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Comments
Congrats on your new ride.
No TTL is not included in that number. In Oklahoma TTL is paid for at the tag office. You pay no tax at the time of purchase. Some folks roll it into the loan. TTL will come in at $850.00 to $900.00. The paper tag is good for 30 days. But you have up to 60 days before you start getting penalties. Our local tag agent owner lives behind us. He drove by not 10 mins. after we got the car home. He had a big smile on his face. He will be oooo so glad to take our money.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Phil K.
This is off the topic, but wanted to know if someone here could help me. I just bought a new 2005 LX Accord and the steering wheel doesn't seem perfectly centered like I'm used to in other cars. It doesn't seem to affect the alignment of the car (I think). it seems the steering wheel is slightly to the right and not dead center. Is this normal or should I get it adjusted from the dealer or will they just ignore it? if i bring it in, will they screw with something else. I dont want any new headaches.
thanks in advance.
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I have also seen couple Accords with "blue" headlights, are those regular, xenon or aftermarket lights. I haven't seen the xenon as a option so I am a bit confused.
Thanks
- Anthony R.
- Anthony R.
22 CT
This program was rolled in by geographic area starting late last year and with the exception of the Eastern U.S. all regions are now eligible. Residents of Eastern U.S. states will be able to request their free reports starting 9/1/05. This is a great way to manage your credit information for mistakes, etc.
www.annualcreditreport.com
Good luck.
If one is short on time here's another way to go:
A credit score will be higher if the difference between the amount owed on a card and the credit limit on the card is sizable. No lender wants to see a card near max. Lenders also don't want to see recently closed accounts. Recently opened accounts don't look too good either as there is no payment history. The best bet in this situation (since it seems as though this person wants in on a new car soon) would be to pay down on whatever cards are now open to create that cushion between the amount owed and the limit. This will show that the lendee has available credit that does not get abused. Timely payments are key as well.
What is the Purpose of This Site?
This central site allows you to request a free credit file disclosure, commonly called a credit report, once every 12 months from each of the nationwide consumer credit reporting companies: Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. You can also request your report by phone or mail. Monitoring and periodically reviewing your credit report is an effective tool in fighting identity theft.
When are Free Annual Credit Reports available in my State?
Eligibility for an annual free credit report is determined by your state of residence based on the rollout schedule set by federal law. Look below to see when a free credit report becomes available in your state through this website.
Western States - 12/1/04
Midwestern States - 3/1/05
Southern States - 6/1/05
Eastern States and U.S. Territories - 9/1/05
If you want to purchase your credit report, the $9.95 is what equifax would charge you. However, recently there was a law that was passed that mandates credit reporting agencies to provide their information for free upon request once a year. The purpose is so that you can check the information they have on you and request changes, if there are innacuracies. It only works through the website I mentioned. TN (Southern State) should be available currently.
Hope this helps.
You should report the name of the dealer in this forum, so others don't go through the same bad experience. That is allowed, although you may not mention the salesperson's name. Also, next time a dealer mentions that they will beat any prices in the area, ask them to put that in writing.
Better luck next time.
Better luck next time
Thank you. The name of the dealer was Fletcher Jones.
They gave me 3.9 for 4 years right away
Picking it up today
05 accord ex 4 dr 5 speed....
PK
I pay cash for most things anymore or payoof the CC right away...I have a friend who has 30K on his CC...what was he thinking?
AHFC got me 3.9 @ 48 months.
waiting on my car now for pickup.
Thx to all.
Phil K.
___________
Phil, do yourself a favor and pull your most recent credit report, review it, make sure everything is ok, if not, fix it. Once that is done, start tackeling the legitimate reasons why your score is doen and start hitting those that are most easily cprrectible, such as the amount of balancy you owe on CCs. Also, consoliodate your debts onto one credit card and make the largest payments you can as often as you can. Really you should not be in the market to buy anything of the size of a new car, without having first paid off all yoru CC debt which is what I did. Do thsoe simple tasks and when all that is taken care of, you should have great scores. (depending on the problems, you should have this addressed with 6-18 months. GOOD LUCK!
- Anthony R.
22 CT
Our new accord had 72 miles on it. It was a driven transfer from a tulsa dealer to
the bartlesville dealer. About 55 miles from dealer to dealer plus a test drive or two. It all added up so we took it. Those could very well be driven transfer miles also. Just ask,, where they transfer miles, test drive miles or has it been a parade car or something like that. Push for a demo price if it concerns you.
My experience this far is to avoid giving out phone numbers. I find there is a lot less pressure, and much better prices when you manage to get them to send it via email. I actually had my phone disconnected because I am moving, and since that happened, I'm just getting better and better prices. I do worry that they're just giving me prices to get me in there though, we'll see.
I checked with riverside because I imagined you did your research, and it seemed like a good choice as such. They came in $600 lower than my lowest quote without any haggling at all. If you read this, Joon, how was your experience with their financing department? It looks like if they honor the quote, I will be buying from them as well, but I'm hoping to avoid a mess with their closers.
EDIT: by financing department, I meant the guys you deal with to pay for the car, not necessarily if you're financing the car.
Ben
Earlier today I had a very interesting conversation with one of those reps that work at one of those car buying services that are on the internet.
We were talking about the price of the accords and he started to talk about holdback fees and other incentives. I am not sure if he was suppose to tell me but I kind of got him to tell me the info because I told him I already knew about them.
Anyway, he told me that the incentives going on at the moment on the accords range from $450-$750 dollars depending on the number of unit sold in the month of June. If the dealership makes 110% of its goal for the month then they get the $750 per unit. And as the number of units sold goes down by percentages so does the incentives until they reach $450. So basically you can take 3% of MSRP for the holdback fee and add another $450-$750 for the incentive and come up with a good offer below invoice that you can get your new accord for. Now I assume that if a dealership gets close to the end of the month and is close to their goal for the number of units sold then the prices on the accord could drop even farther.
One thing I notice though in dealing with some dealerships is they do not like someone who seems to know all of the ins and outs of the car business and so they do not want to do business with you. So just keep this knowledge in your pocket at first and try and get that good price first and if you can't then that is when you start to pull out all of this knowledge. I would first start with the holdback fee info and see if that helps your price go lower, if not, then pull out the incentive info and see what happens. But be ready for that salesman to deny everything you are saying, I'm sure he will tell you that you are crazy...at that point...start to walk...you'll be amazed how fast they will run after you..
good luck!!!
The beauty of dealing with their internet sales department at Riverside Honda is that I dealt with one person and his assistant. Period. No sales manager involved, no closer/finance guy involved playing the good guy/bad guy act. He gave me an out-the-door price the first time I contacted them and stayed the course. No changes, no surprises, no pressure. Actually, when I tried to negotiate a better price than his original e-mail quote before finalizing my decision, the only "sweetener" I was able to get was a free cargo tray ($110 retail at the dealer, $78 through Handa Accessories).
Riverside Honda is part of an automotive group (Riverside Metro Auto Group) that sells five different brands. Their internet department sells all these brands, in addition to the Hondas. Which means that the internet sales person will not be as knowledgeable on Honda products as a Honda floor salesman. I did notice that during my car "walk-through" when I went to pick it up. But I was ok with that since I had already test driven the Accord at a different dealer and knew exactly what I wanted. In fact, the internet department is located at the next dealer (Volkswagen dealer). I joked to myself (but probably true) that the reason they were physically located outside of the Honda dealership is because the regular Honda salesmen didn't like these guys too much for taking sales away from them.
I don't know if you plan to put a deposit on your car to make sure they will hold it for you. If you do, ask them to send you a price sheet including VIN #. In my case, I did not have to do that. I checked their existing inventory on their website and they had four EX-4cyl AT in stock in the color I wanted (graphite pearl). I was already pre-approved for a bank loan but they offered me a better rate (3.9% for 60 months) through Honda Finance. I told them before my appointment that I would take their finance and the exact amount of the loan. So, when I got there the loan paperwork had already been typed. I arrived there, took a quick test drive and signed the paperwork. I was in and out of there in about an hour to an hour and half. the car wasn't too well cleaned (some plastics sticking out of the windshield) so I asked them to re-do. No big deal.
Having said all that, the main reason I picked Riverside Honda was because the person I sold my old car to lives about five minutes from there and thus was very convenient for me. Also, they had the color I wanted in stock. Price wise you can probably get similar deals in many dealers throughout So.Cal., including Norm Reeves and Spirit Honda. Whatever dealer you end up going with, get a written price (including destination and doc. fee, possibly an OTD price) and negotiate as much of the details (color, options, financing, trade-in, etc.) before you get there.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
It may be fine, but then again it may end-up being a cost later on that offsets your purchase savings. A check with a good Honda mechanic might be worth the effort. Finding a non-ULEV California car would be even better!
Good luck with your purchase. I'm looking at the same model.
It kind of sucks because the friend I was visiting in LA is about to cancel on me. He's another actor who actually got cast in his first big role, starts shooting the day I had planned to come out there. So now rental car and hotel is something to consider... I can't even calculate those odds, he's been doing nothing for so long. Is there an airport closer than LAX to this place, time-wise? I have no clue how the traffic is out there.
pkevinb, this is something I was considering. I just fired off an email about the emissions thing (whether it's already equiped or not). I have a mechanic near my mother's home who I am going to ask as well. He has been my family mechanic as long as I can remember. But honestly, I had kind of forgotten it about it, so I'm glad you mentioned it.
I'll keep you updated.
As far as airports close to Riverside, the nearest one is Ontario (about 30 miles from Riverside). I think Southwest Airlines has service between Phoenix and Ontario. A while back you could get a one way ticket for $59, but I think their regular one way fare is about $125. If you take a shuttle service (Super Shuttle, etc.) they will charge you about $25. If you leave PHX early enough, you probably wouldn't need to stay in a hotel.
But I understand your concern whether the savings is worth the trip or not. I was in the same boat. I could have saved an extra $700 by flying to the the Bay Area, but decided to buy in Riverside and save only $1,000 (instead of $1,700). So, I guess it is different for each person. I'm not recommending for or against.
Good luck.
I'll probably fly to Phoenix, rent a car, move into my place, drive out to riverside, buy car, return rental, drive back. My other option is about 4 hours round trip to Tucsan, and pay about $900 more to a not-so-trusted dealer.
It's about a 5 hour drive each way to Riverside, according to mapquest. I figure I'm losing two tanks worth of gas in cost, and I can split the driving with my girlfriend. I feel a little ridiculous driving 10 hours total to save the money, but I think I would hate myself later if I didn't do it.
I'm calling a trusted Honda mechanic first thing Monday morning to ask about the PZEV/ULEV stuff. My family mechanic said to ask him, but he is on vacation until then, so I'll report back on that for anyone interested.
OTD price was 24,900. I was wondering if its a good deal. Please help me out.
So my advice, check carsdirect, calculate tax and title yourself, estimate a doc. fee (if it isnt regulated) and see what you come out with. You can read his thread a couple pages back, I found it helpful.
I personally have found dealing with the internet departments via email has already gotten my quotes down quite a bit. It seems the internet department likes to steal the sales away from the regular fleet/managers. So I advise checking the surround honda dealers and see what they can do.
In New York, where I am now, the Accords are selling about $400 above invoice, but in the Southwest, where I plan to buy, it's about $1600 below. That's a $2000 difference for the mathematically uninclined.
I've been recommending people buy the car in the West, and ship it back East. My mechanic said its a flat $600 fee to ship (I haven't verified that though). So this may or may not be economically sound. My mechanic also said the cars of different regions are equiped with different coolant systems, so you would have to check that out as well.
In short, 24,900 sounds a little high to me (unless it's V6), but relative to my quotes in New York, that would be a decent price.
The 2006 Accord will be introduced in about 2 months, so we're talking about year-end pricing now.
Tint I can understand if you really think you need that (can you see out of those things at night?), but "noise insulation?" Please, I can't stop laughing about that obvious dealer price packing nonsense.
The Accord is quiet enough and if you think you need "noise insulation" you should get a Camry (quiet and mushy) or turn the radio up (still laughing about the "noise insulation")...........Richard
I told the salesman that I wanted the invoice price, w/ splash guard and cargo net "free of charge." But as we all know that there aren't anything for free - I'm sure they are getting something back from the dealer holdback, minus the giveaways.
Should I have dealt more aggressively (i.e. better pricing) or was my deal fair?
Don't want to lose sleep over this since I expected 16k-17k range, (and over a low-end model) but certainly don't want to find out way later that I was an idiot for not asking for more.
May be I can ask for extra trunk tray and finish the deal..............brian
Ben, one caveat - I would think twice about buying a California car for primary use outside the state. Many cars have CA-specific emissions equipment, such as the Accord with the ULEV option
You are wrong. The only variant accross states is the Octane rating and this is because of altitude and not some laws. You can always choose the Octane you want to place in your car. As for the additives or detergents that individual companies [shell, chevron etc], these are nothing but marketing hype to distinguish their fuels within themselves and introduce the "stickiness" factor so that they can charge a bit more. If there were variations in fuel accross states, then it would be specified by the body that overlooks the specifications in fuels.
California strict emission control governs the emission of fuels for individual cars and holds Auto manufacturers responsible for compliance. The way these manufacturers comply is by using a more expensive and complicated catalytic converter which burns most of the remaining unburnt fuel in the exhaust.
So if you buy a car from California, you get a fancy catalytic converter in addition [$400 value? give or take]. So you will be doing a minor favor to your state residents who may breathe cleaner air where your lobby influenced lawmakers have dragged their feet [in relation to California] on enforcing stricter emission control on auto manufacturers.
As for durability of a california catalytic converter, it should be no more or no less than using it in California and following the manufacturer guidelines on what Octane fuel to use. I would trust Honda would have performed enough quality checks on their catalytic converters so that they may last a reasonable amount of time/miles whether in California or elsewhere using the specified fuel [ by Octane].
One question - your post mentions taking the CarsDirect price and then estimating a doc. fee (in addition to tax and title). I was under the impression that the CarsDirect "no-haggle price" included doc. fees. I thought the only additional fees would be Tax, Title, and License Plate.
Has anyone used CarsDirect and can confirm what things would get added on to the "no-haggle price" that comes up?
This is from the website:
CarsDirect.com Price is the price that YOU PAY (before taxes and other customary fees and charges) for the purchase of a car. Leased vehicles may have a different acquisition price.
I counted title, and doc. as customary fees. Some states have some weird taxes too, or so I've been informed. I assumed none of these were included, I was working that the carsdirect price was the price you were "agreeing to" with the "dealer."
Customer Service would not tell me what the fee would be in NC. One rep. said that it could range anywhere from about $45 to about $300 depending on the state.
Another rep. told me that it was estimated at 10% of the value of the car (I sure hope not - that would be $1,900 on an Accord).
Could not get a straight answer on what the maximum they charge in North Carolina is. NC does not restrict these fees like CA and NY. I was told that I could not find out the fee unless I applied online and a sales rep would explain all fees to me after the car was located.
Based on this information (or rather, the lack of it), I don't think I would want to do business with CD. As far as a comparison point to internet quotes, I'm going to try the CarsDirect price + $300 estimated doc. fee plus tax, tag, and title.
Has anyone actually used CarsDirect and have better information on what doc. fees or other "hidden" fees they charge?
Thanks