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1. Tire noise on dry pavement is down and is a different type of noise. Probably the best way to describe it is the noise is less bass--more midrange and a lower volume.
2. Ride has definitely changed and these tires are more sensitive to pressure change than the old Bridgestones. When first put on the pressure was set to 30 psi and the ride was good but felt a little soft. After trying a few different pressures, I set them to 32 psi and the handling is improved, rolling resistance seems to be better, but ride quality got a little harsher but acceptable. To get the same effect on the old Bridestones would have required going to at least 34-35 psi. 32psi seems like my sweet spot for these new tires.
3. Whether it is just psychological or real, my confidence level in driving my SF in bad weather is higher. It just feels more planted and sure-footed.
4. Gas mileage seems to be up some but that is questionable right now due to cold weather and winter gas. The real test for this will come as the weather warms up around here and we get some good gas. I'll drop in again when I have more info to report.
Secondly, for $199 you could navigate easily with a smartphone plugged into your MP3 input. True the screen would be small but you'd have audible directions through your speakers. Verizon's NAV is free with their phones and it's a *great* system. AND there's never an update needed--it's all automatically done.
Last of all, you might check into the cost of aftermarket, in-dash NAV and balance that cost against the $199. As you know, there's nothing as old as old tech.
Thanks for all replies.
OK, first thing to do is to remove the glove compartment door limiters and the single slider on the right , there are two limiters on each side. it allows the door to hang freely, more room to work.
your going to need either a smalll needle nose plyers or a very small screw drive.
with the screw driver pry on top of the cover near the broken tab, pull the tab up. do the same for the left upper tab. the bottom tabs are fairly easy to reach. once pry the tabs pull the tray out.
the tray cost about $13 at the dealer ship. to be honest if you master the technique with these tools you wont need to buy another tray. the tray still will work with out the broken taps,
hope this helps.
I called Hyundai Roadside Assistance, and they arranged for a flatbed to tow it to the nearest dealer even later that night. Two days later, the dealer replaced the Throttle Position Sensor per TSB, and reprogrammed the ECM. The repair and tow were both covered under warranty. I am very satisfied with the service from Hyundai Roadside Assistance.
We haven't used up a tank of gas since the repair, but the average fuel economy has improved from 17 mpg to 19 mpg (she does mostly city/country driving).
We've found a 2003 2.4l 4 cylinder Santa Fe with 137k on the clock that is listed for $7000 (I think we can haggle down to about $5700). The car seems in pretty good nick.
But I have a couple of concerns that I was hoping you guys could help me with (please excuse my general car ignorance):
1) The coolant level was quite low (are leaks quite common? as long as we keep it topped up is that ok? or is this indicative of something else?)
2) There was a small leak of a red transparent oil coming from approximately the middle of the engine and running along a seam (is this the crank case??). Is this just a bit of engine oil or is transmission oil? I've looked at the reviews on this site and most people love the Santa Fe, but the ones who don't have had problems with the transmission. Is this indicative of a major problem, or is small leak ok and perhaps expected in an older car? I had a look at the engine oil on the dipstick and this seemed to be a similar red colour.
Cheers.
I have a 2008 Santa Fe with about 75,000 miles. I've had no issues with my car, knock on wood, and really do enjoy driving it. I'm very good about maintenance, and I like and feel confident about the service I get at my dealership. I pretty much evaluate their recommendations after a service and typically follow through because I feel they are in line with the manufacturer's recommendations. Recently, they made a recommendation that the vehicle needed a power steering system fluid exchange, as their inspection revealed that the power steering fluid is "dirty/contaminated". I would expect that from a 3 year old vehicle. I've checked my use and care manual, and it does not list this as a recommended routine service. I'm not experiencing any problems with my power steering...no noises, etc. However, I don't want any problems either. I do a fair amount of weekly highway driving, and our NH winters can be harsh. I'm wondering if this is really a necessary service for something that is not currently a problem. What are your thoughts on the priority of this recommendation? How routine is it? Thanks for helping me sort this out!
Aloftylady
Like any other fluid in your vehicle, the power steering fluid does break down and get dirty. The question is does it need to be changed? In my opinion, I think it's a good idea to replace it. There are tiny amounts of metal that break down from the moving parts within the steering hydraulic system. These will contaminate the fluid and can cause wear. Having it changed is good insurance that you won't have any trouble down the road.
One of the tricks I've used in the past, is placing a steel fuel filter in the return line of the hydraulic hoses that run from the PS pump. This will catch a lot of the metal chips that can be present in the system. This was especially an issue with '80's GM vehicles, as they had bad steering racks and the metal chips would eat up the PS pumps. Then you would have to replace the pump and the rack. Very expensive, indeed.
I have a problem and I'm hoping someone can help:
A couple of weeks ago we had really heavy rain and I got stuck into a flooded street, got water all the way up to the middle of the doors, water inside the car, until it finally stopped, got all the lights on, but car would not start, we were expecting it was because it had gotten wet,
We waited until the next day but engine would not start, It does not give us the Check engine light, and mechanic says it does not have the ignition spark.
In the attempt to get it to start, they have tested the computer and it works, we tried changing it and nothing, we changed the ignition module, we reviewed the entire "harness" and it shows charge everywhere its supposed to, really do not know where else to look...
Any ideas if this car has some kind of sensor or plug that is sensitive to moisture or humidity that might be preventing the car to start?
REALLY REALLY WILL APPRECIATE ANY HELP I CAN GET!
Thank you
if you can,
it sounds like your have a bad solenoid in your transmissions valve body.
if you are under warranty you need to have it check
there is a big chance your adaptive shift logic is not holding the program, that's why when you re-start the car it runs ok.
how many miles do you currently have?
thank you
I have seen posts that go unresponded to for weeks, even months.
I joined an ACURA MDX Forum back in 2000 that a posting usually generated a half dozen responses before the day was over. Is there a different breed that purchases the Japanese product over the Korean or has the amount of knowledge to be shared ?
I posted a question dealing with Climate Control on the Sante Fe Forum over a month ago and the only response I got was another issue. This Forum can be a valuable tool, but you need to be willing to participate and share your input.
You have to remember that this topic is pretty specific--it tries to solicit only 2007+ Sante Fe owners, so it's a narrowly-focused topic.
Visiting Host from Answers
As near as I can calculate, there were only 13 posts to all the Sante Fe Threads last week, including mine and yours. Often you see an issue or question posted and no one replies or it comes several weeks/months later.
You moderators should have to contribute, only on rare occasions.
I'm not sure why my last post went to the Maintainence and Repair Thread, but I had hoped that my viewpoints on participation would generate increased input from Forum members. Could you please move it to somewhere where it might be more visable.
One reason we started ANSWERS was to help people who needed ONE answer ONE time RIGHT AWAY. So we are certainly trying to fill all the gaps.
Not too many concerns about buying/leasing etc.
It stalled after I heard a subtle clunk then the gas paddle went dead - no matter hard I pressed it the truck would not accelerate so I carefully pulled the car off of the busy Interstate with a big tractor trailer barrelling down on me. The truck was still running when I pulled over but it would not accelerate. I turned it off, waited a few minutes, re-started it, then it accelerated, however with the engine still on.
The next morning the engine light went off. I didn't drive it again until yesterday. While on the Beltway again this time in Maryland the truck exhibited the same behavior. Mind you - I drive 49 miles to work one-way and I was in the left lane with usual Washington Beltway traffic and this truck is dying on my. I was within 7 miles from work and successfully pulled over. The engine was still running but although I turned the car on and off multiple times - it would not accelerate. Finally after about 5 agonizing minutes, it started, accelerated and I was able to go to work.
Coming back that night while traveling through DC on I295 it did it again and I pulled over while in a bad, bad neighborhood, luckily cops were around while I coasted to a stop hoping the truck would gain momentum but it didn't. After a minute or so, I restarted it and I made it home to Virginia.
My son works at a Hyundai dealer so I he took it in this morning and they said it was a throttle body issue and they ordered the part and will fix it tomorrow. I am dissapointed. I've owned 10 Hondas and never, ever experienced anything like this. My Hondas weren't perfect but none of them ever experienced any issue like this.
I also experienced my 2010 Genesis brake lights switch go bad and power driver seat short out, so it's just not the Sante Fe.
I guess no matter what you say about Honda, they just have an edge over Hyundai in quality control although they cost more.
I doesn't bode well for my future decision to buy other products from Hyundai. I shouldn't have a 2011 anything, put me down on any road, anywhere.
This is my third Hyundai. I purchased a new 2000 Tiburon for my son in college. He then passed it on to my younger son. 5 years economical and trouble free service. In 2003 I purchased a new Tiburon V6 GT for my wife. Even though it was the first year of that model it is now 8 years old and has been completely trouble free. Okay, the sliding sunroof inside shade is no longer attached to the sunroof so you have to slide it open by hand and the radio display washes out sometimes. That's it. And I still have over 2 years left on my warranty.
Last month my best friends daughter was in a head on collision at 40 mph in her 2007 Santa Fe when a Honda driver bent down to get his cell phone or something and swerved into oncoming traffic. The Santa Fe did everything it was supposed to. Engine dropped, front end crumpled, airbags deployed. A little bruised and a lot shaken up, she walked away without a scratch. One week later she bought a new 2011 Santa Fe.
My point is while it is unfortunate you have had some problems with your Hyundai's I want you to realize in my experience these are very well engineered safe and reliable vehicles. I'm sure once these items are fixed you will have many miles of trouble free service.
this cars have issues with their lower ball joints, check tsb on santa fe 07-09
I've owned this Santa Fe for about 6 months and a week ago this issue started:
When I park and turn off car and remove key, radio stays on and the door chime sounds as if the key is still in and the car is in ACC. It's not! The key is in LOCK and removed.
The key fob will not lock the doors in this condition so I am locking them manually from inside.
After a little while I can use the key fob to lock the car (lights flash, etc) and I can also unlock it (door chime stops).
Where do I start?
Thanks in advance
if not you need to have this issued repaired tru the warranty,
there is a chance the service dept. have to issued a new key for your ignition.
:shades:
Thanks for any help