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However, the first thing to do, is to check the diagnostic code for your problem. It's an easy thing to do on the JGC (at least on my 2000 JGC it is). With the vehicle not running, turn the key toward ACC (backward or opposite of starting) once, then back to the original position. Perform this three times. On the third attempt, the "P" diagnostic code will be displayed in the same area as your odometer, followed by the word "done". Perform an internet search for Jeep diagnostic codes, to find the reason for your problem.
Realize that this may be a false code; i.e. something that doesn't really indicate the true problem. As I said, many of the older Jeeps are experiencing problems with gauges not working, in conjunction with dashboard lights being lit up. No one appears to have a resolution for this. If you take the vehicle to a dealership, they'll probably attempt to change the PCM and/or BCM, which will cost you a pretty penny. Rest assured, that won't solve the problem.
Check other online boards like CNET, but you won't find much in the way of help. Sorry.
I own a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7, i drove it yesterday and it was running great, now today it will not turn over,when you open the hood you smell a strong electrics burning under the battery? Does anybody know why i am getting a strong smell of electrics burning and would this stop the truck from turning over.
Also i replaced the battery last week. :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Jeep GC 2001
- wipers stopped working about a month ago. then a few days later started working again
- tailgate power lock stopped working a week or two ago. works sometimes but mostly not
- today, blinkers would not work. Lever on steering column goes up and down, but no "clicking" or arrows showing on dash.
Anyone have any thoughts?
and somewhat related, How do you check or change the fuses in the box under the hood?
thanks- E Kamer
For the past few months the 'Check Oil Level' Message has been coming up on the computer notification system over and over again. I have changed and checked the oil several times, added 2 extra quarts, and done everything I can think of to get it to stop. I am wondering, what are my options here.. Is there a way I can disconnect or remove something to atleast get it to shut off?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
tonight when i cranked it up i have my lights on auto and they would not come on,i have to twist it to "on"... where it shows how many miles to empty,miles to service, outside temp etc... on the roof its showing -- ..... my radio works and dash lights, when i twist my lights all the way off my radio lights go off but not the ones in the dash. oh yea and at the same time this happened my ac is not cooling
The skinny: '04 Jeep JGC Limited SOHC. I replaced the battery in May of 2009. At the time, the terminals were showing evidence of corrosion and I stupidly did not clean the cables. But, I did clean them off in January of 2010.
The issue: Car will not start right away. Problem goes away for a couple weeks, then comes back. No electronics will work. But fiddling with ignition, pumping brakes (don't ask me why...), doing an Irish jig, taking a pen cap and chewing 7 times, then wait for about 1-2 minutes, starts up just fine. Sometimes, I go into a store and depending how long I'm gone, it will not start right away. If it sits for a better part of the day, it'll start just fine.
But, the clock resets to 12. However, the radio presets are all still there. Seat memory still there. No other problems. Car drives fine, shifts fine, everything. Oh, but third brake light in hatch is out (and I think this has been out for a very long time).
Symptoms: It all started with the car not wanting to turn over, so I tried a couple more times and started up just fine. Then, my wife had similar issue a couple weeks after that. Then, a couple weeks later, I had same issue but started noticing other things other than the car not wanting to start. No sounds, no clicking, just no nothing. Then, for some unknown reason, it starts up as if nothing was wrong.
Here's what I've noticed the half-dozen times or so it's happened:
When I shut car off and remove ignition key, the driver's seat does not move back. I open the door, no interior lights, nothing. Can't lock it with key fob, nothing.
When I put ignition key back in and to the ACC position, the needles in all the guages flicker up and down/back and forth about a quarter inch. And, I hear a clicking sound from under the dash or hood (not sure which). I try to turn it over, needles in gauges stop and absolutely nothing happens.
Recently, my wife noticed the malfunction warning light come on for a day, but I drove it the next day and did not get a warning light at all.
The transmission fluid needs to be changed and recently had passenger side window regulator replaced but this problem has been going on since before the regulator went out.
I'm now thinking that it's a control module. Would it be the PCM? Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? I really don't want to spend a grand I don't have.
I've heard the dealer has to re-program the PCM when it has been replaced. Is this true?
1. Airbag light comes on intermittenly
Sometimes I can go a whole week without it coming on and sometimes it will come on and off every 10 seconds or so and drive me insane. What's causing this? I tried and see if turning the steering wheel slowly to see if it does at a certain angle, but it comes on randomly at whatever angle... whenever it feels like it.
2. Pedal adjust
For some reason, the accelator is stuck on the furthest setting and the brake pedal is stuck on the closest setting. This makes for a rather awkward motion whenever I have to stop since I basically have to heave my foot over and up 12 inches to stop. How do I fix this?
3. Passenger seat tilt stuck
I can hear the motor sluggishly humming, but the far right and far left switches don't move the seat at all. The middle one still moves the seat backward and forward fine, just not tilt or elevate.
4. Squeaking noise underneath
Whenever I stop or go over a speed bump, there is a squeaking noise. It's not the brakes because I know what that sounds like, but this one sounds like it's coming from the suspension. What's causing it? Better yet, how do I fix it?
Help, please?
Stalling problem is not there in winter on Highways. I can drive 500 to 600 km in one go. But as soon as it enters heavy city traffic it stalls with loss of power and fuel gage shows Empty along with other gauges.
I Got crank position sensor replaced at the workshop but problem persists. Also tried swapping of the ASD and fuel pump relay. Checked all cleaned all wiring harness. Still problem is existing for almost 2 years now.
FYI: Never take a Jeep to a Jeep garage for issues like this. They are nothing but talentless hacks that are out to gouge the customer out of $$$, and generally can't fix the problem. Try to find a good mechanic that will work with you on solving these issues, and continue to read the forums (another good one on CNET), because chances are, you will experience more problems that will seem totally strange and illogical. Ultimately, you can blame many of the Jeep issues to just great American ingenuity, and is a testament to why Chrysler is in the condition that it is.
- No check engine lights (or other lights) appearing on dash
- Vehicle stalls with no warning; could stall while starting up, or while driving at highway speeds
- Stalling occurs more often when engine is hot
It's a faulty crank sensor. Auto Zone sells the part for around $50; sells on Ebay for around $20. I'm told that part can be replaced with the right tools and if you're mechanically inclined; I took my JGC to a local mechanic who replaced the sensor for $60. Ran just fine after that.
DO NOT TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIRS!!!!
2) Ensure that the battery connections are secure to the battery. Even though the hood light may be on, it may be dimly lit. Jiggle the battery connetions around to ensure that they are TIGHT!! to the terminals; you'll know that you have a good connection when the hood light is brightest.
3) The BCM is located under the glove compartment. A common issue with the older JCG's is that the BCM contacts become corroded and cause all sorts of electrical problems. One solution is to:
1) Disconnect the battery
2) Find the BCM; Pull the module from it's plug.
3) Clean the contacts thoroughly with contact cleaner. Wipe the contacts dry.
4) Reconnect the BCM and battery.
Good luck!
Best,
Mark
Obviously, this leaves everyone with a false sense of success. Just something to think about.
I have a problem w/ '06 JGC where the every indicator in the entire instrument panel illuniates at once while driving. Driving performance is not affected. I am not positive what the gauges did. Did you see this problem? I am glad that the loose gnd repair fixed your problem.
dj
What year is the JGC? I have an '06 and the headlights flash on and off rapidily in auto beam off mode. Are you talking about this problem with the headlights or something else. This is an infrequent occurance, however, it is dangerous. So far I can make it stop by switching to auto beam on.
dj
i experienced random warning lights...typically the airbag light, the service engine light, and the traction control lights would flash on and off in addition to the tach and speedo bouncing all over the place while i was driving at a constant speed.
Sounds like the same thing. Both cars are 2006. So far, I have only seen this problem a few times. I will remember the ground connection issue. BTW, my battery is new. Please post again should your problem return.
Regards,
dj
Thanks,
dj
Thanks, any idea where it is located? I could not find it in the 2 access panels. Maybe it is in the door???
Thanks,
dj
Dealer suggest to me to replace the entire master switch panel to solve the problem but this is a costly event.
Do you know whether I'm able to replace only the switch and if not If I need to get the entire master switch panel where I can buy this (used) so I can install it myself.
Any help is welcome as can't open the drivers window at the moment
Regards
John
If you can't find the part on Ebay, Auto Zone carries a great deal of electrical parts for the vehicle. Generally, you can perform an internet search on AutoZone.com to check for availability before visiting the store.
I'm sure that I don't have to tell you that dealership repair shops tend to focus more on gouging the customer, than on doing the CORRECT job at the right price. Not everyone has access to a mechanic; I suppose that I'm lucky in the fact that there is a small vehicle mechanic's shop in the small city that I reside, and I tend to leave jobs like this to him. This may not be a difficult fix, but a sharp mechanic could probably do the job in short work, and do it right. To determine the difficulty of the job, you may want to search YouTube; there are many videos on YouTube, that range from the simple to the more difficult jobs.
One thing I should have mentioned. The work around is to roll the window up while keeping my finger activating the window switch. When the window reaches the top, I continuing holding my finger on the switch for several seconds until I hear a slight click. Then the window stays in the proper position.
dj