I have a TLC with the dealer installed burlwood kit.
It is gorgegous!! However unless you are willing or willing to pay for correct "janitorial upkeep" I would save the money! The first scratch will tear your hair out!
nrossi, You'll never get an objective answer to that question as offroad "prowess" depends on a lot of factors. And Toyota has produced many different models of Cruisers that have different capabilities.
h3ybfpf, I've been thinking of a wood dash kit myself, for my 2000 LC. I fond a factory 8-piece kit available through www.toyota-parts.com for $375. I've heard that after market kits are generally thicker than the factory kits and hence do not conform as well to the contours. I'm curious as to what extra items the 13 & 26 part kits contain. Do one of these extra pieces cover up the flip up lid in the cup holder area?.
Three times in the past 2 days when I have come to a stop my 95 with 110k miles has revved up to about 1600rpm in drive and 2000rpm in park. I shut the vehicle off and start it again- same. Have not been able to trace or link it to any certain event or sequence. Am thinking some switch gone bad, seems same rpm as cold start in the morning. Any suggestions?
while up in the mountains this past week I experienced a strange problem in sub-freezing temps. My wife's 00 LC would start, but the check engine light and the VSC lights stayed on. The truck could only move at the idle speed. Not responding to the gas pedal. Later that day when the temp warmed up the truck worked normally, This happened on two consecutive days. Since those two mornings, the truck has not acted up again even on two sub-zero temp mornings! Anyone ever have this happen to them?
I notice that Edmunds states that both the TLC and Sequoia have 4WD. I was under the impression that the TLC had full time AWD. Can anyone clarify this for me? I refer to the 2002 TLC.
This is a semantic question. I suggest clicking over the the topic here at Edmunds called "Toyota 4WD systems explained" which is here in the SUV conference. That should answer all your questions about this 4WD system.
I have been searching for a used SUV .... correction QUALITY SUV for some time now. I am a research freak and have come to the conclusion that you can't go wrong with a good used TLC. I am looking at possibly 1993-1996 range mainly for price reasons. I am also looking at 100k + on the odometer which comes with the age. What are the problems I can expect for a 100k + miles LC, how long can I expect this vehicle to perform, and what year of those three is the best, what kind of trailer can I pull (u-haul, boat, any experiences on limits of the 6 cyl.??)? Personally I know the LC history of performance but don't want to get blindsided by my desire for this vehicle. I plan on an off-roader / family (dog) hauler / and possibly pulling a trailer.
I asked about this once before on this forum and did not get a satisfactory response. So here goes again...I live in Colorado at altitude and find that my TLC rear window gets pasted with dirty film after the snow melts from the road. I do not have the rear wind deflector and want to know if they "really" do help to reduce this phenomenon. I'd especially like to hear from parties who live in the mountains and have experienced similar winter weather conditions.
I have a new 2002 LC that is just 2 weeks old. Yesterday it was very difficult to start in the morning after sitting in the garage all night. Happened again today. Anyone else experience this?
The Road Store https://www.roadstore.com/ has the best prices on Husky gear anwhere. I got the Cargo Liner for my '98 for $69.99. PerformanceProducts.com $109.95.
Why was your post deleted? Because it had a link to some Land Cruiser orgs? I just re-read the Edmunds agreement (in case they changed it from my last reading) and there is no violation for posting those links. Your post was deleted without cause.
Personally, I think your posting of those links, and others such as TLCA, do a great service to LC owners. Thank you.
"You agree that, except with Edmunds.com’s prior consent, you will not solicit or promote any products or services, nor self-promote (either in your Postings or in your profiles) for personal gain within Town Hall You agree to not promote other auto forums that provide message boards or chats."
And those posts did not "solicit or promote any products or services, nor self-promote...". They were simply links to organizations that could help answer an asked question.
>while up in the mountains this past week I experienced a >strange problem in sub-freezing temps. My wife's 00 LC would >start, but the check engine light and the VSC lights stayed >on. The truck could only move at the idle speed. Not >responding to the gas pedal. Later that day when the temp >warmed up the truck worked normally, This happened on two >consecutive days. Since those two mornings, the truck has >not acted up again even on two sub-zero temp mornings! >Anyone ever have this happen to them?
I had this happen twice about a year ago on my '98 (a pre-VSC model). It was below freezing, I started the LC, and the throttle seemed like it simply didn't do anything... unless you put it all the way to the floor, at which point you get full-throttle response. Simply not driveable.
After about an hour of warming up the car by idling, the problem fixed itself.
I took it to the dealer who read the engine error codes, and they determined that the electronic throttle sensor had failed. It would be a $900+ fix, but I chose not to do it since the problem only happened one other time.
Both times it happened were extremely cold nights when the LC was parked outside. These days it's garaged and after a year of no more problems I doubt it will happen again.
In any case, I suspect some moisture got into the throttle position sensor, froze on some of the surfaces, and failed the startup check when the engine was turned on. I'm still shocked it's $900+ to replace a sensor.
thanks for the info on the husky liners. does anyone have any info on 98 lc cargo/pet gates? does anyone make a custom fit product or a net of some sort? thanks in advance
I have a 99LC and was wondering if anyone knows anything about aftermarket Roof top cargo boxes? With 2 kids and a 110lb lab, there's not much room inside so I'm in the market for a cargo box. I've looked at Yakima and Thule. I'm comparing Yakima-Space Case and Thules 600 Classic or 1800 Evolution.
Anyone have one on top of thier LC's? How is the wind noise with one on top? Does it effect gas mileage on highway driving?
Did an oil and filter change this weekend. Also cleaned my K&N air filter. Upon reintallation, I forgot to reconnect the sensor to the air intake hose. When starting the vehicle, it ran for about 5 seconds then shut down. Realizing what I had (or had NOT) done, I connected the sensor and attempted to start the truck again. It worked, but the CHECK ENGINE light and both VSC warning lights came on. The engine/throttle functioned just fine. Took it for a drive with no problem. Tried turning the truck on and off again in an attempt to reset the lights/sensors. Finally, I engaged the diff lock (which turns off the VSC) and then disengaged it. And all the warning lights went out. Temperature at the time this happened? Mid 40's.
I've used Yakima and Thule, on several vehicles. They all do the job, are easy to install on the factory cross bars and do not have all that much wind noise. I have noticed a lot of wind noise when the Yakima is mounted on the Yakima "round" bars. The Thule "rectangle" bars are much quieter. If you need a big box though, I personally could not recommend the Yakima. The locks are too easy to defeat without the key and the box lid is easily distorted. Also, once while loadinig it, a gust of wind snapped one of the gas struts right off it's mount. The large Thule seems better built and has better locks. Just my learned opinion though, YMMV.
If you have more money then you know what to do with, check out the Packasport. They are distributed by Yakima, cost twice as much, but are made of a reinforced fiberglass that is supposed to be much stronger than the plastic used on the other hard tops. They will also paint to match your car, if that is important to you.
I just found this forum and it's great for late model sharing! I have 35,000 mi on my 2000 including some 2,000 mi dirtroading to Alaska's Prudhoe Bay, Canada's Northwest Territories (the Beaufort) Death Valley backcountry and Baja Mexico. No glitches to report!
But I've been unsatisfied with the stock subwoofer's boominess. Liveable, but lo-fi. Any suggestions for an upgrade from a car audio shop? I know nothing about aftermarket speakers.
I put a Packasport 90 (now distributed by Yakima) on my 2000 LC and have been very pleased. Like the LC I paid the extra $$ expecting the more durable construction to last. I holds 6 pairs of ski's, 4 pairs of poles and boots with no problem. I double duty it with kid stuff (2 young ones) like pack and plays, you get it..
Not much impact on MPG ~ 1 at 75 and is suprisingly quiet. It does cover the sunroof, but one long enough to load skis will when you push if forward enough to open the hatch fully. I think it looks good to boot, Black on Black.
My wife is REALLY interested in a very clean 1992 LC with 112,000 miles. The owner wants $12,000 but both Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book put the market value closer to $8,500-$9,000. I'm worried that it already has way too many miles for this price. Any advice?
Standard advice is to pass on the fj80 and look for a '93 to '97 fzj80. The 3FE motor is not enough to move the '91/'92 TLC, and the later rigs have optional ABS, 4wheel disc brakes, diff lockers, etc.
I took my 2000 LC into the dealer to get the door lock programming changed. I want the doors to lock when you start the car. The dealer told me it couldn't be done on my model year since the body ECU(?) didn't support this.
Didn't someone on this board have this completed successfully on a 2000?
I see an add for a 96 LC on yahoo, at a dealership close to were I work - Manhattan. So, I call them up and schedule a test drive on my lunch hour. The salesmen calls me back the next day and confirms our appointment. Come noon, I leave work for the dealership. It takes me a half hour to get there traveling through a maze of subways, finalized by a 1/4 mile walk. I get there and, guess what - the salesman isn't there! He's out trying to sell sun glasses to the blind or something, but he'll be back soon. Twenty or so minutes pass, and he is no where to be seen.
Enter salesmen (snake) B.
"Say, who are you waiting for again? Oh, I don't know what's keeping him. Do you guys have a deal going on. No. Well maybe I can help you? What were you here to see? The Land Cruiser, Oh yes, the 99, excellent car. 96???. Hold on a second. (looks like he's doing something, but he's just trying to look good). There must be some mistake, we don't have a 96, we have a 99. It's parked right out front. What, your not interested in a 99? Well, I am sorry to have wasted your time."
This kind of stuff should be a crime. I wish there was something that could be done about it. Car dealers can be the scum of the earth. When ever I walk into a dealership, I feel like I am entering into a den of thieves and have to do my best to defend myself against being ripped off.
Took the 00 LC to the dealer, the computer error code was P1120/1121, evidently interpreted as "Accelerator pedal position sensor circuit malfunction/ Accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem". Dealer replaced the part #22060-50011 Lever Assy, Throt--under warranty (the part was backordered). I hope the problem has now been solved.
The original Michelin LTX are great if you do mostly highway driving. It has a utog rating of 400. With a tread depth of 12/32. I think the Cross Terrain is a 500 utog rating with a 11/32 tread depth. The question is whether or not there is a price to performance premium (cost, performance). I really like the Michelin LTX's I have and have had 11 sets of them. Obviously if the Cross Terrain is better I would consider switching.
With the LTX I have gotten upwards of 90k per set.So that would project to >9000 per 1/32, (2/32 is the bald legal limit 10/32.
So with 30% greater utog rating on the Cross Terrain 520 utog (correction), that would project to >11,700 per 1/32, (2/32 is the bald legal limit. 11/32-2/32= 9/32, for this example, the per mile cost per set is: LTX .005466 vs CT .0052041. If the CT has a performance edge over the LTX, I am ready to switch!
Can anyone share information you may know about what a 1978 LC is like? What I mean is, what type of engine, transmissions, seating capacities, body style? I seen one advertised for $9995 in my local paper and was wondering if that was a good price. The ad said that the vehicle was in good condition and that everything worked. Not that I'll buy it or anything but just for future information. Thanks to all!
You have no idea how big your question actually is. The FJ40 and FJ55 were both made in '78 but one would assume that you are looking at an FJ40. The FJ40 is similar to a Jeep Wrangler on steriods. There are two jump seats in the back and I really wouldn't want anybody riding there, although you could fit two back there. It had an inline 6 cylinder engine (known as the 2F) and it is a work horse. As to value, condition is everything. A completely restored on will fetch much more than $10,000. A rusted out hunk of junk isn't worth $1000 (well, maybe it would if some of the parts can be salvaged).
What you are looking at is a classic, with a cult following. I suggest doing a lot more research. I'm sure some of the guys here can point you to web sites that specialize in this truck.
Yes, I go get around the TH. I haven't posted here in the LC topic in quite some time, but I do lurk here and answer when I can. If you go for the '78, be sure to check for engine sludge
In the USA in 1978, toyota brought in the fj40 and the fj55. 40 is a short wheel base rig, and the 55 is a 4 door wagon. Both share the identical drivetrain (2F motor, 4 speed tranny, transfer-case, 4.1 diffs, and axles). The brake setup is dual circuit, front disc and rear drum, with a drum e-brake on the transfer case. IMO '78 is the best year for those 2 models.
Seating in the fj40 is buckets up front and jump seats in the rear. It has a stock roll bar with regular seat belts.
55's are very prone to rust, and body parts are very difficult to find. 40 rust can be salvaged. Given the price, I'll assume that the rig is a 55 in good shape or a 40 in excellent shape. Older TLC prices have come way down in the past 2 years.
For more info, see the FAQL, written by Rob Mullen:
I'm looking into a 95 fzj80. It has about 79K miles and is going for around 17K. It has leather , locking diffs, moon roof, but no roof rack or tow hitch both of which I kind of need.
Is this a good price? Also, being that I need the hitch and rack, how expensive would it be for me to put them on after?
Price on the 80 depends on your local market. It seems reasonable for Idaho. Consider investing in a factory repair manual, too.
An aftermarket class III tow hitch will set you back $125 to $150. Except to pay 2-3 times that for one from the dealer. It's not hard to install yourself. The trailer wiring adapter kit can be had from the dealer. It plugs right into the connectors in the back on both sides of the rig. Not sure on labor to install the hitch, but I'd guess another $50 to $100.
Roof rack prices vary widely depending on the style of rack. Full-length ARB racks run about $800. There are many others. Dunno about factory racks, but you can probably get a used setup for a song from TAP Recycling.
I'm about to purchase a 2002 Land Cruiser, I read the TLC requires premium unleaded gasoline while the Sequoia takes regular unleaded. Please enlighten me, I thought the 2 engines are very similar why is the difference in gasoline grades? Can I strictly use regular unleaded in a Land Cruiser?
Comments
I have a TLC with the dealer installed burlwood kit.
It is gorgegous!! However unless you are willing or willing to pay for correct "janitorial upkeep" I would save the money! The first scratch will tear your hair out!
Chack out http://www.autodash.com/ They list several manufacturers and dash kits for TLC. The prices are much more reasonable than toyota-parts.
I was hopping more people can share their experiences with installing an aftermarket dash kits as far as choices/prices/ease of installation, etc...
Any suggestions?
Cleaning the rear window would.
Personally, I think your posting of those links, and others such as TLCA, do a great service to LC owners. Thank you.
HiC
Juice said it good:
ateixeira "Honda CR-V" Feb 6, 2002 11:21am
Back to the mountain?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
And those posts did not "solicit or promote any products or services, nor self-promote...". They were simply links to organizations that could help answer an asked question.
HiC
>strange problem in sub-freezing temps. My wife's 00 LC would
>start, but the check engine light and the VSC lights stayed
>on. The truck could only move at the idle speed. Not
>responding to the gas pedal. Later that day when the temp
>warmed up the truck worked normally, This happened on two
>consecutive days. Since those two mornings, the truck has
>not acted up again even on two sub-zero temp mornings!
>Anyone ever have this happen to them?
I had this happen twice about a year ago on my '98 (a pre-VSC model). It was below freezing, I started the LC, and the throttle seemed like it simply didn't do anything... unless you put it all the way to the floor, at which point you get full-throttle response. Simply not driveable.
After about an hour of warming up the car by idling, the problem fixed itself.
I took it to the dealer who read the engine error codes, and they determined that the electronic throttle sensor had failed. It would be a $900+ fix, but I chose not to do it since the problem only happened one other time.
Both times it happened were extremely cold nights when the LC was parked outside. These days it's garaged and after a year of no more problems I doubt it will happen again.
In any case, I suspect some moisture got into the throttle position sensor, froze on some of the surfaces, and failed the startup check when the engine was turned on. I'm still shocked it's $900+ to replace a sensor.
thanks in advance
Anyone have one on top of thier LC's? How is the wind noise with one on top? Does it effect gas mileage on highway driving?
If you have more money then you know what to do with, check out the Packasport. They are distributed by Yakima, cost twice as much, but are made of a reinforced fiberglass that is supposed to be much stronger than the plastic used on the other hard tops. They will also paint to match your car, if that is important to you.
Good luck,
HiC
But I've been unsatisfied with the stock subwoofer's boominess. Liveable, but lo-fi. Any suggestions for an upgrade from a car audio shop? I know nothing about aftermarket speakers.
Not much impact on MPG ~ 1 at 75 and is suprisingly quiet. It does cover the sunroof, but one long enough to load skis will when you push if forward enough to open the hatch fully. I think it looks good to boot, Black on Black.
Didn't someone on this board have this completed successfully on a 2000?
I see an add for a 96 LC on yahoo, at a dealership close to were I work - Manhattan. So, I call them up and schedule a test drive on my lunch hour. The salesmen calls me back the next day and confirms our appointment. Come noon, I leave work for the dealership. It takes me a half hour to get there traveling through a maze of subways, finalized by a 1/4 mile walk. I get there and, guess what - the salesman isn't there! He's out trying to sell sun glasses to the blind or something, but he'll be back soon. Twenty or so minutes pass, and he is no where to be seen.
Enter salesmen (snake) B.
"Say, who are you waiting for again? Oh, I don't know what's keeping him. Do you guys have a deal going on. No. Well maybe I can help you? What were you here to see? The Land Cruiser, Oh yes, the 99, excellent car. 96???. Hold on a second.
(looks like he's doing something, but he's just trying to look good). There must be some mistake, we don't have a 96, we have a 99. It's parked right out front. What, your not interested in a 99? Well, I am sorry to have wasted your time."
This kind of stuff should be a crime. I wish there was something that could be done about it. Car dealers can be the scum of the earth. When ever I walk into a dealership, I feel like I am entering into a den of thieves and have to do my best to defend myself against being ripped off.
Nick
I need to replace the original tires on my '98 LC. Does anyone have any advice or experience with what they've used?
At the moment I'm looking at the new Michelin Cross-Terrain which is a newer SUV-specific design for highway use. Any experience with it?
Thanks for any advice.
-Sahara111
The original Michelin LTX are great if you do mostly highway driving. It has a utog rating of 400. With a tread depth of 12/32. I think the Cross Terrain is a 500 utog rating with a 11/32 tread depth. The question is whether or not there is a price to performance premium (cost, performance). I really like the Michelin LTX's I have and have had 11 sets of them. Obviously if the Cross Terrain is better I would consider switching.
an addendum:
With the LTX I have gotten upwards of 90k per set.So that would project to >9000 per 1/32, (2/32 is the bald legal limit 10/32.
So with 30% greater utog rating on the Cross Terrain 520 utog (correction), that would project to >11,700 per 1/32, (2/32 is the bald legal limit.
11/32-2/32= 9/32, for this example, the per mile cost per set is: LTX .005466 vs CT .0052041. If the CT has a performance edge over the LTX, I am ready to switch!
I thought it was 2000 or 2001 that it became standard but thought I would post here to make sure.
Thanks
What you are looking at is a classic, with a cult following. I suggest doing a lot more research. I'm sure some of the guys here can point you to web sites that specialize in this truck.
Seating in the fj40 is buckets up front and jump seats in the rear. It has a stock roll bar with regular seat belts.
55's are very prone to rust, and body parts are very difficult to find. 40 rust can be salvaged. Given the price, I'll assume that the rig is a 55 in good shape or a 40 in excellent shape. Older TLC prices have come way down in the past 2 years.
For more info, see the FAQL, written by Rob Mullen:
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/faq.html
Is this a good price? Also, being that I need the hitch and rack, how expensive would it be for me to put them on after?
Thanks
Nick
An aftermarket class III tow hitch will set you back $125 to $150. Except to pay 2-3 times that for one from the dealer. It's not hard to install yourself. The trailer wiring adapter kit can be had from the dealer. It plugs right into the connectors in the back on both sides of the rig. Not sure on labor to install the hitch, but I'd guess another $50 to $100.
Roof rack prices vary widely depending on the style of rack. Full-length ARB racks run about $800. There are many others. Dunno about factory racks, but you can probably get a used setup for a song from TAP Recycling.
Please enlighten me, I thought the 2 engines are very similar why is the difference in gasoline grades? Can I strictly use regular unleaded in a Land Cruiser?