I am unable to purchase a new car as I a located in Canada, but the dealer is in the US. Mercedes USA had told dealers not to sell cars less than 12 months old to Canadians.
I am doing an apples to apples comparison on the vehicles. Same options, etc except for the year. The MRSP on the 09's (they had about 10) range from $54-$50K. The MSRP of the 08 was $50K. The 09's have an $8000 Manufacturer discount so are all marked in the $45K range.
The dealer is taking $8000 of the 08 resulting in a very similar price to the 09's. I guess what I a asking is, will the dealer discount the 08 further or hold onto it until all of the 09's are sold and then try and get their price? I understand its impossible to know for sure, just looking for opinions.
Yes, I fully understand the warrnaty situation, not sure where the responses came from.
I know that we cannot sell a new car for export. The buyer has to register the car and pay taxes before he (not the dealer) can export the car. I had thought that this was to protect overseas dealers but it may have more to do with export laws.
I had thought that this was to protect overseas dealers but it may have more to do with export laws.
I think you are right with your first thought. This action is to protect Canadian dealers (and MB Canada's relatively larger markup). This issue reared it's ugly head when the Canadian $ approached (and briefly exceeded) parity with the US $. When that happens Canadian buyers look longingly at the much lower US list prices.
Contrary to popular belief, the markup for vehicles sold in Canada is no greater than for same vehicles sold in the US.
We Canadian dealers don't buy the cars for the same price as US dealers and mark them up more because we feel like it or can get away with it. All Canadian MSRPs are set by the manufacturers anyways.
And yes nwalbert. There are some restrictions about cross border shopping where US dealers won't sell you a vehicle for export. Those intructions come from their manufacturers. If you really must buy a US vehicle, then get one that's a year or two old that's used, or buy a new one register it in the US, and then register it in Canada. Keep in mind when reselling that vehicle in Canada you will get less for it on trade or private sale than a comparable car originally bought locally in Canada.
Contrary to popular belief, the markup for vehicles sold in Canada is no greater than for same vehicles sold in the US.
We Canadian dealers don't buy the cars for the same price as US dealers and mark them up more because we feel like it or can get away with it. All Canadian MSRPs are set by the manufacturers anyways.
Read my post carefully, I did not accuse Canadian Dealers of marking the cars up more. We're not all dealer bashers you know.
We actually get most of our "export" requests for the cars to go to the middle east or Russia. Some of these are blatant scams but others are for real. I have been here over 8 years and we have never been allowed to export a new car - it is a major franchise violation.
That raises an interesting question (one that I realise you may not want to answer on a public forum). When does a car cease being "new" as far as exportation is concerned? Do you need willing volunteers to drive Range Rovers around for 12 months so that you can export them? I'm not interested for myself - nowhere near green enough for me.
Keep in mind there are some equipment changes between US and Canadian models, specifically different bumpers, immobilizers, equipment options etc. For a market that's 10 times smaller than the US, the cost to have these differences can add up.
Easy to answer. The car must be retailed and the buyer must register it and pay the appropriate taxes. After a new car, be it a demo or a service loaner, has 1500 miles, we must exchange the MSO for a dealer title. Per our franchise agreement, we cannot export a car with a dealer title. Therefore, as a dealer we are not in the export business in any way.
That raises an interesting question (one that I realise you may not want to answer on a public forum). When does a car cease being "new" as far as exportation is concerned?
I would say once the vehicle has been titled/registered and sales tax paid on it, it's a used car.
The warranty period doesn't start until you have registered the ca
Possibly incorrect as Cliff stated sometimes when the manufacture has a demo or loaner program and the car must be reported in demo status to get an additional incentive. In that case the warranty starts the day the car goes into demo status and you lose the two, three or six months plus however many miles were put on the car from the warranty.
It just depends on the brand and the dealership. I have sold demos that were marked in demo status and lost part of their warranty and I have sold demos that had not had the warranty clock start yet. Depending on how much money the factory was offering up sometimes it was crazy not to put a demo in demo status if you got $3,000 or more for leaving the car as a loaner for three months.
I am currently unemployed and having trouble making my lease pymts. I only have 8 months left on the lease, but w/the current employment status, not sure when I'll find a job. I went to my car dealer and explained, but the only option he could give me was to get into another new lease w/a Civic. My current car is an Accord EX. My husband is a big man and truthfully we could not imagine leasing a Civic for the next 3 years. Are there any other options?
It depends on the state.Some states like Michigan have no limit.It is new till it is sold irrespective of the miles.Some like Utah have a limit of 7500 miles.Rules may have changed now,but it varies from state to state.But I think in most states it is new till sold irrespective of the miles. Also,surprising Mitch,that you were a car salesman before and do not know this info and you criticize other car salesmen here for lack of product knowledge or high handed/rip off tactics.Very unusual..
You didn't say whether your husband is employed. If he is then my recommendation would be to bite the bullet and keep up on your lease payments if at all possible. That way you're done with it in eight months after which you could go for an inexpensive used car.
However, since you appear to be in a position to pick up a new lease I would question your dealer's statement that your only option is a Civic. You may want to press a little harder.
Yes - my husband is still employed. Eight months doesn't seem that long, but w/other financial obligations, it'll be tough. We'll have to "bite the bullet" and do our best. I was just wondering if there were any other options. The dealer said to get to the monthly pymts I was looking for, the Civic was my only option.
Thank you for your response. God willing I'll be employed soon ...
Baby is good but is not sleeping at night anymore. The first few nights he was fine but now he won't. :sick:
Uhh on topic yeah I sat in the 2010 Range Rover the day after the factory launch here. I couldn't get over there for the launch party as it was on my day off and I didn't feel like driving 45 minutes over there.
In CT cars are new as long as they aren't titled. We had a 2007 S80 and a 2007 S40 that were both new cars sold in Feb. of 2009. The difference was the 2007 S80 was RDRed as a demo 18 months previously and so lost 18 months and 12,000 miles of warranty but the S40 was just a left over with only 300 miles on it.
The S40 was a good buy the S80 well maybe not so much even if they did get almost 20,000 dollars off.
There is no way to lower payments of a current lease.
One thing I would suggest is to do a little bit of math to find out the following:
Your total remaining payments plus Your residual/buyout = how much the car stands you right now.
Then find out how much the car is worth on trade, or selling it privately ifyour lease contract allows you to do so.
If your car is worth more than what you owe on it then you may have a chance of selling it to someone assuming your leasign company agrees to it.
If your car is worth less than what you owe on it, you can still get rid of it, but you'll have to pay the negative difference.
Another options is finding someone to take over your lease. Because there's only 8 months left, you might have luck with that.
If there's no way of selling it, and no way of making payments, then park the car and put storage insurance on it. You will have to continue making payments so that your credit doesn't get ruined, but you might save a little bit in insurance costs.
I would give swap lease a look. They have a website not sure how the whole lease swap industry is doing with the collapse of leasing or if your company allows leases to be swapped but it is something to look into.
The one thing to be careful of is trying to get a new loan while you are unemployed. Can your husband's income cover the debt to income ratio (40-50%) lender's look at to do a deal? That ratio is based on gross income minus minimum payments that show up on your credit bureau. Mainly mortgage, credit cards, auto loans, etc.
And you were in the car business? When a new car is sold the dealership initiates a RDR - Retail Delivery Report. They basically tell the manufacturer what car was sold to whom and was it a retail, lease or cash deal. They also report incentives. If you check any new car warranty it will list the in service date - i.e. the date the car was reported in service. Registration has absolutely nothing to do with the process.
How about Florida? I can tell you in Texas it is new till sold irrespective of the mileage.And no I am not even remotely connected to the auto industry. Very surprising for a previous car salesman like you to prequalify me as a car salesman based on me posting on Edmunds and then berating other car salesfolks here who try to help us and give us their perspective and issues.No wonder you did not last long as a car salesman. :shades:
Frankly, I think manufacturers put limits on how many miles a dealer can put on a new car. My guess is the limit is 7500 miles, and it has nothing to do with what state you are in.
Dont know where you get your info from,but atleast 75% of the states if not more have no mileage limit.It varies with each state .Check the facts.As I stated in Utah it is limited to 7500 miles.There is no limit in Texas.. and yes,,it has everything to do with each state.It is not a federal rule.Is it that tough to understand this?? :confuse:
In addition, the manufacturer could care less how many miles a dealer puts on a car. they get paid on invoice. So what other car expertise do you have?
As per his previous posts,he is a disgruntled,disillusioned former car salesman who has had a change of heart as he did not want to rip customers off and has a blatant disdain for all current car salesmen include those on this board ! Whew! Some realization and wisdom has dawned on a former car salesman whose conscience has awakened and then decided he could not rip customers off in the car biz !!
The dealer said to get to the monthly pymts I was looking for, the Civic was my only option.
The dealer’s job is to sell/lease cars not to help you out of the situation you’re now in. Don’t get a fox to guard the chicken coop. You will have to tough it out for a little while and hopefully you’ll find a job soon.
Once you are out of this situation, do yourself a favor and stop thinking “monthly payments”. That’s by far the worst way to get a car. Buying a 2, 3 or 4 year old car and owning it in a few years is the way to go. If you were in this situation now and you had done that, in 8 months you’d still have a car and wouldn’t have to be looking for another one with monthly payments as the top priority.
I know that hind-sight is 20/20 but you have to re-think things for the future.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
I am not sure how to respond to ur "skepticism" abt only knowing a part of the story. But i perhaps would not be alive today had it not been for the people having diner outside of the restaurent who spotted the fire. As for how the fire started, the Fire Dept report shoud be ready soon but they have given indication as to how it started and to the extent of my surprise, the details in the article link for the recall someone provided matches up. Any ways, I strongly believe that this was a major service dept screw up and I suffered from someone's careless conduct. I do appreciate every one's comments and will keep you all informed. meanwhile, I am working with this Acura Dealership to peacefully end this unfortunate incident.
How could this be an Insurance issue? If the dealership had actually done a "meticulous 150 point ispection and reconditioning" like they claimed on the paper work they gave me and further claimed that their cars are "handpicked" for quality, they would have caught the problem and it would have caught on fire 3 hours after i bought it.
hey, once you drive it off the lot, it's a used car. If you don't believe me, try to take it back!
best as I can tell, about the only practical differences are maybe getting a lower interest rate (although probably not an issue buying from the dealer), and cases wehre the powertrain warranty doesn't transfer to the 2nd owner (like Hyundai, but again, probably not an issue if you buy from the dealer).
Cars are machines made up of thousands of mechanical parts and gallons of flammable fluids that work together to make it run.
Sometimes you can do a 1000 point inspection and not find anything, and a part might fall off or a belt might break soon after. Even brand new cars run into issues after they leave the lot. Sometimes it just happens and that's what warranties are for.
An automaker doesn't warranty a car against fire, an insurance company does. That's why you have comprehensive insurance. Why would all the new cars in the world carry comp unless it actually had a purpose? Fire and theft, that's what it's for.
The dealer can just as easily claim that there was no gas leak at the time of inspection and that it happened after the car left the premises.
Here's a quote from Subaru about their warranty, as an example:
"Damage or Malfunction Due to Abuse, Neglect, Accident or Fire These warranties do not cover any part which malfunctions, fails or is damaged due to objects striking the car, road hazards, whether on or off the road, accident, fire, neglect, abuse or any other cause beyond the control of SOA.
By definition a troll is not rational. You can disagree about something, but still have a respectful/intelligent talk (like the C4C in the other forum). Like you said, I don't think this is the case.
I would think that would depend on the cause of the fire. If it is caused by faulty wiring done by the manufacturer then it is a warranty issue. If you parked your car over a pile of leaves and the exhaust system ignites them then its an insurance issue.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Comments
I am doing an apples to apples comparison on the vehicles. Same options, etc except for the year. The MRSP on the 09's (they had about 10) range from $54-$50K. The MSRP of the 08 was $50K. The 09's have an $8000 Manufacturer discount so are all marked in the $45K range.
The dealer is taking $8000 of the 08 resulting in a very similar price to the 09's. I guess what I a asking is, will the dealer discount the 08 further or hold onto it until all of the 09's are sold and then try and get their price? I understand its impossible to know for sure, just looking for opinions.
Yes, I fully understand the warrnaty situation, not sure where the responses came from.
I think you are right with your first thought. This action is to protect Canadian dealers (and MB Canada's relatively larger markup). This issue reared it's ugly head when the Canadian $ approached (and briefly exceeded) parity with the US $. When that happens Canadian buyers look longingly at the much lower US list prices.
Contrary to popular belief, the markup for vehicles sold in Canada is no greater than for same vehicles sold in the US.
We Canadian dealers don't buy the cars for the same price as US dealers and mark them up more because we feel like it or can get away with it. All Canadian MSRPs are set by the manufacturers anyways.
And yes nwalbert. There are some restrictions about cross border shopping where US dealers won't sell you a vehicle for export. Those intructions come from their manufacturers. If you really must buy a US vehicle, then get one that's a year or two old that's used, or buy a new one register it in the US, and then register it in Canada. Keep in mind when reselling that vehicle in Canada you will get less for it on trade or private sale than a comparable car originally bought locally in Canada.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
We Canadian dealers don't buy the cars for the same price as US dealers and mark them up more because we feel like it or can get away with it. All Canadian MSRPs are set by the manufacturers anyways.
Read my post carefully, I did not accuse Canadian Dealers of marking the cars up more. We're not all dealer bashers you know.
Keep in mind there are some equipment changes between US and Canadian models, specifically different bumpers, immobilizers, equipment options etc. For a market that's 10 times smaller than the US, the cost to have these differences can add up.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I would say once the vehicle has been titled/registered and sales tax paid on it, it's a used car.
Possibly incorrect as Cliff stated sometimes when the manufacture has a demo or loaner program and the car must be reported in demo status to get an additional incentive. In that case the warranty starts the day the car goes into demo status and you lose the two, three or six months plus however many miles were put on the car from the warranty.
It just depends on the brand and the dealership. I have sold demos that were marked in demo status and lost part of their warranty and I have sold demos that had not had the warranty clock start yet. Depending on how much money the factory was offering up sometimes it was crazy not to put a demo in demo status if you got $3,000 or more for leaving the car as a loaner for three months.
Also,surprising Mitch,that you were a car salesman before and do not know this info and you criticize other car salesmen here for lack of product knowledge or high handed/rip off tactics.Very unusual..
However, since you appear to be in a position to pick up a new lease I would question your dealer's statement that your only option is a Civic. You may want to press a little harder.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thank you for your response. God willing I'll be employed soon ...
Uhh on topic yeah I sat in the 2010 Range Rover the day after the factory launch here. I couldn't get over there for the launch party as it was on my day off and I didn't feel like driving 45 minutes over there.
In CT cars are new as long as they aren't titled. We had a 2007 S80 and a 2007 S40 that were both new cars sold in Feb. of 2009. The difference was the 2007 S80 was RDRed as a demo 18 months previously and so lost 18 months and 12,000 miles of warranty but the S40 was just a left over with only 300 miles on it.
The S40 was a good buy the S80 well maybe not so much even if they did get almost 20,000 dollars off.
One thing I would suggest is to do a little bit of math to find out the following:
Your total remaining payments
plus
Your residual/buyout
= how much the car stands you right now.
Then find out how much the car is worth on trade, or selling it privately ifyour lease contract allows you to do so.
If your car is worth more than what you owe on it then you may have a chance of selling it to someone assuming your leasign company agrees to it.
If your car is worth less than what you owe on it, you can still get rid of it, but you'll have to pay the negative difference.
Another options is finding someone to take over your lease. Because there's only 8 months left, you might have luck with that.
If there's no way of selling it, and no way of making payments, then park the car and put storage insurance on it. You will have to continue making payments so that your credit doesn't get ruined, but you might save a little bit in insurance costs.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I can tell you in Texas it is new till sold irrespective of the mileage.And no I am not even remotely connected to the auto industry. Very surprising for a previous car salesman like you to prequalify me as a car salesman based on me posting on Edmunds and then berating other car salesfolks here who try to help us and give us their perspective and issues.No wonder you did not last long as a car salesman. :shades:
and yes,,it has everything to do with each state.It is not a federal rule.Is it that tough to understand this?? :confuse:
- When purchasing a car just compare OTD pricing... we all pay it.
- When purchasing a "demo" just pay a used car price for it... miles are miles folks.
The dealer’s job is to sell/lease cars not to help you out of the situation you’re now in. Don’t get a fox to guard the chicken coop. You will have to tough it out for a little while and hopefully you’ll find a job soon.
Once you are out of this situation, do yourself a favor and stop thinking “monthly payments”. That’s by far the worst way to get a car. Buying a 2, 3 or 4 year old car and owning it in a few years is the way to go. If you were in this situation now and you had done that, in 8 months you’d still have a car and wouldn’t have to be looking for another one with monthly payments as the top priority.
I know that hind-sight is 20/20 but you have to re-think things for the future.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
My Hoosier MIL just bought a "new" Mercury Mariner with 30k miles. :shades:
best as I can tell, about the only practical differences are maybe getting a lower interest rate (although probably not an issue buying from the dealer), and cases wehre the powertrain warranty doesn't transfer to the 2nd owner (like Hyundai, but again, probably not an issue if you buy from the dealer).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Sometimes you can do a 1000 point inspection and not find anything, and a part might fall off or a belt might break soon after. Even brand new cars run into issues after they leave the lot. Sometimes it just happens and that's what warranties are for.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
The dealer can just as easily claim that there was no gas leak at the time of inspection and that it happened after the car left the premises.
Here's a quote from Subaru about their warranty, as an example:
"Damage or Malfunction Due to Abuse, Neglect, Accident or Fire
These warranties do not cover any part which malfunctions, fails or is damaged due to objects striking the car, road hazards, whether on or off the road, accident, fire, neglect, abuse or any other cause beyond the control of SOA.
By definition a troll is not rational. You can disagree about something, but still have a respectful/intelligent talk (like the C4C in the other forum). Like you said, I don't think this is the case.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D