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I hope we can help.
After reading about the issues with oil seeping into the plug wells, I decided to check mine. Boy what a job that is, especially on the rear bank!!! Luckily, only one of the wells had any accumulated oil and it was on the front. I figure I can just drain it out and clean it every once in a while as opposed to replacing the valve cover gaskets.
In the week that I have been driving the car, I have found the following problems:
1. The in-dash CD player does not work. Initially, I thought this was no big deal because I also have the changer. The problem is that the in-dash keeps spitting out the CD, which to the best of my knowledge leaves the changer inoperable also. Also, I have noticed that when the vehicle interior is cold that the radio keeps beeping like someone is holding in one of the numbered buttons to program a radio station.
2. I get a little bit of hesitation under light throttle cruise or acceleration. The car seems to stutter a bit and if I give it more pedal while it is doing this there is a delay before it starts to accelerate. If I jump on the throttle from idle the car pulls nicely and runs smoothly.
3. This is the most worrysome. My fuel economy appears to be very poor. I have put mostly highway miles on the car and I can litterly watch the gage drop as I commute to work and back. I haven't quite run through my first full tank, but I am estimating that I will get less than 250 out of it. Unless the fuel gage in this vehicle is not very linear, then I am afraid that my consumption is excessive. I have not been running the car very hard, so I would anticipate decent fuel economy. I guess I won't know for sure until I run a couple of tanks through it.
If anyone has experience with any of these issues, please reply with suggestions, especially the FE issue. My best guess for the FE issue was a boost pressure or mass airflow sensor. Since I haven't had any CELs I can't tell for sure. I thought maybe I would replace them both and see if the mileage improved, but once I checked the prices I thought no way. Wow, expensive! I guess that's what I get for buying the only production miller cycle engine in the US.
I have the following questions:
1. I notice a hiss under the hood while the car is idling. It sounds like an air leak. I don't know if the car has some sort of pressure relief valve for the supercharge or not. Is this hiss normal, or do I have an air leak?
2. Does anyone have experience with the Chilton manual for this car? I was considering purchasing it, but it includes several Mazda models so I wonder how good the detail for the 2.3 engine is. Should I buy it or just spend the extra money to get the shop manuals.
3. Is anyone aware of other online resources for the miller cycle engine? I have done a couple of google searches and have come up mostly empty. I used to own a '91 Sentra SE-R and the online enthusiast resources for it were outstanding. This doesn't seem to be the case for the Millenia S.
Thanks in advance for any info. Sorry for the lengthy post.
3.
HASD ANYBODY HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM?
WHAT IS TCS? MY CAR LOSES TRACTION WHEN IT HAPPENS, I CAN'T GO OVER 50 MILES PER HOUR, BECAUSE IT HAPPENS.
IWANNAWAGON, the slight hesitation in acceleration is a norm for the S. This has been talked about for years by S owners. The mpg has tended to have a wide range for S owners. People have been getting anything between 16 - 24 mpg in town. I tend to get 23 - 24 mpg in town but that appears to be the exception. EPA sticker was saying 20 mpg in town and 27 highway. I tend to get 26 - 27 on highway doing 75 to 80 mph. The hiss sound is not normal. People have talked about vacuum leaks in hoses or the plastic tees cracking, this might be a cause for bad mpg's. The problem with the CD player has come up more often in the last year or two so you might want to search that topic on this site. The repair manual will probably not be worth your money unless you plan on doing work on this car yourself. I bought the shop manual and for the cost it may not be worth the expense.
CEL on 20 miles after purchase(Catalytic converter,bank 1&2),
transmission slips completly out of gear shifting into 3rd when cold,manually shift into 2nd and "putt along".
Hoping trans tune-up with new filter will cure this.
Have mixed emotions about this car,the cat seems to not be a problem as car idles,runs and acclerates fine and in MI we have no emissions testing.
If trans tune-up cures slip i am good.
But appears to be numerous common problems on the horizon,perhaps i will get lucky.
i bought this as my winter/luxury car,in summer and good weather i drive a sweet 3000GT.
So time will tell for me and hopefully you and i will look back in 5yrs. and say it was a good car.......doubt it!!
165k
Here's the symptoms for my 95 Millenia which I owned for 20 minutes before the following happened:
1) Engine light came on and stayed on.
2) "TCS OFF" light is displayed
3) Car stalled out while driving between 35-45mph. Refused to turn over and instrument panel flickered even after taking key out of the ignition (battery cable on + post was loose and may have caused flickering).
4) Disconnected Pos. (+) post for 20 seconds.
5) Electrical power seemed full but car wouldn't turn over. Parked car for 45 minutes.
6) Returned to car, turned ignition with a start on FIRST TRY.
7) AutoZone gave me the following codes: P1000, P1195, P1601
8) Written display on reader: MANF FUEL AIR METERING AUXILLARY EMMISSION CONTROL.
Can anyone suggest what they would do to begin correcting these concerns?
I've got a "99 S(93k).had CEL,codes came up Bank 1&2,my mechanic beleives from his experience it is the Cat causing the oxygen sensor(s)codes to come up,you can replace the sensors but in short time will have same problem.he tested by disconnecting sensor 1(your right,close to radiator)and tapping it in his palm,if residue falls out it is likely the Cat that is bad,residue/shavings did fall into his hand.Said not real big deal,just monitor performance and fuel economy.new Cat=$1000,you can find sensors on ebay for approx.$60-$90.Good luck,post any new findings or cures,thanks.Paul
I have used a couple of bottles of injector cleaner to see if that worked but it did not. Engine runs great. Only problem is milage has dropped. Any ideas? If the supercharger is not working/properly, how would you know? Thanks.
I'm thinking of buying an 2001 millenia "S" but the thought of having to puchase hi octane fuel given the price of gas is making me think twice. Does it really matter if I use hi octane fuel? Will I damage the engine if I don't?
Had tires rotated and checked recently and they were a little low. I may get a little better mpg but don't know yet.
I bought a set of Goodyear Assurance Comfortred tires for my 2001 MMP yesterday, because after a lot of research I came to the conclusion they will be very quiet and smooth (ie luxury ride). I have chosen to run them at 35 lb front and 33 lb rear as opposed to the factory recommendation for OEM tires of 31/29. I also changed size from 215/55/16 to 205/60/16 and they look great. The diameter is almost identical, so there should be no effect on the speedometer or gas milage other than the higher air pressure.
I leave Saturday morning for a 3000 mile trip and will let you know when I get back how this choice worked out. So far, I can tell that they are virtually silent, and the ride seems for the first 100 miles to be an improvement over the original Michelin MXV4's. The Michelin's were worn out at 17000 miles (1/32" tread left), not a very good showing IMO, and were not particularly quiet.
I paid out the door, $573. Not cheap, but far cheaper than putting another set of MXV4's on it. I'll be back in two and a half weeks with a followup.
1. Even though reliability gets decent ratings from CR and others, there seems to be a lot of CEL issues and other problems. DO you think that is because people with problems come here or do the cars not age well?
2. Is the S version more trouble prone? what are issues?
3. What are best years and none issue areas?
thank you in advance?
I've had my '99 MMS(93k)for 4mths.,about 2mths. ago my transmission began to disengage at 35-40(going into 3rd or overdrive.)Sad,shocking,scary!!I am hoping a "transmission tune-up"(about $100,includes fluid drain/refill and most importantly a new filter)will cure this.However,I discovered it only does it when cold and if I "ease her" into shift(basically minimal accleration at 35mph)it will engage.Still want and intend to get "tune-up" but need to get the courage,very likely i will get the "needs new tranny" speech and that would %3&*# me off.
Does anyone have opinions about the quality of these aftermarket fenders? And Maaco? that was once known for its cheap jobs but seems to be upmarketing. ?
What maintenance is absolutely necessary at this point on a fixed income?
For a tune up, what kind of wires and plugs should I get?
Do I NEED the dealer for this work?
My heated seat light comes on, but no heat. Are there any cheap probable solutions?
Thanks-
I put a total of 2911 miles on the new tires, with most of that at 80 to 85 mph on Interstates. But it also included far too much time on terrible snow and ice covered roads in Davenport Iowa. Except for a high pitched whine on some of Illinois' and Iowa's poorly maintained concrete highways they performed admirably. They are definitely far smoother and more comfortable than the Michelin MX4V's they replaced, as well as being considerably quieter under most circumstances. I found no loss of performance with these H rated tires as compared to the V's that came on the car.
I had read a couple of reviews on Tire Rack that suggested I might lose about 2 mpg going to these tires, but that didn't hold true. When the Michelins were new I took a similar trip and averaged 26 in the same kind of driving. The Goodyears returned a low of 24.9, but averaged 27.1 for the trip.
On good roads in the mountains northwest of Chatanooga my mother commented that it felt as if the car was floating over the ground.
All in all I am well pleased with them and recommend them as a replacement for the OEM's on the P. I am not an agressive driver, so the ones of you that are, might see a difference in handling.
On another note, I had no indication of any type of problem on the trip concerning the rest of the car and it performed perfectly. The MMP and Goodyear Assurance Comfortreads seem to be a good combination.
Have periodically experienced the same "non-working" auto tilt on my '99MMS.It would not work for a couple starts then work fine.2 days ago it stopped working,kept hoping with each start that it would follow history....no luck.Couldn't find a fuse in manual that would affect this,also thinking its the motor.
But today when I returned home,I listened very carefully and could here a slight "click" of the motor indicating it was operating.Decided while engaging the auto tilt to "help" the steering wheel go up,with a little force it did engage and is now working fine.
Theory-
Sometimes the auto tilt function needs a "little help".Hope this helps others.
Best,
PCFIG
Can anyone tell me color of car? color code is 22R.
thanks
Mazda-22R-Platinum Silver Metallic
http://www.expresspaint.com/productcart/pc/step3.asp
Looks like yours is the same as mine. Mine came with a small bottle of touch up paint, but after trying to touch up a small nick, I advise against it beause it looks better before than after.
I think it would destroy the appearance of the MM by putting molding on it, but it is easily available. Again try Google.
My solution is to get some exercise by parking alone on the far side of the parking whenever possible. That's kept the car like new other than the tiny nick I mentioned that happened on I-75 in Georgia. Only an ugly bra would have protected against that, and IMO would have looked far worse than the nick.
Does anyne have any ideas?
Also does anyone know how much EGR valves run??
Hopefully I'll find out more today and let you know what the outcome is. I can only hope its a covered warranty expense.
Talk to you soon
PO750 Shift Solenoid A.
PO755 Shift Solenoid B
PO760 Shift Solenoid c
P1743 Manufacturer contol Transmission.
I have a appointment at the Dealership on Tues.
I'll keep you posted.
I'm taking it to Autozone and getting it checked out so I too can know exactly what the codes are. I had the list from the Mazda dealer but lost them. At least if I take it to Autozone I dont have to pay for the diagnostics test...that's $89 I can keep in my pocket toward a future repair....
thanks
rbc
Hope this helps.
Mazda parts are expensive..
Fortunately, its under the extended warranty.
Lets hope this works.