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Comments
What may make this more interesting is I actually had leased a different new car from the same dealer this past Saturday night. We had a deal in place but I wasn't 100% so they gave me the option to 'change my mind' by Monday and let me take the car w/o signing the official contract...I only signed the spot delivery paper and the temp. I brought the car back to them yesterday because of some scratches and scuffs that were much more apparent in the daylight the next day. They did not give me any problems, except a few tries to convince me to stay in the original car. I did some extra research after I knew I was returning the 1st car and I was able to re-work the terms of the deal with them and move up a model - which is the car I just picked up tonight...and I did sign all the papers this time.
So what should I do...what would you do if this was yours? Take it to service or go directly to sales and insist on a new one? I am having such a hard time rationalizing a brand new car in the shop. Thank you in advance.
2008 Sebring Ragtop, 2011 Hyundai Sonata.
Find one of these and your problems are over-
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/4159T/index.htm
So are you saying a $1500 rebate is better than 0% for 5 years? Just curious.
2015 Mustang GT, 2009 PT Cruiser, 2004 Chevy Van
Trying to get a brand new car would be a major hassle... don't think the dealership would go for it.
Sounds like a wheel balance problem which is no big deal.
You'll never going to get a "prefect" new car unless you're buying a one off Rolls Royce or Bugatti or something.
Maybe because the sale person brought it in late, after service was closed, they couldn't have checked it then. I'm sure they'll look after you.
Enjoy your new Altima.
2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg
Hang on there Old Farmer... I am only speaking from a Nissan point of veiw. When ever you are dealing with reabte or rate incentives... it ussualy works better to take the rebate.
Now on your idea of 0% ... I am sure the rebate would be higher than $1500.
The Manufacturers are going to get their money one way or another. But is always better to owe less on a car. I have done it many times where I give the rebate and the buy rate away and the customers spayments are lower than the sub vented rate.
GP
I work for Nissan and I have to agree with the others here that the tires need to be balanced. When the vehicles come to the dealers they have about 6-9 miles on them after they get off the truck. When the mechanics go through the vehicle (PDI) before you take it, they normaly go down the street to the gas station and verify that everything is working properly. But they don't bring it up on the highway. Reason being it would take too much time to test it that way. I am sure the same is with other manufacturers. You have probably already picked up your new Altima and the I'll bet the vehicle is operating properly.
I ask... When you pick up the vehicle... don't think there is a problem... Meaning if you think there is still a problem your mind will play Jedi tricks on you and you'll think it is still shaking...
Just curious which package did you get? Do you have any questions that were not answered at time of delivery that I may be able to explain to you. If you do feel free to contact me at any time through the carspace emails
Enjoy your new car! And one more thing do the sales kid a favor.... when you get the survey in the mail.... I am sure th sales kid asked you for all excellents on the survey but there will be a question on the survey.... " Where there any problems with your new Altima when you took delivery?".... I ask that you answer that question with a "NO"....
Reason being is because even though the kid said he might have felt something when he brought the car in. He was probably rushing through things to keep you the customer happy. The main reason I ask for a no on that answer is because a "yes" answer will bring his score down. When there are problems like that it ussualy out of the salesmans control. Also it sounds like he may have been a new sales person. Only reason I say that is because a veteran would not have delivered the vehicle knowing there was a issue. And if the veteran did know.... I guarantee he would have played dumb. So please be nice to your salesman :shades:
You can rest assure I wasn't your salesman. 1) I would have remembered if I had any customers recently with your problem.... and I guess I really don't need a two but....2) I work in Boston.
GP
The dealer has no assurances that the money won't bounce back until roughly 10 days have passed. They are protecting their interests and making sure that they get all the money and keep it. "
Hi, Is this the same as with a Credit Union? We were pre-approved for great rate fro a new car loan (up to a certain $$ amount which is clearly listed on the blank check. They pulled our credit reports, requested supporting docs, and approved our loan request. So, my question is why would the dealer not want to accept this type of payment? Also, why would it be necessary for the dealer to pull my credit again, especially when I am not requesting any extension of credit form that dealer?
Thanks in advance for clarifying!!
Not always the same with Credit Unions. They will typically give certified funds which is different than the Cap One draft. However, it sounds like you got a draft from your C.U.
It also sounds like you're leaving out some of the story. You went to your local dealer and picked out a car. They ran your credit to verify that you are who you say you are. It was probably a 5 liner necessary to verify your identity. And then they declined to accept the draft?
Is that what happened?
Thanks, hope I can help here.
Not always the same with Credit Unions. They will typically give certified funds which is different than the Cap One draft. However, it sounds like you got a draft from your C.U.
It also sounds like you're leaving out some of the story. You went to your local dealer and picked out a car. They ran your credit to verify that you are who you say you are. It was probably a 5 liner necessary to verify your identity. And then they declined to accept the draft?
Is that what happened?
Thanks, hope I can help here.
Hi madman, Thanks for your quick reply! I haven't gone through the purchase process yet. I was just actually wondering about the draft question because I've already been pre-approved with a blank check from my credit union. Just want to be prepared when I am ready to make that purchase.
Also curious as to how a dealer pulling someone's credit file can prove a person's identity just doesn't make sense to me. If they need to verify identity, wouldn't a government issued ID such as a DL and or passport be sufficient proof for confirming identity? I would think fraudulent SS numbers and cards are much more prevalant than fake US passports.
Anyhow, thanks again!
In regards to the identity verification - it does a couple of things. Some banks won't allow you to verify funds, we run the credit and make sure that the potential buyer isn't a [non-permissible content removed]. If he hasn't paid his grandma for yardwork she did or if he has Pizza Hut listed for $20 delinquent, then we won't sell him a car without a cashier's check or certified funds. It also gives us an opportunity to see if we could actually save him money on his rate as well. I'm not sure why the dealership pulled yours though.
Good luck out there!
LOL
"Listen [non-permissible content removed], pay your grandma for the yardwork she did for you, and pay Pizza Hut the $20 you owe them" the we'll talk about a car loan.
I've seen many not so good credit reports during the past year. The ones that usually have no chance of approvals from our banks are:
Behind on child supprort. If you don't pay for your own kids, then chances are you won't pay for a car either.
Money owing to payday loan places: If you borrow money from a payday loan place because nobody else will lend you money in the first place and you don't return that money in 2 -4 weeks, and it goes to collections, then how is anyone else gonna lend you any money especially on a 5 or 6 year term.
Behind on car payments with a sub prime car financing company. Sometimes last chances are really last chances. Focus on paying those late payments off first before even thnking of shopping for another car.
2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg
Doesn't make sense to me either, I can pull out a drivers license, voter ID card, several credit cards with my name on them, an FOID card and my work ID (state issued BTW) that can all establish my identity. There is no need to run a credit report.
2008 Sebring Ragtop, 2011 Hyundai Sonata.
Nope. That's the choice I had from Mitsubishi. I would normally take the rebate and pay cash but they offered to finance EVERYTHING including the sales tax at 0%. I ran it through the online calculators and they all say go for the 0%. I figure I can make back at least $1500 in the next 5 years and I still have the cash for a rainy day.
I just thought from your statement that I had missed something.
2015 Mustang GT, 2009 PT Cruiser, 2004 Chevy Van
Hi Madman, The dealer didn't pull my credit - it was my credit union that pulled my credit report along with requesting docs to pre-approve my loan. So, would there still be need for the dealer to pull if I'm not financing or requesting cerdit through them? I'm just more of a private person when it comes to my personal finances, hence, only securing a loan through my bank -- which also carries my mortgage -- versus a stranger where I do not have an on-going business relationship. (No offense to any F&I guys or dealers here!).
Thanks again! I am definitely going to more prepared this time around with my car purchase!
You didn't have anything missing... I was thinking more along the lines that it had some qualifications such as 36 months, certain amount of money financed... but reall when I it comes down it to it... and i am sure the Eclipse is doing great... it is mitsubishi... They are doing everything they can right now.
GP
That is all fine. I wouldn't take a bank draft where you fiil out any amount unless I had researched it with the bank. I would still do business with you but I would come to a agreement with you on figures, sign contracts, And send you to your bank to get a certified bank check.... something that was computer generated. The contracts would list your bank as the lien holder. When you came back with your certified check I would let you take delivery :shades:
Everyone is happy!
GP
Why the huge difference? I have no idea. Our credit scores are pretty high, our debt is very small and paid diligently, on time ... except for one ugly line -- an old foreclosure. The only reason I can think of is we've had credit cards with them for a long time, which have been well managed. :confuse: Beats me.
We do plan to refi, actually, within six months, but even in that scenario, I didn't think it made sense to do the dealer plans.
The service manager was BSing you, only wanted you to go away, and hopefully not come back.
If you get a phone call about 'how was our service', I think you should give them an earfull about the shoddy service from this service manager.
one more thing, i got the '09 3.5se premium and was debating about adding a sunroof/moonroof either solo or in the sport package...i chose not to get one...afterward the sales mgr said if i ever changed my mind he would 'split the cost' on the after-market one they would use...so i got it in writing - he said it would cost me $650-$700 and that it's as good or better than the factory one...i really doubt i'm gonna do it but i am curious if an aftermarket sunroof could be better than factory-installed and how is the price he gave me? thank you.
I would take that with a gain of salt. I have know several people who did the after market ones and they ended up leaking after a while. No one I know with a factory one has ever had one leak. Also if you decide to do it make sure it won't void the cars warranty.
2008 Sebring Ragtop, 2011 Hyundai Sonata.
The company we use uses the same brand that the 2009 Accords use. I have never heard of one leaking and they come with a lifetime guarantee against leaking.
Also, very unlikely it could affect the car's warranty in any way.
Second... On the survey you will be able to write things down. You can complain about certain people in writing. But just make sure you check all excellents. The kids monthly bonus are more than likely tied into these surveys... At least everyone I know has there bonus tied into the surveys...
Third.... If my co workers knew I said this I could get black balled. I recomend that you stay away from after market roofs. they are definitley NOT better than the factory roofs. The ones from the factory have drians built in for light rain. The after market ones are OK but I only use them as a last resort for someone. The price he gave you was cost. But I would not suggest you get one.
GP
The company we use uses the same brand that the 2009 Accords use. I have never heard of one leaking and they come with a lifetime guarantee against leaking.
Also, very unlikely it could affect the car's warranty in any way.
Wow... Isell... does it look just like a factory roof?
The ones we do also have a lifetime warranty only for the original owner. it is not transferable.
GP