Four good ways to find out what a good deal is for a Maxima GLE: 1) Check out the TMV (True Market Value) here on Edmunds in the NEW CAR section and use that to negotiate with the dealer 2)Use the Power Shopper section of NEW CARS to get a guaranteed cost from Carsdirect.com 3)Use the TMV as a guideline to put in a lower bid on priceline.com. I did this for my 2001 Maxima SE and got a very good price and was in and out of the dealership in 45 minutes with no negotiating. 4)Check post #29 in this same topic. He tells you how to go to Canada and buy there. The US$ is very strong against the Canadian$ and the writer posts costs in Canada vs US and there are savings of thousands of $, I foubd out about this too late, but it is worth a trip. Read the post for details. Good luck-Gregg
I know you may be trying to avoid a return trip to the dealer, but if your CD changer problems can be traced to the last trip to the dealer..take it back there and have them fix it. It does sound like something became disconnected, hopefully you can find it under the trunk liner, otherwise...go to the dealer, my 2 cents.
Andrew, Have you seen the posts about buying from Canada? A fully loaded GLE will sell for about $22,700. That's $3000 under invoice here.
You are in a great position. I live near Minneapolis and went to Toronto to buy a couple months ago. And a number of people from NYC have gone up there too.
See my post #29 above for a little more detail. I'll be glad to help you out with this. Between Maximas and Pathfinders I know of at least 15 people who have done this after I bought. It's actually very easy and you can save a bundle.
A word of caution – avoid the service department of Legend Nissan in Long Island, NY.
I am quite disappointed with them. I had an appointment today to re-torque the lug nuts and align the wheels. I’ve read a number of posts in this forum about the lug nuts being over-torqued by the factory and I wanted to be on the safe side. Also, I wanted to have a wheel alignment done as the car pulls to the right. It has been pulling to the right ever since I bought it, and it currently has 285 miles on the clock.
I was told by the service department that the lug nuts come properly tightened from the factory and therefore they will not re-torque them for free. They will not even check them for free. So I agreed to pay for this.
They also told me they would not do the wheel alignment for free. The service guy told me there was only one driving wheel, and the car will always pull to one side. I find this hard to believe, and frankly, quite unreasonable.
Overall, I feel they were rather unprofessional and rude. They treated me as if I was there to argue with them, and they had this petty confrontational attitude right from the start.
I quite like my new car, but I find the service (at least at Legend Nissan) very bad. I wish I bought or leased a BMW (which is my old car) or a Lexus, only because the service there is so much better.
Can anyone recommend a good service department for Nissan in Long Island? I will appreciate your suggestions.
sgrd0q: I am so sorry you're having to deal with such rudeness and unprofessionalism. I took my car in last week to re-torque lug nuts, align (it pulled slightly to the left), and the commonplace 1000K oil change. So, I took in for the same reason you did, but also had the oil changed.
I was treated with utmost respect and the service manager said he even knew why I was getting the re-torquing done and he also agreed that cars can get out of alignment when being transported. Now, honestly, I can't verify that the lug nuts were re-torqued, but I believe they were. And I know the alignment was fixed. It sucks that you were treated like that!
I live in Alabama, so I can't really help you, but I definitely would never go back to Legend Nissan.
Thanks, Joe, for the definitive advice. Now I know not to look under the car but in the trunk behind the liner. You provide an invaluable service to us barbecue mechanics.
lsf, my problem apparently arose due to the replacement of the back bumper cover by a body shop. I know they had the trunk liner out on both sides when they were doing the bumper work, and they had to replace the bumper twice due to their bad shortcut decisions the first time around. Now I have the dilemma of going back to them and possibly risking more shortcuts or doing it myself and risking inept liner handling. They are only a mile from my house but I think I will give it a try first. It should be just a couple of liner plugs to be taken out. Thanks!!
no... the black mark was my bumper.. i checked.. but thanks for the suggestion.. i wish it was the other person's bumper though.... i mean, the scratch is not that bad, but it's a brand new car and it sticks out like a sore thumb on a white car. i'll use some touchup paint only because its the size of a toothpick, nothing bigger.
anth, Figure that a loaded Pathfinder LE (auto, AWD, leather, LSD, mats, more) will end up costing you about $27,900 at today's exchange rate (including duty). That's about $3500 under US dealer invoice.
Pop on over to the Pathfinder forum - we seem to be discussing Canada buys just about every day. Search on "lofquist" and/or "jon" and you'll find lots of info. Email me and I can give you all the details.
Most dealers I've used will realign a car for free in the first 12k miles; and not once has one complained in the first 1000.
As to the 'driving wheel' excuse -- it sounds like the service writer's blaming torque steer. In that case it's true -- but only on high mileage cars with a lot of differential wear. A well designed front wheel drive car may experience some torque steer under hard acceleration (which in my experience is generally to the left, not the right). It should not be present at any other time.
Alignment, a bad tire, a high crown road (assuming you drive on the down side of the crown), or problematic differential/transaxle could all be sources of a constant pull/drift to the right.
As you already observed: find a different service shop. I believe I'd send a letter to Nissan and copy the dealership manager as well. They'll never fix their service problems if they don't know about it.
I shopped at Legend and walked out after five minutes with their sales guy. The guy was a complete moron. This goes back many years, (3 Nissans and 1 Infiniti later) however it left a real bad taste in my mouth. I bought 2 of my last three Nissans at Habberstad in Huntington and they have been great. I lease my cars and do my own oil changes, and I'm happy to say I've only brought a Nissan in for service twice, brakes and tires on a Pathfinder. I leased my current car a 2kGLE from Smithtown Nissan and while the sales department was very professional, I doubt I'll use their service department because it's about an hour from me. The only reason I leased there was that they are the Autobytel rep on Long Island and Habberstad wouldn't match their price, which happened to be $15 less a month then anyone else.
Thank you all for your comments. (jkwcmw - I just made an appointment with Habberstad Nissan for tomorrow - a colleague of mine recommended them as you did.)
I guess I'll get the wheel alignment done at Habberstad and I'll pay for it, and then I'll complain to Nissan about the service at Legend, and ask for a refund for the alignment...
By the way, I complained to the sales person at Legend and we test drove my car as well as another 2001 GLE. He agreed with me that mine was pulling to the right while the other car was not. We tested them on the same road.
His manager then spoke to their service department, and then came back to me saying that everything was normal with my car and they couldn't do anything for me.
DEMAND that they do an alignment !!! Especially if the car is still under the 12k/12month "adjustment" time. If they dont....go somewhere else and be sure to call Nissan Customer Service to tell them about that dealer ! Telling you that the car is "one wheel drive" and will always pull is absolute BS....LOL..And quite funny to me. The car is being pulled by BOTH front wheels while moving along...the only time you'll notice that the right front wheel is the main driving wheel is, maybe if you get stuck in snow or a quick start in the rain. DON'T YOU DARE PAY FOR AN ALIGNMENT !!!!
After reading about all the people buying new 2001 Maximas....I'm beginning to wonder how good of a deal i got on my 2000 SE that I got in July of this year. I paid 24,999. I got: Sterling Mist Maxima SE Bose C&C package...but don't remember what came with that package. 17" alloys mud guards, sun roof wind deflector cloth seats floor mats automatic .....hmm....was 24999 a good deal?
Also...budhinkley.. what is documentation fee.
my dealer had some advertisement fee on the price, and I complained about it, started walking out on the dealer over it, and finally he just took it out....tried to throw me a guilt trip about it too! hehe
but i'd have to say.....23769 for a GLE sounds like a good price! It's more than 1k less than my 2000 SE!
I've got 8600 miles on my Max so far and I haven't experienced any chirping problems...but I know my trunk is a little out of alignment (the gap on the right side is a bit wider than on the left side). And the trunk lid is scratching the bumper of the car. Haven't had time to get that fixed yet. The main problem i have is with the rattles i have. Mainly from the center console area, right around the stereo. I find that when I push the plastic face of my stereo (right below the cassette door) it dampens the rattling a bit. Also..I have a problem with my passenger door not being flush with the rest of the car.
My ‘98 Nissan Maxima almost stalls every morning when I start it up. The rest of the day it’s fine it only does this when the car has sat for a while (like overnight). I got some fuel injector cleaner and it seemed to help, but now it’s right back to where I was before. Anyone have this problem? I should hope that it is covered under the waranty comments?
That's not a common problem with the Maxima. Have it checked at your dealer. As long as you're under 50k, it'll be covered. Make sure when you put it away for the night, it's warmed up. If you just start it cold for a few seconds...like to move it into the garage, w/o warming it for a few minutes, you'll have a hard time sometimes starting it in the morning....this is normal for the VQ engine.
$23,769 is the base invoice price. The final price was $26,325 minus the $7,900 trade-in.
In this dealership in Maine, they charge an equal documentaion fee of $149 to all customers. I think it may be a law in Maine that the same doc. fee be charged to everyone. You just work the other figures around it - no big deal.
We have that here in Mass too. It covers preparation of registration and insurance papers for the vehicle. It's standard in Mass, $189 is what I remember.
Word of caution...don't fret about what you paid for your Max if it was last week or last year. Someone will always have done a better job negotiating (or fibbing). As long as your happy when you leave the dealership, you've done well. If you're not happy, don't agree to the price!
In your previous post 238 you talked about two TSBs, the strut noise and brake noise. I'm interested in the strut problem. My 2000 Max has the front end noise (thunk) sometimes. It happens when I drive over bumps, curbs, etc. Again it only does it sometimes, strange.
I've already had the left strut replaced (dealer gave me a a hard time but finally fixed it) but I still have another front end noise. What exactly is the noise caused by and how is it fixed? Is it dangerous if it's not repaired?
Since there's a TSB for this I hope I won't have a problem getting this fixed like my previous experience.
Hello all! Thank you so much for your help and advice. I finally had my wheel alignment done and now my car drives straight. I fixed the alignment at Habberstad Nissan. They were really very helpful and professional. They even gave me a ride to work and offered to pick me up after the car was done. And even though the car was not purchased from them, they did all the work without charging me. And I didn’t even ask for the work to be done free of charge – I guess they noticed I had only 300 miles on the clock and fixed my problem for free. When I picked up the car they told me the car alignment was out of spec, and they said it sometimes happens during transportation, which is exactly what joenissan posted earlier on this board. Thank you joenissan!
Now I’ll have to complain to Nissan about Legend.
We just purchased a 2001 SE 20th Anniversary Edition. After reading some of these posts, I checked my wheels myself. It was weird, as the driver's front and passenger's rear wheels were both WAY over-torqued compared to the other two wheels.
Also, the car went back to the dealer after one week because it was pulling slightly to the right. No squabble at all from my dealer here in Columbus, OH - Buckeye Nissan. The sales and service experiences have been great. The alignment was out of spec., and the car now tracks nice and straight as it should.
As far as wind noise intruding, is this car (Max. SE) noisy or is it me/my car? We previously drove 2 different versions of the Mitsu Diamante, a '93 model and the newer styled '97. Both of those cars were considerably quieter than our new SE. Does anyone else think their's is noisier than it should be? Has anyone had any door adjustments made to try and "quiet it down"?
That's TSB NTB00030, and although I've not personally replaced any parts that have come in for this TSB, it's for a right front strut rod noise, and is not dangerous.
Sgr....Good, I'm glad it's ok now !!
Brian...If you have an SE w/17" wheels, it's going to be quite louder than the ones w/o those wheels. The Maxima GLE has an interior sound level of 65db at 60 MPH which is quieter than the Diamante. Make sure all the weather stripping is in place around the door that you seem to hear the wind from. With the stiffer suspension alone, it'll be a bit noisier than the GLE.
I too have a 2K SE, and the noise is louder than I thought it would be. I believe lots of it has to do with tires and road surfaces. When I drive to Omaha from St. Paul (6hrs), the road noise is considerably louder than when I drive to Duluth (2hrs). The main difference between the two drives is the surface of the highway. The road to Omaha is mostly concrete based to support large semi-trucks, as opposed to more asphalt based. Part of it is wind noise, but pay attention to the road surface and you'll notice a huge difference in how noisy the car is. And I only have the 16" wheels, I expect it's even louder with the 17"er's, which I still want anyway, for aesthetic and handling reasons.
Just my 2 cents.
Also, as for squeaks and rattles. My rattles seem to be pretty well gone, after 7 trips to the dealer, but now it's the trim. The door panels creak when pushed on, and that piece that runs up the inside, between the front and rear driver side doors, right next to my ears, behind the seatbelt, MAN IS THAT THING CREAKY. Anybody else? You can just push on it and SQUEAK, CREAK, CREAK!!! If this darn Maxima didn't have so many noises it sure would be one hell of a car.
I do have the 17' wheels on 20th AE SE. I don't believe it is "road/tire noise" as I call it. I can tell the difference in road surfaces and any resulting noise - in the SE and the Diamantes. This sounds like wind noise only, although I might be wrong. Thanks for suggesting that I check all of the seals, Joe - have not done that. Do you know if the GLE has more sound deadening material in it similar to the I30, or do all models of SE's have the same level of soundproofing?
i got my 2001 Gle last month, Gray Lustre Metallic/balck, fully loaded except 6-CD changer. $25,876 + $120(Doc fee)+tax(NYC 8.25%). Andrew, i brought mine from Koeppel Nissan in Queens.
No...all Maximas have the same amout of sound deadening material. The I30's use a bit more for a more luxury feel. The reason the SE is louder than the GLE is simply the stiffer suspensionin the SE, along with the wider, sport tires.
I have a 01 GLE that's 1350 miles, and sometimes when the engine has been idle for over 8 hours, it's hard to start. I would have to start the car more then once. Is this problem normal? I can hear the engine crank, but it cranks for about 5 seconds, then it stops. When I try it again for the second time, it sometimes start and it sometimes doesn't. It happens twice each week. Does anyone know the problem? When I went to the dealer for an oil change, they told me that they didn't see a problem like that. I also told them that there are noises from the glovebox and the dashboard, and they told me that they can still hear it after taking the glovebox out, and they said that they wanted to take out part of the dash to see if anything is wrong?!?!?!? Should I let them do that? Sometimes you hear the rattle, and sometimes you don't. SOS..SOS...SOS!!!
The VQ does have a normal but annoying trait. If you start the car for a VERY short period of time, such as to put it in the garage after it's been sitting for awhile, then let it sit overnight...it will sometimes be a bit hard to start the next morning. And when it does start...make sure the garage door is OPEN because my god...what a smell it puts out. Like I said...it's been a normal trait ever since it's induction in the 95 Maxima, and won't hurt anything. AND...although it may be hard to start in such situations...it will ALWAYS start. Just be sure to let it run for a few minutes if you have to move it cold, that'll cure your problem.
And......Don't let them disassemble your dash...you'll have even MORE rattles than you have currently.
So I take it that disassembling the dash is a messy job. I don't currently own a Max, but my car (Acura) also has recurring dash squeaks and minor rattles, and I've been debating whether to let the dealer monkey around with it. I too have concerns that it may be worse afterwards.
Disassembling ANY cars dash will usually open up a can of "squeaky" worms. It's better to just try and isolate one squeak at a time. Nissan uses a felt-like thin tape in between most of it's dash parts. That tape, once removed or moved, won't remain properly seated and can make things worse.
How do you remove the A-Pillar? I fixes a rattle by jamming some weather stripping down inbetween the dash and pillar but would like to remove the A-Pillar and put some taped weather strip in there. (stuff I have in there looks like a cigarette butt lol)
heard that you have to be really careful with a-pillars as the clips break real easy...
It just snaps off. Any clips that come off can easily be snapped back on. Get sone regular weather stripping and use it where you need it...works just fine.
The glove box has two sources of noise. One is from the latch assembly, where the round key log assembly rattles badly. The second source is due to the glove box not pulling up tight against the (3) rubber stoppers.
How has things turned out with the independent mechanic who was going to look at your car?
In regard to removing the A-pillar cover, Joenissan is correct, in that it just snaps off. I have to warn you however, that you have to exert a considerable amount of force to remove it.
Basically, just work your fingers behind it and start pulling straight outward. It will eventually pop loose, but you will think that its going to break for sure!
Does anyone know if the cell phone wiring, which apparently is done at the factory for the Max (and Infiniti I30), can be used to wire a "car kit" for the Motorola StarTac phone? I would like to make my phone truly hands-free (and safer than any other method), and wonder if the pre-wiring is good for anything other than a dealer's charging $800 to install their phone (yes, the very price I was quoted). Thanks. -umpopa
I actually have not had a chance to get my car into him....been pulling a lot of OT(well because I'm salary, free OT) the past couple of weeks. Its gotten a little more interesting...I've now had a few people tell me that they have heard the "screech" as they call it(likened it to the noise that you hear a sneaker make on a gym floor)but just barely....not noticable to them unless they really were listening for it. I have a feeling that everyones automatic 2K Max must make this noise to certain extent, it just greatly varies from car to car.....however as I've said before, this 3rd set of mounts is much, much noiser than the first set I had wheras it just barely made a noise that I assumed was a little belt slippage...still annoying but not to the point it is at now.
There must be some sort of fix for this...I mean...its a electronic motor mount(maybe ) Doesnt seem anywhere near as complex as the fuel cut issue...should be a an easy fix...thats what I cant understand.
Thanks for the A-Pillar info Joe and Big...appreciate it
When you took your lock out, did you break it done all the way to pulling the cylinder out of the metal sleeve? I did and found if you tilt it a little bit the tumblers fall out Luckliy I put them back in the right order Taped it all up and that thing is as tight as a whistle now....and...I still get rattles from the glovebox lol....I think you are right about it not being tight enough...even though it feels flush I guess it isnt...sounds like it is the pegs of the box maybe rattling against the rails it sits in....back to more surgery with the weather stripping
repaired under the TSB for the trunk scratches? I know the parts are backordered around here at least as Nissan messed up the TSB and sent the wrong old clips back out....I've heard some people say that when their cars rear end is reassembled that the fit is not as good or tight and there are some gaps between the bumper and the fenders. However I'm not sure if that is due to the techs error or they are using the wrong clips.
Not that anyone may care, but I dropped off my car on Wed to have 1) the brakes checked for the TSB on creeking/groaning, 2) warped rotors, 3)the TSB on the TCM and 4) the ticking noise from the climate control fan at low speeds. Dealer was great (Stamford Motors in CT). Replaced everything related to the TSB's for the TCM and brakes, resurfaced the rotors. The replacement part for the fan was on back order though. They will call me when they get it in, probably next week.
The one surprise though was that the morning I brought it in, the Service Engine Soon light came on again. It had come on at 17,000 and then mysteriously went away a few hundred miles later. JoeNissan had suggested that it was the O2 sensors and that it had happened to him too. I wasn't worried and actually forgot about it, until it came on Wed. again (now 20,000 miles).
The dealer said they had to order a new computer, which they did and then had to reprogram my computer over the internet with Nissan.
Joe have you heard of this. It didn't cost me anything, so I don't care how much time they took, but what would cause this? Any thoughts?
Comments
1) Check out the TMV (True Market Value) here on Edmunds in the NEW CAR section and use that to negotiate with the dealer
2)Use the Power Shopper section of NEW CARS to get a guaranteed cost from Carsdirect.com
3)Use the TMV as a guideline to put in a lower bid on priceline.com. I did this for my 2001 Maxima SE and got a very good price and was in and out of the dealership in 45 minutes with no negotiating.
4)Check post #29 in this same topic. He tells you how to go to Canada and buy there. The US$ is very strong against the Canadian$ and the writer posts costs in Canada vs US and there are savings of thousands of $, I foubd out about this too late, but it is worth a trip. Read the post for details.
Good luck-Gregg
Have you seen the posts about buying from Canada? A fully loaded GLE will sell for about $22,700. That's $3000 under invoice here.
You are in a great position. I live near Minneapolis and went to Toronto to buy a couple months ago. And a number of people from NYC have gone up there too.
See my post #29 above for a little more detail. I'll be glad to help you out with this. Between Maximas and Pathfinders I know of at least 15 people who have done this after I bought. It's actually very easy and you can save a bundle.
-Jon
jonlofquist@aol.com
I am quite disappointed with them. I had an appointment today to re-torque the lug nuts and align the wheels. I’ve read a number of posts in this forum about the lug nuts being over-torqued by the factory and I wanted to be on the safe side. Also, I wanted to have a wheel alignment done as the car pulls to the right. It has been pulling to the right ever since I bought it, and it currently has 285 miles on the clock.
I was told by the service department that the lug nuts come properly tightened from the factory and therefore they will not re-torque them for free. They will not even check them for free. So I agreed to pay for this.
They also told me they would not do the wheel alignment for free. The service guy told me there was only one driving wheel, and the car will always pull to one side. I find this hard to believe, and frankly, quite unreasonable.
Overall, I feel they were rather unprofessional and rude. They treated me as if I was there to argue with them, and they had this petty confrontational attitude right from the start.
I quite like my new car, but I find the service (at least at Legend Nissan) very bad. I wish I bought or leased a BMW (which is my old car) or a Lexus, only because the service there is so much better.
Can anyone recommend a good service department for Nissan in Long Island? I will appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks.
I was treated with utmost respect and the service manager said he even knew why I was getting the re-torquing done and he also agreed that cars can get out of alignment when being transported. Now, honestly, I can't verify that the lug nuts were re-torqued, but I believe they were. And I know the alignment was fixed. It sucks that you were treated like that!
I live in Alabama, so I can't really help you, but I definitely would never go back to Legend Nissan.
bamadj
lsf, my problem apparently arose due to the replacement of the back bumper cover by a body shop. I know they had the trunk liner out on both sides when they were doing the bumper work, and they had to replace the bumper twice due to their bad shortcut decisions the first time around. Now I have the dilemma of going back to them and possibly risking more shortcuts or doing it myself and risking inept liner handling. They are only a mile from my house but I think I will give it a try first. It should be just a couple of liner plugs to be taken out. Thanks!!
Figure that a loaded Pathfinder LE (auto, AWD, leather, LSD, mats, more) will end up costing you about $27,900 at today's exchange rate (including duty). That's about $3500 under US dealer invoice.
Pop on over to the Pathfinder forum - we seem to be discussing Canada buys just about every day. Search on "lofquist" and/or "jon" and you'll find lots of info. Email me and I can give you all the details.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=SUV&t=3255
Jon
Most dealers I've used will realign a car for free in the first 12k miles; and not once has one complained in the first 1000.
As to the 'driving wheel' excuse -- it sounds like the service writer's blaming torque steer. In that case it's true -- but only on high mileage cars with a lot of differential wear. A well designed front wheel drive car may experience some torque steer under hard acceleration (which in my experience is generally to the left, not the right). It should not be present at any other time.
Alignment, a bad tire, a high crown road (assuming you drive on the down side of the crown), or problematic differential/transaxle could all be sources of a constant pull/drift to the right.
As you already observed: find a different service shop. I believe I'd send a letter to Nissan and copy the dealership manager as well. They'll never fix their service problems if they don't know about it.
I guess I'll get the wheel alignment done at Habberstad and I'll pay for it, and then I'll complain to Nissan about the service at Legend, and ask for a refund for the alignment...
By the way, I complained to the sales person at Legend and we test drove my car as well as another 2001 GLE. He agreed with me that mine was pulling to the right while the other car was not. We tested them on the same road.
His manager then spoke to their service department, and then came back to me saying that everything was normal with my car and they couldn't do anything for me.
Very disappointing.
If they dont....go somewhere else and be sure to call Nissan Customer Service to tell them about that dealer !
Telling you that the car is "one wheel drive" and will always pull is absolute BS....LOL..And quite funny to me. The car is being pulled by BOTH front wheels while moving along...the only time you'll notice that the right front wheel is the main driving wheel is, maybe if you get stuck in snow or a quick start in the rain. DON'T YOU DARE PAY FOR AN ALIGNMENT !!!!
Joe
I paid 24,999.
I got:
Sterling Mist Maxima SE
Bose
C&C package...but don't remember what came with that package.
17" alloys
mud guards, sun roof wind deflector
cloth seats
floor mats
automatic
.....hmm....was 24999 a good deal?
Also...budhinkley..
what is documentation fee.
my dealer had some advertisement fee on the price, and I complained about it, started walking out on the dealer over it, and finally he just took it out....tried to throw me a guilt trip about it too! hehe
but i'd have to say.....23769 for a GLE sounds like a good price! It's more than 1k less than my 2000 SE!
-James
with the following:
C&C
Leather seats
Auto
Meridian
Mats
Splash guards
Wind deflector
Bose
Basically loaded....except for the 6 cd changer
Are you having any of the chirping or trunk problems on this forum?
The main problem i have is with the rattles i have. Mainly from the center console area, right around the stereo. I find that when I push the plastic face of my stereo (right below the cassette door) it dampens the rattling a bit.
Also..I have a problem with my passenger door not being flush with the rest of the car.
-James
Make sure when you put it away for the night, it's warmed up. If you just start it cold for a few seconds...like to move it into the garage, w/o warming it for a few minutes, you'll have a hard time sometimes starting it in the morning....this is normal for the VQ engine.
Joe
In this dealership in Maine, they charge an equal documentaion fee of $149 to all customers. I think it may be a law in Maine that the same doc. fee be charged to everyone. You just work the other figures around it - no big deal.
Word of caution...don't fret about what you paid for your Max if it was last week or last year. Someone will always have done a better job negotiating (or fibbing). As long as your happy when you leave the dealership, you've done well. If you're not happy, don't agree to the price!
In your previous post 238 you talked about two TSBs, the strut noise and brake noise. I'm interested in the strut problem. My 2000 Max has the front end noise (thunk) sometimes. It happens when I drive over bumps, curbs, etc. Again it only does it sometimes, strange.
I've already had the left strut replaced (dealer gave me a a hard time but finally fixed it) but I still have another front end noise. What exactly is the noise caused by and how is it fixed? Is it dangerous if it's not repaired?
Since there's a TSB for this I hope I won't have a problem getting this fixed like my previous experience.
Thanks in advance,
JJ
Now I’ll have to complain to Nissan about Legend.
After reading some of these posts, I checked my wheels myself. It was weird, as the driver's front and passenger's rear wheels were both WAY over-torqued compared to the other two wheels.
Also, the car went back to the dealer after one week because it was pulling slightly to the right. No squabble at all from my dealer here in Columbus, OH - Buckeye Nissan. The sales and service experiences have been great. The alignment was out of spec., and the car now tracks nice and straight as it should.
Sgr....Good, I'm glad it's ok now !!
Brian...If you have an SE w/17" wheels, it's going to be quite louder than the ones w/o those wheels. The Maxima GLE has an interior sound level of 65db at 60 MPH which is quieter than the Diamante. Make sure all the weather stripping is in place around the door that you seem to hear the wind from. With the stiffer suspension alone, it'll be a bit noisier than the GLE.
Joe
Just my 2 cents.
Also, as for squeaks and rattles. My rattles seem to be pretty well gone, after 7 trips to the dealer, but now it's the trim. The door panels creak when pushed on, and that piece that runs up the inside, between the front and rear driver side doors, right next to my ears, behind the seatbelt, MAN IS THAT THING CREAKY. Anybody else? You can just push on it and SQUEAK, CREAK, CREAK!!! If this darn Maxima didn't have so many noises it sure would be one hell of a car.
Seeya
This sounds like wind noise only, although I might be wrong. Thanks for suggesting that I check all of the seals, Joe - have not done that.
Do you know if the GLE has more sound deadening material in it similar to the I30, or do all models of SE's have the same level of soundproofing?
$25,876 + $120(Doc fee)+tax(NYC 8.25%). Andrew, i brought mine from Koeppel Nissan in Queens.
willy
Joe
I have a 01 GLE that's 1350 miles, and sometimes when the engine has been idle for over 8 hours, it's hard to start. I would have to start the car more then once. Is this problem normal? I can hear the engine crank, but it cranks for about 5 seconds, then it stops. When I try it again for the second time, it sometimes start and it sometimes doesn't. It happens twice each week. Does anyone know the problem? When I went to the dealer for an oil change, they told me that they didn't see a problem like that. I also told them that there are noises from the glovebox and the dashboard, and they told me that they can still hear it after taking the glovebox out, and they said that they wanted to take out part of the dash to see if anything is wrong?!?!?!? Should I let them do that? Sometimes you hear the rattle, and sometimes you don't.
SOS..SOS...SOS!!!
thanks,
Jerry
Like I said...it's been a normal trait ever since it's induction in the 95 Maxima, and won't hurt anything. AND...although it may be hard to start in such situations...it will ALWAYS start.
Just be sure to let it run for a few minutes if you have to move it cold, that'll cure your problem.
And......Don't let them disassemble your dash...you'll have even MORE rattles than you have currently.
Joe
Joe
heard that you have to be really careful with a-pillars as the clips break real easy...
Thanks jeff
Joe
In regard to removing the A-pillar cover, Joenissan is correct, in that it just snaps off. I have to warn you however, that you have to exert a considerable amount of force to remove it.
Basically, just work your fingers behind it and start pulling straight outward. It will eventually pop loose, but you will think that its going to break for sure!
-umpopa
There must be some sort of fix for this...I mean...its a electronic motor mount(maybe
Thanks for the A-Pillar info Joe and Big...appreciate it
Anyone have this done successfully?
The one surprise though was that the morning I brought it in, the Service Engine Soon light came on again. It had come on at 17,000 and then mysteriously went away a few hundred miles later. JoeNissan had suggested that it was the O2 sensors and that it had happened to him too. I wasn't worried and actually forgot about it, until it came on Wed. again (now 20,000 miles).
The dealer said they had to order a new computer, which they did and then had to reprogram my computer over the internet with Nissan.
Joe have you heard of this. It didn't cost me anything, so I don't care how much time they took, but what would cause this? Any thoughts?