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Thanks ...Candie
Off the top of my head, is it possible that some switches have shorted out, making a "constant on" connection instead of an on-off connection...the ones that come to mind are these: the two switches that are activated when the doors are open, those little push-button switches that are compressed when the doors are closed (I am assuming yours is a 2 door truck, if 4 doors check all four switches)...also, check your dashboard headlamp switch, because when you turn it completely in one direction past the click, that is how you can turn on your interior courtesy lights without opening the door...
Since both of those switches control the courtesy lights (or, at least, what I am calling courtesy lights), if any have broken or shorted out, you may have an "on" connection 24/7 instead of a switch that goes on-off...
Best of all, if you cannot isolate it to one switch, buying 2 door switches and one headlamp switch will be much cheaper that one battery...
Of course, removing the bulb will be the cheapest of all, and will CERTAINLY break the connection, no more battery draw-down...let me know if any of this helps... :confuse: ...Bob
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b27c.gif
It's too late to unravel all this work. Probably the car should have been dealt with entirely differently---but that's in the past, so your only recourse is to at least get it driveable. Perhaps another shop would at least verify that you have a loose or vibrating AC compressor and you can use that diagnosis to demand justice on the repair.
Is it relevant?
Crank has a recess between 1 set of bolt holes. Is this TDC? Does it orient to somewhere specific on the flywheel?
There must be a way to re-orient flywheels for people who forget to mark them or resurface them. After, people replace flywheels with lighter weight ones, and you gotta bolt 'em up somehow!
The crankshaft position sensor appears to work much like BMW ABS sensors, i.e. it detects magnetic variances between the teeth/valleys on the flywheel and thus reports variations in flywheel speed. This is assumed to be misfire, and such is reported to the on-board diagnostics. So, according to the manual, "The sensor is not directly used to control the engine system. It is only used for the onboard diagnosis of misfire."
So, I'm thinking orientation is at best, a matter of balance. But, as flywheels certainly should be pretty well balanced, do I care?
Will stop working today and call a Nissan Dealer tomorrow. But as I find that the advice from this group is often far superior to that of Nissan dealers, I will appreciate insight into correcting my faux pas.
Thank you,
rsarbora
Seattle
One friend suspects it could be my GM AM-FM radio/integrated security alarm gone bad, and I additionally suspect a bad spark plug wire because it only starts happening when the engine gets warm after driving 30 to 60 miles, and the van has nearly 100,000 miles (about time for an expensive tune up with new ignition wires).
Once the engine is warm, the whine doesn't go away but can be quieted drastically (but not completely) by turning off the headlights. It drives me crazy listening to the high speed rpm-whine. (What a strange array of symptoms---only with warm engine, louder when headlights are on---sound is sympathetic to engine rpms----and whine comes through my radar detector, but when I unplug the radar detector it comes through my rear car radio speakers----even if the radio is OFF!)
Yes I have unplugged the power cord to the Radar Detector, and turned the GM AM/FM Radio off, and the noise still comes through this conversion van's rear speakers. Turning the headlights on makes the whining sound much louder, turning the headlights off reduces the sound to almost inaudible but not quite.
Maybe a poor ground somewhere? I am open to suggestions on how to trace this and fix it. Thank you in advance.
Thoughts?
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Thanks,
Candie
I really like the car otherwise,..I think it fits my personality.
Is it worthwhile to put a new engine in that old of a car?
I hate the idea of buying a new car because I dont want to go in debt.If I could get a new engine put in for under 3K$ that would be reliable and dependable for 3 years I would be very happy.
Any suggestions?
Ok, now that I have that out of my system.......................
There are 2 different compressors made for that vehicle. A direct mounted, which I think you have, or a conventional mounted. Conventional means brackets. Direct means the compressor is bolted directly to the head, block or timing cover.
There really isn't any way that you can install the A/C compressor wrong.
It only goes on one way and there is no adjustment for the compressor. It goes on in one spot and that's it.
We're not talking rocket science here. There are 3 bolts, 3 holes. Put the 3 bolts in the 3 holes and it is lined up. Quite ingenious, actually.
Did you ask the "certified" Chevy [odd, it would be a GM certification] mechanic WHY you need a new tensioner???
Is he the mechanic who replaced the other 3 tensioners????????
If he is, he isn't doing you any favors, he should have found out why the other 3 went and worked on fixing the problem.
Usually when there is a tensioner problem, there is a mis-alignment of the belt, tensioner or one of the units that the belt drives. Sometimes aftermarket tensioners will be the culprit. Was it an OEM part??
Add about another 1.0 hour for replacing the timing belt tensioner, which I highly recommend you do.
The cost of the belt is usually around $30-$45 and the cost of the tensioner is about the same.
I have noticed in the last few months that the car would get progressively more difficult to start (it had always started in the blink of an eye before), but today it
refused to start at all. The engine has always ran well, and I have never seen the check engine light come on. I don't know if this is normal as I have never paid attention, but there is a light that does stay on after I stop cranking the engine with the key still in, but I am not sure if it is an oil indicator light or a gas indicator light but I suspect if it is functioning normally as a warning light it is the latter.
I had the car tuned up about 9,000 miles ago (about 3 years). The car is garaged and well maintained, although I am a little overdue for an oil change.
Given this information, I'm wondering what the likely causes anyone can recommend to look for, in order of their likelihood of occurrence.
Given the low miles on the car I guess I would like to hang on to it for a while, OTOH, given its market value I don't want to spend a lot of money fixing it either.
Anyhow, if anyone can help pinpoint this I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks
gwp46
I am VERY concerned that my friend will put in yet a 4th tensioner and the problem won't be resolved and am noting what you have said about the mis-alignment of the betl, tensioner or one of the units that the belt drives.
I'm sorry I don't know what an OEM part is, but if that's what I need, I'll be sure to tell this mechanic to get one. As I said, I've already spent more on the car than I paid for it and the purpose of purchasing it was to have a small economical vehicle...(that didn't happen!)
May I ask you and Mr. Shiftright, what would you do in this case? I need to know "something" before I invest any more $$$ into this vehicle, heck, I haven't even had the pleasure of driving it 500 miles and have repaid for it. Any specifics I need to ask the mechanic or tell him (other than what you have listed?)
Thanks so much, I'm thinking of a bicycle at this point. LOL (But actually I don't find any of this funny, I've obviously been royally ripped off more than once and I'm tired).
Candie
If a new tensioner isn't going to solve my problem and I'm heading down a futile road with this, I'd like to know what the problem is. $260 at a clip x 4 is a lot of money for me for something that in my thinking doesn't seem to be "fixable."
My new GM certified mechanic says he is certaint he car will be fine after he puts in the tensioner. (He is not one to rip me off, that much I know, which was not the case with the other mechanic). But, the question here is indeed, why does it keep happening?
Any thoughts??? Any help??? I'm so disgusted and am not in a position to buy another car....I am disabled and thought this little car was going to be my "dream" car, having had a 1984 Buick Regal until Sept. 2004. Heck, that was less of a problem!!!
Thanks again Mr. Shiftright for any insight you can offer.
Candie
When my new mechanic (friend) came this week and said I neded another new tensioner, he said spark plug #3 was cracked. He replaced it. Spark plugs being new and wires being new made me wonder what happened here too?
Am I just going to have to continually replace brand new parts? What did I buy here? It's got 28,500 miles, outside and inside appearance is excellent, but what's under that hood? Demons?
Thanks, I just thought I'd add this as it seems everything I replace needs rereplacement.
Well I don't see as you have any choice. Your new mechanic sounds confident and he of course is the only one actually looking at the car, so he may know better than we do.
OEM means a factory part, made by Chevrolet, rather than in Malaysia somewhere.
LOL! Ummmm.... you sure its not "made for Chevrolet by a place somewhere in Malaysia"?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
thanks
A/C doesn't work.No cold air whatsoever but it does blow.
Friend says compressor doesn't kick in.
If I add Freon, will compressor & A/C maybe start working ? Is it worth a try?
Car is too old to spend big bucks on fixing air conditioner. However, is there a switch in A/C compressor when Freon is low? Is there a chance A/C will work if I add Freon?
thanks!
ChinaDog
thanks -n8
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/8d/d5/09- 00823d801a8dd5.jsp
Errrrr, you must have mistyped there..., you mean TONS of dollars, don't you?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,