But the current LC IS utilitarian in these markets. Understand, it is not the rock crawling abilities of a modified Jeep or D-90 that other countires buy up, but the ability to carry large loads of people/gear over vast distances of poorly "maintained" roads. Yes, it may mean solid front axle and diesel engines, but the 100 series can be bought like that in the rest of the world. All of those can also be up-classed to the luxury levels and V8 gas with IFS that we expect to be standard here. That's not a formula they are going to change. They have had two or more 'Cruiser models available at any time and some of them, like the 78 series, are already "retro". Further, the 78 exists side by side in the market with the 100 - both appealing to different market segments. The 90 series is esentially a 4Runner (but you can get it with diesel and two wheelbases) and the 100 is the top-of-the-line, and the most profitable. Tell me, what kind of company will discontinue their most profitable line when they already saturate the market for more utilitarian models?
Whatever you do, do not go to Australia and say what you are saying here. You may not make it out alive.
Just replaced the original rear brake pads on my 2000 LC at 45+K. The front pads still had about 35% left. I found this to be somewhat strange that the rear wore out faster than the front. Anyone else experience the same? Any idea why this would happen?
What rotation pattern does the TLC uses when rotating tires? I never rotate my spare and I am curios if I did it right, I did the cross pattern but there are so many ways and they don't mention pattern on all wheel drive vehicles anywhere I search."
The service manual and also the owners manual cover this, but without spare the rotation is same side front to rear and rear to front.
Not using the 5th or spare is where it gets a tad confusing. On a 96 TLC, the 5th or spare goes to the LR, the LR goes to RF, RF goes to RR, RR goes to LF, LF goes to spare. Pg 162, Rotating tires Toyota 1996 Owners Manual. However it states that the caveat's may vary according to your driving habits and road surface conditions. So strictly speaking if we EXTRAPOLATE using 4 tires according to the book, the REARS cross over to the fronts and the fronts go same side back to the REARS. Both my Toyota dealer and my Michelin seller go the way I described in the earlier post. And according to a lot of posts the silicon valley where I drive these TLC's have the poorest roads in the USA, actually it gives the third world a run for the money. My tire life approaches 75-95k, before I even consider new tires.
Now on mine, one vehicle uses 4 tire rotation and two other vehicles use 5 tire rotation.
I have a 2001 land cruiser that I love. I bought it for the peace of mind of being able to go anywhere, on any road, and in any conditions. I also was sold on its build quality. I test drove the sequoia and the feel was not as "tight" and the interior not as 'finished'. What are your impressions between these two vehicles? Are the off-roading capabilities equal? How about build quality?
Your impression is consistent with what I and my customers find. The obvious difference is cost. I put it to one of my customers this way: "Sir, a new Corolla costs about $14000, which is about the same cost difference between these two vehicles. Is the quality difference worth a Corolla to you?" It was.
Someone posted last year about a Retro-Landcruiser, and the Toyota website shows a pic of the concept car. Maybe whoever posted last year was in the know and might share better details than what is right here:
I am considering buying a 2002 LC with navigation. However, I have learned to my amazement, you cannot input any information while the vehicle is moving. Is there any way this feature can be overridden? The salesman didn't seem to know or wouldn't say. I have never seen this on any other system (i.e. BMW). I understand that Toyota might regard this as a safety feature but did they ever consider that a passenger could operate the system? If you have to pull over every time you wanted to input data, I might as well ask for directions and save $3,000.
Safety was a big issue for the NAV system issue. My Camry SE V6 does the same thing... requires one to stop (or slow to a crawl in traffic) to load in addresses.
I have no idea what other models or makes do, but I can tell you one thing... with the advent of more accidents due to cel phone usage, a data screen in a car while it's moving is a concern for me. How can anyone be certain that it IS a passenger? You can click the POI screens to find fuel, and close restaurants.. but nothing that requires specific attention to detail like typing in an address, street, etc.
I think it is a good thing. I am a cel phone user who uses a headset in one ear, but I find that I have to divert attention at times to number-press and I feel guilty that I am not paying 100% attention to the road when that happens.
Cars are big, heavy weapons when in the wrong hands. SUVs are ballistic missles under the same circumstances. If you are going down the freeway or highway in a 5100 lb car like a Landcruiser in the direct path of me and my kids, thank GOD you are not able to loan in an address while you are moving.
I was wondering what type of mileage owners of TLC's are getting. Toyota claims 13/16 (city/highway) in their brochures, is this fairly accurate? Should i expect much better or worse? I know someone with a new Sequoia that is getting around 11 mpg around town. I realize driving habits play a major role in MPG.
In the LX470 I'm averaging 16-17 mpg. That's a pretty good mix of city and highway and much better than I expected. Plus when I'm on the highway it's pretty much 65-75 mph. The past Cruiser model was in the 12-14 mpg range. Funny thing about this truck is that there really is minimal difference between city and highway driving in its mpg. If I drive it in city type of traffic I'm usually 15 mpg.
In my 2001 Land Cruiser we get between 14-17; and usually 15-16. The best I ever got was 17.5 towing a small trailer. It is definitely not a complete gas hog especially considering the full time 4wd.
I found an 95 80 with 95k on it from a dodge dealer near where I live. They are asking $13900 US. I checked it out and, although it is not a Gem, it seemed Ok, so I put down a deposit on it. They called me up today telling me how bad the car is and how costly it would be to repair if soemthing gos wrong. I get the feeling they found another buyer for it willing to pay more money.
Of course I don't know... but I hope that the TLC stays for ever and ever. I think it is the perfect car. It is big and spacious and still compact (is not huge like the expedition or the excursion). One can sleep comfortably inside with the two back rows folded. It is smooth and powerful while driving. The DVD based navigation system is a jewel; the best I have seen. Like somebody recently said this truck is a driving sofa. As a SUV it is very well designed and effective in all weather conditions and all types of terrain (it has incredible reviews). This truck has reached perfection and it will be difficult to improve. Of course new technologies and gadgets will be added in coming years, which will undoubtedly make it better. I would not like a larger one, the sequoia is to big for me (bigger is not always better). The only problem I see in the TLC, which is inherent in all V8s is the gas mileage (which in the TLC is not so bad for the type of engine, as compared to other V8s), but as long as the price of gas stays cheap (as compare to Europe) it is not an insurmountable problem.
Price seems awful low for retail; I figure it should be at least 5K more. You could use that 5K for any "surprises". When you have time someday call Toyota and ask what a new engine and/or trans for that thing would cost; then ask the same question for a Chevy Tahoe, Ford Explorer or your favorite SUV.
Has anyone experienced this problem? My wife reports that her '00 LC seemed to be blowing "very hot" air between the driver's seat and the center console. Also felt the hot air blowing in the middle seat footwell area. Noticed it while at the drive thru line at a fast food place. The blowing ceased when the climate control fan was turned off. No burning odor noted, climate control was set on the "vent" setting and the temperature was set at "cold".
95 LC with 113k miles The first shift into overdrive of the day takes quite a while, once it executes the first one all others go well???? Any thoughts?
Hi, I'm thinking about acquiring a '93 TLC with only 78kmi (the wacky owner is asking $18k but that is another issue ) What should I be looking out for in this model year? Thanks.
No known issues with the '93 fzj80. Keep in mind that if it's an early model, the AC system uses R12 instead of R134a. It was changed over in Spring '93, I believe.
The tranny will not shift into overdrive until the motor is warmed up.
I think you should be fine. I tow a 4200 pound boat with a Tundra and have no complaints. The LC is not rated for as much weight as the Tundra but that is due to the weight of the truck itself. My only suggestion is that you follow the manuals warning to leave the overdrive off when towing. Even with the transmission cooler, you put too much stress and heat on the transmission with that much weight when in overdrive. This applies to all half ton vehciles of all makes.
Just out of curiosity, what kind of boat are you hauling and where do you use it?
I have a 97 TLC and was told that my head gasket was leaking. Not bad, but any leak is bad. Does anyone have any knowledge with the process of fixing this, the cost, etc.. Was told by dealer the repair would be around $1500 and would take a couple days. Parts would be around $450 and the rest labor. Anything else worth looking at while engine is torn down? Any advice would be appreciated.
Wow! That's an expensive gasket . $450 in parts??? I would verify that the head gasket is leaking. Also check to see if the rad hoses and/or the radiator is blocked as it will contribute to head gasket failure on the 1fzfe.
Make sure they check the valve clearances while they're in there. Easy to do. I would go over the entire cooling system and replace what's needed, including hoses, t-stat, and the rad. Also, check the hose that is on the end of the pipe that goes from the block to the head. It's hard to find, but you can see it through the driver's side wheel wheel, above the starter. It's a beach to replace.
I took my third row seat out and had them sealed in military-spec plastic and placed them in storage. Should look brand new when I unseal them to sell the truck ten years from now.
Joeblow1..Thanks again for replying.I really value your opinion. Technician at dealership said that I was low on anti-freeze. They told me to keep an eye on it. He said that it's hard to say if this is something that needs to be done idmediatly because it may go now or that I maybe able to ride another year. I did however find the part,it's called a head gasket set on the internet for half the price the dealer charges, so thats a blessing. Dealer said that it'll take a couple days to do this and that it'll cost around $1500 that's including the part, but I'm going to get the part myself off the internet and that'll at least save me a little. Guy I talked with off the internet where I'm getting the part said that it's something that he wouldn't let just anyone do and that I needed to get someone that'll warranty their work. Is this a fair price for this? Is there another route that I can take?
Did the tech verify the head gasket failure with a leak down test? Don't go tearing into the motor just because you're low on anti-freeze. And even if the head gasket is compromised, find the reason why and fix it.
BTW, the dealer will probably not allow you to bring in parts for them to use. IMO if you're going to use the dealer, get the parts from them, but try to work with them on price. Otherwise they won't warrant their work.
I don't know what a fair price is as I've not had the pleasure of replacing the head gasket on my 80. Call around town and get other quotes. Contact Christo Slee and see what he says about replacing head gaskets on late model fzj80s. www.sleeoffroad.com
Bought a silver 98 TLC with 36k miles for $34000 last Sept and have been very pleased. Bought it from a dealer and it was off lease. No problems whatsoever and I have driven it to our hunting camp near Gaylord, Mi. through over 2 feet of snow. Other hunting members parked their fwd pickups and hiked in. It is a great ride on the interstate as well.
Enough accolades. I now have 44k on it and at last dealer oil change was told to schedule 45k maintenance visit. I am very leery of dealer scheduled maintenance. I know some things need to be done occasionally but would like some feedback from experienced owners. Thanks!
Since you bought it used, you probably don't have the maintenance book that came with it. You can go to www.toyota.com and look up the maintenance schedule. There are a few things that need done at 45K but the dealer will certainly recommend more. It is up to you to decide if the extra stuff is worth it. For the record, I tend to believe in doing more than the book, alghout probably not as much as the dealer does.
I realize that I am bombarding you with questions in a number of the forums; but since you are the resident expert on most things Toyota, please indulge me once more. Does the plastic cover that hides the intake manifold and other engine parts on the 98 to 02 LC also fit on the Sequoia? In my opinion, it give the LC's engine compartment a much more "finished" look. If it does, approximately how much does it cost? Also does the LC come with an under hood insulator and if so is there one available for the Sequoia? Does anybody know? Thanks again!
ps. I don't mean to hijack this forum, but LC's have not been available in Canada since 1996, and I do not feel inclined (or could afford) to spend $95,000 CDN on an LX470
I should start with an introduction since this is my first post to the list(which I was very happy to find). My name is Sean Reid and I run a motorcycle touring company in New England called Northeastern Motorcycle Tours. I'm considering buying a 1997 FJ80 to use as my personal vehicle as well as a second "chase" vehicle for a few of the tours each year.
The LC would be towing 1000lbs. (braked) for a few weeks each year and up to 2500 lbs. (braked) from time to time. Does the FJ80 engine have the power to maintain 60-65 uphill with a 2500 lb. trailer load? Maximum altitude for that towing would be 3000 feet but more of that pulling would be done at about 1000 feet. Do I need an FJ100 for this or will I be just fine with the FJ80? I know the newer series gains about 12hp and 55
ft./lbs. of torque (along with 200 lbs. in weight) but I don't know how that translates in real world use. Anecdotes would be great to read. It seems to me that buying a 1997 FJ80 with 50-60,000 miles for $23K or so is a lot of bang for the buck. I also prefer the style (and maybe the offroad ability?) of the FJ80. It sounds like I'd need to supercharge the FJ80 to get good towing power so that leads me to a few questions.
1. Without the supercharger, will a 1997 FJ80 be able to maintain 60-65 mph towing 2500 lbs. uphill at about 2000 feet altitude?
2. What is the cost of the Supercharger? What's the hp/torque gain? Can they be found used? Do I recall correctly that they cost about 1 mpg in
gas mileage?
3. In terms of power and gas mileage, would an FJ100 be preferable to an FJ80 plus supercharger? I prefer the FJ80 in many ways but maybe the newer model is worth the extra $$$ it would cost me. I imagine the FJ80 vs. FJ100 debate has created many posts and so I'll surf the archives to learn more but if anyone on this list has owned both I'd be interested in reading
observations on towing power and gas mileage.
I'm caught in an interesting place with full sized SUVs. I need the 5000 lb. towing capacity but my vehicles travel about 25,000 miles a year so every bit of mpg helps, especially in the summer when gas prices tend to spike. Our primary chase vehicle is a one-ton van with heavy duty everything and a 360 ci V8. It gets 12 mpg
but doesn't get driven much when we're not on tour. The cruiser would be my primary personal vehicle as well as a second chase vehicle. We've got lots of good dirt roads and trails here in southeastern Vermont.
I searched the archives for mpg info. but wondered if folks who've owned both an FJ-80 and FJ-100 could tell me what the real world MPG
difference is between the two. Obviously, different driving styles affect this, etc. but it seems like there might be a general difference of 2 mpg? or so between the two. Does that sound right? I live in the Green Mountains so my driving is a mix of dirt roads, two-laners and a some highway driving. I'm prepared to change a lot of brake pads.
I have no idea if the cover will fit on a Sequoia. I think the Sequoia lacks threaded holes to attach it with, but I am not sure. Further, the hood insulation pad is not compatible between the Cruiser and Sequoia.
The old I6 was a great engine and it certainly will have no problems towing 2500 pounds on flat land. I sold one to a customer who tows a 4000 pound bass boat with no problems. Steep hills however may present issues. I know it could do it, but it may be straining more than you are comfortable with. At $23K, you are right that it is a lot of bang for the buck and you may choose to live with the engine revving high for that.
I am looking at at 2002 TLC. Most of the ones I find have the navigation. I have seen a few without. For those who have it, is it worth it? Do you like the way it functions? Will it help with the resale?
It is a lot of money and am not sure if I want to pay that much for a toy. Thanks
I currently own, a 1991 FJ 80 and a 2000 UZJ100 and my recommendation to you is to purchase a used UZJ100 for the purposes you articulate. By the time you add a supercharger to the 80 you’ll be in the 100 series price range. The 100 gets better gas mileage, will have better resale value and accommodate people a little more comfortably than the 80.
The 80 is a better truck for deep woods, rock crawling, trail blazing work than the 100. The 100 is better for highway, suburban, towing & family hauling than the 80. Brakes were always a problem in the 80 and my only complaint with the 100 is the leather seats (I like cloth seats).
Having towed 5500# of boat, passengers & cargo on the long grade just outside of Greenfield, Mass on Rt 91 with the FJ80 I can tell you it was an effort to get to the top. I think I maxed out at 40 Mph. I haven’t repeated that “adventure” with the 100 but am confident I wouldn’t feel like The Little Engine That Could” – “I think I can , I think I can , I think I can ”
Whatever you decide welcome to the Land Cruiser fraternity, you’ll never look back.
bhuppert - I wonder if you would offer where you obtained your off-lease lc? It sounds like a reasonable price. Does anyone else know about off lease availability? I'm from northern michigan. Thanks in advance.
I bought mine last Sept. from Crown Toyota in Holland, MI. I dealt with Eric Garvelink and his phone number is 616-393-0400. The vehicle was in excellent condition and it came with a 6 month or 6000 mile warranty on major components. It has running boards, 3rd seats and roof rack and was $34k. I opted (probably foolishly) for the Toyota 100k extended warranty for $350. After looking for several months and then seeing the color (silver) that I wanted made the salesman's job a lot easier as it was difficult to curb my enthusiasm. Good luck.
Can someone recommend a good way of removing rust spots/streaks around and on front and read wheels "brake covers" (I hope I've described this part correctly).
I drive 2000LC and live in Midwest. Needless to say, there is a lot of salt on the road during winter time. I noticed a lot of 98-01 LC's have these surface rust spots near the callipers on the "round part" that is made of what looks to be an aluminum and looks like it can be open with a key. It probably stores an ABS or VSC mechanism inside. Please note: The callipers do not have rust spots on them.
Anyhow, these rust spots look really bad and I was wondering if there is a way to remove them, preferably without taking the wheels off. Perhaps there is a chemical solution someone is aware of. I realize, one has to be careful not to damage alloy wheels.
Please provide as much info as possible. Thanks very much in advance.
"AF" stands for auto frequency. When the station you are on gets weak, the radio seeks for another station. I am going from memory here, so I don't remember the details, but the description is in the 2002 Owners Guide.
I have the 2002 with Nav. I think it is worth it, especially for address when you have no idea how to get there. Sometimes the routing is a little strange, but it always gets me where I want to go. You do not always have to be stopped to enter information. You can set the destination as home, previous destinations or marked point while you are rolling. To enter a new destination address, you have to be "stopped", but I have never thought this was a great inconvenince.
I've been disabused of the notion that my stock '00 TLC has anything like a locker. So where can I learn more about conditions for use of the LCD...I do quite a bit of off-roading and want to fine tune skills.
I know that on one axle if a wheel grabs air, say teeter-totter, the torque goes to it and there's no power to its axle brother on the ground. Where does the LCD fit into this scenario while in low range?
Locking the center diff simply locks the front and rear driveshafts together. It's the equivalent of a part time setup in 4wd with the front hubs locked. However, yours may have the ABS braking thing in low range.
Comments
Whatever you do, do not go to Australia and say what you are saying here. You may not make it out alive.
HiC
What rotation pattern does the TLC uses when rotating tires? I never rotate my spare and I am curios if I did it right, I did the cross pattern but there are so many ways and they don't mention pattern on all wheel drive vehicles anywhere I search."
The service manual and also the owners manual cover this, but without spare the rotation is same side front to rear and rear to front.
Not using the 5th or spare is where it gets a tad confusing. On a 96 TLC, the 5th or spare goes to the LR, the LR goes to RF, RF goes to RR, RR goes to LF, LF goes to spare. Pg 162, Rotating tires Toyota 1996 Owners Manual. However it states that the caveat's may vary according to your driving habits and road surface conditions. So strictly speaking if we EXTRAPOLATE using 4 tires according to the book, the REARS cross over to the fronts and the fronts go same side back to the REARS. Both my Toyota dealer and my Michelin seller go the way I described in the earlier post. And according to a lot of posts the silicon valley where I drive these TLC's have the poorest roads in the USA, actually it gives the third world a run for the money. My tire life approaches 75-95k, before I even consider new tires.
Now on mine, one vehicle uses 4 tire rotation and two other vehicles use 5 tire rotation.
Are we ready to cha cha cha yet?
http://toyota.com/html/shop/look_ahead/conceptcar.html
I have no idea what other models or makes do, but I can tell you one thing... with the advent of more accidents due to cel phone usage, a data screen in a car while it's moving is a concern for me. How can anyone be certain that it IS a passenger? You can click the POI screens to find fuel, and close restaurants.. but nothing that requires specific attention to detail like typing in an address, street, etc.
I think it is a good thing. I am a cel phone user who uses a headset in one ear, but I find that I have to divert attention at times to number-press and I feel guilty that I am not paying 100% attention to the road when that happens.
Cars are big, heavy weapons when in the wrong hands. SUVs are ballistic missles under the same circumstances. If you are going down the freeway or highway in a 5100 lb car like a Landcruiser in the direct path of me and my kids, thank GOD you are not able to loan in an address while you are moving.
Toyota claims 13/16 (city/highway) in their brochures, is this fairly
accurate? Should i expect much better or worse? I know someone with
a new Sequoia that is getting around 11 mpg around town. I realize
driving habits play a major role in MPG.
live. They are asking $13900 US. I checked it out and, although it is
not a Gem, it seemed Ok, so I put down a deposit on it. They called
me up today telling me how bad the car is and how costly it would be
to repair if soemthing gos wrong. I get the feeling they found
another buyer for it willing to pay more money.
Any thoughts.
Nick
The first shift into overdrive of the day takes quite a while, once it executes the first one all others go well????
Any thoughts?
I'm thinking about acquiring a '93 TLC with only 78kmi (the wacky owner is asking $18k but that is another issue
What should I be looking out for in this model year?
Thanks.
JP
The tranny will not shift into overdrive until the motor is warmed up.
I have a 5500 lb boat/trailer - I know the vehicle is rated for 6500. Any thoughts??
Just out of curiosity, what kind of boat are you hauling and where do you use it?
Does anyone have any knowledge with the process of fixing this, the cost, etc..
Was told by dealer the repair would be around $1500 and would take a couple days. Parts would be around $450 and the rest labor. Anything else worth looking at while engine is torn down? Any advice would be appreciated.
Make sure they check the valve clearances while they're in there. Easy to do. I would go over the entire cooling system and replace what's needed, including hoses, t-stat, and the rad. Also, check the hose that is on the end of the pipe that goes from the block to the head. It's hard to find, but you can see it through the driver's side wheel wheel, above the starter. It's a beach to replace.
BTW, the dealer will probably not allow you to bring in parts for them to use. IMO if you're going to use the dealer, get the parts from them, but try to work with them on price. Otherwise they won't warrant their work.
I don't know what a fair price is as I've not had the pleasure of replacing the head gasket on my 80. Call around town and get other quotes. Contact Christo Slee and see what he says about replacing head gaskets on late model fzj80s. www.sleeoffroad.com
Enough accolades. I now have 44k on it and at last dealer oil change was told to schedule 45k maintenance visit. I am very leery of dealer scheduled maintenance. I know some things need to be done occasionally but would like some feedback from experienced owners. Thanks!
the resident expert on most things Toyota, please indulge me once more. Does the plastic
cover that hides the intake manifold and other engine parts on the 98 to 02 LC also fit on the
Sequoia? In my opinion, it give the LC's engine compartment a much more "finished" look. If it
does, approximately how much does it cost? Also does the LC come with an under hood insulator and if so is there one available for the Sequoia? Does anybody know? Thanks again!
ps. I don't mean to hijack this forum, but LC's have not been available in Canada since 1996, and I do not feel
inclined (or could afford) to spend $95,000 CDN on an LX470
The LC would be towing 1000lbs. (braked) for a few weeks each year and up to 2500 lbs. (braked) from time to time. Does the FJ80 engine have the power to maintain 60-65 uphill with a 2500 lb. trailer load? Maximum altitude for that towing would be 3000 feet but more of that pulling would be done at about 1000 feet. Do I need an FJ100 for this or will I be just fine with the FJ80? I know the newer series gains about 12hp and 55
ft./lbs. of torque (along with 200 lbs. in weight) but I don't know how that translates in real world use. Anecdotes would be great to read. It seems to me that buying a 1997 FJ80 with 50-60,000 miles for $23K or so is a lot of bang for the buck. I also prefer the style (and maybe the offroad ability?) of the FJ80. It sounds like I'd need to supercharge the FJ80 to get good towing power so that leads me to a few questions.
1. Without the supercharger, will a 1997 FJ80 be able to maintain 60-65 mph towing 2500 lbs. uphill at about 2000 feet altitude?
2. What is the cost of the Supercharger? What's the hp/torque gain? Can they be found used? Do I recall correctly that they cost about 1 mpg in
gas mileage?
3. In terms of power and gas mileage, would an FJ100 be preferable to an FJ80 plus supercharger? I prefer the FJ80 in many ways but maybe the newer model is worth the extra $$$ it would cost me. I imagine the FJ80 vs. FJ100 debate has created many posts and so I'll surf the archives to learn more but if anyone on this list has owned both I'd be interested in reading
observations on towing power and gas mileage.
I'm caught in an interesting place with full sized SUVs. I need the 5000 lb. towing capacity but my vehicles travel about 25,000 miles a year so every bit of mpg helps, especially in the summer when gas prices tend to spike. Our primary chase vehicle is a one-ton van with heavy duty everything and a 360 ci V8. It gets 12 mpg
but doesn't get driven much when we're not on tour. The cruiser would be my primary personal vehicle as well as a second chase vehicle. We've got lots of good dirt roads and trails here in southeastern Vermont.
I searched the archives for mpg info. but wondered if folks who've owned both an FJ-80 and FJ-100 could tell me what the real world MPG
difference is between the two. Obviously, different driving styles affect this, etc. but it seems like there might be a general difference of 2 mpg? or so between the two. Does that sound right? I live in the Green Mountains so my driving is a mix of dirt roads, two-laners and a some highway driving. I'm prepared to change a lot of brake pads.
Many thanks for any advice,
Sean Reid
Owner
Northeastern Motorcycle Tours
New England, Adirondacks and Canadian Maritimes
http://www.motorcycletours.com
802-463-9853
It is a lot of money and am not sure if I want to pay that much for a toy. Thanks
The 80 is a better truck for deep woods, rock crawling, trail blazing work than the 100. The 100 is better for highway, suburban, towing & family hauling than the 80. Brakes were always a problem in the 80 and my only complaint with the 100 is the leather seats (I like cloth seats).
Having towed 5500# of boat, passengers & cargo on the long grade just outside of Greenfield, Mass on Rt 91 with the FJ80 I can tell you it was an effort to get to the top. I think I maxed out at 40 Mph. I haven’t repeated that “adventure” with the 100 but am confident I wouldn’t feel like The Little Engine That Could” – “I think I can , I think I can , I think I can ”
Whatever you decide welcome to the Land Cruiser fraternity, you’ll never look back.
Thank you
I drive 2000LC and live in Midwest. Needless to say, there is a lot of salt on the road during winter time. I noticed a lot of 98-01 LC's have these surface rust spots near the callipers on the "round part" that is made of what looks to be an aluminum and looks like it can be open with a key. It probably stores an ABS or VSC mechanism inside. Please note: The callipers do not have rust spots on them.
Anyhow, these rust spots look really bad and I was wondering if there is a way to remove them, preferably without taking the wheels off. Perhaps there is a chemical solution someone is aware of. I realize, one has to be careful not to damage alloy wheels.
Please provide as much info as possible. Thanks very much in advance.
I would guess it stands for Audio Frequency which is in the range of 20 to 20,000 Hz.
tidester
Host
SUVs
I know that on one axle if a wheel grabs air, say teeter-totter, the torque goes to it and there's no power to its axle brother on the ground. Where does the LCD fit into this scenario while in low range?
Thanks for the great response. I will let you know how it goes. Take care.