I'll second alcan's recommendation to check the plugs and wires. If you have a misting bottle, start the car with the hood open, then spray the misting bottle on/near the plug wires. If you get a fireworks show, you know they are bad. In my case, I knew because I could see where the current was arcing from the plug wires through the valve covers...
If you have to change plugs and wires, ONLY USE AC DELCO. I've read stories of numerous folks who used NGK or Bosch, only to have recurring problems that went away when the AC Delco plugs and wires were used...
Can't guarantee that secondary ignition is causing the problem, but here's some feedback to a diagnosis I did for similar symptoms a few years ago in the Bonneville forum:
Seth, I recommend that u take it to the dealer for a diagnose and pay the $80 or $90 that they charge for a diagnose, before u go buying a computer, those things aren't cheap at all, unless u find a used one..good luck...
You are not going crazy...I have changed all my plugs and wires with AC Delco...and have the same exact problem for 6 months now...just cleaned all my fuel injectors with the same result...I am currently at a loss to what else could be wrong...
when you guys changed the plug wires, are you totally sure they're the correct order?
From the passenger fender to the driver's looking to the coil pack:
67418325 (cylinder #'s)
I changed my plugs/wires/coils about a year ago (30k miles) and yesterday, I just found out I had 7 and 5 backwards!!! The car always ran fine. Drove to Orlando to Ft. Lauderdale at least 6 times all at high speeds. Then on a simple slurpee run, the car stumbled and ran horribly. Idle shook bad and had no power/bogged. Made it home, pulled the plugs. Cylinder 7's spark plug had carbon black stuff over the platinum tips. Changed plugs, still ran bad. I thought about the coil order, found a pic off ebay with the coil pack and cylinder numbers on top. Gave it and try and BAM! Car the runs the best it has in the 2 years I've had it.
In an earlier post I wrote that my 97 Aurora's voltage fluctuated between 12.5 & 14.5 volts and that the tachometer opperated erratically. I fixed the problem by going to alldatadiy.com and printing out the grounding points for the car. I just tightened all of the grounding points and the problem is gone.
In an earlier post I wrote that my 97 Aurora's voltage fluctuated between 12.5 & 14.5 volts and that the tachometer opperated erratically. I fixed the problem by going to alldatadiy.com and printing out the grounding points for the car. I just tightened all of the grounding points and the problem is gone.
I have just corrected , after 2 years, the same overheating problem.I have been to dealers and have been assured that the dual fans handle the situation. I am an avid GM customer and know that 240+ is too much. I found a small water pump gasket leak and replaced the water pump and found that the radiator top (plastic) was burst. I replace the radiator and am now enjoying the pleasure of 210 degrees anyway shape or form of driving. Dealers don't want to work on Auroras.
I own a '95 Aurora. Where is the starter solenoid located? I hoping to God that it is not inside of the engine block. I bought a new one because the blower stays on after I turn off the engine. The diagram on alldatadiy.com is confusing, but the guys at Napa told me that it would real easy to replace. Well, I ain't going to get very far if I can't identify the location under the hood. I hope that someone can help me.
Not exactly inside the engine block, but close. The solenoid is mounted directly to the starter, which resides in the valley between the two banks of cylinders. AFAIK, the intake manifold must be removed for access.
What puzzles me is what does the starter solenoid have to do with "blower stays on after I turn off the engine"? Is it the HVAC blower or the radiator cooling fan(s)? Either way, indicting the starter solenoid is a stretch.
We just started having the same problem last week on a '96. Sometimes it will start right up, sometimes just a click. It won't start right up when you jump unless the OTHER vehicle is 'revving up'... then it starts right up. Our battery indicator shows we're charging at 15.7 volts (which is really what the alternator is charging) and we were told by a parts mgr that the battery was fried if it's charging that much. $120 to replace and it did the same thing the next night. Had to jump (revving the engine on the other vehicle). My clerk's boyfriend works service at the local dealership here. Asked him to see what he could find out and we'll pay him to fix (instead of the dealer). I'll let you know what we find out.
Does anybody else's 2001+ Aurora's dashboard squeak and rattle horribly? Mostly coming from dash in front of driver close to the windshield. Really starting to get annoying. My 97 has ZERO rattles and squeaks.
Help! I have a 2002 Aurora (3.5 liter) with 49,000 miles on it. The engine light came on & I took in for service. I was told that check valves failed and allowed water into the air pump, freezing the air pump motor. Cost: $863.35 ($662.05 for parts, $201.30 for labor).
Do I need to replace these items? What happens if I don't? Can I replace these items myself? The car is running fine.
Needless to say, I'm not happy at the prospect of spending this much money on a problem I wouldn't even know about if it weren't for the engine light.
I would check with your local GM dealer. I think the air pump is covered by the extended emissions warranty, and perhaps the remainder the the 60K warranty (if you opted for it).
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
My 01 4.0 just turned 70000 miles. Just put new ceramic brake pads front and rear. Since I bought the car used, I have no idea if I was replacing the originals. But the service center thought they were, with 10% left up front and 40% still remaining in the rear. Not bad. They suggested changing front and rear at same time with same type pads. Had the brake fluid flushed, too. Car drives great, and I continue to get compliments on it from friends who are from import only mind set. I have noticed as the temperatures drop into the 40s and below, my car gets a squeak that seems to be coming from the center console--sounds like it is in the area of the shifter. Over rough pavement and expansion strips it sounds like a constant tapping noise with an occasional chirp. I have removed everything in the center console, glove box and center arm rest,etc. but can't find the squeak. Any ideas? Something odd: some of the backlighting around some controls work and don't work. When I bought the car, the light at the shifter did not light, the top steering wheel (redundant radio and climate control buttons) controls don't light, but the bottom buttons do, part of the climate control backlighting was dim (fan control), and heated seat buttons were lit unevenly. In meantime, part of speedometer light (40-80mph range burned out), yet everything works! Then--the shifter light on the console started working again (for over 6 weeks now), and the speedometer back light is full aglow again as well as the fan control. Incredible. All buttons/switches are operative. Did GM get Lucas UK to do the electrics??
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
I didn't take the 60,000 mile warranty. I'm a cheap SOB. Dealer did agree to fix the car for a $100 deductible and he would submit it under warranty claims.
I'm not sure how that works, but for a $100, I'm not asking.
FYI - I think it pays to throw a fit and mention that your next new vehicle will be a Lexus.
Sorry i didn't spell your e-mail name correctly. I typed it in. Ah, the advantages of cut and paste. Glad to hear the dealer helped you. I am surprised it wasn't covered at no charge under the emissions warranty. I haven't looked at the warranty book, but I am surprised. Perhaps call GM, and inquire? Anyhow, hope you are enjoying your Aurora.
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
I've got a 95 with 130000. No real problems until the other morning with starting, the engine revs to 4500 rpm and fluctuates between 4000 and 4500 rpm. Shut down and same problem recurs. Any suggestions?
All the sudden when I open my drivers door (95) the interior light doesnt come on and the radio does not turn off. I went to look for the button that is on the door jam of most cars , but I did not see one on the Aurora.
If anyone knows what the contact is on the Aurora i would appreciate it. Im hoping its just a stuck lever or something because all the other doors will activate the light and turn off the radio if I open them. Just not the drivers door.
I believe they are in part of the door latch itself. Should be a black plastic piece where the latch bar (on the body) goes into the door on the door. Hoped that helped. I know when I work on the inside of mine, I "fake" close the driver's door by rotating the piece on the door latch.
HEY I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. I HAVE A 01 4.0. THE SQUEAK SEAMS TO BE COMING FROM THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE DASH, AROUND THE AIR VENT. IT DRIVES ME NUTS. I HAVE REPLACED SO MUCH ON THIS CAR...IT IS CRAZY. A NEW RADIO, BECAUSE THE BUTTONS WERE SCRATCHED, THE ASHTRAY DOOR, DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT WOULD NOT STAY CLOSED. I ALSO REPLACED THE DRIVER INFO. SYSTEM. ONE OF THE BUTTONS WOULD NOT ILLUMINATE, AS WELL AS BOTH BOTTOM STEERING WHEEL CONTROL BUTTONS FOR THE AIR BLOWER SPEED AND RADIO FUNCTIONS. BOTH OF THESE BUTTONS WOULD NOT ILLUMINATE. I WORK AT A GM DEALERSHIP AND LOVE THE CAR. I JUST THINK GM THREW SO MUCH TECHNOLOGY AT THIS CAR WITHOUT A-LOT OF LONG TERM TESTING. MY ODOMETER DISPLAY FOR THE MILES IS A LITTLE GARBLED. THE CAR IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY, SO IT DOES NOT COST ME A THING. DO YOU HAVE ANY OF THESE SYMPTOMS? LET ME KNOW
My cabin rearview mirror has lost its mind. I've always left the auto-dim function on. (The 95's have a simple, auto-dim only mirror w/an on/off switch) Recently, if left on during the day, it turns on full dim power and turns deep blue, if turned off, it goes back to a regular mirror. Then on my drive back to school, at the top of the mirror headed down in a bubble type shape, it started turning yellow, (like the yellow headlights on the GT cars at Rolex) and wouldn't turn back after I turned it off. Sat overnight and is now back to a regular mirror. Haven't driven at night yet to see if the auto-dim still worked. Any ideas?
My Mom's 01 Suby driver's side auto-dim mirror apparently leaked it guts out and now looks horrible and is barely useable. But mine still functions as a mirror. Maybe there's a difference between one for outside and one for inside and the obvious model year diff?
Lastly, would I be able to install a newer mirror into my 95? I already successfully installed homelink into my 95 and was wondering if it would be a direct plug and play or not. Looking at like a 97-99 Aurora mirror with a compass is my question. An On-Star mirror wouldn't work. Also what about another GM mirror with compass and temp on the mirror would that worK?
My mother-in-law used to have a '95 (before she got her '98 - sold it for a Blazer, but missed the Aurora so bad she had to get another). When she transferred from the Orion factory here to Wisconsin, one of her co-workers put a '98 mirror in her '95 as a going-away present (although I don't know the answer to the question of whether he ordered the part or if it was a "freebie" :-). So, it should be possible, though you may have to install or route cabling for a temperature sensor...
I see a lot of Gentex mirrors on eBay (am going to try to pick one up for my GTO, which is sorely missing autodim/compass/outside temp - just has a basic $1.98 mirror on it)...
The '95 mirror was different from the rest of the years... I don't know if it came with the temp. sensor. If it didn't, you'd need to install one somewhere, is all I'm saying...
Hello, this is my first post here, the wiper motor just died on me. I think the wipers were in the "automatic" position when I turned the car on to "warm" it up. there was some ice on the windshield and I guess the ice prevented the wiper from moving, thus wearing out the motor. I would like to get my hands on a repair manual for my car... 2001 4.0 aurora. I ordered a wiper motor already but haven't checked to see how difficult this install will be. has anyone done this job? if so how hard? how long will it take? any weird things I should know before attempting? any help would be great.. Thanks.
Roughly about 2 weeks ago my 98 aurora loss the following functionality: All instrument gauges, DIC, and the keyless entry. The car starts and runs perfectly but you are unable to see how fast your are going. The instrument lighting is fine, and I physically checked all the fuses in the (3) locations: left side of dashboard, under hood, and under rear seat.
Is there a computer that controls all of these functions????
Less than a week ago, my 95 developed a solid "clunking" sound (almost a knock) in the front end whenever I steered the wheel to the left. I could actually feel it clunk under my feet while driving slow.
I diagnosed the problem to be a worn out inner tie rod end. Saturday morning I replaced all inner and outer rod ends. I figured as long as I have to get the car aligned, it would be best to replace all the joints at once. It wasn't a very difficult job to do at all. 90$ for parts, and 55$ for a laser alignment.
Just normal parts that wear out I guess. I can't complain, there are 103,000 on the Odometer!
yes, had to get mine replaced on my 01 at about 36000 miles. should last a lot longer than that. I took it in for what I thought was the ISS lube, and it turned out to be tie rod ends.
Would you relate this problem as the same type problem as if the bearings on the struts were worn out? I've replaced my struts but the clunk still remains. Dunno if its both directions (left and right).
About 2 months ago, I lost almost all external lights on my '01 3.5L. First, the taillights went out for a week or so, then they came back for a few days before dying again. Then the fog lights went out. Finally, 1 of the 2 license plate lamps and side markers. At this time, I only have working headlights (HI and LO), turn signals, and (thankfully) brake lights. None of the bulbs are blown so I am unsure why this is happening. Any insight is appreciated.
Comments
If you have to change plugs and wires, ONLY USE AC DELCO. I've read stories of numerous folks who used NGK or Bosch, only to have recurring problems that went away when the AC Delco plugs and wires were used...
--Robert
touchton, "Transmission Traumas?" #460, 31 Aug 2000 4:19 pm
if I have like an engine surge, I belive I have also heard some popping noise coming from the front of the car, either that, or I'm going nuts here.
Thanks,
Javi.
Clean the throttle body?
From the passenger fender to the driver's looking to the coil pack:
67418325 (cylinder #'s)
I changed my plugs/wires/coils about a year ago (30k miles) and yesterday, I just found out I had 7 and 5 backwards!!! The car always ran fine. Drove to Orlando to Ft. Lauderdale at least 6 times all at high speeds. Then on a simple slurpee run, the car stumbled and ran horribly. Idle shook bad and had no power/bogged. Made it home, pulled the plugs. Cylinder 7's spark plug had carbon black stuff over the platinum tips. Changed plugs, still ran bad. I thought about the coil order, found a pic off ebay with the coil pack and cylinder numbers on top. Gave it and try and BAM! Car the runs the best it has in the 2 years I've had it.
Just I thought, lol...
What puzzles me is what does the starter solenoid have to do with "blower stays on after I turn off the engine"? Is it the HVAC blower or the radiator cooling fan(s)? Either way, indicting the starter solenoid is a stretch.
Les
Do I need to replace these items? What happens if I don't? Can I replace these items myself? The car is running fine.
Needless to say, I'm not happy at the prospect of spending this much money on a problem I wouldn't even know about if it weren't for the engine light.
Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
Aurora has developed a shimmy or body roll at 50mph + on rough pavement. New struts in front and newer rear shocks.
What other suspension parts could be failing to result in this unsettling motion? Thanks
Are the air shocks in the rear still working, or disconnected?
--Robert
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
I'm not sure how that works, but for a $100, I'm not asking.
FYI - I think it pays to throw a fit and mention that your next new vehicle will be a Lexus.
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
T/you. Will
If anyone knows what the contact is on the Aurora i would appreciate it. Im hoping its just a stuck lever or something because all the other doors will activate the light and turn off the radio if I open them. Just not the drivers door.
__________________
I believe they are in part of the door latch itself. Should be a black plastic piece where the latch bar (on the body) goes into the door on the door. Hoped that helped. I know when I work on the inside of mine, I "fake" close the driver's door by rotating the piece on the door latch.
LMK
Thanks
My Mom's 01 Suby driver's side auto-dim mirror apparently leaked it guts out and now looks horrible and is barely useable. But mine still functions as a mirror. Maybe there's a difference between one for outside and one for inside and the obvious model year diff?
Lastly, would I be able to install a newer mirror into my 95? I already successfully installed homelink into my 95 and was wondering if it would be a direct plug and play or not. Looking at like a 97-99 Aurora mirror with a compass is my question. An On-Star mirror wouldn't work. Also what about another GM mirror with compass and temp on the mirror would that worK?
I see a lot of Gentex mirrors on eBay (am going to try to pick one up for my GTO, which is sorely missing autodim/compass/outside temp - just has a basic $1.98 mirror on it)...
--Robert
--Robert
Wiper Motor Replacement
Removal Procedure:
Remove the wiper arms.
Remove the air inlet grille panel.
Remove the three bolts and two nuts retaining the windshield frame reinforcement.
Remove the windshield frame reinforcement.
Pull or push on the wiper transmission linkage to rotate the wiper motor crank arm from the park position to the area opposite the park position.
Remove the harness grommet from the hole in the plenum.
Disconnect the wiper motor harness connector.
Push the harness and grommet through the hole in the plenum.
Remove the three screws retaining the wiper system drive module.
Remove the wiper system drive module from the vehicle.
Remove the drive link from the wiper motor crank arm.
Remove the screws retaining the wiper motor.
Remove the wiper motor from the wiper drive system module.
Installation Procedure:
Install the wiper motor onto the wiper drive system module with the screws.
Tighten the screws to 8 N·m (71 lb in).
Install the drive link onto the wiper motor crank arm.
Lower the wiper module into the upper plenum with the nose of the wiper motor pointing downward.
Rotate the wiper module so that the wiper motor nose points toward the rear of the vehicle.
Install the wiper drive system module with the three screws.
Tighten the three screws to 8 N·m (71 lb in).
Push the harness and grommet through the hole in the plenum.
Connect the wiper motor harness connector.
Install the harness grommet into the hole in the plenum.
Install the windshield frame reinforcement with the three bolts and two nuts.
Tighten the three bolts and two screws to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
Install the air inlet grille panel.
Operate the wipers and check for proper operation
Is there a computer that controls all of these functions????
ENGINE AND BODY?
I diagnosed the problem to be a worn out inner tie rod end. Saturday morning I replaced all inner and outer rod ends. I figured as long as I have to get the car aligned, it would be best to replace all the joints at once. It wasn't a very difficult job to do at all. 90$ for parts, and 55$ for a laser alignment.
Just normal parts that wear out I guess. I can't complain, there are 103,000 on the Odometer!
Has anyone else had to have these parts replaced?
Pete
John