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Catalytic Converter
Engine Control Module
Onboard Emission Diagnostic Device
According to the warranty supplement booklet, which hardly anyone ever bothers cracking let alone reading, "...major emission control components listed under the ... '8 Year/80,000 Mile Emission Warranty Parts List' [see above reference] will be covered for a period of 8 years from the date of original retail delivery or date of first use, or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty coverage applies to the vehicle regardless of a change in ownership and is transferable to subsequent owners. [emphasis mine]"
Sadly, there are some dealers (regardless of make) which will charge the customer full bore and then turn around and bill the manufacturer for repairs done under warranty - "double dipping".
YES! I definitely experience that noise with my '06 GL and I've been commenting about it for a couple of months, including 2 posts in the main Sonata board. Mine's not occasional though, it's noisy every time and I think it might be the worst when the engine is cold. I have described it as like a mild diesel noise.
I've been meaning to thank you for your nit-picky post last week; it's nice to know that I'm not the only Sonata owner who's super-critical. And I, like you, naturally see all these defects without resorting to all the inspection aides some wise guy rattled off in his post.
And the guy who thinks all these defects are to be expected and tolerated because the car costs less than $20K must have a money tree in his yard because he obviously has more money and lower expectations than I do.
I lift off the pedal, the noise stops and the engine is quiet. I can even hear an interruption in the noise during the 1-2 shift because the tranny is that slow in executing this shift (another of my complaints).
I've noticed in colder weather (around 60 and below) that the "mild diesel" noise with the 4 cylinder is pretty constant when at idle, but I can only hear it when I have the windows rolled down a little or someone opens the door. My last Hyundai, an Elantra, would make similar noises as well in this type of weather. I think it might have something to do with the belts. It's probably harmless.
I was driving around tonight and my passenger also noticed all the noises coming from the rear end at lower speeds (in parking lots and going over speed bumps mainly). Why is it that we (the end users) are noticing these sounds when Hyundai spent all this time and money doing R&D that should have caught it during cooler-weather testing to begin with? Really, Hyundai can give me some cars to test out if they want (I can dream, right?), and I will help them find out the issues that their engineers apparently can't find with all the sophisticated and expensive equipment they must have at hand. Of course, issues with real world testing isn't something that's exclusive to Hyundai. We've seen plenty of other first year issues rise up with Honda, Toyota, GM, Ford, etc... you name it. At the same time, some of these issues seem so painfully obvious that perhaps the only possible explanation is that the supplier messed up the parts AFTER the prototypes were tested out. Or we just simply attribute it to the bean counters...
Anyway, enough of my rant -- although I think it's justified after reading some articles about Hyundai's chairman being really obsessed with quality. I suppose I'm allowed to be somewhat obsessed as well as someone who is driving the finished product, right? :P
The tensioner is not adjustable it's the pressure tip on it that could be bad. If your belt slipped a teeth or two your car would probably not run. Is your service engine light on. A misfire normally turns that light on.
2. Has the trouble of doing your own changes been worth the savings? In other words is the sonata anymore troublesome to change oil for then other cars like the accord or camry. 3. What brand of oil filter are you using? If anyone has recommendations regarding what the best brand of filter and oil is. It would be very much appreciated.
Thank You :shades:
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, fezzy. It's always good to be corrected by someone who's better informed. In consideration of your taking the time and trouble to share your expertise, I've ripped out page 14 of the "Engine Electrical System" section of my copy of the 2003 Hyundai Sonata Shop Manual since the following section obviously doesn't apply:
"Improper arrangement of the spark plug cables will induce voltage between the cables, causing misfiring (and surging of acceleration in high-speed operation). Therefore, be careful to arrange the spark plug cables properly as shown in the illustration."
I'm sure Hyundai would appreciate your dropping a line to them, too, so they can correct the erroneous information printed in their service manuals. Thanks again.
*Wally-Mart's in-store index lists the SuperTech number 6706 as the proper oil filter for Hyundais of that vintagage. That's actually a filter designation applying to Hondas, and generally would be correct. BUT, in 2003, Honda's available space with certain engines necessitated a MUCH physically smaller, tricycle-sized oil filter, the 6706, than previous years for Hondas. For your Hyundai Sonata V6, IGNORE the Wally-Mart recommendation and buy the 3593A if you choose one of their filters.
**BUT, there's a plastic air-flow piece that requires getting your hand uncomfortably close to the hot front exhaust pipe unless you remove that plastic piecd first. It's held on with three screws that take a 10mm socket so the piece will fall away. Once off, you'll have all the room you need to work in without risking a burn.
Sometime, they do not label the shared fuse.
What probably happened was your power wire touched radio chassis Ground and blow the fuse. Another possible cause is you may still have the short after putting the new radio in. So take the new radio out to see if the other modules working.
Another question: are you sure you wired the new radio correctly?
jt
"Improper arrangement of the spark plug cables will induce voltage between the cables, causing misfiring (and surging of acceleration in high-speed operation). Therefore, be careful to arrange the spark plug cables properly as shown in the illustration."
This happens when your wires are bad. Basic physics tells you that metal is a conductor of electricity. With this being the case having your wires next to your car may induce voltage between your engine and wires. Wires are shielded in order to prevent misfiring. Aligning them neatly as they were in the beginning makes them easier to work with and neat.
I posted a similar message in early September. I have a 2001 V-6 with the same problem that you mentioned. My radio turns on and off without me touching any buttons. I missed your posting, and the reply from "lastwraith". I just put in a new battery, because mine tested weak and since winter is coming ..... For the next two days my radio was "normal". Just today it started its thing again. I haven't done anything else to troubleshoot it. A friend tells me I have a short in it???
I haven't tried to get behind the dash, which may be impossible without alot of work, to see if I can notice anything. Have you resolved your problem, and if so, please post what was done to correct it. I will certainly post my findings, if I have any luck !!!
I've found the Central Locking Signal Control Module behind the climate control panel in the dash, and there's supposedly a "set/off" toggle switch on the Module, but I haven't been able to find it from feeling around with my hand. Does anybody know anything more about the programming process for my car? Can anyone give me a hint as so where I would find the "set/off" toggle switch?
Thanks for any help!
Please send instructions.
Ben
bfrenkel@comcast.net
If I find out I will let you know.
Ben
Does anyone with a knowledge of Hyundai engines know how difficult this job really is? I know a mechanic in my neighborhood who would charge less, but I doubt he has much experience with Hyundai... is changing a crank sensor really complex or fairly simple?
FYI: the car has 78,000 miles. It recently started getting stuck at 3,000 RPMs (Check Engine was NOT on). I took it to the dealership and did a transmission fluid change maintenence, and a couple days later the car is running far worse and the check engine light is on.
Thanks.
Mine is a V6 and it was not fun to change, it is located beside the front exhaust manifold. I removed the two electric fans and the hook for engine removal so I had a little more room, a few skinned nuckles later and it was installed.
Good luck, Dave.
What's the brand/price of your extra crank sensor? If you're interested, I may be able to take it off your hands...
Dmitry