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Comments
I understand wanting to know what the true cost of a truck is...but don't matter to me....I know what the truck costs...and the accessories....haven't put any parts into it...(except that cab filter I still haven't touched for a month or so..haha)......there was an alignment and misc tire balances for the hey of it....but gas cost total?.....nahhhh....what does that prove?
I already know I spend $598.77 for truck and about $100 something a month for truck insurance....why make it sound really sick to say $200-$275 in gas per month?.....$1000 a month to commute mostly...whooohooooo!.....I could track my life cost of beer and pizza too maybe!?.....LOL
.....now what were we talking about?
- Tim
- Tim
Ha!
I heard my first rattle today at mile 306. I'm so excited!
Any experience anybody has with upgrading muffler, pipes, or headers would be appreciated, including manufacturers, overall quality of system, cost, installation difficulty, noise levels, etc. I've started some preliminary looking at a number of vendors, including Flowmaster, Gibson, JBA, Dynomax and Banks. One thing I do NOT want is a lot of noise from the system, either a loud exhaust sound or resonance in the cab.
Now that it warmed up to 60+ this afternoon, it's silent. Love this part of ownership....
Fixed it with some foam.
never been back
Ryan
The system has a resonator just aft of the cat, the muffler, hangers, tail pipes, s/s extensions. I used the side exits to keep the factory appearance. There is absolutely no resonance at any load, just a steady purr (probably too quiet for some people). Blackmax200 stated (and I agree) this is the system that GM should have installed from the factory. He has (had) some .wav files that he e-mailed me with sounds picked up at various locations (in the cabin at idle, in the cabin at 2000 rpm, at the exit at idle, at the exit at 2000 rpm, etc). I priced the system locally installed, but due to price, I ordered mine from summitracing.com and installed myself (approx 1 hour using the included clamps). Good luck
"I had originally installed the Gibson Sweptside dual in single 3" out. I lost a lot on the lowend. If you're planning on a dual system, make sure the pipes are no larger than 2.25". Even at that, you will lose on the lowend.
What I did was scrap the Gibson and went with a PV system. Dyno'd at 20 HP gain over stock with a dual in single out configuration. The test truck was a '99 rado with Flowmasters installed. After installing the PV, it dyno'd a 30 HP increase. I guess that means that installing the flowmasters caused a loss of 10 HP."
Are you still happy with the PV system??
-- Don
And they make them for the 6.0 xcab long or short bed.
should I add a rear spring leaf or have the springs rearched or go with air bags???
the ride is getting more losey every day. dealer say it's in specs....
truck now drifts all over the road , 6 alignments, no luck. No tire wear, just will drift right then left,
then when a large rig passes you can hardly stay on the road.
Real scary to drive. started at 3000 mi. now has 14,000.
If it cant't be fixed, looking to dump it like the 99 that was so screwd up.
Cut the factory connection 2" aft of muffler to remove in two pieces (could be reinstalled with a single weld). Put the resonator in the aft end of the cat, insert muffler in resonator and clamp. Install right tail pipe in muffler using factory hanger, insert left tail pipe in muffler using new hanger, insert stainless tips, clamp everthing. Done.
I noticed a slight increase in power (real or perceived, I don't really know or even care) This truck has much more power than I will ever need. If I were looking for performance, I would get the HumVee with the 600 hp engine. Love the sound of the Flowmaster, but wish it was a little louder.
I don't remember what I paid but Summitracing had the best price at the time I was looking. Most local people were 15 to 20 percent more without taxes. Local taxes approx equaled shipping, so I ordered from Summit
A buddy mentioned going to a "paintless dent repair" place. Anybody done so? Cost? He says it's pretty inexpensive and quick.
My father has his trouble free 2000 Silverado 1500 LS, 2wd, reg cab, long box, tow pkg, 5.3L, auto, 34 gal gas tank, lock diff, white, etc, and canopy for sale. Only 10,500 miles on it. He purchased it on 12/18/99, so still under 3yr/36000 mile warranty. He decided he needed a 4wd
so he bought a new 2001 Silverado 4x4. I've driven it and it is nice, smooth and straight, no rattles, no vibs and will be a great truck for someone.
Kelly Blue Book high is $23,000 and low is $18,500.
He is asking $19,995.
-David
Also, the concensous of the board seems to be Mobile 1 5/30 for the oil change but since I live in CA, wouldn't I be better off with 10/30 for the summer months and then use 5/30 for winter months?
Thanks - here to learn!
Mark
Mark
Mark
...now if it was the H/O......well......
...as for PDR..(paintless dent removal)...it works VERY good.....a person who knows what they are doing can fix the average ding in just minutes...average dent about 50-75 bucks....something like you have may be more?....it's all done from behind with special tools.
PDR specialist chase storms all over the world....they watch for a big one....travel to it...set up "shops"...and make tens of thousands of dollars in a few months...
only [non-permissible content removed] is ya gotta leave everyone ya know for a while...and on no notice.....
oh well
Give it a try......should work very good....beats painting!
....A place I know does several concept cars...stuff happens and dings are "made".....they got this guy that comes....and when he leaves...you can stick your nose so close to it...and not even tell.
Good Luck
- Tim
Was at a wedding down in indy. Came out has a dent and scratch on the rear by the fender flare. Came out to be $850 in damage and the bodyshop had my truck for 3 days.
After they fixed it couldnt even tell it got messed up
I also got the new intermediate steering shaft so no more clunks in the steering wheel. I hope I'm done fixing GM's goofs now. The truck is great otherwise! 2000 2500 4wd
Thanks
- Tim
NO its cant be your 2500 is so much stronger than our wimpy 1500's
Oh, and as Tim pointed out, a lot of the companies are "fly by night" leaving town as soon as a new storm hits elsewhere. My dealer offers PDR through a local company that doesn't chase hail and tornado victims. I would try them before looking for a guy with a circus tent and motorhome in the Wal-Mart parking lot...
It's still sickening, even though I know it'll go away.
Ryan
The thinner cold oil helps it flow better on startup and when in the CA mountains.
Mike L
In Sunny California
Local dealer has a guy that comes in 2 times a month to fix dents....
as for being in Jail for a scratch.....try having a car in storage...$6,000 paint job...and some creep breaks in....trys to pry the trunk open from the sides...buckles the hell out of the quarters while he trashes the deck lid...opens both doors into the walls......breaks the windows and dents the doors on the top...and takes a crow bar to the entire dash to get the radio.....ohh..and walks on the hood and cracks the hood blister...
Now THAT would put me in jail if I found the creep....(which I never did)..
I had plans to live in that storage ..until he came back......then reality hit me and soon after it was all fixed....to the tune of $9,700
oh well.....they are just cars...
- Tim
I have said before it makes noise.....
- Tim
Mark
I'd recommend the gasket over silocone sealant.
They are in the order of preference.
1. Look for a spot far away from any other vehicles.
2. Look for another new Silverado to park next to.
3. Look for the most expensive vehicle to part next to.
4. If none of the above tactics work, I just don't park. I head straight for home and put my new truck back in its nice, safe, warm garage. There will always be another day to try it.
(Actually, I'm just joking about #4........or am I.......hmmmmm?).
-David
At school, work ,or wherever i only park in a spot where 1 car can only park next to me preferrably on the passenger side.
At least my gf doesnt complain when i park a mile away. She doesnt mind at all (or at least talk outloud about it)
I'm gonna figure out how to charge my truck body to 4,000 volts, disarmable with the remote....the next person to touch it without permission...POW...
The jail time for reckless endangerment is nothing compared to protecting my rig. ;-)
How do they work, what brand did yawl buy?
same thing I'd guess......I can grab the steering shaft under the hood and rattle it around a little..
...oh and Rayn....I never said it was 100% error free...but..yeah...It IS better now that you mention it!
...No dash rattles....tailgate problems...trans slippage when take off...or 1000 RPM jumps on the highway when doing a constant speed....How's yours been for those?.....DOHHH!
BWHAHAAAHHAAHAHAHAAAA
eheehehehheee
- Tim
Clunking Noise Under the Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Replace the Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C2/K1/K2 Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL)
With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
A new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly has been developed to correct these conditions. Replace the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly on affected vehicles with the new upper intermediate steering shaft assembly P/N 26085548. Use the following service procedure and part number listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
26085548 Shaft Asm., Upr Inter Strg 1
Parts are expected to be available 6-16-00 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace Use published time
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