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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • col_10022col_10022 Posts: 18
    I got quotes from about 5 different Honda dealers in the Washington DC area. These are the quotes I got and the impression I got.

    Bill Page Honda $28K+
    They offer a lifetime drivetrain warranty for as long as the car is titled in your name. The salesman goes to manager and has a heated discussion and comes back with a peice of paper with the number 28,000 circled in red. He slams the paper in front of you circles the number a few more times in case you didn't notice the number, put the pen in front of you and say" thats the best you're going to do, go ahead and sign" We walked out.
    I give them an F for low honesty and high prices.

    Fairfax Honda $26,600
    They basically kicked me out when I wouldn't buy at the Edmunds TMV. They were nice about it but they didn't want my business if I wanted to buy below the Edmunds TMV. They told me that Is I got it any cheaper than the TMV I should take it, they gave me a written quote that was good for 3 days if I promised to buy from them if noone could beat them by more than $200.
    I give them an A- for giving me a no haggle price that was reasonable fron the get go.

    Rosenthal Honda $25,500
    They had a bad reputation among the people I knew for dishonest sales tactics (they ask what sort of payment you are looking for, and if you have a trade-in, they negotiate the price of the trade-in before you buy the new car, then when you go out on your test drive, they claim to have sold your car while you were out on your test-drive). The prices were OK amnd the salesmen seemed OK but the sales managers were high pressure sales types that tried every trick in the book.
    I give them a C+ I give them high marks for price but low marks for honesty (something tells me they would have tried to screw me either in financing or other extras if i actually bought the car there).

    Leesburg Honda $25,400
    It was pretty much take it or leave it, they wouldn't give me a written quote for that price, so I left it (a written quote is useful for getting outside financing).
    I give them a B+ for refusing to give me a written quote I could take to the bank.

    Landmark Honda $25,156
    Nice honest up front staff. I bought the car there. They try to get you to buy a bunch of extras but its not overbearing and some of the things they try to sell you are actually useful (like the extended warranty, but don't pay their asking price, you can get cheaper and your insurance company likely has a similar program for half the cost). They sent a couple of people to drive the car to my house so I didn't have to leave my car in their lot.
    I give them an A, it would be an A+ but they don't have any frills at their dealership (maybe thats why the prices are so low).

    The processing fee was $299, the taxes were 3.18%, the tags were $41.50.

    As I was doing the paperwork for the car, I was talking to the finance guy about my buying experience and he was pretty frank when he told me that I shopped too hard. If I had taken the $26K quote from Fairfax Honda my payments would have been about $20 higher and i wold have avoided a week of aggravation. He was glad I did continue shopping but just something to think about when you try to squeeze the last couple of hundred dollars out of the dealers.

    I probably shopped harder than most people. In the end, I got a price that was $800 under invoice instead of $600 over invoice (I'm not even going to consider the Bill Page quote anything other than an attempt at trying to hook a sucker).

    Use the internet quote function on the edmunds site, internet departments seem to try and screw you less than the regular sales force that seems to think if you walk in the door, you won't walk out without a car. Get written quotes for financing purposes.
  • gwhatnowgwhatnow Posts: 10
    My experience with doc fees in NC, is that they are a set fee per individual dealership, not related to the price of the car purchased. It's just another chance to profit on the sale. There's no reason why 2 dealers 60 miles apart in the same state would have a $200-300 diffference in doc fees for the same make/model but so it goes. The most I've seen is either 400 or 500, I forget which, the least $90. I would ask about the doc fees up front, and include at least the incremental difference when you consider prices and negotiate.
  • mqqb1mqqb1 Posts: 29
    I was not able to get a price below wholesale but the info I got from CR helped me get a very good price in between wholesale and invoice. The key was the factory to dealer incentives that seem to fluctuate each month. If this incentive is high the wholesale price on CR may even be higher than what the dealer actually paid (depending on how up to date the CR info is). But I basically used the wholesale price as a place to begin negotiating up from. In the end I got a price in between wholesale and invoice. I'm sure the dealer made some money (which is fine) and I also benefited by getting a decent price that was below invoice.
  • mqqb1mqqb1 Posts: 29
    Are you all subtracting holdback from carsdirect prices? I have found that "invoice" prices on the Internet tend not to take in to account subtracting any holdback (typically 3% of MSRP).

    "No haggle" prices are always negotiable and do not seem to include subtracting holdback.

    Best formula I've seen is Invoice - holdback - consumer rebate (if applicable) - factory to dealer incentive + destination + TTL/other doc "fees" = best OTD price. And having several dealers compete for you business works very well as long as they are shooting straight (rather uncommon but more prevalent since the Internet leveled the playing field).

    mqqb
  • biker4biker4 Posts: 746
    6 years ago (multiple lifetimes in Internet age) Bill Page Honda had an Internet Dept. (when most dealers didn't even know what that meant) and had the best price ($1500 under sticker). I guess times change.

    I was under the impression that MD dealers in the DC area only charged $99 doc fee vs. a seemingly uniform $298 on the VA side.

    You didn't mention which model this was on.
  • mihinkmihink Posts: 36
    Thanks to everyone for their advice on the accord. About a month ago, I bought a 2005 Accord 4DR EX Auto Black for $20,500 OTD at Hendrick Honda in Woodbrige, VA.
    I know there are a lot of people in the DC area who are looking for the best deal, I think this it, I also got the 1.9% for 36mos. on top of the deal. I love the Accord, just wished it had a bit more power.
    I hope they are offering the same deals this month.
    By the way, VA sales tax is 3%. ;)
  • 0x42454e0x42454e Posts: 14
    If you got 1.9% from AHFC, I thought the deal started June 1st. I wasn't saying this to correct you, but to say that maybe other VA people can still get the same deal. Multiple dealers have told me that prices don't change during the month, not that I believe that.
  • 0x42454e0x42454e Posts: 14
    As for durability of a california catalytic converter, it should be no more or no less than using it inCalifornia and following the manufacturer guidelines on what Octane fuel to use. I would trust Honda would have performed enough quality checks on their catalytic converters so that they may last a reasonable amount of time/miles whether in California or elsewhere using the specified fuel.

    I verified this to be true with 2 mechanics, one of whom was a certified Honda mechanic. Not that I didn't trust you rajd, I was just supposed to call them anyway.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Sorry for the late reply, been away from the PC for a bit.

    By "contract" I meant a sales contract of "buyer's order". If you are travelling to get a car it can be nice to get them to fax you a copy of this (if they will) so you can make sure they are not sticking some other fees on their to ruin your deal.

    Dennis
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I was looking to see what they'd give me for my wife's VW. The car is in great shape, is 4 years old, loaded with options and has only 40K miles on it. When the sales person came back they only offered me $3K for it. After further discussion, they upped it to $4K. This was still $3K below what I was willing to accept

    Rule #1 of car trading is if you ask for a wholesale price on the new car they will only give you a wholesale price on your trade in. This is normally less than KBB or Edmunds will show.

    Rule #2 is if you trade them something they do not want (a VW at a Honda dealership, for example) then they will either wholesale it to some local used car lot or roll it through the auction. This will net them A LOT less then KBB or Edmunds shows for your trade in value.

    Best bet is to run your car in the local paper and sell it yourself. If if you get sale tax credit for trades where you live, there is probably a HUGE difference between the $4k they offered + tax savings and what the car would bring in a private sale.

    Dennis
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    When you put in the ZIP if "directs" your price quote to an area dealer for that car (if any) and reports what they have told carsdirect.com that they will sell that car for. If no dealer in your immediate area is willing to sell cheap (as is the case where I live) just put in the ZIP of a nearby large city and see what comes up. The difference between my home ZIP code and one 2 to 4 hour drive away is "lots" of money.

    Dennis
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    http://www.collegehillshonda.com/hondacare/warranty.htm

    Sells them pretty cheap. There are other places like Curry Honda that do as well. A Google on "HondaCare" should turn up a lot of choices.

    Dennis
  • jluedejluede Posts: 34
    mihink,

    You might be right about the best deal. I think you even got a better deal than I did in Houston. I got OTD at $21,400 but of course our 6.25% sales tax was a big chunk of the difference. Still, if your $20,500 included doc fees, title and license you must of got the price down to about $19,600 or so??? I think I've only seen one other person who had a deal close to yours in California but travel too the dealership was too much trouble so they ended up paying about $700 more at closer dealer.

    Can you break down your deal for us? There are so many variations state to state that its hard to compare somtimes. I know someone said in OK the OTD price didn't include TTL because the dealerships there do not handle the registration paperwork.

    Thanks,
    John
  • username2username2 Posts: 5
    I used CarsDirect and was contacted by the fleet manager at Brown Honda (Toledo, OH). A competing dealer (that I contacted directly) offered to beat the deal by $50. When his "out the door" price came through, it was much lower. He "forgot" to add the destination charge to his quote. Using CarsDirect was a very good experience for me. I received my offers by e-mail, and when I was satisfied that I was getting a complete quote, I then gave my phone number to arrange a test drive. I completed my purchase on Saturday (June 11):

    2005 Honda Accord LX Automatic Sedan
    $21,090.00 MSRP
    $18,485.00 Your Internet Price
    100.00 Ohio Document Fee
    7.25% Sales Tax
    15.00 Title Fees
    10.50 Ohio (30-Day Temp) Tag

    Invoice: $19,034
    CarsDirect Target Price: $19,134
    KBB New Car Blue Book Value: $19,403
    Edmunds TMV: $19,688

    I also financed at 1.9% for 36 months. The only negotiating was to have a $200 locate fee waived (the car was transferred from another dealer).

    Happy Hunting!
  • markinphxmarkinphx Posts: 37
    Take the ride, I did.

    You certainly will never regret burning your weekend to save $1,000.

    You will however in the future regret overpaying in Phoenix.

    Eventually it will eat you up, knowing you got soaked on the $300 doc fee, knowing that the dealer made a nice profit off of you, retaining his full holdback price on the deal.

    Take the ride man, you can do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • pavan_ivpavan_iv Posts: 6
    Excellent deal... why wouldnt Indiana dealer give me that price.. :( . probably I have to do some more search.

    What if I want to buy the car from VA.?? Or only VA residents can buy the car in VA.
  • I've been looking at a Honda Accord and I took it for a test drive yesterday.

    I'm going from a 1986 Hundai pony to something new som everything somes so wonderfully powered. (Actually about half the cars I tested were better then the pony, the others bombed. *cough*'97 camry*cough)

    Anyway when I took it out, it seemed to lurch a bit when the automatic gears changed. I don't know if it's my heavy foot or if something with that much power just does that.

    things I'd like to know:

    1. Is the lurching normal or a timing thing?
    2. There's a horrible tint in the back window. No bubbles or anything but it's pink. How hard is it to get tint off a window or should I go just get it retinted and they will remove it?
    3. Is $5900 Canadian a good price for a 1992 Accord? it's been in the lot for months and months now so I'm guessing something is wrong with it. I might be able to get away with giving them $3000 cash in hand.

    4. Should I get a warrenty on it? They offer a 30 day drive train warranty anyway but the extended is $600 and I figure if something goes wrong it was already broken before I buy the car.

    5. How easy is it to work on this car. ie. adding the K&N intake myself and possibly dropping in a turbo eventually.

    My comparisons to this car are as follows:
    1984 Volvo (I loved this car. Got it up to 120mph once)
    1986 Hyundai Pony (This car is simply put. FUN!)
    Test drove a 1992 Eagle Talon (Turbo was blown and the blue smoke coming out of every orifice was scary so I walked away from this deal)

    Tonight I'm going to test drive a Datsun 280z which is in perfect condition and only $5000.

    My goals for the car are:
    Do some modifications and learn to work on a car. Gages, exhause, intake, change the manafold put in a turbo.

    The mods I see locally are dirt cheap so I'm only really worried about the difficulty.

    If I get the Z, I'd feel bad touching it with anything neon because it is in perfect condition. 1987 280z. (I'll only get this if I love driving it from the get go, otherwise I'll get an accord.)

    I found another accord, 1990 for $3500 but the lot it's on is run by guys that like the $$$ in hand idea and I could probably walk away with the car for $2500 canadian.

    Is the 92 worth looking at?
  • I guess I should also say this is the first time I'm paying more then $500 for a car so it's kind of a big deal to me. I want to be able to keep the car I buy for another 5+ years without spending every dime on it or even going without a car for a week at a time.

    I noticed my last post was conveluted and didn't make much sense and I couldn't delete it. Here's what I want to do to "a" car.

    I have:
    2 12" Sony Xplode subs
    2 6x9 something speakers (150 watt rms each)
    1 Massive competition amp (Still yet to be hooked up. Supposed to be 1400 rms)

    I want to set up an onboard computer (I have plans for a laptop with dvd/wireless internet/lcd dash screen/projector (possible mod dunno yet)

    I'd like to try my hand at:
    (as I'm already somewhat experienced with putting a sound system into a crap car
    (volvo/pony)
    1. K&N intake kit
    2. Breaks kit
    3. Exhause (might be done already on the 1992)
    4. Add turbo
    5. Conversion from Automatic to Manual
    6. Lights lights lights (My pony blinks and lights up to the music on 3 different inputs and goes by the EQ I have set up. Right now I tend to get lauched at when I pull up with my booming hundai pony with the lights going. I have it tuned to the point where I'm able to beat a civic across an intersection. 1/4 mile HA right.

    7. Is it possible to convert the windows to electric? How much work $$$ would this be?

    I would love to turn my pony into a sleeper but it seems that everyones suggestion to upgrading my pony is to buy a new car. Sooo. I'm looking at a 1992 honda accord 4 banger and am wondering if the above mods are doable and if $5000 is too much for the car. All canadian of course.

    I looked at an 1992 Eagle talon and if the engine and tubro weren't toast, I'd be drinving that today for $5000.

    I'm looking at a 1987 Datsun 280z tonight but doubt I could do any of the above mods to it because it's almost in mint condition.

    If none of these cars seem worth it, what would you suggest?
    Thanks for any input.
  • calcal1calcal1 Posts: 2
    Just purchased one this weekend! I think that I got an amazing deal: $17,930 (includes destination charges, does not include TTL). I am very happy and grateful to those who have posted and made this experience so much easier!

    Out of curiousity, do you think that I could have gotten an even better price if I had waited? Today, I received an e-mail from a dealer whose quote request form I filled out (I am in Northern California). He quoted a price of $16,788 for a regular LX! Even plus the destination fee, this seems unrealistically low - any thoughts?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Dennis, What is sale tax credit?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    You can buy a car in any state you want and bring it back. Contact the governmental agency who handles titles and license or taxation and get them to tell you their rules. In some cases, you pay taxes at the source. In some cases, you will pay taxes back in your home state where you register the car for license tags. In some states like mine, Tennessee, I would pay taxes at the source and the difference, if your state has a bigger tax, in your home state when you title the car.
  • username2username2 Posts: 5
    Post the dealers name! At those prices people will drive from California to buy one. Unless, of course, the OTD price gets inflated with fees and extras such as paint protection, sound deadening, advertising, extended service contract, etc.
  • mihinkmihink Posts: 36
    John,
    I would be happy to...sorry for the late reply.

    OTD price : $20, 500
    Dest. price: $515 (which everybody pays)
    Dealer processing: $289 (I don't know if I payed that)
    VA sales tax (3.18%): $approx $600
    VA tags/title/license: $65

    That's it....just to let you know...I called the internet sales manager and gave him a quote from "Open Road Honda in NJ"...they always have a rock-bottom "buy it now" price on Ebaymotors. After he saw that..he gave me the deal.
    Of course, I don't know if such a deal as mine is to be had in the month of June, I heard from this forum that Honda dealers were getting us much as $900 back from Honda corporation if they met a sales goal.
    Hope this info was helpful. ;)
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    I would first like to say that this wbsite rocks!!!
    There is so much information shared here...it's great!
    In fact the info is so good here that when I went to a dealership and started talking to the Sales Manager about Holdback fees and Honda Incentives he thought I was in the business!!!

    One thing I do notice allot on this website is people always seems to want to separate the price of the car from the dest. charge, why I don't know?
    Dest. charge is a done deal....It is always figured into the price of the car...

    So in my opinion when people post the price they paid on the car it should be a given that dest. charge is included.
    And since taxes and other fees are so different around the country then those figures are not of any real value unless another member of this forum is requested specific info for that region.

    But again, this website will increase your knowledge, which in the end is going to say you those greenbacks!

    Rock On!
  • markkymarkky Posts: 7
    Mldj:

    Thx...unfortunately, I'm getting quotes that is way better than subtracting the 3% hold back, FTD etc. $21,480(including destination) is the lowest quote I've for the 2005 EXL 2.4 sedan. I still feel I can do better than that in LA ...what do you think? I know people had been quoted $20, 086 (including destination) else where on this forum. I feel I'm about $1000 more than I should settle for... let me know
  • jluedejluede Posts: 34
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that $20,086 was on an EX not and EX-L. I paid $19,900 +TTL for an EX which was seems to be holding up as a really good deal. Here is my understanding of the current EX-L situation. Obviously the $21,070 would be at cost so more than likely no one will sell for that unless they are making a nice chunk of change from other fees/accessories.

    MSRP + Dest on an EX-L Auto is $25,115
    Invoice + Dest = $22,651
    - 3% holdback = $21,970
    - FTD Incentives ($400 to $900) = $21,570 to $21,070

    Someone correct my math and/or logic if it is incorrect.
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    jluede,

    You have hit the nail on the head with your post!
    My numbers equal yours to the dollar!
    The word I received from a very good source (honda employee) is that the current incentives are up to about $750 for making 110% of your dealership unit numbers.
    And as the percentages goes down (and units sold) so goes the incentives!
    Basically what he told me was, the least amount any normal dealership should make on a car is about $450 (incentives).
    If the dealership is a smaller one, in a smaller market, then the $450 is more realistic...but if it is a volume dealer in a larger market then the $750 seems more likely...I think currently at the moment you could get the 3% holdback below invoice which should be around $753.00 (for the EX-L Sedan (auto) ).
    Since we are only in the middle of the month some dealerships are going to wait until the last week in June to see where they are at as far as number of units sold.
    If they are close to meeting that 110% of their goal they might be more aggressive on the pricing...but if they are not going to make it then I think they will stick with no price below invoice minus holdback.
    But it doesn't hurt to try though...the worst thay can say is no right?
    I think a dealership should make about $300 per car...seems reasonable to me...I mean they are in the business of making a profit...
    Trust me, they would be the first to take all of your money if you don't watch them close...but they should be allowed to make some money I guess.
    I have already had some dealers tell me straight up that they were not going to sell their cars at the price I wanted...told me to go somewhere else...they were nice about it...but at some point fair is fair...and eventually you either buy the car or ride the bus right?
    Just my two cents!!

    Car buyers unite!!!!
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    markky,

    your welcome...
    according to my numbers....if we are talking about the Accord Sedan, EX-L, Auto, and they are giving you the price of $21,480...that seems like a pretty good deal to me...you are already at an additional $418 dollars below Invoice minus 3% Holdback...and you well into the incentive part now.
    I don't think there is a car dealership in this world who is going to sell you that accord for $20,480? That's $2171 below invoice! The most they could go and break even would be $1653 below invoice. Thats 3% holdback plus $900 incentives (I think max incentives is only $750 right now though)...
    As you can see there is no way any dealership in this world is going to do that!
    Again, we are talking about the EX-L Auto....not the plain EX.
    The $20,086 is problaby the price of the EX...not the EX-L.....you may want to scroll back through these posts and double check....
    But if indeed you can get a EX-L Auto Sedan for $20,086 (including dest) please let us all know, because if that is the case then I am going to charter a bus to that dealership and pick up as many buyers as I can along the way to buy our accords there!!!!
    Happy Hunting!!! Let us know how it all works out!!!
  • carbuyer25carbuyer25 Posts: 20
    On Honda.com, it shows the Satin Silver Metallic Accord as having "Black" Interior. Honda Cars of Concord, NC's web site shows this car as having "Ivory" Interior. I thought that each exterior color only came with one interior color. After I choose my exterior color, do I then have a choice of interior colors too?
  • piturrapiturra Posts: 30
    The following I posted in the beginning of May ...

    2005 Honda Accord EXL 4 cyl. PZEV** AT EXL Sedan - MSRP: $25,265 (w/$515 Destination)
    -------
    Dealer's INV.. $22,271 (4cyl. PZEV AT)
    DEST............. $515
    --------------------------------
    Total......... $22,786.00** Invoice costs above from Edmunds.com
    **NOTE: All California 4 cyl. Honda's = PZEV certified
    =================

    Purchased on May 4th @ Anderson Honda in Palo Alto, CA:
    Price: .........$20,986.00 (w/DEST = $1,800 below INV)
    Tire Fee: ...........$8.75
    Doc. Fee: ..........$45.00
    8.5% tax: .......$1,735.06
    DMV (Est): ........$187.00
    ======================
    TOTAL: .........$22,961.81 OTD :) - for my dealer's experience, see my link @ Epinions.com below.

    IMHO - $1,500 or more below INV w/Dest, ... is a great deal!

    Phil
    Pic's of my 2005 Honda Accord 4 cyl. AT EXL PZEV Sedan
    My Epinions.com 2005 Honda Accord Review
  • mldj98mldj98 Posts: 378
    Piturra,

    Do you know where I can charter a bus?? :o)
    Will this dealership do these figures for all EX-L's?
    Oh...to live in California!!

    I stand corrected....the world just got smaller!!

    I'm out!
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Nice scores, congrats :-)

    The number will vary some from bureau to bureau but sometimes for car financing they use an "auto enhanced" score which gives more weight than normal to past car credit entries on your report. It could be your good car credit history boosted your number up.

    Dennis
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Dennis, What is sale tax credit?

    In some states (like mine) you get a tax break on the amount allowed for your trade in.

    Let us suppose you pay $20,000 for a new car with no trade and the tax rate is 7% - then you owe $1,400 in sales tax.

    If you have a trade in and they allow $10,000 for it, then you only owe tax on the difference ($20,000 - $10,000 = $10,000) or $700 in this case. So your "net" on the trade is $10,700. If you could reasonably expect $11,000 in a private sale, then most folks would not want the hassle for just a $300 savings. It would APPEAR the dealer offered $1,000 too little, but with the tax savings it only would cost $300 more to trade.

    The person posted they were offered $4,000 trade in the VW toward a new Accord, HERE that would save $280 in sales tax on the new car. So that would be like selling it for $4,280 without any ad fees or hassle. Now if the VW is worth $5,000 or $6,000 or more then hassle or not, selling it yourself is the way to go.

    Dennis
  • pavan_ivpavan_iv Posts: 6
    Purchased on May 4th Anderson Honda in Palo Alto, CA:
    Price: .........$20,986.00 (w/DEST = $1,800 below INV)
    Tire Fee: ...........$8.75
    Doc. Fee: ..........$45.00
    8.5% tax: .......$1,735.06
    DMV (Est): ........$187.00
    ======================
    TOTAL: .........$22,961.81 OTD - for my dealer's experience, see my link Epinions.com below.

    Why would some one sell it so cheap??? Now we need the trick :D
  • buyaccordbuyaccord Posts: 1
    Hi Calcal1,

    Thanks for your purchase experience. May I ask where did the quote of 16,788 come from?
  • akkijainakkijain Posts: 17
    Has anyone bought a 2005 Accord LX V6 price in New Jersey area? Can you please share your experience?
  • calcal1calcal1 Posts: 2
    Sure, it was from the internet sales dept. at larry hopkins honda. From the e-mail, it appears that that price probably does not include destination charges, so the real price would be 17,288. Let me know if you're actually able to get one for that price.

    Given this, does anyone else think that I got a good deal by paying $17,930 for my special edition lx?
  • jluedejluede Posts: 34
    That's how it works in Texas. In fact, I know a dealer (small town) that will actually run a private sale through as a trade. We find someone to buy the trade at our asking price then head up to the dealership. He gives us the asking price as trade on the new vehicle (we get the tax savings) and then he'll turn around and sell it to the other party for that price + the applicable TTL costs. Unfortunately its a GM dealership but its still nice to have friends like that. I'm not sure how many people he does that for but he tries hard for us because my father has bought so many vehicles from him in the past. He even gave me $2000 in trade on a non-running car when no one else would go over $800. And he didn't screw me on the Silverado I bought to replace it.
  • markkymarkky Posts: 7
    jluede, mldj98,piturra(phil), pavan_iv:

    Thank you guys for your great contribution. Phil, yes, you're right. I had mistakenly thought your price was $20,086 instead of the $21,086. you had stated a while back. I don't mind paying about $400 above your $21,086. Thank you so much y'all. I'm on my way to the dealership right now!
  • swordmanswordman Posts: 7
    Hi,
    I'm in the market for an 05 Accord EX-L 4dr sedan, 4cyl Automatic (no nav). I'm in the DC area. I've done some internet quotes from area honda dealers to get an idea of prices.

    this is the best price i've gotten in Maryland:

    base: $20,837
    proc: $49
    dest $515
    tags: $193
    md tax 1070.05 (5%)
    ___________________
    total: $22664.05

    what do you guys think? this is basically an internet quote with no negotiation. I'm thinking of buying this weekend.

    do you think i should negotiate for a better price? how much better do you think i can get. most other MD dealers except one aren't even close

    also it includes the pre-installed dealer options: mud spash guards, trunk tray and wheel locks.

    are there any pitfalls i should watch out for? this is my first time buying a car. we aren't going to finance and we have no trade in.

    thanks in advance for any advice you guys have to give.
  • piturrapiturra Posts: 30
    [QUOTE... by mldj98]
    Will this dealership do these figures for all EX-L's?
    [UnQUOTE]

    [QUOTE... by pavan_iv]
    Why would some one sell it so cheap??? Now we need the trick
    [UnQUOTE]

    No trick or special inside INFO , ... although reading dwynne (Dennis) Dealer Incentive's post, etc. explained why one of the email quotes I got was $1,700 below INV! So, Honda's car allowance and monthly incentives allowed my Dealer to work with me, since I was a serious buyer.

    If you read my original post #7576 on Message page 380 (use "Go To Msg #" option above), you'll fine that all I did was get a number of Dealer Quotes (six quotes via emails), using Edmond's 'Get Dealer Quotes' options and worked from there with initial phone discussions with Anderson's Internet Manager. Reading AndersonDirect Official email quote revealed their LOW PRICE GUARANTEE!

    So, the only way you can find out what the Dealer's internet price is, ... you must use Edmond's 'Get Dealer Quotes' option, ... and start gathering in your Quotes - ask for the OTD price if they don't give it too you and hope the latest incentives are still based on the % of sales!

    Phil
  • sdaccordsdaccord Posts: 2
    First, I'd like to thanks this forum and especially Denis, Markphx, Joon, Phil for your very valuable suggestions and postings.

    In short, I live in San Diego and have been in the market looking for an Accord LX Auto 4cyl 4dr sedan 05 (PZEV) since early May. Here's my info and my experience:

    - Got the car (silver) for $19400 OTD with 1.9% in 30 month loan from Poway Honda (break down: $17790 price + 7.75% tax + $45 doc fee + $175DMV).

    - Experience: i got several quotes and cheapest one is from NormReeves Honda in Tamecula (for $19616 OTD). This dealer did not negotiate the price. Spirit Honda, after several phone talks, give me $19400otd. I came there but a guy gave me %6.78 for 60 month loan and said to me "number does not matter" :mad: :P . I drove there with my friend and we were both pissed off. I then used Spirit Honda's price & emailed to PowayHonda internet director and got the priced matched, then emailed asking about the Hoda car loan.

    In short, here is my 2 cent: (1) read this forum by browsing back and force; (2) get quotes & get your credit score report; (3) use the phone or best of all negotiate via emails and get the deal done before going to the dealer. Going to dealers without good preparation taught me a lot :D .

    best regards & thanks.
  • paulo31paulo31 Posts: 5
    Hi

    I'm planning to buy one this week and the best price I could get is 26,270 + TTL (50 under invoice) with 3.9 financing on 60mos...

    is this a good deal? I know people are buying way below invoice... but the navigation option probably makes it a different market...

    what should I expect to pay?

    Thanks
  • http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=10000080&sid=a5E74A0eS330&refer=asia

    June 14 (Bloomberg) -- Honda Motor Co., Japan's third- biggest carmaker, said it plans ``substantial'' modifications to its Accord model in an effort to reverse a sales slump that may lead to the company's first U.S. sales decline in 12 years.

    ``We're planning some fairly major refreshes coming this year,'' John Mendel, Honda's U.S. sales chief, said in an interview today. The changes will address what customers view as the current Accord's shortcomings, including exterior styling and engine power, he said without elaborating. The latest Accord is about halfway through its four- to five-year model life.

    In its attempt to boost U.S. demand, Honda is trying to regain share in a market that has accounted for 43 percent of its global sales. Accord sedans and coupes, which made up 25 percent of Tokyo-based Honda's total U.S. sales so far in 2005, fell 9 percent to 143,304 this year through May. Honda's annual U.S. sales haven't fallen since 1993, the longest growth streak in the market.

    ``Accord is Honda's symbol in this market. They'll do what they have to to protect it,'' said Jim Sanfilippo, executive vice president of Automotive Marketing Consultants Inc. in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. ``It doesn't cost much to bend the sheet metal a little differently to improve the looks, so that's an easy option.''
  • dg63dg63 Posts: 1
    Have an offer for a 2005 EX V6 (non-nav) of $23,647 this includes destination but not TTL. This is $1000 below invoice. Is this reasonable in South Jersey? Given the certainty of major changes for the 2006 model year, and recent sales slump, should I push for lower?
  • bimbimbimbim Posts: 3
    Got in couple of weeks ago during the labor day weekend in the bay area.
  • bklynguybklynguy Posts: 275
    I wonder if Honda plans an earlier release for the MY06 Accord ? They may want to get this refreshed Accord out as soon as possible to "reverse the sales slump". Anyway, deals should get even better for 05s (especially in areas of the country where good deals are hard to come by).
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    I would tend to agree. If they are having to put large incentives on now to sell them (and they are) then word of the redesign gets out they will have to keep incentives or raise them or folks will just wait to see what the new car is like. If you can't get a deep discount on the old one, then just wait for the 06.

    Dennis
  • dmaizedmaize Posts: 7
    Bimbim,
    Which bay area dealer did you get it from? And what was the vehicle price before TTl? Did you get internet quotes or did you negotiate in person?

    Piturra,
    I just submitted online quote requests on edmunds.com but it only gave me four (I live in Alameda): Autowest, San Leandro, SF Honda, Marin. You said you got six. Is there another way to select other dealers or should I submit another quote request? I want your exact car, but in silver or blue. I drove the 4 and V6 today; the 6 was definitely quicker and smoother, but the 4 was very nice indeed, the $2K savings will come in handy! Many thanks for your detailed posts and pictures too!
  • biker4biker4 Posts: 746
    `It doesn't cost much to bend the sheet metal a little differently to improve the looks, so that's an easy option.''
    Actually it does take a fair bit of money to bend sheet metal differently - it's called retooling the whole assembly line. If it was that easy car makers would change cars all the time. What is easier to do is change the front and rear fascias (and other things that don't involve sheet metal), which is usually what happens during a normal mid model facelift.
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