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Now my Question - We leased a 2006 Mercedes R500 at the end of the model year when factory and dealer incentives were too good to be true and R sales were in the toilet. We drove off with an R sporting a $62k+ MSRP for 27 months at $508 per month, nothing down other than 1st month payment and MB bank fee. $16k+ in cap cost reductions all came from MB USA and the dealer. While the cap cost along with a decent MF and residual yielded a great monthly payment, the cap cost and likely unrealistic residual are going to kill me at lease end. The 67% residual gives a lease buy out of $42k (for those who dont know it is based on MSRP NOT capitalized cost). Given the revised pricing of the R in 2007 and overall poor sales, there is no way this thing will be selling for $42k in 27 months - 2006 R500s are selling for high 40s after less than 12 months!!
I already know that I want to keep my R at the end of the lease - So my question is does MB USA negotiate lease end buy outs? I know some manufacturers like Honda maintain a "no negotiation" policy. Also since $10k of the cap cost reduction came from MB USA is there any argument that it should have reduced or did reduce the MSRP for purposes of calculating the residual? Assuming MB negotiates, is it fair at the time to see what dealers are selling similar used cars for and shoot for a value a few thousand less than dealer asking price recognizing that it costs money to go over/prep/clean an off lease car, warranty it, build in dealer profit and carrying cost?? Realistically, this car is likely to be worth somewhere in the mid to high $30s at the end of the 27 month lease with 30k miles.
thanks for your help!
The MSRP was about $47,000, and I got it for $39,180 plus tax and license. I also got the extended warranty for 7 years for $1500, down from $2195. I know they have to 08s coming soon, but I don't need a bigger SUV with an even thirstier engine!
If you didn't get the RAV4, sorry for guessing wrong. :shades:
The shot bed has bedliner, do I still need to buy a bed mat in order to carry some hard stuff (like paver)?
Thanks.
I got a question that I am not sure where I could find some help. I got a 2003 VW GTI that is making a loud whomping noise when I am going from about 25mph to 10mph. The car makes this noise whether the car is in gear or not (It's a manual). Currently the car has 40K miles.
It seems like it is coming from underneath the engine. It also shakes the car a little bit. The noise follows the speed of the car, meaning that when I am slowing down, the frequency of the noise also slows down.
I just had a 40K mile maintenance done at the dealer, but I can't take it back until tuesday, and I was planning on doing a 700mile trip with the car on monday.
Does anyone have any idea what this could be?
Thanks in advance for any help!!
Check out this thread too (plug wire loose?):
bluedevils, "Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair" #3178, 19 Mar 2007 7:05 am
Meanwhile, join the Mazda CX-7 discussion with real world owners who have their feet firmly planted on the ground. Be sure to check out the various topics in the Mazda CX-7 group.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Will US dealers take trade-ins? (2001 Montana)
When you get to the border and need to pay duty/gst, etc will they accept a credit card or do you need cash?
I am especially interested to hear from anyone who has imported a new KIA from US to Ontario regarding your personal experience/problems/etc.
Thanks,
If anyone else has had this problem, please post what was done to fix it. Thanx
Thanks,
Ben
If you're looking for help with a specific problem, the Search Forums and Advanced search in the left sidebar can help you home in on things. For example, searching for "outback stalling" in the advanced search would get you to posts about that specific issue. Give it a shot!
I have a 2000 grand cherokee ltd with 4.7L v8. 4WD 94,000 miles. Over the past several months we have had recurring problems with it running very rough and sometimes cutting off. Here is the history.
About 2 years ago replaced the fuel pump and filter.
Recently started rough idle, up and down rpm when idling, whole car rocks side to side, sometimes cuts off. Also tends to have a hard shift from transmission from time to time.
Took to mechanic - did fuel injector and throttle body cleaning and replaced spark plugs. Ran great a few days and problem returned.
Took back to mechanic and he redid fuel injector and throttle body cleaning. Worked fine another week or two and problem started again.
Took back to mechanic and he replaced the throttle control sensor. This worked for about 2 weeks. Then problem started again.
This time took to Jeep Dealer. They replaced purge solenoid. This worked for about 1 month and problem has started again.
:mad:
Any ideas?
I hate to keep dumping money into the jeep. It also needs front and rear pinion seals, transmission adapter seals, and cv boots. Need to decide to spend a little more to fix or trade it.
thanks
I think that would end up offering me choices I never might have thought of otherwise and give me a sense of what I can shop for.
Thanks for any help.
It'll ask for a brand and zip code, but once you click through there's a place to put the price range you are interested in and it won't limit your search by make or model (unless you enter something in those search fields). It's through AutoTrader, an Edmunds partner.
Once you decide on a car, check out the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences board for real world deals.
Somebody is always collecting something!
Thanks for your help!
In general, you'll find that you get a better and faster response by placing your questions in an existing discussion rather than creating one that has to be discovered by other users.
The search tools in the left sidebar can help you find existing discussions. Just choose the make and model using the Browse By Vehicle tool to find discussions about a specific vehicle for example.
If it turns out that you have a topic for discussion that isn't covered under one of the existing discussions, by all means use the Add a Discussion link to start it up.
If you have any questions, feel free to click my username or the username of any other host and we'll be happy to point you in the right direction.
Anyway, my main concern was getting an appraisal on my trade-in, since if they weren't going to offer me much I would keep the car, sell it for more on my own and come back.
To make a long story short, after about 2 hours of haggling on trade in and car price, we can't come to a deal as they don't want to offer anything close to the KBB trade-in value, which is fine. I thank them for their time, and after going through the "wait, my GM wants to talk to you, etc." and them playing "hide the keys" we finally leave.
Salesman calls back a week later, and basically says "we had your trade-in registration stapled to your paperwork and forgot to give it back to you. Can you come back down and get it?"
Of course I don't buy this for a second, they intentionally kept it so I would have to come back (numerous other unsavory tactics when I was there earlier confirm this in my mind). I told them I needed it because I had people looking at the car that upcoming weekend (true) let alone if I get pulled over driving and told them to FedEx it to me, and they said they would. Of course, 2 weeks later I still don't have it. Do I have any recourse here? I am not going to spend 1.5-2 hours of my time and gas driving back there to get my registration back.