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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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I don't know about the rearend ratio, but I think a truck with your configuration would have a 4.10 gear. My truck has a tag attached to the diff. cover, yours might. I do know our trucks have different rearends.
BTW: You have a very good truck. IMHO, the Ford Superduty is the best total package on the road today. Sure the gas mileage isn't great, but neither are any of the other manufacturers. Once you get this issue worked out, I really think you'll enjoy your truck for many miles to come.
Even my SD with the manual tranny and 5sp, 4.10 it's not a rocket ship. I can easily keep up and pass traffic from light to light, and on the highway. But, if someone were to race me from light to light, I'd just have to let them go. It's tough for a 5000 lbs beast to compete with vehicles that weigh a good 2k less.
If you do more highway than city driving, then the 3.73 should give you better mpg's than the 4.10.
I doubt you'd see enough (or any) of an MPG change going from a 3.73 to 4.10 to justify the $800+ to do the swap.
As someone else mentioned, I can put my SD in neutral and push it around in my level garage. If you can't check for something dragging. (maybe the parking brake?)
00 F250 SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10ls
Bleeding the clutch will temporarily fix it, but the correct repair will either be a new seal kit or a replacement cylinder.
Dealerships don't lose money on warranty work, but they do get paid less than the retail rate.
They are also looked on with suspicion if they do more warranty work than Ford thinks is acceptable.
I would guess that the target Ford sets is lower than the dealer would like.
As far as the mileage goes, it seems to have taken care of itself. I had to take a business trip on Wednesday/Thursday that involved a roughly 400 mile round trip crossing two mountain passes. I was in 4 wheel drive while crossing the passes. When I got to my destination, I noticed that I had only used about a 1/2 tank. I filled the tank and found that I had gotten about 15 miles a gallon. I took a different route on the way back to do a little fishing and had about the same results and that route took me on a very winding and mountainous road. The truck felt like a totally different vehicle during the trip as I had to actually brake going into corners. I figure that whatever was stuck before had broken itself loose when I was crossing the passes. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong, but I kind of figured that they wouldn't based on how the truck was performing. I've got another, longer trip this week so I see if this keeps up. Thanks for all of the advice!
Even a slight uphill, or downhill grade can make a difference.
I try to use the same pump at the same station when I fill up, which has a slight downhill grade.
If you keep statistics over time, the error tends correct itself.
I have a 03 Screw 5.4L with tow package and 3.55LS rear end. I've noticed what appears to be a knocking noise from my rear passenger side tire. It doesn't appear to be any vibrations or anything, but I hear this sound. I can hear it really well on the black, asphalt type surfaces. I can't hear it on concrete surfaces, but I don't know if it's the surface causing the sound or if I just can't hear it on concrete. Is this just tire or road noise? My truck only has about 2K miles on it, so maybe it's just the new General tires. I haven't been to the dealer yet because it doesn't appear to be a vibration, and I don't hear it all the time (but just because I don't hear it doesn't mean it's not there).
Maybe I'm just paranoid, it seems like I'm always looking for things wrong with my new truck instead of focusing on the great things. However, this knocking noise is very annoying. Help!!!!
(then maybe tire related).
if not
does it occur when your doing tight turns, like in parking lots etc? Could be a rear body mount.
All just guesses..
Look at the tire, and make sure you didn't pick up a nail or something. I've had this happen to me where sometimes the nail would either not go all the way through, or it would seal pretty well so there wasn't any air loss, but I could hear the head of the nail hitting the asphalt (click, click), if there wasn't much other noise.
Concrete is a little more rough, so with the additional road noise, or at higher speeds with the additional wind noise, you don't hear it.
Try jacking the truck up, spin the tire by hand, and listen. The tire should also be smooth in spining with no grinding etc.
Could try rotating that tire to a different position, and see if the symptom changes. If it does, then you can be more sure it's just the tire.
Most likely, if you took it to the dealership, they'd do the same types of things. I tend to do stuff like this myself because it's too much of a hassle to drop it off etc.
Drive your truck around for a while so it is at normal operating tempature. Then park it and listen. You'll hear a bunch of clicks and ticking as the exaust system cools down. This is normal, and not indicitive of any type of problem. (My Ranger and SuperDuty both do it). I've known some folks that can hear this while the truck is moving (however I cant). Probably occurs more as the truck is warming up and cooling down.
Is it possible that this is what your hearing?
Good advice on the 2nd opinion..
As to the rear end bearings, they normally do last longer than 140k, unless a leak developed or the axle was submerged in water (like sometimes happens on boatramps or off-roading).
How conscentious were you about changing the axle oil?
The labor seems a little high. Ten hours @ $70 an hour? Bearings are manufactured to very close tolerances and can usually be replaced without resetting the gears. Worst ways, it should only require backlash adjustment.
Always change the oil if there's any possibility of contamination.
If the oil is changed from the factory to a non-syntetic oil, then it (non-synthetic diff oil) should be changed every 3k miles.
So, my question (not to steal lagonzal thread): I never go off-road or go in any conditions that would 'submerge' the axle in water. So should I be somehow 'inspecting' the oil? I do periodically check that the LSD is operating properly.
Anyway, I just checked the official maintenance schedule for my 1993 F150, and the rear axle fluid gets changed at 100,000 miles and the auto trans fluid and filter never gets renewed!
Both the axle and tranny have breathers, but not breathers with filters. It stands to reason that as these units 'breathe' they will draw in moisture, dust and other contaminants. Components in both units will shed substantial wear particles as they go through the initial break in period, then continue at lesser levels due to normal wear.
Personally, I would do a complete lubricant change after 3000 miles (including P/S fluid), and then at every 30,000 miles thereafter (engine oil at every 3000 miles). It's easy to do and it's very cheap insurance if nothing else.
However, I'm sure that there's someone who'll tell us that they're at 300,000 miles, and that they don't do anything except change the engine oil once a year whether it needs it or not!
:-)
I'm interested in your assertion that "THE F 150 HAS THE WORST SAFETY MARKS THEN ANY OTHER VEHICLE MADE IN THE WORLD TODAY".
Could you give a link to where that information might be found?
CR is a great source for review of TV's, toasters, washing machines and diapers. For automobiles, your best bet is to stick with more authoritative sources.
As for the Toy Truck, its OK if you want to pay several thousand dollars more for a less than full size cab, plus a bed that holds substantially less volume. You have to give them credit though, since they copied the F150 front end and dash panel as best they could. However on the new Tundra stepside, that is the ugliest looking butt I've ever seen. The current "old" F150 still kicks everybody's behind in sales, and it will be even more so when the '04 goes on sale.
Sounds interesting either way.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
DUAL WHEEL ADAPTER SET
Converts your single rear wheels to dual for increased payload
Replacement extension bolt and valve stem extenders sold separately
Improves sway control, a must for campers! Heavy-duty steel dual wheel adapters let you use your present wheel and tires together with spare tires (wheels and tires not included). Simple installation with regular lug wrench: 1. Mount first wheel, 2. Screw on extension bolts, 3. Slip on adapter, 4. Mount second wheel. Fit trucks and trailers with drop-center or standard wheels. Use only with standard width rims and tires. Not for vans with sliding side door or use with aluminum wheels, original-equipment dual wheels or Budd wheels. 2 adapters, extension bolts and instructions included.
.....costs around $360
together with these:.....
REAR FIBERGLASS FENDERS
Rustproof and shock resistant
Perfect with dual wheel adapters
No costly body work—just trim and bolt on. Ready-to-paint gelcoat finish. Installs with regular hand tools. Instructions included. Additional fender extension required depending on application. Some trimming and modification/extension of gas filler tube may be required
....... also costs about $360.
But I can't say that I'd do it myself.
Maybe he'd like to tell us how much he was asking for his F350, and if he's still thinking about doing the conversion?
If your only going to tow it once or twice a year, then you can probably get away with the F150. However, if more often than that, you'll probably want to go to an F250.
I guess my concern is: Shouldnt the V10 have enough power to tow 6500 lbs without hunting?