Cliffy1 & edsel4u, many thanks for the advice. Since my max towing weight should only be 2500 lbs. I think I'm going to try the FZJ80 which I will also use off-road. I appreciate you both taking the time to reply.
In the rest of the world, a factory cargo cover is available. Some US dealers can/will order it for you. But none of them will take it back if you don't like it. Details about fit and installation are virtually non-existant. I believe the 3rd row jump seat must be removed for the cover to be used. Price quoted averages around $500.
As for fuel mileage...if you're a lead foot, 12-14 MPG is possible, maybe less. But average driving (with an occasional fast pullout into traffic) you can average 15-16 MPG combination city/highway. On a recent trip from NJ to Cape Cod, 3 adults, 2 kids, a back filled with luggage and stuff, averaging 68-72 MPH, fuel economy was 17.2 MPG!!!
a1gregg, My 2000 LC has a sticker on the inside of the fuel lid which calls for primium only. Do you have a similar sticker on your 2002 LC? If you have used regular consistantly, have you experienced any knocking?
I did not notice a sticker inside of the fuel lid, but I will look when i get a chance. LC is currently in storage and I will not see it for another month and a half. I have used several grades of fuel and have not noticed a problem with any of them. No knocking whatsoever. What I have not done is the analysis to see if using the premium grades is worth the $$$.What does your user's guide say?
Higher compression engines run better on higher octane because more of the fuel explodes in the combustion chamber. My mechanic, who could care less about what gas is used, said that in the long run it was better to spend the extra couple-hundred bucks annually.
The 2000 LC User's manual calls for unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of at least 91 (ie supreme). However, it does say that it is OK to temporarily use regular unleaded gasoline(min. octane rating of 87) if supreme is unavailable.
It depends on the state. Virginia considers it new if a title has never been written, regardless of the miles. MD has a limit of 5K miles. Most banks go by the titling aspect.
I have a '99 LC and have removed a couple of oem parts that I would like to sell. These items are collecting dust in my barn and I know someone out there in TLC land can use them. I have tried ebay and have had no luck. Can anyone recommend a place I could sell these items? Not looking to make money a ton of money, just looking to past these on to someone who might want them.
Should the TSB for the heat sheild rattle be covered under a Toyota certified warranty? The dealer told me that cars out of the 3yr/36,000 mile regular warranty had to pay for TSBs.
He tried eBay (maybe need to run it again?). Town Hall isn't set up for ads, and TLC parts may be too esoteric for the local penny saver ad sheets. Maybe try rec.autos.4x4 on Usenet.... Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Can someone enlighten me with this question? Is the Toyota Type T-IV ATF good for the 1998- 2002 Lexus LX470 and Toyota Land Cruisers? The manual for the these trucks suggests Dextron III. My confusion stems from my old 1996 LS400 operator's manual which recommends the use of Dextron III but everyone on the LS400 forum including the dealer highly recommended the Type T-4 tranny fluid for smooth shifting.
Demo Toyotas can (and often) have anywhere from 10 miles to 12,000 miles on them. Just check the registration or DMV printout. The car should have been registered in the name of the dealership to be a true DEMO.
My dealer told me the same thing - fixing heatshield only covered under 3/36 warranty. Have service rep print out - TSB EG005-00 JUN 00 Exhaust - Rattle Noise. You can look at parts list (clamps and little rubber spacers) and decide whether to do yourself, or not.
#1626 The usual time frame that it takes to get to 6 digit mileage @ 15k a yr would be 6.7 years. While I have had 6 digit mileage, (250k app ) this was on a 1987 TLC, FJ60 series. So as you can see, the series as a tendency to change. This particular model before it was sold had app $2,200. in unscheduled maintenance.
#1631
The recommended fuel is the premium fuel or 91/92 octane. The truth is that since the engine is computer controlled, it will run on 87 octane, obviously with correspondingly almost imperceivable loss of power and performance.
I have a 2001 TLC and do mostly city driving. The manual says 7500 mile intervals for oil changes. Is that sufficient or should it be done sooner? The dealer says 5000 mile intervals. Are they just trying to make a buck sooner?
Do the 5k, especially if you are running dino oil (with all those city miles). Maybe with synth you could go 7500, but I'd get an oil analysis once in a while just to be sure. I'd be more concerned about the filter than the oil at that point anyway.
If you plan on owning this car for awhile, more frequent oil changes are the best long-term powertrain warranty money can buy, IMO.
Dealer charges me $60 for an oil change with Mobil 1. Not bad for 8 quarts, plus they lube the diffs and top off other fluids. Do it every 5k. Sleep well.
I am interested in purchasing a 94 tlc w/ 100k miles in excellent overall condition.It has been regularly dealer maintained.This lc is loaded minus leather,power seats, and tutone paint.Asking price is $14k.What can I expect for reliabity,longevity? Will this start to rust out soon? Is it a great rig long term? What would a fair price be? Any input would be greatly appreciated? thanks Rayski
I believe it has the Six cylinder and they were prone to some oil leaks if I recall correctly. I would cruise back over this topic a ways back and you will find some similar questions and comments.
Can someone recommend a good way of removing rust spots/streaks around the front and read wheels' "brake covers" (I hope I've described this part correctly).
I drive 2000LC and live in Midwest. Needless to say, there is a lot of salt on the road during winter. I noticed a lot of 98-01 LC's have these surface rust spots near the callipers on the "round part" that is made of what looks to be an aluminum and looks like it can be open with a key. It probably stores an ABS or VSC mechanism inside. Please note: The callipers do not have rust spots on them.
Anyhow, these rust spots look really bad and I was wondering if there is a way to remove them, preferably without taking the wheels off. Perhaps there is a chemical solution someone is aware of. I realize, one has to be careful not to damage alloy wheels.
The clock on my 1998 TLC continuously picks up time. Typically 2-3 minutes per month. It's actually entertaining as it is about the only fault with the vehicle. Does anyone else share this problem? Is there a fix?
I have a 94 TLC, (original owner)absolutely no rust. (CA)Tire changes @85k. Brake changes at 45k, oil change intervals 15k with synthetic mobil one since new. NO unschedule repair problems to date.
I have a 98 TLC and need to install a tether anchor for my kid's car seat. I purchased the part from my Toyota dealer, which merely comprises a bolt (without a nut) with a metal hoop attached to the top. It looks as if it should screw into a seatbelt anchor on the floor, but I can't find any unused bolt holes. Any suggestions on installing this part would be much appreciated.
has anyone replaced the above factory speakers in a 91 LC? i'm looking for a pair but all are too deep because the window frame is right in back of the magnet. the oem speakers have an inverted magnet which creates a very low profile but i cant seem to find any speakers that will fit without any custom fitting. thanks in advance for any info
on the carb there are 2 fuel lines- one comes from the pump the other straight from the fuel tank. the one that comes from the tank has a "banjo" type fitting. the bolt that connects this fitting to the carb is missing. i assume this bolt is a one of a kind. where can i find one or could one be fabricated? what year did they go to discs up front, and when did they get rid of the parking brake off the transfer case? thanks for th input ref pirate 4x4
You should be able to get the bolt from Specter Offroad (www.sor.com).
Discs in '76, and parking brake went to rear axle in '80/'81 with the introduction of the fj60 wagon. Easy to do the mini disc brake conversion and get larger birfields to boot. Search on pirate forum, and check out Brian Swearingen's site (www.ih8mud.com).
I haven't been here in a while but I though I'd re post some questions I posted a few months back. (I did my homework and scrolled through 1000 previous messages in hopes to find something)
For my 2001LC, my questions are: 1. I'm in Northern CAL and would like a shop name or someone who can professionally bypass the DVD safety features. Any news? 2. How do you get the NAV DVD to eject out of the under-passenger seat player? I figured that the dealer would charge me a mint for the update and wanted to scour the Internet for an update myself. Problem is that I can't find an eject button.
This is a great site and has provided me with a ton of valuable information in the past; including the boomy BASS fix for my stereo.
I kind of doubt a shop will bypass the "safety" feature on the DVD player as it puts them in a bad spot should you wreck the rig while driving with the DVD player engaged.
The right front of my 98 TLC squeaks whenever I go over a bump or dip in the road. I am reluctant to take it to the dealer but wondered if anyone else had encountered this and if there is a home remedy? It has 47k on it and I am very pleased with it thus far.
two questions today 1. I bought the beast not running, now the motor will crank but no spark. my plan is to go thru the standard points, cap, rotor.... but my concern is the wiring. it appears that thru the years my beast has been "modified" from the original configuration. i've pieced it together best i can with a haynes manual but to no avail yet. there is also what appears to be a series of parts above the coil, i'm assuming voltage regulator and something else. any ideas on wading thru this mess to get spark? are there certain things that i should look for or a way to simplify it? the thing (for lack of a better term) above the coil is original and does not look good, what is the best option for replacement, toyota or aftermarket? 2. i had to drain the fuel tank and system, the previous owner had replaced fuel line with an air hose (a technique maybe, but i'll stick to fuel hose) does the pump need to be primed or should it draw from the tank?
Comments
Sean
2) Gas Mileage. I have seen several posts, but nothing real consistent. What are you getting on the highway and the city?
Thanks
As for fuel mileage...if you're a lead foot, 12-14 MPG is possible, maybe less. But average driving (with an occasional fast pullout into traffic) you can average 15-16 MPG combination city/highway. On a recent trip from NJ to Cape Cod, 3 adults, 2 kids, a back filled with luggage and stuff, averaging 68-72 MPH, fuel economy was 17.2 MPG!!!
You might get slightly better mileage with higher octane ratings, but you need to do the arithmetic to see if it is worth the added cost.
Thanks,
Andrew
roane3@hotmail.com
Thanks,
Andrew
Raleigh, NC
Thanks,
Andrew
Raleigh, NC
Steve
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Paul
Thanks for your help on this in advance.
mkwame@yahoo.com
tidester
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The usual time frame that it takes to get to 6 digit mileage @ 15k a yr would be 6.7 years. While I have had 6 digit mileage, (250k app ) this was on a 1987 TLC, FJ60 series. So as you can see, the series as a tendency to change. This particular model before it was sold had app $2,200. in unscheduled maintenance.
#1631
The recommended fuel is the premium fuel or 91/92 octane. The truth is that since the engine is computer controlled, it will run on 87 octane, obviously with correspondingly almost imperceivable loss of power and performance.
If you plan on owning this car for awhile, more frequent oil changes are the best long-term powertrain warranty money can buy, IMO.
Dealer charges me $60 for an oil change with Mobil 1. Not bad for 8 quarts, plus they lube the diffs and top off other fluids. Do it every 5k. Sleep well.
HiC
Can someone recommend a good way of removing rust spots/streaks around the front and read wheels' "brake covers" (I hope I've described this part correctly).
I drive 2000LC and live in Midwest. Needless to say, there is a lot of salt on the road during winter. I noticed a lot of 98-01 LC's have these surface rust spots near the callipers on the "round part" that is made of what looks to be an aluminum and looks like it can be open with a key. It probably stores an ABS or VSC mechanism inside. Please note: The callipers do not have rust spots on them.
Anyhow, these rust spots look really bad and I was wondering if there is a way to remove them, preferably without taking the wheels off. Perhaps there is a chemical solution someone is aware of. I realize, one has to be careful not to damage alloy wheels.
I have a 94 TLC, (original owner)absolutely no rust. (CA)Tire changes @85k. Brake changes at 45k, oil change intervals 15k with synthetic mobil one since new. NO unschedule repair problems to date.
thanks
Pirate 4x4.
what year did they go to discs up front, and when did they get rid of the parking brake off the transfer case?
thanks for th input ref pirate 4x4
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/80scool/ or
http://www.crusherworld.com/ or
http://www.tlca.org/ or
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/
Discs in '76, and parking brake went to rear axle in '80/'81 with the introduction of the fj60 wagon. Easy to do the mini disc brake conversion and get larger birfields to boot. Search on pirate forum, and check out Brian Swearingen's site (www.ih8mud.com).
For my 2001LC, my questions are:
1. I'm in Northern CAL and would like a shop name or someone who can professionally bypass the DVD safety features. Any news?
2. How do you get the NAV DVD to eject out of the under-passenger seat player? I figured that the dealer would charge me a mint for the update and wanted to scour the Internet for an update myself. Problem is that I can't find an eject button.
This is a great site and has provided me with a ton of valuable information in the past; including the boomy BASS fix for my stereo.
Thanks everyone
1. I bought the beast not running, now the motor will crank but no spark. my plan is to go thru the standard points, cap, rotor.... but my concern is the wiring. it appears that thru the years my beast has been "modified" from the original configuration. i've pieced it together best i can with a haynes manual but to no avail yet. there is also what appears to be a series of parts above the coil, i'm assuming voltage regulator and something else. any ideas on wading thru this mess to get spark? are there certain things that i should look for or a way to simplify it? the thing (for lack of a better term) above the coil is original and does not look good, what is the best option for replacement, toyota or aftermarket?
2. i had to drain the fuel tank and system, the previous owner had replaced fuel line with an air hose (a technique maybe, but i'll stick to fuel hose) does the pump need to be primed or should it draw from the tank?