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Nissan Maxima

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Comments

  • Yep...All Nissan cars now have clearcoat. In the past, the only ones not clearcoated were the white cars. Now ALL have it. Enjoy your new ride.


    Joe
  • My friend purchased a 91 Maxima SE w/100k miles on it for $4600 from a private owner. The car seemed to be in good condition but now everything is going. He had to replace the waterpump and now he has a cracked axle. He replaced the four tires but I don't count that as a problem. Now his suspension is going. Everytime he hits a bump he loses control of his steering a little bit. It says on his registration that the car was a total loss cause it was in a accident. The first owner after 4400 miles got into a fender bender and sold the car to the guy that sold it to my friend. Seems the fender bender also pushed part of the car into the engine causing the pulleys to crack. He has no way of getting back at the guy because he has had the car for a month now. I just wondering is car really worth fixing or is it better just to take a loss and run? Oh yeah does the 91 Maxima need 92 octane people have been telling him that for a while.
  • Yes the 91 Max uses super unleaded (91+ octane).

    A cracked axle ?....you mean half shaft ? Did the guy who sold your friend tell him it was totaled ?
    Without seeing the car, it's hard to tell if it's worth fixing or not. Shocks wear out, tires wear out...as do waterpumps and halfshafts but...it sounds like this car was really wrecked.
    As long as the car was fixed properly, and it's just a coincidents that theses parts are going, it may be fixable.
    First off...have your friend have it checked out FULLY which he should have done 1ST. He can then make a determination on weather he wants to spend what it'll take to bring it back to a "before accident" condition.
    Good Luck

    Joe
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    Sounds like your friend got taken. Most states allow private transactions to occur "as is". But with guys selling wrecks for $4600 it's only a matter of time b4 states make it difficult to sell a car privately. See if you can talk to someone in your state who understands implied warranties.
  • If the break-in period is so critical to ensure the longevity of the engine why don’t they just come broken in from the factory? I don’t know how much more it would cost the consumer, however knowing that my engine was broken in under the strictest of conditions would be worth the cost. The company could monitor everything from the emissions to oil consumption for the first 100 hours. When you did receive your car the odometer would read zero but the engine could have an hour clock to monitor hours used. I own a 2000 SE and I knew the break- in period was for the first 1000 miles. I have to say I was guilty pushing the RPM’s above 4k once and awhile. Did I really do major damage to the engine? Problem not, however if car manufacture really thought the break-in period was that important they should put a governor on the car so it can’t exceed a certain RPM during the break –in period or have the engine already broken in.
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    I wonder how important it really is. If you do it right it may increase your chances of having an engine lasting a lot longer and with fewer problems, but I'm not sure. But think about 100 hours of engine time on a shop bench. That's nearly five days. That adds a lot of time to the manufacture of a car. Multiply that times $40 per hour for labor, overhead and profit. Ouch!
  • I know that many people have had brake rotor problems related to over tightened lug nuts. My luck nuts are torqued to the proper torque setting but I am not at all happy with how the brakes perform after 3 or 4 hard stops within a few minutes. My brakes work fine if you were a little old lady, but if you want to have some fun driving and you have to make a few hard stops boy do they suck.

    I was thinking of replacing the Nissan OEM rotors with Stillen Cross Drilled Rotors, has anyone replaced their OEM rotors with much better after market rotors. If I complain to Nissan maybe they will replace them with the same poorly designed rotors, so what would the point be then? The web site for Stillen is the following:
    http://www.stillen.com/brakes/rotors/rotors.html

    Does anyone know if Nissan redesigned or changed their original OEM rotor since they had so much trouble.

    George
  • No they didn't change their rotors but....you're right...for extreme driving conditions, and quick braking, they really do "suck"...they fade fairly quick.
    The change0over to Stillen's rotors, and pads should get you the results you're looking for.

    Break-in.....Break-in isn't what it used to be, although it's still a good idea to let everything seat properly, I wouldn't say you have to drive any particular way for the 1st 1000 miles. I would definitely change the oil at the 1k mark, and not use synthetic oil until aprox 3 or 4k.

    Joe
  • arronw1 posted a while back about a cd changer he got from Premier Audio. They do indeed have a six disk cd changer that is fully compatible with the Bose head unit, runs $234 + $8 shipping. If you are out there arronw1, did you install it yourself and if so how difficult was it. Is the Max pre-wired for the CD changer? Also where did you mount the unit? It looks like there is a space on the left side of the trunk for a cd changer. I have also heard of some being mounted under the rear shelf in the trunk. I also have a question for anyone with the Nissan Cd Changer. Premier Audio claims that the Nissan changer will not play home burned cd's while theirs will. Is this true about the Nissan unit?

    Thanks for any info.

    Chris
  • Has anyone tried to install the QM218.03CX component set from MB Quart in a 2000 or 2001 GXE? I am wondering how much effort an installer would have to go through (i.e. how much permanent modification to the existing small speaker holes) ?

    Anyone gone through any similar situation (mounting component speakers versus bi-axial or full range)?

    Anyone have any experience putting rear speakers in back deck versus the existing "in-door" location?

    Thanks,
    Mat
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    I wouldn't get cross drilled ones. If rotors are CNC machine pressed, they will warp very easily. Also, when you run stock brakes with cross drilled rotors, you loose contact patch between the brake and the rotor, so your stopping will actually take longer. I would try some slotted rotors instead of cross drilled. Powerslot has a good product, and I would recommend looking into them.
  • If yopu go to www.courtesy-nissan.com they have the actual Nissan (Clarion is the builder of Nissan Audio, including the Bose units) unit for almost the same price.

    Joe
  • As long as you use Stillens pads with their rotors, you'll be ok. It's the heat build-up along with the thickness of the rotor that'll warp quickly. Stillens rotors are the same as stock except that their cross drilled for better cooling. Slotted may help but...not as cool running as the cross drilled.....But either one would be better than stock for spirited driving.

    Joe
  • Actually I only want to change the rotors. If I changed the pads to the stillen metal-matrix pads I would be concerned about the additional noise that the metal-matrix pads would make. Stillen sells both slotted and cross drilled rotors.

    Joe / Anthony do you both agree that slotted rotors would be a better choose if I didn't want to change to Metal-Matrix brake pads??

    In addition if I changed rotors and I did not want to change to the metal pads, do you feel that I should change to new Nissan OEM pads due to the rotors being changed with 5,500 miles on the pads??

    Thanks for your help

    George
  • You can use either slotted or cross drilled....either way...you HAVE to change the stock pads. The stock pads are too soft, and won't last with either of those.
    Noise ? When was the last time you could actually HEAR your brakes ? You won't notice any change except the better stopping power w/o fade.

    Joe
  • adg44adg44 Posts: 385
    I have EBC brakes with stock VW rotors on my car. I wouldn't be concerned with any noise, mine only squeek a bit if they get very warm. The additional braking power that you'll get from different brake pads is great. I also changed them because I didn't like all the brake dust I was getting from the stock VW pads. I would recommend slotted rotors if I were you. The slotted rotors will wear down your brake pads faster, but the slots in the rotor keep the gases off of the brake pad during braking, so you get a stronger stop. I've never used slotted rotors, but I know enough about them. One thing to remember is that stock Nissan pads are organic, which are very soft and won't last very long at all with slotted rotors. If I were you, I'd just get the same Nissan rotors and make sure that your lugs are always evenly torqued. As for the 5500 miles on your brake pads, I wouldn't be concerned at all. The groves from the old rotors on those pads will go away once they are bedded in with the new rotors. Once you replace the rotors (whatever kind) just drive around normally for about 300 miles and try to avoid hard stops. After the 300 miles is over, you should do what we call "setting the brakes." Make sure that your brakes are warm before you do this so that the sudden temperature change doesn't warp the rotors again. What I'm trying to say is don't get up at 6:00 in the morning and go set the brakes at 6:02! Just drive around a bit. Take the car up to 70 MPH, put the clutch in (or neutral if you have an auto), and slam on the brakes completely until you come to a complete stop. Drive for about a half a mile so the brakes can cool a bit, and do it again. Then repeat the process one more time, for a total of three. When you set the brakes, it increases the life of the pads and the rotors. The pads will be completely even with the rotors, and it will eliminate any squeeking you might have had. One more thing you might want to worry about with EBC or mintex or metal-matrix pads is that they are a harder compound and they will wear the rotors faster and the pads won't last as long! Check out www.ebc-brakes.com. I really like the set that I have.

    Good luck.

    - Anthony
    [email protected]
  • lofquistlofquist Posts: 281
    Gregg (grefor) [reply to post #167],

    Yes the buying from Canada is real and also easy. I know of about a dozen of us who have gone up there in the last couple months. See my most recent post #29. But basically the dollar is so strong that the prices are incredibly low. For example:
    1) Maxima GXE, auto trans, traction control, and
    convenience pkg. Convenience pkg contains
    everything in the Meridian and Com and Con pkgs.
    $20,800. (US dealer invoice is $22,740)

    2) Maxima SE 20th Anniv Ed. Auto trans. Includes
    traction control, Bose, Meridian pkg, and leather.
    Does not have the ground effects though. $23,500.
    (US dealer invoice is $28,006)

    3) Maxima GLE. Auto trans. Includes traction
    control, sunroof, Meridian pkg. $22,700. (US
    dealer invoice is $25,852)

    NJ is an easy one day drive back from Toronto. Email me and I can fill you in and give some contacts too.

    Stephen (colicin) [reply to post #166],
    Glad your trip up to Toronto was great and all went as planned. I appreciate the compliments. I'm having fun helping folks with this.

    Jon
    [email protected]
  • I am going to be in the market for a new Max. Here is my question, I see that Motortrend is saying the Max is going to get the new 3.5 liter engine next year for 260HP. If my 235K ride that I have now, will last that long. Do I get the 2001 Max or wait for the 3.5? If this was a American car there would be "NO WAY" that I would even consider doing it. Do you think that Nissan will Make sure that this will be a rock solid engine. Also this new engine will be in the current body stye, So in 2003 the Max will get the bigger body with the 3.5/260HP engine and you would think that this would not be as quick as the 3.5 in the current body style. Any thoughts on this, Again with my luck my ride will probably take a dump and I won't have a choice.
  • personally, the current max feels just right in terms of size. if it gets any bigger, i'll feel like i'm in a intrepid or some other big bulky american... no thanks!
  • danny25danny25 Posts: 119
    You won't have to worry about the 3.5L not being rock solid, yes, it will be the first year they put it in the Maxima, but it's already being used in the Pathfinder. They should have all the bugs, if any, worked out by the time they put it in the Maxima.
  • Bob,

    If Nissan Model Matrix at http://www.freshalloy.com/cars/nissan/nissan_matrix.html and as you said Motortrend are correct in their predictions for the 2002 Maxima, then the 2002 Maxima will be very fast and powerful. Remember if they are correct the 2003 Maxima moves up in size and you will loss the added HP to weight Ratio gain that you got in the 2002 Maxima. This sounds like a great deal in that the 2002 Maxima could be the real car enthusiasts car for many years to come.

    If I were in your shoes I would try and hold out for the 2002 Maxima. If they do not put the 3.5L engine in the 2002, then they will most likely put it in the 2003 in the full size version Maxima? By the way the Pathfinder is now using the 3.5L engine, so it will not be a new engine design.

    George
  • How do the dates on the TSB's relate to on what cars are affected? For example the TSB for the TCM issue was marked 05/00. Does this means that cars with a build on or after 05/00 should not be affected by the TSB? The right strut noise TSB was issued 03/00...cars built aftre this date should not exhibit these problems? Not just these 2 examples but all TSB's(except for rattles, squeaks TSB's etc)

    Thanks
  • If you can't take the normal Maxima noises that that your car makes, why don't you consider trading it in for anything except another Nissan. I am sure you would be a much happy person afterwards.

    George
  • I have to agree with you about the current Maxima being the right size. That's why the 2002 Maxima might be our last chance to own a Maxima and still feel like we are in a Sports Sedan. We will have to wait and see what changes will be coming in 2002?

    George
  • I hate NYC!! my new islandic pearl GLE only has 1200 miles on it and this weekend, i noticed someone had bumped into my back bumper and took off a thin strip of paint!! arghhhh!!! it either have only one layer of paint on it or they hit me pretty bad cause i see a black line! what do you guys do about covering up scratches? i'm thinking about getting some nissan touchup paint, apply it very lightly and then applying some wax... any advice?
  • Those dates only mean that's when it was filed. They pertain to ALL 2k's.

    As for the 3.5 VQ. It is NOT a new engine...it is in fact the same VQ used in the Maxima currently, just bored to 3.5L and with a few MINOR changes including Nissans version of Variable Valve Timing. Sorry to burst the bubbles of some but...you won't see the 3.5 in the current Maxima version. It will, however, be available in the new 2003's larger (and possible RWD) version, and even then...only on the SE model.
    Keep in mind though that Nissan changes things quite often...lol..maybe to throw some people off...who knows. But also remember...Freshalloy
    hasn't been right on a Nissan product in the few years I've been watching them, and they are not in ANY way affiliated with Nissan Motor Corp.

    Joe
  • Depending on how big the scratch is....I'd have it repainted. You have the same color car as I do, and the touch-up paint is meant only for that...TOUCH-UP. The touch-up paint doesn't match properly because of the pearl, and it'll stand out like a sore thumb !

    Joe
  • Joe...as I understand it a TSB is a warranty that
    Nissan provides the dealer with that means that
    they have discovered an issue with certain cars and
    they will cover it if a customer complains....if a
    TSB was issued lets say in Sept of 99 because of a
    certain issue with the glovebox...because Nissan
    has identified this as an issue would they continue to build cars in later months with this same issue or would it not be safe to say that a car built in 02/00 would not have this same glovebox problem?

    Of course I'm just making this TSB up but I think
    you know what I mean.

    Thanks as always

    Jeff
  • blackstone3
    Break-In is for more than just the engine - There are thousands of moving parts in a car, they all have to get to know each other before being stressed by high speed and temperature, or they can be slightly damaged or hardened. Besides the engine parts, there are pumps, seals, alternators, transmission bearings, u-joints, wheel bearings, etc. etc. Also - given the number of new cars sold daily, I doubt you would pay for the space and overhead to break in your engine for you - it would be VERY costly.

    I did NOT do a break-in 3 new cars ago. My payoff was really poor mileage, much less even than the EPA rating for the 3 years I had it. My last 2 cars were REALLY carefully broken-in for more than 1000 miles, and I got terrific gas mileage and great performance - up to 30 mpg on a Lexus ES300. Coincidence? Maybe, but it is cheap insurance.
  • Most people that touch-up their cars make them look worst. But if you have time and patience you can make the car look much better without the expense of painting the entire bumper. Take a look at this link regarding Rock Chip Repairs, you can use similar methods on your repair.
    http://smiley.tzo.com/fbody/paintchip.htm

    If you pay to have the bumper repainted and you live in NYC, how long do you think it will last before someone else bumps you???

    Good luck

    George
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