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Thanks for the info on the the plug locations, and the oil weight.
I also kinda figured the hubs, u-joints, etc... but I guess I was posing the question to see if this is a common thing, to narrow down my search based on what others have experienced.
About the fuel gauge. I was curious as to what the others had found out. I've got one that's only erratic when empty, or close to empty, and last year, it started only lowering to half a tank... meaning, at empty, I'm at a half tank on the gauge. I've been using my odometer to measure the milage, and I just go get gas about every 250 miles.... but it looks like when it's full, the gauge reads full, when its empty, the gauge reads half... and the rate of decline is about half of what it should be. It's like there's some resistance (electronically speaking) in the wires, and the load on the sensor for the gauge to operate off of is different than it should be. I was going to just replace my fuel pump/sending unit (Roger on the one peice unit...) and go from there. I found a salvage yard that has one for 175 bucks, with less than 25k miles on it. New, those babies are about 350! Yikes!
Later all...
Thanks for any input anyone can give me on the hum...
Second, When i start the jimmy from rest after it has been sitting about 1 hour or more i here a few little "clonk" sounds coming from under me!!, i recently had the ball joints replaced at a local dealership could this be the problem or just that it is below zero and it may just be frozen a little, the sound stops short with in 5 second and happens just as i start moving. open upon start up.
I suspect that I need a coolant flush. Or is there more to it? Input, anyone?
1. Temp swings on the gauge are probably the thermostat but if the coolant is dropping may be the intake manifold gasket leaking, a head gasket, or any combo of them.
2.If you smell dex cool in the cab vents probably the heater core which often reseals itself due to small pin hole leaks but will have to be changed.
3. If temp in cab vents swing hot cold could also be the heater core clogged and a flush will clear it and this often has a water slushing noise with it.
4. If temp swings and you have Climate Control with the temps marked in degrees on the center dial, the electric blend motor may be bad.
That's the biggies I think - hope that helps.
My coolant isn't leaking, but it's probably clogged, and while I'm at it, it sounds like a thermostat replacement is in order, too.
Simple solution go to any auto store for a free check of the charging/strating system and replace the correct item.
1989-94 Jimmy/S-Series/Sonoma - Symptoms: Dark, Intermittent, Smoking, Burning Smell, Missing Sections, Odometer is Dark, Missing Segments or displays "Error". Repair Cost $159
Lots of problems on those older units - but the newer 1st year Trailblazers also had their dashes go and a free replacement so...
When I hit the 4 HI button, the the motor activate the the transfer case and I can´t rotate the drive shaft by hand (which I can when it´s in 2 HI). But there´s no power to the front wheels, just rwd. Where´s the problem? Are the problem the transfer case, or something in the front axle, or...???
If anyone knows something about this, please let me know.
Thanks, Magnus, Sweden.
The P0446 has nothing to do with spark plugs, the code means: "Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction" so it could be the gas cap or the canister up front or the vent above the gas tank that may be defective. Posted this answer a few weeks ago. For all readers these codes are easily found with a simple search and most auto stores do free code readouts and clears - if you get a code write down what it was and then have them clear it as a first free test cause it may not come back!
Then there are the brake caliper slides worn or needing grease, the sway bar mounts, the shocks, a-arm bushings, hubs as you were warned (but these are usually a grating sound and if you turn left putting most weight on the right front wheel it would be louder - opposite for the other side). There are also the the spring isolator pads (2wd) or torsion bars (4wd) that can clunk. Then on the 4wd also have the CV axles, front diff, and transfer case. As an added item if you have the 4 button Autotrac 4wd, the transfer case fluid has been a problem and is now blue dealer only item and the clutch packs in the transfer case can clunk. And finally, on my 99 4wd, after backing up and on speed bumps, after I checked all these and replaced many - still have the small clunk, so..... possible body or fender hardware problem. I am used to it.
Hope you did a good flush before the new WP, cleaned the reservior out, and changed to an after market cap. Keep the reservior at the Hot level when the Blazer is Cold to ensure no air in the system - and speaking of air - is the temp OK now cause air in the system causes temp swings so watch that - may have to bleed the system.
Next, is this a Climate Conrol Blazer (temps on center dial) cause the electronic blend motors fail and the control head can too big $$ so search earlier posts.
Another thing is rent (free) at an auto store a cooling system pressure tester and pump the system up and see if it does not leak - another possible area.
Let us know what else you need or the fix for others.
Hope you flushed that Dex cool by now and got a new cap too - many posts on that issue. Don't forget the trans (and xfer case if 4wd)fluid change.
Thanks for any help. :confuse:
it takes me several miles to get the thing up to 55 mph
and it does not go over 65 mph
rpms and temperature are good, so is compression and fuel pressure
the engine sucks down the gas because i have to keep the pedel on the floor when on the highway
the trany seems to be shifting ok, overdrive, locking torque, and is in 2wd
i also checked timing and spark
i am guessing TPS or maybe something wrong with the cpi and the popet nozzles
if any ideas please let me know