the switch on the light so that the light comes on only when the door is open. It has three settings: always off, on when doors are open, always on. Close all the doors (so the light is off).
Open the "left backseat passenger door". Does the light go on? If it doesn't, check the switch on the door frame to see if it's popping out. It may just be gummed up and poking at it will fix the problem, or possibly might be broken and have to be replaced.
Good luck.
Did you get an aftermarket alarm installed?
It is quite possible that the car doe snot sense the door being open. Or the remote button is accidentally pushed. The way the remote power locks are designed in a Honda, they will not work if any of the doors, trunk or hatch are open.
Varmint drives a manual Gen 1 :-) I drive a manual Gen 2.
The over ride light should be off when the over ride is engaged, when you dis engage override the light comes on. Whenever you turn off the car and restart it will default to overide on (no light). Same for VSC.
OWNER'S MANUAL is your friend :-)
I'm not aware of an aftermarket gearshift that fits the automatic trannies. I know there are a few for the manuals (but that's no help here).
Brake Clunk is described here. I kinda doubt it's the issue the you are concerned with.
The solenoid click is normal. It's a little electrical widget in the steering column that locks out the reverse gear when the car is rolling. It does make an audible click. It's driven some folks crazy while others have never heard it.
Thanks!
And before anyone asks how I would use the O/D if I needed it. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the topof the cover and a pen or pencil or dowel can be used to depress the O/D button. Thanks Anyway
And before anyone asks how I would use the O/D if I needed it. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the topof the cover and a pen or pencil or dowel can be used to depress the O/D button. Thanks Anyway
Not to be a smart [non-permissible content removed], but the incessant engine noise would tell you that you are in a low gear. CR-V does not have a quiet engine, it makes its presence known well.
You may want to try disconnecting the switch at the base of the shifter, and putting a "flicker" switch somewhere in the dash to re-activate O/D button, when needed.