Because of road camber, most cars will drift to the right. 10 seconds doesn't seem too extreme. Drifting to the left isn't normal.
Ten seconds would be within "normal" expectations. Depending on what someone had for their last car we have a whole new dynamic to consider. Some cars today have pull drift compensation designed into their electronic power steering systems and some do not. Here is an example of Ford's system. http://wardsauto.com/news-analysis/ford-s-electric-steering-enables-pull-drift-technology
You could have a bad wheel or tire that needs replacing though.
A tire lead is very likely since rotating the tires side to side resulted in the vehicle leading the other direction. Rotating the tires front to back, especially if done one side at a time might reveal which tire is rolling like a "styrofoam cup" and producing the lead.
If you have another dealer you can get to, you could ask them for help.
Make sure to describe the symptom and the attempts that have been taken in the attempt to solve the issue. Avoid trying to tell them what the problem IS, that actually will not help them.
That is a very good description of basic alignment angles and symptoms. Once that information is really understood, then one can really start to learn what it takes to deal with the kinds of problems that a vehicle can develop.
I occasionally do demonstrations of just what the system is capable of. Take a nice long curve in the interstate. By being very careful with the wheel and allowing the system enough time to learn the turn, you can release the wheel and the car will stay in lane until the curve changes. If you have a long straight the car quickly learns and again you can release the wheel once the car has and it then tracks as straight as can be.
This also means if someone has a car that has this compensation system, they won't come in the door complaining about any pull/lead condition almost no matter what the tires, suspension or alignment are like. Then if they get into a car that doesn't have it they notice a problem very quickly and find it quite annoying when the have to constantly make corrections.
Unintended consequences? Like excessive wear on tires due to deferred rotations but the driver isn't clued in to check thanks to the system always compensating?
I have an 02 grand prix GTP it's stalling the fuel pump has been changed the TPS changed its shifting at 4k-5k it's reading a low voltage code on the OBD2 meter.. the TPS has been changed ... HELP
This is motorcycle related but I know these systems tend to cross over vehicles: A friend says this valve was clogged and blowing in it opened it up. I would like to know what the purpose of the valve is. It is a Honda part called VALVE, IN. AIR SHOT AIR CHECK, and in the following diagram is part 36627-MN5-003.
It appears to be connected to a cylindrical vacuum chamber that connects to the side of the air box. It is also connected to a solenoid which then routes to a diaphragm valve on top of the air box. I think that diaphragm controls a flapper on the intake.
Could this be a control for engine braking? Without real knowledge I am guessing this creates some sort of control or buffering on the intake flow.
When you close the throttle, engine vaccum sucks fresh air from the airbox directly into the exhaust ports to create better burning and to dilute the exhaust gases.
So I guess it's something like the old air injection pumps on early emissions cars.
My friend has an F-150. He just lamented to me that he cannot find a decent manual with specs, troubleshooting steps, or decent visuals for him to follow to get the 4wd working. Recommendations?
My friend has an F-150. He just lamented to me that he cannot find a decent manual with specs, troubleshooting steps, or decent visuals for him to follow to get the 4wd working. Recommendations?
The information in those sources is identical to what professional techs get to work with. Most of the diagnostics start with a suitable scan tool which is capable of pulling codes, commanding system self tests, performing bi-directional commands and displaying pertinent data. From there, armed with the schematic and appropriate tooling that can be used to back-up the data that the scan tool displayed top techs use a hybrid routine based on their own ability to troubleshoot and when appropriate use the trouble trees.
As far as him not finding anything decent, a lot of the information that is supplied to techs is in serious need of revision. Techs get paid .3 to use that information to analyze a vehicle complaint while it is under warranty.
Can your friend pull codes and access data? If so post it and I'll walk you (him) through the diagnostics. Make sure to include year, engine, transmission and transfer case information and control style.
There are no trouble codes. Is there any pertinent data provided in this case?Can your friend pull codes and access data? If so post it and I'll walk you (him) through the diagnostics. Make sure to include year, engine, transmission and transfer case information and control style.
YEAR: 1997 ENGINE: 4.6 V6 TRANNY: AUTOMATIC He says it is not shift on fly, not old-style lockout, but the "other" version, be stopped or in park and pull handle back.
There are no trouble codes.
He thinks the shafts are frozen in the transfer case. How to unstick? Or there is a vacuum leak...?
The solenoid clicks on engagement. The plunger moves freely. Dash indicator shows it goes into 4wd. There is vacuum on the hose leading into the transfer case. But the tires do not lock.
The blower fan for heat/ac was only working on Hi speed. I replaced the resistor which solved the problem for about 2 weeks before if failed. I replaced it again thinking I got a bad resistor and again it lasted about 2 weeks. Any suggestions on what is causing it to go out?
Did your fan motor kinda squeel or rattle on high.
I guess this is a general question that could fit any car. I have a '95 Mercedes Benz E-320 cabriolet with only 30,000 miles. I just put it in for service yesterday and the service guy said other than the normal tuneup that it will receive, that I should have the radiator flushed along with the brake fluid replaced and the tranny fluid changed.... is that a normal procedure with a low mileage, not driven much... car?
Thanks, Mark156
I don't know about benz but coolant should be flushed with (i use Prestone) radiator flush and new antifreeze every 30k miles or every 5 years. I use good ole fashioned green coolant. As for the transmissions Some folks say every 30k miles some say 50k some say 100k and some say never. I say they put filters in the transmission for a reason and those filters get dirty and clogged up. My personal preference is 30k as its cheaper to spend 60 dollars on oil and filter than it is to spend 1000-3500 rebuilding a transmission and IMO that includes using synthetic oil. Its all about duty usage.
Oil breaks down from not only dirt but humidity. The water kills it faster than the dirt. And you really can't keep humidity from condensing inside the transmission and over time the viscosity goes to crap.
For example i told a young gal a year ago when she got her truck from her grandpa that based on color of the oil which was caramel colored instead of red, she needed to change oil. Wellll she didn't. And 1 year later i was replacing solinoids that had plugged up and burned out. It had 70k miles on that oil. I would go with 50k miles on a transmission oil and filter change and call it a compromise. Oil in engines, i am still old school of every 3k miles or 3 months whichever comes first.
I have a 02 Redenzvous. I replaced the front & back brakes along with bearings but every since then it has been squeaking when I back up. Well now its squeaking as I drive down the road.
You may have to double-check your work. You may have installed a spring clip in wrong for instance. It's also possible the rotor isn't torqued correctly and is moving slightly--same with a caliper.
Due to an unfortunate situation my 2013 Nissan 370Z is still winterized. I have an appointment at the dealer to change the oil and flush the brake lines next Tuesday. However, my sister needs a ride to the airport this Saturday. It would be about 100 miles round trip. Would I be safe to drive the car before the oil change?
Due to an unfortunate situation my 2013 Nissan 370Z is still winterized. I have an appointment at the dealer to change the oil and flush the brake lines next Tuesday. However, my sister needs a ride to the airport this Saturday. It would be about 100 miles round trip. Would I be safe to drive the car before the oil change?
@KYFDX - Cleaned, covered, garage, trickle charger, dryer sheets and stuffed a sock in the tailpipe, handbrake off and tires chocked with a full tank of premium in mid December.
Was a fuel stabilizer added to the gas? If not, that's the only thing I can think of that might bite you. Of course, I'd check all the fluid levels and the tire pressure and take a 15 minute test ride before you go.
I park my Mustang all winter and have no concerns about getting it out the next spring. There really are no special steps that have to be performed beyond a battery tender in some cases.
I've been checking around on some credible websites about how long it takes fuel to spoil and the general consensus seems to be that at the one-year mark you are really taking a chance. There's no exact way to predict because there are too many variables.
Hey everyone first post here I just had an engine light come on I scanned it . The codes are p1729 ,p0700,c2101,2100,u140e,c2202 anybhelp with this would be appreciated I’m assuming it’s transmission replacement any ideas thanks
Today all the lights on my instrument panel went out.I have a2006 pacifica,Everything works just can't tell how much gas or how fast Im going.Hope someone can help.I hope it;s just a fuse
By all means check the fuses first and if you have a VOM, use that to test continuity rather than just trying to "eyeball" the fuse in question.
If that doesn't get you anywhere, you could try the "wiggle test" by reaching behind the dash (or taking off a panel underneath) and gently moving wire harnesses to see if that might tickle a loose connector.
If that doesn't work, you may have no choice but to take it in and have it tested.
Your owner's manual should have a fuse chart, if it isn't already on the lid of the fuse box.
In the Pacifica, is the shift lever assembly still illuminated? Or the rear seat blower booster switch or the traction control switches? The schematic for the lamps in Mitchell doesn't actually reveal where the power source is, but the instrument cluster is the dominant module on the circuit. The three assemblies that I mentioned take power from the common lamp driver splice that connects all of the interior lighted assemblies and it passes through their illumination lamps and goes directly to ground, so if they light up then the power supply is intact. Every other module that lights up uses the serial data bus to command the intensity of the lamps that are powered from that same power supply. So if those first three do light up, then a scan tool will be required to test further. By chance do the radio, heater control, door switches etc. all light up and respond to the dimmer input?
2007 Mitsubishi Outlander, 3.0 V6. Check engine light is on, it's my daughter's car, her friend ran the code and it came up evap system. Gas cap is tight, think it is worth trying a 6 dollar cap, or any other ideas?.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
If you can locate the EVAP cannister, you can check for loose or cracked entry or exit hoses. Yes, it is worth trying a new cap. I had a similar problem and even though my cap was tight, I noticed a small crack in the sealing gasket. Fixed the problem.
@Mr_Shiftright One of my kid's called and said they filled up with e85 by mistake and after about 40 miles check engine light came on. They are planning on filing up with premium fuel after using a few gallons every day or 2. Does that make sense or should they get it drained? TIA.
CVT transmissions generally - are they still problematic? Nissans I know had terrible problems with them some years ago. Two of the cars that I'm potentially interested in buying now - Nissan Rogue and Subaru Forester - have them. Is this a reason to stay away from those two models, or are they OK now?
How about Mazda's SKYACTIVE technology - ok or should be avoided?
Why, especially? I'm inclined to agree with you on that, but would like to hear your thoughts.
The other one in the mix is the Volvo XC40. I like our current Volvo a lot, and that's why I'm interested. But it has a significantly smaller cargo area, and it's more expensive, although for as long as we own our cars, I'm ok with paying a little more to get the best longevity, so long as utility is sufficient.
Comments
This also means if someone has a car that has this compensation system, they won't come in the door complaining about any pull/lead condition almost no matter what the tires, suspension or alignment are like. Then if they get into a car that doesn't have it they notice a problem very quickly and find it quite annoying when the have to constantly make corrections.
http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2b22f870023420a30f82/air-cleaner
It appears to be connected to a cylindrical vacuum chamber that connects to the side of the air box. It is also connected to a solenoid which then routes to a diaphragm valve on top of the air box. I think that diaphragm controls a flapper on the intake.
Could this be a control for engine braking? Without real knowledge I am guessing this creates some sort of control or buffering on the intake flow.
So I guess it's something like the old air injection pumps on early emissions cars.
http://www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/ford-service-manuals/?gclid=CNernLTq29ICFVuBswod3u0O8w
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
As far as him not finding anything decent, a lot of the information that is supplied to techs is in serious need of revision. Techs get paid .3 to use that information to analyze a vehicle complaint while it is under warranty.
Can your friend pull codes and access data? If so post it and I'll walk you (him) through the diagnostics.
Make sure to include year, engine, transmission and transfer case information and control style.
ENGINE: 4.6 V6
TRANNY: AUTOMATIC
He says it is not shift on fly, not old-style lockout, but the "other" version, be stopped or in park and pull handle back.
There are no trouble codes.
He thinks the shafts are frozen in the transfer case. How to unstick? Or there is a vacuum leak...?
The solenoid clicks on engagement. The plunger moves freely. Dash indicator shows it goes into 4wd. There is vacuum on the hose leading into the transfer case. But the tires do not lock.
My personal preference is 30k as its cheaper to spend 60 dollars on oil and filter than it is to spend 1000-3500 rebuilding a transmission and IMO that includes using synthetic oil. Its all about duty usage.
Oil breaks down from not only dirt but humidity. The water kills it faster than the dirt. And you really can't keep humidity from condensing inside the transmission and over time the viscosity goes to crap.
For example i told a young gal a year ago when she got her truck from her grandpa that based on color of the oil which was caramel colored instead of red, she needed to change oil. Wellll she didn't. And 1 year later i was replacing solinoids that had plugged up and burned out. It had 70k miles on that oil.
I would go with 50k miles on a transmission oil and filter change and call it a compromise. Oil in engines, i am still old school of every 3k miles or 3 months whichever comes first.
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2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If that doesn't get you anywhere, you could try the "wiggle test" by reaching behind the dash (or taking off a panel underneath) and gently moving wire harnesses to see if that might tickle a loose connector.
If that doesn't work, you may have no choice but to take it in and have it tested.
Your owner's manual should have a fuse chart, if it isn't already on the lid of the fuse box.
One of my kid's called and said they filled up with e85 by mistake and after about 40 miles check engine light came on.
They are planning on filing up with premium fuel after using a few gallons every day or 2.
Does that make sense or should they get it drained?
TIA.
How about Mazda's SKYACTIVE technology - ok or should be avoided?
Skyactive is not really anything different, and has been fine. Just a catch name for efficiency techniques really.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
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The other one in the mix is the Volvo XC40. I like our current Volvo a lot, and that's why I'm interested. But it has a significantly smaller cargo area, and it's more expensive, although for as long as we own our cars, I'm ok with paying a little more to get the best longevity, so long as utility is sufficient.