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Mazda Protegé



  • The Civic has had what is probably just first year "bugs". A few squeaks, rattles, some have said the suspension is too stiff, and Honda had to reprogram the engine computer.

    I would stay away from the first year, but I would do that with any car. I think you should be OK if you are looking at a 2002 Civic.
  • ...I think I'll have to think about that one... :)
  • This may be a little off-topic, but it's still about Mazdas.

    This website has a wealth of information on the design/engineering of the Mazda 6. I was reading the safety/craftsmanship section of it and I was very impressed. If Mazda can keep these levels of quality thoughout the Mazda line, including the upcoming Protege, then I would not mind the use of Ford parts. The Duratec is a proven engine that will be used in the upcoming 6 (by the way, change the name to Atenza, it sounds much better!!!).

  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    You really think THAT'S a better name? I agree that '6' is dopey as heck, but 'Atenza' sounds like a Nissan wanna-be. :)

    Mazda really needs to get their marketing together (I believed this was discussed in a chat a few weeks ago). Seems like these days they're picking random names and numbers out of the air and sticking them on models willy-nilly. At least in the old days (323, 626, 929), there was some logic involved.

    Now they just seem indecisive and goofy.

    (The above rant was not meant as a personal slam, parallax person, just happens to be something that has been bugging me :)
  • norcannorcan Posts: 72
    OK, that explains your gas price calculation. We came up with the same thing, based on $0.56 CDN/litre. Lessee, if an American goes on vacation to Nova Scotia they'd pay $1.35 USD/US Gal *your calculation* or $2.15 CDN/US Gal *my calculation*.

    From recent posts, if a Canadian could afford to go on vacation to Florida ;( they'd pay the same.
    The catch:
    Americans earn $USD and Canadians earn $CDN -amazing information, no? Our friends in the States should think about a taking their Pro's on a tour in: British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, Yukon, Northwest Territories or Nunavut. Canucks will be exploring these provinces and territories too - because they can't afford to drive anywhere else!
  • All - I have an '01 ES 2.0 with 4K on it. Anyone else notice a hissing sound when they put their foot on the gas, especially at highway speeds. I had the car rustproofed a couple of days ago, and am wondering if they knocked something loose on the exhaust.

    On a similiar note, didn't someone mention a 'rattle' or vibration when the car is cold. I get that too and wondered if there's a fix.

    Otherwise very satisfied with the car.


  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Usually, it's the heat shield covering the catalytic converter. This rattles if a weld has been broken, although it'd continue to rattle after the engine warmed up.

    No idea on the hissing sound. Where's it coming from? If there was a leak in the exhaust, it'd sound like the regular exhaust, just louder. Perhaps one of your vacuum lines is leaking?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Ok, so I went down to Midas and spoke to a service rep there. He told me that with ANY car, not just new ones, for $129.95 + applicable taxes, you get 4 oil changes/year AND free tire rotations every 8000 km for as long as you own the vehicle.
    I said to him, "how can you afford to do that??", to which he responded, "well its a gamble, but most people don't keep their cars very long."
    Good enough for me.
    Now in regards to oil changes at places like Midas, jiffy-lube, minute-lube, etc., a friend and I were talking and he said that those places may not be very good because they do not let all the oil drain from the car before putting in the new oil. This to me would imply some mixing of oil, although much would be pushed down and out due to positive pressure from the new oil.
    Is this bad for the engine at all? Does it make a difference?

  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    When the car is cold and it's off for a while (like overnight), it does make a rough sound. This goes away after about 3 mins when the temp gauge is at the halfway point. I don't know if there's a fix for it. I'll check with my dealer next week.

    Haven't experienced any rattling at all with the PRO. It feels very well put together.

    Not a bad deal on the Midas offer. I'll go see them next time I'm due for an oil change. My only reservation for not going is b/c, as you have mentionned they don't take thier time to properly drain all the oil. This is why I go to a private garage. I bring them the filter from Mazda and 4L of Castrol GTX. They charge $12-15 plus taxes for their time. In the long run you would save a lot with Midas, but I want the job well done, so I'm not sure if it's worth it. I'll have to go once and see what they do.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    I am due for the 16000km svc at Mazda. It will cost $50 CDN for really only an oil change, They say they lubricate the chassis, check fluids, lights, etc, but as anyone, I can do that myself. The only probelm is that they stamp the warranty card when you go in.

    So my question is: Do I pay $50 for an oil change and stamp, or $27 for an oil change only? The car is financed. Do I have any obligations as far as the warranty goes to have all that work done, even though the last time I went for the 8000km svc, they only changed the oil, nothing more, even though they state they did all that other svc, which they actually haven't?

    At the same time, can anyone recommend any Mazda dealer in T.O.?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    What warranty card? I've never seen or heard of such an animal!
    BTW, my dealership wanted $40 for the oil change/lubrication service.
    I also wonder about the 8000 km service. I'm sitting at just about 10k km and never went in. Hopefully nothing happens.
    Sorry....can't recommend and dealers in TO, but if you come out West to Calgary, I'd be happy to show you around. :)

  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    are on the Lexus IS 300 SportCross? Bridgestone Potenza 17's! On a US$32,250 car! Sheeesh!

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    "I said to him, "how can you afford to do that??", to which he responded, "well its a gamble, but most people don't keep their cars very long."
    Good enough for me."

    What a joke! they do it the same way Jiffy Lube or others do it. Get your car on the rack for something that they nearly lose money on but up-sell the world to you. I'm still waiting for Newcar to tell us all his up-sell stories now that he is no longer part of the clan.

  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Yeah, they'll probably be like, "well, this gizmo is blown to hell, and this doo hickey needs to be replaced, blah blah blah," but my Uncle works at this Midas and I would find it very hard to believe that he would try to screw me over. That's the only reason that I'm going to this particular Midas.

  • duh_sterduh_ster Posts: 102
    which midas does your uncle work at? is he the "big cheese" there??
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    LOL! No, he's not the big cheese there, he's a mechanic, but I called and confirmed that he will be able to work on my Pro. He works at the Midas on 16th ave. It'll probably be a bit of a drive from you (you mentioned living in the South right?). If you really want the deal and my Uncle to work on your car, let me know and I can get you his name.

  • duh_sterduh_ster Posts: 102
    well, the deal DOES sound sweet, but i'm kinda hesitant...i've heard lube shops don't do a good job (but then, i suppose neither does the dealer!) sure, just email me his name and the address of his shop:
  • I continue to waste hours researching possible replacement tires for my '99 pro es [though I have decided get through one more winter on the re92's.] So here's my recommendations based on these issues:

    treadware [price is, afterall, $/mile]
    diameter [my 5spd is geared too low in 5th, so I don't want a shorter tire]
    ride [don't want a profile lower than 55]

    Ultimate handling: Bridgestone s-o3 pole position [205/55]
    good handling all-season: Dunlop sp sport 5000 [205/55]
    good handling, especially in wet, but somewhat noisy with wear: Bridgestone re730 [205/55]
    cheap, decent handling, somewhat noisy with wear: Kumho ecsta supra 712 [195/55, 205/55]
    don't need a performance tire: Yokohama avid t4 [195/55]
    a little more performance: Yokohama avid v4 [205/55]
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    as long as you keep records of your work, regardless of where you go, that's proof of maintaining it. Mazda would have a hard time showing you didn't do the work.

    I had a Leased car, which HAS to be maintained, but I slacked off and they didn't car. never had a brake job in 42 months although they squeeled like crazy. did regular oil changes and rotations and blanace, plus air filter.. that's it.

    you could get the shop to sign your card.. nuff said.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    I still have no idea what you guys are talking about in terms of a Warranty card! What is it??
  • sfratsfrat Posts: 205
    Its in the back of the warranty information booklet, the last few pages sort of looks like a passport with boxes for the different service intervals. The dealer or service place is supposed to check off that the service has been completed for warranty records purposes, and then you could use it to prove that you had all service done if you went to sell the car.
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    I fill it in myself.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Ok, if you can fill the card in yourself, what point is there to even having the card? I could never do any maintainence and then fill in the card and say "look, I did it myself." I think that the only reliable way to do it would be to keep all receipts from oil changes, etc.

  • sfratsfrat Posts: 205
    They are the only way, because the dealers are not that great about filling in the book either, but at least you have the reciepts showing what you've had done. Of course, if you take it into the dealer, its also in their computers as well, so there is record there. During the warranty period, I'm having all my work done at the dealer, its worth it to me to pay a bit extra, because then if something goes wrong, I can say "Well, the car has been dealer maintained since new", and gives them very little maneuvering to blame me or someone else. My salesperon did tell me I could take the car elsewhere but to save the receipts, but I want to keep it clean and simple.

  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    I think you guys are paranoid. Your car would have to show blatant abuse and misuse for a dealership to go to the trouble of denying you warranty service.

    Missing an oil change would not be grounds for voiding your warranty. They would have to prove that leaving the oil in an extra 3-5k somehow caused irrepairable harm.

    Just my opinion of course.
  • Go check out the engine sludge topic before you make that blanket statement. Glad I don't have a Toyota any more.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    Come on in and chat about your tires and oil changes, whatever! All readers and posters welcome. Tell us which waxes are best for winter.

  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Jiffy Lubes have a quota. For instance, oil changes at MN Jiffy Lubes are $30.83 for cars, $31.83 for 4x4s. Management wants an AVERAGE of $48.00 per car. That means on average, each car has about $17-$18 of extra things on top of an oil change. It was very easy for me to do. You don't have to sell something on every car. Just get a couple big tickets on some cars. I understand that some of these lube guys are crooked. I personally didn't rip people off. There are more than enough cars out there that need something. Honestly, most people don't take care of their cars. I would regularly see cars that need a number of things done and the customer would never buy anything. I would look at their history and realize that they were never going to get their transmission fluid changed despite the fact that it looked like tar because they were 30,000 miles over the manufacturer's recommended interval. That goes for radiator flushes, differential fluid changes, air filters etc too. Many people don't give a rip, especially if the car is leased. These are some of the reasons why I would never buy a used car again, especially a lease return. After being in the business, I don't trust anybody (including the dealership) to work on my car. Oil changes are simple, but you can screw them up: ie) Loose drain plugs, worn out drain plugs re-installed, not replacing crush gaskets, double gasketing the oil filter, overfill, underfill, double fill (forget to drop the old oil and fill with new oil) forgetting the oil filter, stripped plug heads, stripped plug threads, stripped filter mounts, forgetting the oil cap, forgetting to add oil, forgetting to put the drainplug in, staining floormats and seats, and on and on. There are meatheads wherever you go.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    They have never owned cars,just guns and tanks to talk about. What a miserable life they have. Their idea of "out on the town" is sniping from rooftops. And cruising on Saturday night is in the back of a Toyota pickup with a grenade launcher. Zoom zoom to them is the sound of rockets.

    Have you seen the "bald eagle" tires on those trucks? And no Midas lube stations. Free tire rotation is with a Kalishnikof pointed at your head.LOL!

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