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    irishrogue1irishrogue1 Member Posts: 127
    First let me say thank you to all of the hosts and readers/contributors - this forum/board is a great source of information for so many things automotive!!

    Now my Question - We leased a 2006 Mercedes R500 at the end of the model year when factory and dealer incentives were too good to be true and R sales were in the toilet. We drove off with an R sporting a $62k+ MSRP for 27 months at $508 per month, nothing down other than 1st month payment and MB bank fee. $16k+ in cap cost reductions all came from MB USA and the dealer. While the cap cost along with a decent MF and residual yielded a great monthly payment, the cap cost and likely unrealistic residual are going to kill me at lease end. The 67% residual gives a lease buy out of $42k (for those who dont know it is based on MSRP NOT capitalized cost). Given the revised pricing of the R in 2007 and overall poor sales, there is no way this thing will be selling for $42k in 27 months - 2006 R500s are selling for high 40s after less than 12 months!!

    I already know that I want to keep my R at the end of the lease - So my question is does MB USA negotiate lease end buy outs? I know some manufacturers like Honda maintain a "no negotiation" policy. Also since $10k of the cap cost reduction came from MB USA is there any argument that it should have reduced or did reduce the MSRP for purposes of calculating the residual? Assuming MB negotiates, is it fair at the time to see what dealers are selling similar used cars for and shoot for a value a few thousand less than dealer asking price recognizing that it costs money to go over/prep/clean an off lease car, warranty it, build in dealer profit and carrying cost?? Realistically, this car is likely to be worth somewhere in the mid to high $30s at the end of the 27 month lease with 30k miles.

    thanks for your help!
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    bigemike8bigemike8 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2007 4x2 Limited, with the following options: Z1(preferred accessory pkg), EY(DVD system), NV(navigation), HP(hood protector), E5(exhaust tip), RF(rear spoiler), WL(wheel locks)
    The MSRP was about $47,000, and I got it for $39,180 plus tax and license. I also got the extended warranty for 7 years for $1500, down from $2195. I know they have to 08s coming soon, but I don't need a bigger SUV with an even thirstier engine!
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    hobb35hobb35 Member Posts: 1
    Im having all kinds of issues with my 2007 dodge 2500 cummins with a 6 speed automatic transmission. The service center at the dealership started to admit there were problems but then after having my truck for a few days came back to me and said that chrysler claims these are normal sounds and reactions. I have taken it in on three separate occasions and they are saying that they will not do any more for me. What advice can someone give me? Has anyone else had these types of problems? Specifically, clunking noises in the transmission when first accelerating and also decelerating. Grinding and shimmying affects when accelerating in first gear. Please give me any advice or information you have and how to go about this to get further assistance from chrysler. THIS IS NOT NORMAL>.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks for the kind words Irishrogue1. I think the Mercedes-Benz R-Class: Lease Questions discussion would be the place to ask about the buy out. You may find Lease Termination Fees and other costs of interest too.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Congrats on the new ride - compare notes (and report on your deal) in the Toyota RAV4: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion.

    If you didn't get the RAV4, sorry for guessing wrong. :shades:
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try asking in the Dodge Ram: Transmission Problems discussion for advice.
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    thomasr1950thomasr1950 Member Posts: 76
    What is the difference other than pricing on the 08 over the 07?
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Best place to ask this would be in the 2008 Tacoma discussion over in the Tacoma group.
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    thomasr1950thomasr1950 Member Posts: 76
    What is the biggest difference between the 07 & 08 dbl cab sr5 prerunner? Is there enough to justify getting an 08 rather than saving the money on a 07. Also what are people paying for a dbl cab sr5 prerunner, no other options?
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Try asking that in the discussion pf_flyer linked for you in poat 1691. This discussion is a place to get help on where to post rather than get help on specific vehicle issues. I'm sure the folks hanging out in the 08 Tacoma discussion will be able to answer your questions.
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    quinn2quinn2 Member Posts: 2
    I just get a Frontier 4WD SE Crew Cab, running great.

    The shot bed has bedliner, do I still need to buy a bed mat in order to carry some hard stuff (like paver)?

    Thanks.
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Try posting in one of the discussions in the Frontier group. The people who can help with this are hanging out there.
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    dlebar04dlebar04 Member Posts: 6
    Hello Forum! First of all, this is a great place for info :) From buying to owning to selling. I love this place.

    I got a question that I am not sure where I could find some help. I got a 2003 VW GTI that is making a loud whomping noise when I am going from about 25mph to 10mph. The car makes this noise whether the car is in gear or not (It's a manual). Currently the car has 40K miles.

    It seems like it is coming from underneath the engine. It also shakes the car a little bit. The noise follows the speed of the car, meaning that when I am slowing down, the frequency of the noise also slows down.

    I just had a 40K mile maintenance done at the dealer, but I can't take it back until tuesday, and I was planning on doing a 700mile trip with the car on monday.

    Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

    Thanks in advance for any help!! :)
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try asking in Volkswagen GTI Maintenance and Repair. You may get a quicker suggestion in Got a Quick, Technical Question? though.

    Check out this thread too (plug wire loose?):

    bluedevils, "Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair" #3178, 19 Mar 2007 7:05 am
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    dlebar04dlebar04 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks Steve! :)
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    mrinventormrinventor Member Posts: 2
    My local dealer in LA has received his first 2008 CX-7's and I took a look yesterday. On the left side of the engine where an engine mount should be there is a can about the size of an oil filter. The salesman explained that it was an explosive device and in the event of a crash it would propel the engine up and out of the way. Is this for real? Has anyone had this happen on their 2007? What does it cost to put the engine back in, or is it hopeless? Could it go off in a minor accident?
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    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Look for another dealer. This one is warped.

    Meanwhile, join the Mazda CX-7 discussion with real world owners who have their feet firmly planted on the ground. Be sure to check out the various topics in the Mazda CX-7 group.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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    bld2bld2 Member Posts: 2
    I am considering purchasing a Kia Sedona in Buffalo, NY and brining it back to Ontario. I have already gotten a lot of good info from this site and the RIV site but have a few remaining questions.

    Will US dealers take trade-ins? (2001 Montana)

    When you get to the border and need to pay duty/gst, etc will they accept a credit card or do you need cash?

    I am especially interested to hear from anyone who has imported a new KIA from US to Ontario regarding your personal experience/problems/etc.

    Thanks,
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Check out this discussion: Importing Car into Canada from US.
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    clipper06clipper06 Member Posts: 1
    Our '06 HH has stalled while in traffic four times now and it would be good to know if anyone else has had this problem (and found the fix). When driving in stop and go traffic at 5 - 10 MPH after ten minutes, the warning lights and bells go off and all power to the wheels shuts off. Once we coast to a full stop, put it in Park and switch off the ignition it will start back up and off we go again (with the "Check Hybrid Synergy System" reading in the display. Our Toyota dealer has been helpful and replaced several sensors so far. Since this problem happens in traffic, it has been un-nerving to say the least.

    If anyone else has had this problem, please post what was done to fix it. Thanx
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    terrysmarkterrysmark Member Posts: 2
    I have been trying to locate a repair manual for Mark VIII. There does not seem to be anything specifically for this model.
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Try posting this question in the Toyota Highlander Hybrid Engine Questions discussion. The HH owners posting there should be able to give you a hand.
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Try asking on the Owners Manuals discussion. Shoudl be able to get some suggestions on where to find one there.
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    tcryantcryan Member Posts: 2
    a couple of nights ago the headlights went off and wont turn on. its a pull switch. the tail lights and back blinkers work, but the front blinkers and lights wont. help.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
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    mcodermcoder Member Posts: 5
    I am having trouble finding information on the O-rings used on the high and low pressure pipe at the evaporator. I went to an auto parts store and ordered an O-ring set for the A\C system, when I picked up the O-ring set there wasn't any information on which O-rings went where. I bought a Chilton's book but that was a dead end. I disconnected the high & low pipes and found what looks like a wiper instead of a O-ring. I replaced the so called wiper with the identical part in the new O-ring set but it did't hold pressure. I am at a lose as what to do, Please help.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I don't see an active L-Series repair discussion; try asking in Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars.
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    bes001bes001 Member Posts: 6
    I am unable to find the command to start a new discussion. I always have to post as a reply. Am I missing something? I have a very specific question about a Subaru and ended up posting it in the "Subaru Crew" topic as a reply because it has the most views...

    Thanks,
    Ben
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    What you want to do is scan the discussion list to find the most appropriate discussion for your question so that you're asking it where that issue is being discussed.

    If you're looking for help with a specific problem, the Search Forums and Advanced search in the left sidebar can help you home in on things. For example, searching for "outback stalling" in the advanced search would get you to posts about that specific issue. Give it a shot!
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    cosmo1950cosmo1950 Member Posts: 11
    What's up with all the photos we posted? All I get is the error, "this page cannot be whatever". :confuse:
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    pcjeeppcjeep Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I have a 2000 grand cherokee ltd with 4.7L v8. 4WD 94,000 miles. Over the past several months we have had recurring problems with it running very rough and sometimes cutting off. Here is the history.
    About 2 years ago replaced the fuel pump and filter.
    Recently started rough idle, up and down rpm when idling, whole car rocks side to side, sometimes cuts off. Also tends to have a hard shift from transmission from time to time.
    Took to mechanic - did fuel injector and throttle body cleaning and replaced spark plugs. Ran great a few days and problem returned.
    Took back to mechanic and he redid fuel injector and throttle body cleaning. Worked fine another week or two and problem started again.
    Took back to mechanic and he replaced the throttle control sensor. This worked for about 2 weeks. Then problem started again.
    This time took to Jeep Dealer. They replaced purge solenoid. This worked for about 1 month and problem has started again.
    :mad:
    Any ideas?

    I hate to keep dumping money into the jeep. It also needs front and rear pinion seals, transmission adapter seals, and cv boots. Need to decide to spend a little more to fix or trade it.
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Sounds like you need to post in the Jeep Grand Cherokee quits intermittently discussion
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There's been some server glitches today so that's probably why some photos aren't showing up for you.
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    dannymwilsondannymwilson Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced the brake master cylinder on my 95 Ford Aerostar. Now the power assist doesn't work. Any idea what I missed when I put the new one in?
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    One of the discussions in the Aerostar group should be a good place to ask. The general brake issues discussion in Maintenance & Repair might be helpful as well.
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    dilsarvdilsarv Member Posts: 2
    HELP! i am tired of not knowing what the mechanic is saying to me or if he's ripping me off. is there any book out there that will fill me in on the basics of a 2001 nissan pathfinder? or a class i could take to not feel so foolish? :confuse:
    thanks
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Best place to start would be to head to the Nissan Pathfinder Group and start picking the brains of the Pathfinder owners discussing their vehicles there.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
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    butterbumblebutterbumble Member Posts: 1
    Does this tool exist: Where I can put in the maximum price I can afford to pay for used vehicle and the tool tells me what used vehicles sell at that price (private party or dealership).

    I think that would end up offering me choices I never might have thought of otherwise and give me a sense of what I can shop for.

    Thanks for any help.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you go to the Used Car link at Edmunds.com, the first thing you'll see at the top is a Find Your Next Car link.

    It'll ask for a brand and zip code, but once you click through there's a place to put the price range you are interested in and it won't limit your search by make or model (unless you enter something in those search fields). It's through AutoTrader, an Edmunds partner.

    Once you decide on a car, check out the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences board for real world deals.
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    wilbur1954wilbur1954 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1964 dyna-vision electronic engine analyzer in good working condition and would like to find out what it is worth and who might be interested in buying
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    While we don;t allow buying and selling of itmes on the forums, you might want to post your question in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion. A fair number of really handy folks and auto techs that post in that discussion might be able to give you some feedback on the value of it.

    Somebody is always collecting something! ;)
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    jswolffjswolff Member Posts: 3
    I'm looking for the best Front Hood Bug/Rock Deflector for my Lexus RX 300 on the market...all the ones on the Net I've seen so far do not come down far enough around the grill to prevent rock chips on the most exposed section of the hood.

    Thanks for your help!
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'd ask for opinions in the Lexus RX 300 discussion. Check out Bug guards, protective bras & film too (maybe you'd like the film?).
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    bth97taurusshobth97taurussho Member Posts: 5
    :D:D for a 97 taurus sho v8 3.2. we have the keyless remote to the car but we want the keyless door code too. we have the manual but there is no code in it. can someone help us out with where the code is. the dealer that we buy it from said that he didnt have the code for it.SO PLEASE HELP US OUT THANKS
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try asking in the Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair discussion.
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    buckleymbuckleym Member Posts: 6
    why is it so hard to post? lets keep it simple guys????????????????
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    You'll find that Add a Discussion link at the top at most of the boards here (the Maintenence & repair board being an exception) but in with the number of discussions we have, chances are that there's an existing discussion where your question would be appropriate.

    In general, you'll find that you get a better and faster response by placing your questions in an existing discussion rather than creating one that has to be discovered by other users.

    The search tools in the left sidebar can help you find existing discussions. Just choose the make and model using the Browse By Vehicle tool to find discussions about a specific vehicle for example.

    If it turns out that you have a topic for discussion that isn't covered under one of the existing discussions, by all means use the Add a Discussion link to start it up.

    If you have any questions, feel free to click my username or the username of any other host and we'll be happy to point you in the right direction.
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    jaydee49jaydee49 Member Posts: 7
    Not sure where to post this but could use some advice. Dealer about 45-60 minutes away had the exact car in stock that I wanted so I made a trip there to take a look. Brought in my current car to trade in (I have about 6-8k in equity depending on value).

    Anyway, my main concern was getting an appraisal on my trade-in, since if they weren't going to offer me much I would keep the car, sell it for more on my own and come back.

    To make a long story short, after about 2 hours of haggling on trade in and car price, we can't come to a deal as they don't want to offer anything close to the KBB trade-in value, which is fine. I thank them for their time, and after going through the "wait, my GM wants to talk to you, etc." and them playing "hide the keys" we finally leave.

    Salesman calls back a week later, and basically says "we had your trade-in registration stapled to your paperwork and forgot to give it back to you. Can you come back down and get it?"

    Of course I don't buy this for a second, they intentionally kept it so I would have to come back (numerous other unsavory tactics when I was there earlier confirm this in my mind). I told them I needed it because I had people looking at the car that upcoming weekend (true) let alone if I get pulled over driving and told them to FedEx it to me, and they said they would. Of course, 2 weeks later I still don't have it. Do I have any recourse here? I am not going to spend 1.5-2 hours of my time and gas driving back there to get my registration back.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yikes - sounds like a story for Why don't dealers want to make money?
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