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Steve
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I lost my entertainment system - dvd player and two video screens. My insurance paid for everything. I am just disappointed in Toyota for not installing a real alarm system. You would think as much as we pay for this truck it would include an advanced alarm system. I was told by Toyota that the window breaking sensor and the door sensor was an upgrade to the alarm system and would cost another 489 dollars. I will let you all know what happens, i am talking to my dealer to get them to install it for free. I told them i was mislead by my salesman who told me the truck was equipped with a great alarm. So this is a message to all of you, have your alarms checked. Take your truck back to the dealer and ask them if it has a shock sensor and a door sensor, which means if a door is opened will it make the horn honk and the lights flash. If it does not you only have an engine disabler alarm. And it will not make the horn honk and the lights flash if a window is broken and a door is opened.
I'm surprised about the alarm issue. I've previously had a 92 and 95 LC, both which had alarms on the doors. I currently have a 2000LC, and after your post went to check the original sticker and the owner's manual. I didn't pay for any alarm upgrade, but in the owner's manual it says that in addition to the engine immobilizer, there are alarms on the doors and battery. It even gives instructions on how to test to make sure if it is working. I wonder if it was just certain years that didn't have a "full" alarm system as standard equipment.
With power doors the kids can get in more safely without having you run around the car a bunch of times. With all the extra space a fully assembled two seat jog stroller / bike trailer combo unit can be loaded without having to fold it up. The minivan is rated for 19 MPG city and 26 MPG hwy.
Only huge gas guzzlers like the YukonXL or Suburban or Expedition and vans like the Astro/Safari can compete on volume of the interior. The huge SUVs are too tall for small kids to get themselves in and they don't come with power doors.
Get a minivan or you'll be missing out.
If the LandCruiser got over 20 mpg I might buy one for myself.
It is very scary... all that space with very little structural support it collapses like a card box. If you don't believe me go to a body shop and take a look for your self. For the extra 4 miles per gallon you save on a minivan (6 gallons of fuel per tank) I will rather be in a Land Cruiser.
Anyone I know that drives a minivan can't wait until they don't need one any more. I surely don't feel like that about my LC.
Any break-in, initial care or accessory tips for a newbie?
I plan to drive from South East Texas to Southern California just a few days after I take possession. Any problems with the long hours on a new vehicle? I have been told to vary the rpms frequently for the first 1,000 miles so that the rings seat properly.
Ron Gregg
Most late model minivans will do better for the occupants in a crash than a TLC with it's stiff, ladder frame. The TLC must rely on the other object in the crash to crumple to absorb the crash energy. OK if you hit a Neon. Not OK if you hit a brick wall
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You are correct, the Trooper's crumple zone is in the other car, just like the LandCruiser's. I expect to be able to steer clear of a brick wall, but I cannot prevent other drivers from testing their crumple zones on my Trooper. I agree the minivan is a crumple zone waiting to happen. It did happen to someone I know (no one was hurt, new minivan got whole new passenger side sheet metal plus front and rear bumpers, other small car was totaled) and they now drive an older model Suburban.
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My wife does not want an SUV. She would rather drive a Miata or Z3 stick shift. She drives the minivan, while we have kids around, but the minivan is so nice on long trips that we will probably always have one or rent one.
sorry to hear about your minivan search. i came to the land of the TLC from minivan land. they are practical but so is a moped :-).
i know this could erupt into a firestorm but after months of deliberation i drove a land rover discovery the other day (we are looking for a second vehicle). I still don't know what we are getting, but i'm sure of what we're not getting!!!
I went from a 2000 ML430 to a 2001 Landcrusier last February and I do not regret it one bit. I have owned both a 1999 and 2000 M-Class and was not pleased with the fit. Albeit the 2000 was a vast improvement, but for about 10K more for the LC, the quality difference is simply amazing.
I think if you go with the LC, you will notice a huge differnce in the ride. I was always irritated with the M-Class's shaky behavior on city streets. I have 12000 miles on my LC, and the ride is a good as new.
However, you have children, so I would agree with the post earlier about how high up the LC is. Your kids might feel like they are climbing a mountain; I know my mother did!
My LC is by far the best vehicle I have ever owned. (Should be for the price.) I have no intention on trading anytime soon.
I have driven minivan only once in my life when I rented it for a week to bus a bunch of people around. I liked it but after driving an SUV I dont think I would buy one instead of a quality SUV. As far as the mileage goes my 4Runner gets 20-21 mpg and Landcruiser get around 15-16. The brand new rental van gave a mileage of around 18-20!!! There is absolutely no comparision between LC and any van no matter how good it is.
As far as kids go as someone said earlier they are quick learners as to how to get in or out of the vehicle. In fact my kids love to ride in SUVs and hate my car.
If the choice is between DEMO LC for $49K and Mercedes for $40K then maybe you should consider a used LC which is one to 2 years old. At least it would have been used by one owner as against who knows how many people driving a demo unit. This should bring it down to less than 40K.
As you may have figured that TLC has a cult like following and until you own and drive one it is very hard to explain how owning and having it feels. Like .....I will never understand why my friend paid 30K to buy a Honda Odyssey!!!
Once in gear it makes a "diesel" like noise for about 1/4 mile. After that, the noise abates. Has anyone shared this same experience.
I'm running the vehicle on 5-30 Mobil 1 which should prevent piston slap.
My Tundra does this quite often and takes 2 to 5 minutes to abate. It is more an annoyance than a problem.
I have had 6 TLC's, but currently own 3 TLC's. You are right, when you get dialed into the TLC community there is almost a cult like following. My kids from tot hood, grew up around TLC's and in some measure learned hand eye motor coordination in getting in and out of the various TLC's mentioned above. When they were relatively rare, we used to make a game out of counting landcruisers on long trips.
TLC's are capable of going a long way and a long time. While I have had a 1974 TLC,(probably one big mistake I made was selling it) the most recent cluster started with the 1987 bought in late 1986. I sold it in 2001 (250k miles, with 43% depreciation over 15 yrs) The other 91 TLC is in the hands of a family member and her family.
Good luck!
HiC
Was what I heard a normal noise or is it a cracked heat shield?
HiC
I have also owned 4 suburbans the past 17 years and the TLC is much more solid feeling. I am not too concerned about mileage as that is a small part of the total cost of ownership. I have put 6k miles on it thus far with no problems.
When the vehicle is started after a few seconds a high pitched squeal almost like the key alert sounds. It is constant. Please share if you have had any similar problems. Thanks
I own a 2000 TLC and have never heard a "key alert sound." Are you talking about the chirping sound some cars make when the alarm is set?
I have a 2001 LC, and when I hit moderate bumps while driving between 10 and 35 MPH, I hear a clattering sound, either in or near the tire. It sounds kind of like keys being tossed around in a Coke can. Again, it's only when I hit bumps and at no other time.
I recall hearing this exact sound on other cars when walking down a busy city street, but it's usually on older cars.
Any thoughts?
If you hear it on the inside, imagine how loud it is outside. I was curious and had someone else drive out of the garage, and was amazed at how well insulated the LC is. The engine is very loud at times, esp when pulling away from a stop sign, etc.
This explains the horrified look on all of the children's faces when I approach them trying to cross the street, etc. I always wondered why they backed up so far.
I'm so sorry to have second guessed my Land Cruiser. I apologized to it, and gave it a bath.
this morning when i drove my LC i noticed the engine was overheating and that i wasnt getting heat from my vent. i stopped and saw that coolant was leaking from the water pump (i think)and coolant sprayed all over the front of the engine.
i found out that i was down 1 qt of oil and my radiator overflow tank was empty.
i put in a qt of oil and filled the overflow tank with water and the engine temp went back to normal and i got heat from my vent.
i was told that water pumps have a bleeder hole that starts leaking when the pump goes bad.
could anyone verify this for me? or does coolant normally leak like this when the engine overheats.
i did notice once about 1 year ago that coolant leaked overnight from the same place when i parked my truck in the cold. since then its been fine until today.
as always, thanks in advance for any info.
If memory serves me correctly, the water pump on my oldest TLC gave out about 170k? Or about the 10 yr mark? I used an every two yr cycle of flush and coolant change (dealer). I see the water pump as a quasi "planned unscheduled" maintenance item. As soon as it shows seepage it is best to change the water pump out. You don't need it to break down when you least of all need/want or expect it.
The next to go was the radiator at the 13-14 yr (230-240k) mark.
i made an appt to get it replaced this saturday. it'll run about 350$ with the TLCA discount at the toyota dealer. 100 for the pump and 4 hours labor at 60$/hr.
does this sound about right?
thanks again!
Actually extrapolating from the 1987 TLC, yeah it sounds about correct off the top of my head the fj60 cost 250. The fj80's have two belts as opposed to one belt for the fj60's. So figure about 1/2 to 1 hr more for labor. The water pump cost seems to be right.
If your belts are approaching 90-100k of wear you might bite the bullet (also 79 bucks dealer price) and change those puppies also. Also, ask them if they would comp you labor and just charge you for the belts (32 bucks) since they have included labor alread to R/R the belts anyway.
How durable are they as far as staying glued to the dash? What is a fair price to pay for a Burl wood kits of 13 or 26 pieces?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.