Got a Quick, Technical Question?

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Hi,

Here, talk to the Jetta Owners at this link: They'll tell you. But turn off your CAPS LOCK or they'll give you all kinds of flack and probably not answer you. It's considered "bad netiquette" to use cap lock--it translates as "HEY I"M SHOUTING AT YOU!"

Anyway, here's your link:

Jetta Owners Forum

Shifty the Host

lau1 · April 2005

Dear all,
I have an Audi 97 18T.
Recently the maintenance code "ln 2" display on the odormeter when I start the car.
Since this is a second hand and no manual come with the car.
Could anyone please help to translate ?
Thanks!
:lemon:

bcb1 · April 2005

I have a 2000 GMC Yukon, 5.3L, 2WD, 100K trouble-free miles.

For approx. 6 months, I've had an annoying rattling sound (imagine marbles rattling on a metal pan) in the exhaust system, somewhere between the middle and the rear of the truck.

It only makes the noise after the exhaust is hot (at least 3-5 miles of driving 45+ MPH). The rattle comes when I slow down - approx 10mph to 30mph. Very difficult to troubleshoot, because I've had it up on the lift at my mechanic's shop, and he shook and beat on the entire exhaust and couldn't get it to rattle at all. It only does it when the exhaust is hot - so once I bring it to a stop, even for a minute, it cools down enough that it won't rattle anymore.

I'm guessing one of two things: Either a cat converter, or some internal heat shield or baffle in the muffler that only rattles when it gets super hot. There is absolutely NOTHING on the exterior of the exhaust - hangers, shields, etc that we could get to rattle.

I would presume that similar vehicles - 2000+ model year Tahoes, Suburbans, Silverados, etc all have nearly identical exhaust systems. Anybody have a similar problem?

alcan · April 2005

Scroll back through this forum. It's been discussed in depth:

robh, "GMC Yukon Denali Problems" #181, 7 Apr 2005 12:56 pm

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

That's a #2 inspection...the BIG one. #1 inspection is simpler.

99accent · April 2005

I was doing the other side,but my wife wanted to go to the movies, so we went ,The problem was the shims were bad old and rusted ,now its cool both sides done, shims shims shims

ybnrmal · April 2005

My husband is having a problem removing the pulley from our van. Haynes says to pull it off by hand. Not happening. We got a Gm puller (Lisle 49500). Not right. What's the deal? Is there something we're missing?

alcan · April 2005

That puller shold do the trick. What happens when you try to use it?

ducky2 · April 2005

I have a 1993 Plymouth Acclaim and 2 months ago my front right strut broke, so I got it fix. After I got it fixed I started have thumping noises down by my wheels on both sides. Could it be the tie rods?ball joints?chassis?or what? I don't know when the tie rods were last lubricated or any of the parts being lubricated b/c I bought the car from a third party. Do you have any suggestions or Ideas what I should do before I take it to a mechanic?
Thank U Ducky2

rowaxe · April 2005

I have an '85 Honda CRX. I'm having intermittent issues with the idle speed. When I have the car idling, it will almost choke out, then come back to normal idle, then die off then come back, over and over. it doesn't do this all the time, and sometimes it just stops doing it. It never completely shuts off, but nearly. I've noticed it only at idle speeds and not when I'm driving. Otherwise it is running fine when driving. any suggestions. I have no money for a mechanic, so that's out.

ohhawk · April 2005

Volvo dealer recently did an oil change on my 2002 S80 T6. Noticed a small bit of smoke in traffic on the way home a couple times (after the oil change) and didn't think much of it thinking it was coming from another vehicle. Got home, checked the oil and low and behold the dipstick registered nearly 3 times over the full mark! I was not a happy camper. The drive home from the dealership was approx. 6 miles with a few stop lights in between. The dealer came that same aft. and towed the vehicle back to correct the problem. My question.........is there likely any damage I would have incurred from this event? Car seems to run fine since and I've noticed no smoke. Could there be some damage that might appear later?

I had a long talk with the service mgr. as well as calling the Volvo customer service number to register my complaint. Is there anything more I should be doing?

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Probably no damage. Not much can happen on such a short trip except maybe you could stress a seal I suppose....kinda sorta maybe a long shot. I'd just keep an eye out for oil leaks on the engine or under it for a few days, otherwise I'd forget about it.

flaekingur · April 2005

I am looking at acquiring a 1997 Chev Starcraft Van conversion. Presently own a 91 Chev Starcraft. Question: How do you access the engine on these vans? On my 1991, there is a removeable "doghouse" to access the rear of the engine. The new ones do not seem to have any way to get at the back of the engine.
I have a Zemco trip computer in my old van that I want to install in the new one but I need to attach a wire to one of the one of the fuel injector leads. How do you get at them? How do you get at the Spark plugs?
Flaekingur

alcan · April 2005

Check the sway bar bushings for looseness where they attach to the control arms and to the subframe.

med · April 2005

How do I bypass the infernal Passlock security system on my '99 Chevy Sub. After checking with many forums etc. it seems this is a frequent, though often misidentified problem for these vehicles.

ducky2 · April 2005

Thank You.
Ducky2

alcan · April 2005

You're welcome. Post us back with what you find.

joe45 · April 2005

Where is the camshaft position sensor located on a 2001 Blazer 4.3 motor,have an obd11 code -P0341.THANKS

alcan · April 2005

In the side of the distributor.

wconto · April 2005

2004 Honda Civic Hybrid -- Can't get any air flow for AC or heater after a car wash. Has anyone else experienced this? Apparently, car wash water gets trapped somewhere and interferes with the air flow. This condition clears in about 24 hours or so, and therefore when I get it to the dealer, it's "no trouble found". On my way to the dealer last time (morning after a car wash the previous day), the windshield fogged up badly, and because I couldn't get any defroster air flow, it was a dangerous trip. The service guys at the dealer were not partiularly concerned with my safety or in looking it up to see if there were other reports of similar problems.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Bizarre......sounds like your fresh air vent compartment drains are clogging up.

ross · April 2005

I have a 94 Geo Tracker that just rolled 120,000 miles and the check engine light came on. It is still running well and Chilton says it comes on every 50K, 80K, and 100K, but I don't remember it ever coming on. I disconnected the battery to try to turn it off, but it is still on. Does anyone know how to turn it off? Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

You may be confusing this with a service light. If it's the check engine light, you HAVE to find out what's wrong with the car by getting the codes scanned. Once you have the error codes you can tell us what they are and perhaps we can help you. Autozone will often scan your car for free,hoping of course that you'll buy the parts you need from them.

0patience · April 2005

If it is the Check Enginelight, then you will, as Mr Shiftright stated, need to retrieve the trouble codes.
You can find the procedure On this page.

If it is the Maintenance Reminder Light, then there is a reset.
Federal equipped vehicles only have a cancel switch which needs to be reset after the 50,000, 80,000, and 100,000 mile maintenance service is completed.
The MIL cancel switch is located behind the instrument panel, attached to the instrument panel next to left speaker.
To reset the switch, move the switch to "OFF."
NOTE: Disconnecting the battery or fuses will NOT reset this light if it is on due to maintenance.

ross · April 2005

Sounds good. Thanks to both of you for your help.

arichards · April 2005

Ihave a 1995 chevy S10 4L 2.2, if a start my vehicle while it is cold the oil pressure will read at 60 pounds, but as the truck get hot the oil pressure will drop to the red reading on the gage. The engine does not knock when the the oil gage drop to the red danger zone. what could be my problem.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Clogged oil screen, bad oil pump, worn main bearings. You should drop the pan and see what's up.

BUT FIRST---screw in a mechanical oil pressure gauge and get a numerical reading to make sure your sensor for the oil light isn't screwy.

ross · April 2005

I moved the switch, now everything is completely dead, like I blew a fuse. Moved the switch back and it is still dead. No lights when door is opened and nothing when I turn the ignition. Did I blow a fuse?

0patience · April 2005

Did you contact something when you put the instrument panel back in?
Check all the fuses and fusible links in engine compartment.
It sounds like you may have shorted something when putting the instrument panel back in.
When ever working with electrical, always disconnect the battery to prevent shorting anything.

ross · April 2005

I just removed the cover and moved the switch. I didn't have remove anything. I checked it again after letting it sit a while, and the door light came on when I opened the door. When I turned the ignition switch, it went dead again, so if I had blown a fuse or fusible link, the power would not come back on would it?

0patience · April 2005

Do you have a voltmeter?
Moving the switch shouldn't have created any problems, it is just a reset.
There isn't any voltage running through the reset switch.

Since the light came on and went out when you turned the key, it sounds like your battery is dead.
Check the voltage on the battery and check the battery connections.

adamasu · April 2005

Over the past four days I have had a major problem starting my car in the evenings. The car starts fine going to work or school, but after a couple hours of drive time, the cars starter does nothing. The electrical units all work but the engine does nothing. Anyone run into this problem or have advice?

bobbyspina · April 2005

what is the biggest size tire or rims i can put on my 1999 durango without the speedometer gettin messed up

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Hi Bobby,

You should post this question here:

Ask Connor at the Tire Rack Forum

thanks

MrShiftright
Host

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Try stepping on the brake and moving the shift lever back and forth a few times and see what happens.

imidazol97 · April 2005

03 LeSabre
Where's the radiator drain? The service manual shows it at the left. I can't see anything over there. I drain my 98 by disconnecting the lower radiator hose rather than messing \with the drain, but this one has the hose connection at the middle of the radiator vertically!

beatleboy · April 2005

I have a 2000 GMC Savana Van. 5.7 Vortec. Replaced the computer(seal went), tuned up and replaced two oxygen sensors. Still only getting 20 L/100 k. Mostly highway(60/40). Seems to idle a bit rough but Dealership says no codes come up and newest programs on the computer. Hope you can help.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Well DUH did the dealer do a fuel/air mixture reading? If my math is good you are getting about 12 mpg? Are you hitting on all cylinders? Dealer needs to give you more info (or himself more info).

rkd · April 2005

this morning i had a problem starting the car, the car finally started but there is a check light and rpm shows up very low. When you press on the accelator the rpm goes down first as if the car is going to turn off. There is a weird noise in the engine. Anyone has any ideas. I am planning to take it ot the mechanic but would like to know what the problem could be.

Thanks

mazda626atx · April 2005

Opatience do you know a site like that for a 1994 mazda 626 LXA 2 ltr ATX? I have the book for it but it has a mixed version ford EEC IV connector ( FORD CD4E tranny)and the manual gives wrong info for that version. I have heard I need to find the EEC IV codes for a non ford auto but did a Google etc and cant find any such site
Tia PGP

0patience · April 2005

The 94 Mazda 626 with the auto trans requires a Mazda OEM compliant scantool [Super Star II tester].
The manual trans model, you can access the trouble codes without a scantool, but not the auto trans.

Sorry

mazda626atx · April 2005

Do you know where I can get this tool . Google is a dead end
Thx PGP

blue7 · April 2005

Gas poured into carbuerator. Won't start. Year unknown.

Reset? How?

jharding · April 2005

I was driving the other day and I had only gone about 35 miles and my temperature gauge got really high. I stopped the car and looked at the coolant. it was pretty low, so i put more in. I continued to drive, but it got hot again and was almost at the top. It is wierd how now, when I am driving, the temperature will rise based on my RPM as it seems. If I acclerate through 1,2,3 it will get high, but if I stay in 4-6 at about 2000 rpm, it stays normal. It gets to the middle about 3 minutes after i start the car too. Is this the water pump? or thermostat? sometimes, if it will get almost to the top, it will drop all the way back down to the middle again. Check engine light also turned on from the one time it got really hot. what do you think is up wiht it? Thanks for you answers.

Jeff

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

It sounds like a thermostat or a very clogged up radiator, yes. Water pumps are less likely suspects with the symptoms you are describing...

Of course, you may have more than one problem---where did the coolant go?

Why don't you have your system pressure tested for a leak first?

jharding · April 2005

What would be leaking? the coolant? how do you unclog the radiator?

Mr_Shiftright · April 2005

Well with a "fast overheat" it's kind of a chicken and egg thing. Did the leak cause the car to overheat, or did the car get so hot it "blew" something out?

So we start by finding the leak and fixing that. Then we can test further if necessary.

A radiator can sometimes be unclogged by removing it and having it dunked, although on very modern cars they usually just replace it. Seems unlikely for a car as new as yours to have a plugged radiator but you have to consider every possibility.

Changing the thermostat wouldn't cost too much.

I'm also wondering if there is, on your car, a special procedure for adding coolant so that you don't let air into the cooling system. If you do, you block the flow of water, since the water pump can't push air around your engine's innards.

So:

1. Find and fix leak
2. Tighten fan belt that drives water pump

If car still overheats:

3. Make sure your electric cooling fan is working! does it turn on when the engine gets hot?
4. Make sure your thermostat isn't stuck
5. check your oil to see if there's water in it (blown head gasket---gulp)

You can't really check a water pump unless you take it off and look at it internally.

0patience · April 2005

Unfortunately, the only one I know of for certain is the NGS scanner, which is about $2600.

toomanyfumes · April 2005

I recently had a coolant flush and fill in my 2001 Villager. The technician replaced the original green coolant with orange extended life (not Dexcool). He assured me this was OK and would be compatable with standard green coolant. However, my owner's manual states to use Ford premium coolant and not to use extended life. Will this cause any harm? Should I insist they change it out with standard green coolant? Thanks in advance for any help. :shades:

jharding · April 2005

Thanks for the info! I know the cooling fan is working, cause it turns on about 10 minutes into my drive...sooner in city traffic. I will go thru the check list to narrow it down. Thanks again.

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