I have acouple aftermarket items I purchased for our 2000 L/C that i am looking to sell.Does anyone know of any L/C sites that would be appropriate to try and sell them on?
I recently had my 99 cruiser broken into. I was under the impression it had an alarm system. Every time I exit or enter I have to disarm the (what I thought was an alarm system) alarm. Well I must warn you all. The key fob is only a kill switch disarm and arm system. Unless you pay for an upgrade to the system, all you have is an engine disabling device. Which means when you press the button on your key it flashes the lights locks the doors and disables the engine. Which means a thief can't start your cruiser. But he can take out any thing else by breaking a window and opening the door and getting any thing he or she wants without fear of an alert system such as the horn honking and the lights flashing. I lost my entertainment system - dvd player and two video screens. My insurance paid for everything. I am just disappointed in Toyota for not installing a real alarm system. You would think as much as we pay for this truck it would include an advanced alarm system. I was told by Toyota that the window breaking sensor and the door sensor was an upgrade to the alarm system and would cost another 489 dollars. I will let you all know what happens, i am talking to my dealer to get them to install it for free. I told them i was mislead by my salesman who told me the truck was equipped with a great alarm. So this is a message to all of you, have your alarms checked. Take your truck back to the dealer and ask them if it has a shock sensor and a door sensor, which means if a door is opened will it make the horn honk and the lights flash. If it does not you only have an engine disabler alarm. And it will not make the horn honk and the lights flash if a window is broken and a door is opened.
I currently have a 98 mercedes ML and am looking to get more room out my SUV. We had a baby last June which makes three kids total (ages 7, 4 and 6 mos.)I have looked into the '02 ML which has a third seat option, but am concerned about the room (or lack of)it leaves when the 3rd row is in. I drove a '02 LC and fell in love with it. I found a demo at the dealer with 8,500 miles on it and loaded with the navigation system, etc. They are offering 10,000 off MSRP, but 49,000 still seems like a lot to pay for driving around suburbia. Could get the '02 ML for 39,000 but am not convinced I will be getting the needed room. Would love to hear comments.
No offense intended, but IMO you need to be aware of what your vehicle can and cannot do. It's not the salesman's job to tell you every detail about the vehicle. You have to do your research.
well joeeblow, no offense intended, but the sales person's job is to tell you everything about the product they are selling. That's the problem, they don't. I did my research for over a year, thats why i picked the best suv out there. I have no regrets, i just had to get the alarm upgraded. Which i would have done if the salesman would have let me know it was lacking protection in any way. I just wanted to inform other cruiser owners, so they would be aware of what type of alarm system the truck comes with.
I'm surprised about the alarm issue. I've previously had a 92 and 95 LC, both which had alarms on the doors. I currently have a 2000LC, and after your post went to check the original sticker and the owner's manual. I didn't pay for any alarm upgrade, but in the owner's manual it says that in addition to the engine immobilizer, there are alarms on the doors and battery. It even gives instructions on how to test to make sure if it is working. I wonder if it was just certain years that didn't have a "full" alarm system as standard equipment.
I don't as easy as "just replacing and transponder." I had one break under warranty and when it gets replaced, both keys, and the truck need to be reprogrammed. Maybe they were just screwing Toyota for warranty work.
A minivan is just right for 3 kids. Check out the award winning Silhouette interior with 4 leather captains chairs and a split 50/50 leather three seat bench or maybe the one with 6 captains chairs. It will have the DVD player with game capability and wireless headphones. It will have all wheel drive like an "on the road" SUV. It will have fully independent suspension with disc brakes at all four corners. And this year Oldsmobiles come with a 60mo/50000mi warrantee and they can get warrantee service at any GM dealer. Maxed out Silhouette is about 37K but with rebates and financing deals it is thousands less than that.
With power doors the kids can get in more safely without having you run around the car a bunch of times. With all the extra space a fully assembled two seat jog stroller / bike trailer combo unit can be loaded without having to fold it up. The minivan is rated for 19 MPG city and 26 MPG hwy.
Only huge gas guzzlers like the YukonXL or Suburban or Expedition and vans like the Astro/Safari can compete on volume of the interior. The huge SUVs are too tall for small kids to get themselves in and they don't come with power doors.
I do like the LandCruiser a lot, a friend has one. He loves it but only has one half grown child. He says he tried to get stuck and could not. He drives his LandCruiser 80+ mph and gets about the same MPG as he does at 65 mph in his 40+ foot motorhome.
If the LandCruiser got over 20 mpg I might buy one for myself.
It is very scary... all that space with very little structural support it collapses like a card box. If you don't believe me go to a body shop and take a look for your self. For the extra 4 miles per gallon you save on a minivan (6 gallons of fuel per tank) I will rather be in a Land Cruiser.
A minivan may be a little more convenient, but then you have to admit to driving a minivan. Sorry, I'll take a SUV any day. I have 3 kids also. The youngest was 2 when we bought our first LC - a 92 without running boards. It didn't take long for the kids to figure out how to get in and out.
Anyone I know that drives a minivan can't wait until they don't need one any more. I surely don't feel like that about my LC.
Just ordered a 2002 LC, which I pick up next week. This is my first SUV, so I am looking forward to some beginner off-roading.
Any break-in, initial care or accessory tips for a newbie?
I plan to drive from South East Texas to Southern California just a few days after I take possession. Any problems with the long hours on a new vehicle? I have been told to vary the rpms frequently for the first 1,000 miles so that the rings seat properly.
Well, I've got a 7 month old son, and I'm mighty tired of getting him in and out of the back seat with our '93 fzj80. I'd love a minivan with the sliding doors, decent power, good mileage, etc. They are the modern day pickup truck, the utilitarian rig of the '90s/'00s.
Most late model minivans will do better for the occupants in a crash than a TLC with it's stiff, ladder frame. The TLC must rely on the other object in the crash to crumple to absorb the crash energy. OK if you hit a Neon. Not OK if you hit a brick wall .
I like my Trooper. The kids prefer it over the minivan, probably because I drive it more agressive. The Trooper is fitted with a third row seat from LittlePassengerSeats.com that has three seat belts and is tested and rated for up to 5'8" passengers. The kids like to ride facing rear. .. You are correct, the Trooper's crumple zone is in the other car, just like the LandCruiser's. I expect to be able to steer clear of a brick wall, but I cannot prevent other drivers from testing their crumple zones on my Trooper. I agree the minivan is a crumple zone waiting to happen. It did happen to someone I know (no one was hurt, new minivan got whole new passenger side sheet metal plus front and rear bumpers, other small car was totaled) and they now drive an older model Suburban. .. My wife does not want an SUV. She would rather drive a Miata or Z3 stick shift. She drives the minivan, while we have kids around, but the minivan is so nice on long trips that we will probably always have one or rent one.
I have a Trooper myself. A '86, 3 door, turbodiesel model. I bought it last year for the diesel mileage (28MPG), and I thought it wouldn't be too bad for our son. I was wrong. It will be the first to go when we get a minivan . It's an excellent around town commuter and does OK offroad, but it won't go over 65-70MPH, and it's too hard to get my son in/out.
good call on the guage not being a good indicator for oil pressure. don't know why but after a long trip it measures low. just as a test when it was indicating low pressure while idling after a long trip i disconnected the wire at the sender unit. after waiting a few minuted i connected the sender again and had normal oil pressure. suffice to say the guage is not working properly. thanks for the info, as i was concerned to say the least. sorry to hear about your minivan search. i came to the land of the TLC from minivan land. they are practical but so is a moped :-). i know this could erupt into a firestorm but after months of deliberation i drove a land rover discovery the other day (we are looking for a second vehicle). I still don't know what we are getting, but i'm sure of what we're not getting!!!
I went from a 2000 ML430 to a 2001 Landcrusier last February and I do not regret it one bit. I have owned both a 1999 and 2000 M-Class and was not pleased with the fit. Albeit the 2000 was a vast improvement, but for about 10K more for the LC, the quality difference is simply amazing.
I think if you go with the LC, you will notice a huge differnce in the ride. I was always irritated with the M-Class's shaky behavior on city streets. I have 12000 miles on my LC, and the ride is a good as new.
However, you have children, so I would agree with the post earlier about how high up the LC is. Your kids might feel like they are climbing a mountain; I know my mother did!
My LC is by far the best vehicle I have ever owned. (Should be for the price.) I have no intention on trading anytime soon.
Yes $49000 is big bucks to drive kids around town. Is'nt it true that in the worst case scenario they would be safe? I do not mean to hurt other's feelings but I think it is sacrilege to even suggest a minivan to a person who has driven Mercedes M-Class and wants to buy a Landcruiser!!!!! Just my opinion.
I have driven minivan only once in my life when I rented it for a week to bus a bunch of people around. I liked it but after driving an SUV I dont think I would buy one instead of a quality SUV. As far as the mileage goes my 4Runner gets 20-21 mpg and Landcruiser get around 15-16. The brand new rental van gave a mileage of around 18-20!!! There is absolutely no comparision between LC and any van no matter how good it is.
As far as kids go as someone said earlier they are quick learners as to how to get in or out of the vehicle. In fact my kids love to ride in SUVs and hate my car.
If the choice is between DEMO LC for $49K and Mercedes for $40K then maybe you should consider a used LC which is one to 2 years old. At least it would have been used by one owner as against who knows how many people driving a demo unit. This should bring it down to less than 40K.
As you may have figured that TLC has a cult like following and until you own and drive one it is very hard to explain how owning and having it feels. Like .....I will never understand why my friend paid 30K to buy a Honda Odyssey!!!
I currently own a 2001 TLC that I enjoy very much. However, a peculiar mechanical sound has begun which I cannot determine the derivation of. The vehicle is garaged. When I start it in the a.m. it sounds fine until I place it into gear to back out of the garage.
Once in gear it makes a "diesel" like noise for about 1/4 mile. After that, the noise abates. Has anyone shared this same experience.
I'm running the vehicle on 5-30 Mobil 1 which should prevent piston slap.
Yours is the first LC I have heard with this, but what you are describing is VERY common on the 4.7 V8 in the Tundra and Sequoia. It generally only happens when the weather and engine are cold. It is the injectors. The LC injectors are more heavily insulated than the Tundra or Sequoia so you don't hear it as much. The "fix" is more insulating tape.
My Tundra does this quite often and takes 2 to 5 minutes to abate. It is more an annoyance than a problem.
I have had 6 TLC's, but currently own 3 TLC's. You are right, when you get dialed into the TLC community there is almost a cult like following. My kids from tot hood, grew up around TLC's and in some measure learned hand eye motor coordination in getting in and out of the various TLC's mentioned above. When they were relatively rare, we used to make a game out of counting landcruisers on long trips.
TLC's are capable of going a long way and a long time. While I have had a 1974 TLC,(probably one big mistake I made was selling it) the most recent cluster started with the 1987 bought in late 1986. I sold it in 2001 (250k miles, with 43% depreciation over 15 yrs) The other 91 TLC is in the hands of a family member and her family.
I have just purchased a 2000 TLC. We have wanted one for a long time and it is great for hauling the kids around and car pooling. One of my wife's favorite features is the seat warmer. She has complained that it works intermittanly. My question...do the seat warmers heat to a certain temp or for a period of time and then auto shut off and on?
Zuma has a 2001. The heat shield tsb was for '98's and '99's. I doubt they would leave that uncorrected and have to issue a new tsb. Regardless, the heat shield rattle did not happen only during warm-up, but at any old time and was intermittent at that. In fact, it was more frequent when the car was already at running temp.
I have a 98 TLC. Over Christmas I took a roadtrip from Chicago to the east coast. The truck ran great and made for a pleasurable trip. However, I did notice that when I stopped momentarily to pay a toll and rolled down the windows, I heard a noticable clicking noise coming from the exhaust (similar to the sound that you hear when the engine is turned off). I assumed that this was due to cold air cooling the exhaust. I also noticed that when the ambient temperature warmed up a bit (approximately 45 degrees F or higher) this noise abated. In any event, I could not hear the clicking if I rolled up the window.
Was what I heard a normal noise or is it a cracked heat shield?
I have a 2001 TLC that makes the same clicking noise. Its real noticeable when I pull up to a drive through window. I have taken the noise to be normal.
My 98 had the cracked heat shield. It did not make a ticking noise but rather more of a scraping/fast metal on metal rattle. It was either very annoying or not there at all. Got more frequent over time (the first time I took it in to the dealer - before the tsb was issued - they "could not replicate customer complaint"). By the time it took it in a month later it was more frequent and actually was rattling when I drove in to the service check-in. The service writer knew immediately why I was there...
I sold my MB 300TE and bought a 98 Silver TLC in October. It was off a 3 year lease w/36k and cost $34000. My selection was very limited in W. Michigan and after spending months looking in newspapers and on the web I felt comfortable with my purchase and I have always been partial to silver as cars in W. Michigan are covered with salt while driving in Grand Rapids in winter. The dealer gave me a 6k or 6 mo warranty on the drive train and I opted for Toyota 100k upgrade for $300 plus dollars. I have towed an enclosed aluminum trailer on icy roads and have been quite pleased with the handling.
I have also owned 4 suburbans the past 17 years and the TLC is much more solid feeling. I am not too concerned about mileage as that is a small part of the total cost of ownership. I have put 6k miles on it thus far with no problems.
The ticking sound is probably caused by your catalytic converter. The noise is especially noticeable in cold weather when the ignition is shut off. All cars equipped with this converter make the same noise, but it is definitely more noticeable in sports utility vehicles--probably because they ride higher off the ground. The sound is normal and nothing to be concerned about.
Has anyone experienced the following problem: our 2000 LC started locking itself automatically.
When the vehicle is started after a few seconds a high pitched squeal almost like the key alert sounds. It is constant. Please share if you have had any similar problems. Thanks
I thought maybe someone here would recognize the annoying (but familiar) sound that I have coming from my rear passenger side tire area. I recall hearing this on other cars while walking down a city street, but I don't know what it is.
I have a 2001 LC, and when I hit moderate bumps while driving between 10 and 35 MPH, I hear a clattering sound, either in or near the tire. It sounds kind of like keys being tossed around in a Coke can. Again, it's only when I hit bumps and at no other time.
I recall hearing this exact sound on other cars when walking down a busy city street, but it's usually on older cars.
My 2001 does this too. But, so did my 98 Jeep GC 5.9 V8, and my other 2000 LC (recently sold). It only happens for the first few 100 yards on a cold start.
If you hear it on the inside, imagine how loud it is outside. I was curious and had someone else drive out of the garage, and was amazed at how well insulated the LC is. The engine is very loud at times, esp when pulling away from a stop sign, etc.
This explains the horrified look on all of the children's faces when I approach them trying to cross the street, etc. I always wondered why they backed up so far.
Tony: I have a 2000 LC and this is a new one on me. I have never heard any strange noise except for a cold weather rear brake squeak that goes away after a mile or so. And by the way, the brake squeak has been noted in a TSB and my dealer is going to fix it under warranty.
Nevermind about my annoying and mysterious sound!The dealership found it (after me having to go back twice in one day.) Somehow a metal wire (about three times as thick as barbed wired) got hooked right up against the one of the rear brake discs. After removing the tire, he simply took it off, as if removing a hanger from a closet. It was in the shape of a candy cane, clattering about.
I'm so sorry to have second guessed my Land Cruiser. I apologized to it, and gave it a bath.
my wife's '00 lc has experienced on two occasions a high pitched squeal. The first time I took it to the dealer and demonstrated it to the service advisor. Lo and behold when the tech tried to duplicate it the problem did not occur. Several months later the noise returned. It eventually went away after about 1 week. The noise occurred only when the emergency brake is on. The service advisor said that he had not seen/heard of this problem before.I haven't been able to find the source of the noise either.
I'm going to be doing a road trip with six teenagers as passengers (yeah, I know I'm crazy) and want to put everone's luggage on top. What's your experience with packing luggage on the roof rack? Any recommended products to consider, like tarps or whatever, to manage this well? (Please give sources too) Please share your experience with me as I've always had plenty of room inside my 2000 TLC (have the 3rd seat setup) till now.
i was told today that i need to replace my water pump because it was leaking.
this morning when i drove my LC i noticed the engine was overheating and that i wasnt getting heat from my vent. i stopped and saw that coolant was leaking from the water pump (i think)and coolant sprayed all over the front of the engine.
i found out that i was down 1 qt of oil and my radiator overflow tank was empty.
i put in a qt of oil and filled the overflow tank with water and the engine temp went back to normal and i got heat from my vent.
i was told that water pumps have a bleeder hole that starts leaking when the pump goes bad.
could anyone verify this for me? or does coolant normally leak like this when the engine overheats.
i did notice once about 1 year ago that coolant leaked overnight from the same place when i parked my truck in the cold. since then its been fine until today.
Yes, a leaking water pump needs to be replaced. I would replace all the hoses at the same time and the thermostat, too. Check the rad for leaks. Keep an eye out for a bad head gasket.
When my '91 overheated, it was because the radiator pipes had become constricted, much like plaque in an artery. This happened at 140,000 miles. You might want to verify flow through the radiator, otherwise you put on a new water-pump, fill up the coolant, and the truck still overheats due to restricted coolant flow.
If memory serves me correctly, the water pump on my oldest TLC gave out about 170k? Or about the 10 yr mark? I used an every two yr cycle of flush and coolant change (dealer). I see the water pump as a quasi "planned unscheduled" maintenance item. As soon as it shows seepage it is best to change the water pump out. You don't need it to break down when you least of all need/want or expect it.
The next to go was the radiator at the 13-14 yr (230-240k) mark.
i made an appt to get it replaced this saturday. it'll run about 350$ with the TLCA discount at the toyota dealer. 100 for the pump and 4 hours labor at 60$/hr.
Actually extrapolating from the 1987 TLC, yeah it sounds about correct off the top of my head the fj60 cost 250. The fj80's have two belts as opposed to one belt for the fj60's. So figure about 1/2 to 1 hr more for labor. The water pump cost seems to be right.
If your belts are approaching 90-100k of wear you might bite the bullet (also 79 bucks dealer price) and change those puppies also. Also, ask them if they would comp you labor and just charge you for the belts (32 bucks) since they have included labor alread to R/R the belts anyway.
I have a 2000 LC and thinking of installing an after market WOOD DASH kits Has anyone installed an WOOD DASH kit on LC? If so, can you recommend a particular vendor or site links for on-line purchase? How easy are these kits to instal by DIY? How durable are they as far as staying glued to the dash? What is a fair price to pay for a Burl wood kits of 13 or 26 pieces?
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I lost my entertainment system - dvd player and two video screens. My insurance paid for everything. I am just disappointed in Toyota for not installing a real alarm system. You would think as much as we pay for this truck it would include an advanced alarm system. I was told by Toyota that the window breaking sensor and the door sensor was an upgrade to the alarm system and would cost another 489 dollars. I will let you all know what happens, i am talking to my dealer to get them to install it for free. I told them i was mislead by my salesman who told me the truck was equipped with a great alarm. So this is a message to all of you, have your alarms checked. Take your truck back to the dealer and ask them if it has a shock sensor and a door sensor, which means if a door is opened will it make the horn honk and the lights flash. If it does not you only have an engine disabler alarm. And it will not make the horn honk and the lights flash if a window is broken and a door is opened.
I'm surprised about the alarm issue. I've previously had a 92 and 95 LC, both which had alarms on the doors. I currently have a 2000LC, and after your post went to check the original sticker and the owner's manual. I didn't pay for any alarm upgrade, but in the owner's manual it says that in addition to the engine immobilizer, there are alarms on the doors and battery. It even gives instructions on how to test to make sure if it is working. I wonder if it was just certain years that didn't have a "full" alarm system as standard equipment.
With power doors the kids can get in more safely without having you run around the car a bunch of times. With all the extra space a fully assembled two seat jog stroller / bike trailer combo unit can be loaded without having to fold it up. The minivan is rated for 19 MPG city and 26 MPG hwy.
Only huge gas guzzlers like the YukonXL or Suburban or Expedition and vans like the Astro/Safari can compete on volume of the interior. The huge SUVs are too tall for small kids to get themselves in and they don't come with power doors.
Get a minivan or you'll be missing out.
If the LandCruiser got over 20 mpg I might buy one for myself.
It is very scary... all that space with very little structural support it collapses like a card box. If you don't believe me go to a body shop and take a look for your self. For the extra 4 miles per gallon you save on a minivan (6 gallons of fuel per tank) I will rather be in a Land Cruiser.
Anyone I know that drives a minivan can't wait until they don't need one any more. I surely don't feel like that about my LC.
Any break-in, initial care or accessory tips for a newbie?
I plan to drive from South East Texas to Southern California just a few days after I take possession. Any problems with the long hours on a new vehicle? I have been told to vary the rpms frequently for the first 1,000 miles so that the rings seat properly.
Ron Gregg
Most late model minivans will do better for the occupants in a crash than a TLC with it's stiff, ladder frame. The TLC must rely on the other object in the crash to crumple to absorb the crash energy. OK if you hit a Neon. Not OK if you hit a brick wall
..
You are correct, the Trooper's crumple zone is in the other car, just like the LandCruiser's. I expect to be able to steer clear of a brick wall, but I cannot prevent other drivers from testing their crumple zones on my Trooper. I agree the minivan is a crumple zone waiting to happen. It did happen to someone I know (no one was hurt, new minivan got whole new passenger side sheet metal plus front and rear bumpers, other small car was totaled) and they now drive an older model Suburban.
..
My wife does not want an SUV. She would rather drive a Miata or Z3 stick shift. She drives the minivan, while we have kids around, but the minivan is so nice on long trips that we will probably always have one or rent one.
sorry to hear about your minivan search. i came to the land of the TLC from minivan land. they are practical but so is a moped :-).
i know this could erupt into a firestorm but after months of deliberation i drove a land rover discovery the other day (we are looking for a second vehicle). I still don't know what we are getting, but i'm sure of what we're not getting!!!
I went from a 2000 ML430 to a 2001 Landcrusier last February and I do not regret it one bit. I have owned both a 1999 and 2000 M-Class and was not pleased with the fit. Albeit the 2000 was a vast improvement, but for about 10K more for the LC, the quality difference is simply amazing.
I think if you go with the LC, you will notice a huge differnce in the ride. I was always irritated with the M-Class's shaky behavior on city streets. I have 12000 miles on my LC, and the ride is a good as new.
However, you have children, so I would agree with the post earlier about how high up the LC is. Your kids might feel like they are climbing a mountain; I know my mother did!
My LC is by far the best vehicle I have ever owned. (Should be for the price.) I have no intention on trading anytime soon.
I have driven minivan only once in my life when I rented it for a week to bus a bunch of people around. I liked it but after driving an SUV I dont think I would buy one instead of a quality SUV. As far as the mileage goes my 4Runner gets 20-21 mpg and Landcruiser get around 15-16. The brand new rental van gave a mileage of around 18-20!!! There is absolutely no comparision between LC and any van no matter how good it is.
As far as kids go as someone said earlier they are quick learners as to how to get in or out of the vehicle. In fact my kids love to ride in SUVs and hate my car.
If the choice is between DEMO LC for $49K and Mercedes for $40K then maybe you should consider a used LC which is one to 2 years old. At least it would have been used by one owner as against who knows how many people driving a demo unit. This should bring it down to less than 40K.
As you may have figured that TLC has a cult like following and until you own and drive one it is very hard to explain how owning and having it feels. Like .....I will never understand why my friend paid 30K to buy a Honda Odyssey!!!
Once in gear it makes a "diesel" like noise for about 1/4 mile. After that, the noise abates. Has anyone shared this same experience.
I'm running the vehicle on 5-30 Mobil 1 which should prevent piston slap.
My Tundra does this quite often and takes 2 to 5 minutes to abate. It is more an annoyance than a problem.
I have had 6 TLC's, but currently own 3 TLC's. You are right, when you get dialed into the TLC community there is almost a cult like following. My kids from tot hood, grew up around TLC's and in some measure learned hand eye motor coordination in getting in and out of the various TLC's mentioned above. When they were relatively rare, we used to make a game out of counting landcruisers on long trips.
TLC's are capable of going a long way and a long time. While I have had a 1974 TLC,(probably one big mistake I made was selling it) the most recent cluster started with the 1987 bought in late 1986. I sold it in 2001 (250k miles, with 43% depreciation over 15 yrs) The other 91 TLC is in the hands of a family member and her family.
Good luck!
HiC
Was what I heard a normal noise or is it a cracked heat shield?
HiC
I have also owned 4 suburbans the past 17 years and the TLC is much more solid feeling. I am not too concerned about mileage as that is a small part of the total cost of ownership. I have put 6k miles on it thus far with no problems.
When the vehicle is started after a few seconds a high pitched squeal almost like the key alert sounds. It is constant. Please share if you have had any similar problems. Thanks
I own a 2000 TLC and have never heard a "key alert sound." Are you talking about the chirping sound some cars make when the alarm is set?
I have a 2001 LC, and when I hit moderate bumps while driving between 10 and 35 MPH, I hear a clattering sound, either in or near the tire. It sounds kind of like keys being tossed around in a Coke can. Again, it's only when I hit bumps and at no other time.
I recall hearing this exact sound on other cars when walking down a busy city street, but it's usually on older cars.
Any thoughts?
If you hear it on the inside, imagine how loud it is outside. I was curious and had someone else drive out of the garage, and was amazed at how well insulated the LC is. The engine is very loud at times, esp when pulling away from a stop sign, etc.
This explains the horrified look on all of the children's faces when I approach them trying to cross the street, etc. I always wondered why they backed up so far.
I'm so sorry to have second guessed my Land Cruiser. I apologized to it, and gave it a bath.
this morning when i drove my LC i noticed the engine was overheating and that i wasnt getting heat from my vent. i stopped and saw that coolant was leaking from the water pump (i think)and coolant sprayed all over the front of the engine.
i found out that i was down 1 qt of oil and my radiator overflow tank was empty.
i put in a qt of oil and filled the overflow tank with water and the engine temp went back to normal and i got heat from my vent.
i was told that water pumps have a bleeder hole that starts leaking when the pump goes bad.
could anyone verify this for me? or does coolant normally leak like this when the engine overheats.
i did notice once about 1 year ago that coolant leaked overnight from the same place when i parked my truck in the cold. since then its been fine until today.
as always, thanks in advance for any info.
If memory serves me correctly, the water pump on my oldest TLC gave out about 170k? Or about the 10 yr mark? I used an every two yr cycle of flush and coolant change (dealer). I see the water pump as a quasi "planned unscheduled" maintenance item. As soon as it shows seepage it is best to change the water pump out. You don't need it to break down when you least of all need/want or expect it.
The next to go was the radiator at the 13-14 yr (230-240k) mark.
i made an appt to get it replaced this saturday. it'll run about 350$ with the TLCA discount at the toyota dealer. 100 for the pump and 4 hours labor at 60$/hr.
does this sound about right?
thanks again!
Actually extrapolating from the 1987 TLC, yeah it sounds about correct off the top of my head the fj60 cost 250. The fj80's have two belts as opposed to one belt for the fj60's. So figure about 1/2 to 1 hr more for labor. The water pump cost seems to be right.
If your belts are approaching 90-100k of wear you might bite the bullet (also 79 bucks dealer price) and change those puppies also. Also, ask them if they would comp you labor and just charge you for the belts (32 bucks) since they have included labor alread to R/R the belts anyway.
How durable are they as far as staying glued to the dash? What is a fair price to pay for a Burl wood kits of 13 or 26 pieces?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.