Now what makes you so special that they would sell you this car for $250 below invoice when they can sell it to the next person for more. I have a feeling you will drive 2 hours to their place so they can just get you in the door.
The price is not necessarily "to good to be true," but you can take steps to save yourself a wasted trip. When I bought an '05 Odyssey last year, from a distant dealer, he faxed me the sales order form beforehand clearly showing the OTD price. Once I had that in hand, I headed over (5 hours away) and bought the van, price as promised.
There are business reasons why a Honda dealer would sell a vehicle below invoice (e.g., they still can make a profit with incentives from Honda, they want to increase sales and decrease inventory which in turn can increase their vehicle allocation, etc.), so that does not, by itself, automatically make a "below invoice" quote not true.
If you don't have something in writing before you take the two hour trip, though, it would seem to me that you are at risk . . . .
"There are business reasons why a Honda dealer would sell a vehicle below invoice (e.g., they still can make a profit with incentives from Honda, they want to increase sales and decrease inventory which in turn can increase their vehicle allocation, etc.), so that does not, by itself, automatically make a "below invoice" quote not true."
Well of course on a 2005 I can understand but this person is talking about a 2006 which has more of a demand. If this were true it would be somewhat comparable to a price of a 2005.
"If you don't have something in writing before you take the two hour trip, though, it would seem to me that you are at risk . . . ."
Even if they had something in writting does not mean the dealer will have to honor it legaly. Most peopel seam to think if they get the price in "writting" that that is good as gold... not true what it boils down to is what is on the actual sales contract and even that can change unless it is signed by the buyer.
jb you have some very good points. I tend to think this may be too good to be true for the reasons you bring up too. Most likely I won't be going up there, but I was just curious as to what everyone in this form thought about it. As far as my pervious quote of 25,206 does that sound more reasonible? Thanks again for your help
The deal with Open Road Quote (I also got a quote from them and called before I got on the road to Jersey from MD).
- They are NOT OTD quotes! - They don't include distination fee - They don't include dealer prep fees - They don't include tax, tag, titile & out-of-state fees
I got this information STRAIGHT from one of their salesperson.
25,200 sounds more reasonable because it is slightly more than invoice (2006 model) and it gives you and the dealer some possible room to play with. glhendr1 made a good observation that Open Road quotes do not include lots of fees so at the end of the day (Out the door) you may be getting the car about the same price localy. I just wanted you to be aware and save a few miles and hours driving.
I replied a few minutes ago on the Open Road quote; I would advise not making the drive.
I recently purchased a 2006 Honda Accord, EX 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5A) from Ken Dixon Honda in Waldorf, MD. I neg. with a internet saleperson for about two weeks before purchasing the car. I also called and chatted online with 3 or 4 other dealers in the area after getting my price from Ken Dixon Honda. Several other salesperson said they could beat my deal, but no-one (I mean No-One) would give it to me in writing. I visited one dealership, who promised to beat the deal, and they wasted my time - told me after a hour of waiting that they couldn't do it; come to find out, they didn't even have the car available that I wanted (another lie).
Anyway, Ken Dixon Honda honored their internet quote, which was a OTD price and located the car and deliveried it on the day/hour that I wanted to pick it up.
My price for the car: $22,950 OTD
The price was about $500 over invoice, which included the MD tax, 5%, tag, title, distination & process fees.
It was a gentleman's agreement. When we make settlement, I will be able to show you the breakdown. I would venture a guess and say that I will be taxed on $27,500. I was just at the NJ DMV on Saturday and I asked them the costs for a new car. For an Accord , registration, and tags will be 43.50/yr. Multiply that by four times because of the accelerated law that states when purchasing a new vehicle after 10/04, the registration, when secured from a dealer, will be good for four years. The dealers don't tell you that. So that comes to $174. Add to that, $20 for title transfer. I am not sure what my dealer will charge for processing (dealer prep), and destination. The tax alone on 27,500 is $1650. That puts us in the ballpark of $30,000.
Any idea what is the AHFC Interest rate offerings for financing new 2006 Honda Accord EX V6 with Leather and Navigation fora period of 5Yrs/ 60 Months.
I have a very good credit of 730+ score (checked with all 3 beaureus) and no deliquency and no inquiries in the last 6 months for any kind of credit or cards etc...Let's say above good credit.
Open Road is in my slick dealer category. I just got an email from them stating that THEY had the car I was looking for. I already knew that they didn't. They were going to get me up there to say that oh... You wanted a 2006? We have the 2005.
I have been dealing will numerous salesmen (women) these past few weeks. I can say that maybe three out of twenty were honest and genuinely helpful. There's the cocky category: Thank ME for giving YOU a miserable deal . The fast-talking, wheeler dealer category: I arranged to get it for you; it will be here tomorrow, so I need a deposit. And then there's the good guy category. I don't have it...I'll try to get it...What was your best offer...I'll try to beat it. I finally found a good guy. He's at Martin Honda in Newark, DE. If you live near Philly, go thru the internet and use a Wilmington zip code. At least that's what I did. I was tired of the malarchy from the nearby dealers!
AHFC: 5.9% ten days ago. If you think the negotiating stops when you make the deal, you're mistaken. There is plenty of negotiating to be done with the finance rate. I called State Farm. Top tier is 5.2%, but you have to be a customer. There are rates out there lower than 5.9% Go into the dealership and say that you'll be arranging your own financing. They probably will offer you a sweeter, if not comparable deal.
To add to what you just said about telling them you "will be" arranging your own financing, actually go and get approved for the loan first. I'm sure that I would not have gotten AHFC's best if they thought that I was just bluffing. They came in with a better offer than what I knew was a good offer from a Credit Union. I think pre-approval helps with the negotiation process in the deal. Less tricky "suggestions" coming at you. Just keep saying, "I'll have my own money".
Hey Guys I just wanted to say thanks for the advise on open road. I had a feeling that is wasn't the real deal. Very good points from everyone who replied to my question. Thanks again!
Is it a good idea to leave a deposit on a car that isn't on the lot? I've had some people tell me it's not a big deal b/c u can always cancel payment if u put it on your credit card, and i've had people tell me that in no way that you shold leave anything down unless the car u want is on the lot. I explained to one dealer my concerns of leaving a deposit, and he assured me that there would be no problems in getting the car I wanted and that I didn't have to worry about anything, and that it's a normal process. I'l like to know what u guys think. Thanks again for your help! kevin
Well, I posted to this forum in May about getting a great price of $17,090 for a 2005 Honda Accord LX 5-speed MT (manual). I bought it from Russ Darrow Honda in Milwaukee. I loved it! Sadly this large Cadillac did not and my baby was totalled in an accident last Sunday. She protected me very well with both the side air bag and the side curtain deploying. I barely felt I'd been hit and the bad guy that ran the light had to be rushed away in an ambulance with broken bones. Anyway, I digress.
I'm pretty sure that the 2005 price is reasonable, but what about the others? I really love the new rear end so I'm leaning towards the 2006 but I can't shake that the 2005 is a good price. But then if I get a 2006 I think I'm a fool if I don't pay $600 extra for alloys, 6-disc changer, upgraded interior trim, audio controls on the streering wheel, 4-wheel discs and EBD. Thoughts? I have to decide tomorrow!
I have left deposits down before on vehicles and have never had any problems.... Just make sure that it is in writing and also make sure the document states that the deposit is fully refundable if they cannot deliver the car you want... By leaving the deposit it just shows the dealership that you are serious about buying that car....if they have to do a dealer swap (no additional charge of course) they want to make sure you buy the car... I put a deposit down on another model in the Honda line because they said it was coming from the factory and should arrive by a specific date....it did not...so I got my deposit back and bought it at another dealership who had just received one in that we wanted....bottom line....get it in writing...it protects you and them....if you do leave a deposit...put it on a credit card....gives you even more protection....and most of the time the dealer doesn't even run the transaction... good luck....
I would go for the 2006 LX SE. I had a 2003 LX MT and it was a great car, but the SE additions are exactly what I wanted. The price difference to get the SE is very reasonable. The 2006 does look better and the difference in price would come back to you if you sell it in the next few years. The price you were quoted for the 2006 is under invoice so that looks pretty good, too.
I second that - would go for the '06 LX SE. The additions are well worth it, and the newer year would give you a better resale value. Great prices!
Thought I had come out well for my '05 LX at $17,550 (incl. the $50 doc fee + $33.33 destination charge) at Hopkins Honda in Minneapolis but it looks like you have me beat. As I'm moving to NY and already have residence there, I had to pay only 4% in taxes, and the registration was much cheaper than in MN, saving almost $700 in tax & registration.
Good to know that the Accord saved your hide. Good luck with the new car.
I third it. get the '06 SE. If you don't keep it a long time, you should get your money back on resale, plus you get to look at the new butt every day, and the '06 does have some other worthwhile features. For $600, the SE offers a lot of extras.
If you plan to keep it forever, amortizing the cost of the SE makes it an easy decision.
Hi everyone I am new to the forum and I want everyone to know I really appreciate this forum.
Here is the deal I have worked out.
2005 Silver EX-L with XM Manual Tran & added protection package sedan OTD is 23000 so it brings actual sale price to about 211XX. I live in Southern Cal and tax here is about 7.75%
What do you guys think? Should I play with this more or walk away?
If you're buying a car loaded with all the electronic gadgets, do you think it is wise to go for the extended warranty? We're getting our own financing. How can the dealership offer extras to us if we're coming in with a check? I realize that there's an ebalorate statistical theorm that is applied to way out the risk. I realize that there's a better chance that we won't need the extra coverage. Has anybody ever figured out the cost of this added coverage over, say, 60 months at 5.2%? Just curious.
I was told never to leave a deposit but did when I ordered my 05 Corvette. I had no problems at all. I put the deposit on my credit card and wouldn't have done it any other way...you can always have your credit card company reverse the charges if the deal goes bad. I've also been tempted, and threaten by several dealerships to leave a deposit for other cars. I'm told to never leave a check or cash for any car; if its meant for you to have it, it'll be there when you return or make up your mind that that's what you want.
Definitely shouldn't be a problem as long as your in agreement with the deal. I had to put down 500 dollars for the car I wanted.I don't blame them to ask for a deposit so they don't waste their time getting something you might not decide to buy. The car I wanted was over 100 miles away but I was very picky on color and options (also it was a 2005) so that was my fault. I would put it on a credit card (easy to cancel and show proof) and would put an addendum on the contract that the deposit is 100% refundable if you are not satisfied with the car. My father who is a lawyer had told me to write that in case of any dispute. Although that wasn't necessary since the car was exactly as promised.
The dealer is very sneaky. The hard-negotiated price does not include destination charge ($550), and the doc fee is $298. DMV/tax extra of course. If you do need to buy from them, be prepared. Ask them to show you all the fee up front, and cut the doc fee by half (at least). Decline the window eching also. The gas tank is 3/4 full.
A friend of mine bought a car from them and unhappy. The punishment would be never go back for any service, so they couldn't make a dime again.
I'm picking up my 2006 accord EX-L with navi in a 4 cyl 5 speed. Was quoted a price of 24,800 including the rear wing spoiler (includes desination) I'm going to be leasing, what other costs can I expect to get thrown at me? thanks!
Here in San Antonio, 2006 Accord EX Sedan 4dr (2.4L 4 cyl 5A) - MSRP of $23,800, your price of $21,940 +TTL = OTD of $23,541 (tax of 6.25%). No haggle, 1 price dealer... Compares VERY favorably with Edmunds TMV of $23,608 (not sure that TMV figure is totally accurate, maybe due to small sample?)
Look at this way, the '06 is technically a year newer so at resale time that will definitely be in your favor. For under $600, I think going for the SE is a no-brainer. The alloys look great and the upgraded stereo, etc. are well worth it.
The prices you listed sound very fair as long as they don't try to throw in any other charges other than TTL.
Good luck and glad your '05 protected you so well!
Thanks a bunch to all the fellas at this great forum. Its a truly great tool for car buyers. Nobody who is into car buying should miss this. Took delivery of the 2006 EX V6 4 dr sedan from Bayridge Honda in Brooklyn yesterday. (First time new car buyer!!!) Breakdown: Base: 24568 Destination: 550 Tax (NJ 6%): 1507 Dealer processing fee: 45 NJ DMV fee: 275 OTD: $27 K Actually walked out once because I thought they were overcharging me for NJ DMV fee (around 200 if you do it yourself), but then I thought it is not worth wasting my day off on $100. Overall pretty smooth experience. They are 10 minutes from my home, called them and made an appointment for a test drive. They didn't have a 06 so I just drove the 05 (had already made up my mind about buying 06). Had taken internet quotes from about 10 dealers in the vicinity. Open Road had 24568 (but 300 for processing fee). David Michael's Honda had similar with 139 processing fee. Both had written quotes. By the way don't even go near Lakewood Honda in NJ. Terrible people. I had gone there with my wife and kid while visiting friends and the guy there wouldn't even let me test drive the car. He told me what was I doing if I wasn't going to buy the car the same day; well, I laughed and left. Hardly any negotiation with Bayridge Honda, called them after I got all the quotes, asked them to beat it or match it, they agreed to match it (I forwarded emails with quotes to them). Went to the dealership who broke down the purchase order for me, I paid $100 deposit and told them I would get them a certified check. Signed the purchase order and faxed it to my bank. After I got the check I just faxed over a copy of my license and got my insurance company to fax over a binder to the dealer. Had to wait an hour or so while they got the car ready and of course the finance guy wanted to sell me gap insurance, extended warranty, and lo jack. I didn't want any and he didn't push it. By the way transmission for this car is still built in Japan, everything else is in Ohio (final assembly point). Hope that't not something which would impact Honda's reputation for reliability. One final question for all the guy out there. Is gap insurance worth the money? Is is usual practice for everybody who finances a car to buy it? PT.
How much did you borrow relative to the price of the car? Gap insurance only makes up the difference between the replacement value and loan payoff, so it usually isn't a large amount of money that you are insuring... If the amount they are charging for GAP insurance is more than a couple of hundred dollars, it probably isn't a good deal...
If you borrowed the entire $27K, then my answer might be different...
Thanks for the reply. I financed 25K. So I guess I might as well pay a couple of hundred for the gap insurance. I got this website www.gap-insurance.com and it offers gap at $299 for all vehicles. Any input from anybody who bought gap before? PT.
Definitely a no brainer. The stereo changed from a 2005 to a 2006? How did the stereo change? I currently have a 05 EXV6. The stereo isn't too powerful.
godeacs - If I'm reading it right, looks like you paid just about $1000 over the dealer invoice (including the destination charge), $1371 tax, and then about $230 for title and license, for your 06 EX 4dr 4cyl Auto.
Yep, you got the math right. But haven't bought it - a bit out of our price range. Straight forward dealing with these guys though - not the usual game playing and pressure tactics.
Hey guys Thanks to everyone's good avdice on if I should put a deposit down for my new 06 accord coupe v6 auto I went to the dealership yesterday to put down my deposit. He showed me the form which showed the final price we agreed to. The form that stated a 100% refund if the car wasn't delivered the way I wanted, and I Put it on my credit card. I even had him write down the manufacturers code just to be on the safe side. I feel confident enough that things should be ok. Is there anything else I was missing? Thanks for your help once again! kevin
SEPA: I have the quote price in front of me, as I printed it out from the computer. It's from Open Rode Honda in North Central NJ. I'm moving to NJ in two weeks. The price is $24,068 + $550.00 (destination)=$24,618 . I'm heading to Sloane Honda this week, and see if they will match the price. The best price that I received from Sloane so far is $25,150, which includes destination. That was before the quote from Open Road. I also like the Acura TL, and I received a price from an Acura dealer on Old York Rd in Jenkintown of $600 over invoice.
Previously owned Civics and Accords. I'm in a market for a new Honda coupe (which I'll need within 2 months). That narrows it down to Accord (4 cyl.) LX or Civic LX.
Test drove both (auto). Civic was nice but liked the Accord better. Civic struggle a bit trying to merge onto the highway. Didn't test drove the manual (though I am considering them as well).
How much should I expect to pay for the '06 Accord Coupe (auto) LX?
Any idea on price difference from '06 Civic coupe (auto) LX?
After all, price will be the factor for me else I'll be driving the '06 RL.
Also for those manual driver, does it shift smoothly?
Received this quote from a DFW dealer for the above. 21935.00 out the door. He said invoice was 19928.10 including destination. Advised internet special was 500 over invoice. So 19928.10 + tax @6.25% + 49.00 vip??? + 180.00 TT&L. This quote seems high. Seems like I should get it at or just over invoice considering the holdback, or am I asking for too much. My info shows invoice on this vehicle is 19,478. Any opinions/advice would be greatly appreciated.
SEPA: I just purchase the 06 Accord Sdn EX V6 painted red for $24,618. (includes destination) I traded my 04 Accord EX Sdn V6 painted white to the dealer for $18,500. He wanted to give me $17,500. I paid in October 03, $24,213 for the 04. I love the white color, but it shows dirt big time, especially the rain run off. Also, the color inside the white Accord is tan which is a mother to keep clean. The red color Accord with gray leather interior is perfect. I know that I took a $5,713 hit in the two years that I owned the 04 Accord, but I feel that the deal that I got from the dealer in Phila. has ease some of the pain. I added door edge guards, and mud guards. I'm not being charge for the pin stripe that I requested. Finally, one MUST shop around, and get the best price. The good price is out their, and it may take a week or two of looking, but the wait is well worth it. I pick the car up on Nov 1st, the day after I move to Barnegat NJ.
Comments
I am being quoted $292 plus $12.50.
Thanks.
PT.
There are business reasons why a Honda dealer would sell a vehicle below invoice (e.g., they still can make a profit with incentives from Honda, they want to increase sales and decrease inventory which in turn can increase their vehicle allocation, etc.), so that does not, by itself, automatically make a "below invoice" quote not true.
If you don't have something in writing before you take the two hour trip, though, it would seem to me that you are at risk . . . .
Well of course on a 2005 I can understand but this person is talking about a 2006 which has more of a demand. If this were true it would be somewhat comparable to a price of a 2005.
"If you don't have something in writing before you take the two hour trip, though, it would seem to me that you are at risk . . . ."
Even if they had something in writting does not mean the dealer will have to honor it legaly. Most peopel seam to think if they get the price in "writting" that that is good as gold... not true what it boils down to is what is on the actual sales contract and even that can change unless it is signed by the buyer.
you have some very good points. I tend to think this may be too good to be true for the reasons you bring up too. Most likely I won't be going up there, but I was just curious as to what everyone in this form thought about it. As far as my pervious quote of 25,206 does that sound more reasonible? Thanks again for your help
- They are NOT OTD quotes!
- They don't include distination fee
- They don't include dealer prep fees
- They don't include tax, tag, titile & out-of-state fees
I got this information STRAIGHT from one of their salesperson.
25,200 sounds more reasonable because it is slightly more than invoice (2006 model) and it gives you and the dealer some possible room to play with.
glhendr1 made a good observation that Open Road quotes do not include lots of fees so at the end of the day (Out the door) you may be getting the car about the same price localy. I just wanted you to be aware and save a few miles and hours driving.
the drive.
I recently purchased a 2006 Honda Accord, EX 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5A) from Ken
Dixon Honda in Waldorf, MD. I neg. with a internet saleperson for about two weeks
before purchasing the car. I also called and chatted online with 3 or 4 other
dealers in the area after getting my price from Ken Dixon Honda. Several other
salesperson said they could beat my deal, but no-one (I mean No-One) would give
it to me in writing. I visited one dealership, who promised to beat the deal,
and they wasted my time - told me after a hour of waiting that they couldn't do
it; come to find out, they didn't even have the car available that I wanted (another lie).
Anyway, Ken Dixon Honda honored their internet quote, which was a OTD price and located the car and deliveried it on the day/hour that I wanted to pick it up.
My price for the car: $22,950 OTD
The price was about $500 over invoice, which included the MD tax, 5%, tag,
title, distination & process fees.
I have a very good credit of 730+ score (checked with all 3 beaureus) and no deliquency and no inquiries in the last 6 months for any kind of credit or cards etc...Let's say above good credit.
I have been dealing will numerous salesmen (women) these past few weeks. I can say that maybe three out of twenty were honest and genuinely helpful. There's the cocky category: Thank ME for giving YOU a miserable deal . The fast-talking, wheeler dealer category: I arranged to get it for you; it will be here tomorrow, so I need a deposit. And then there's the good guy category. I don't have it...I'll try to get it...What was your best offer...I'll try to beat it.
I finally found a good guy. He's at Martin Honda in Newark, DE. If you live near Philly, go thru the internet and use a Wilmington zip code. At least that's what I did. I was tired of the malarchy from the nearby dealers!
If you think the negotiating stops when you make the deal, you're mistaken. There is plenty of negotiating to be done with the finance rate. I called State Farm. Top tier is 5.2%, but you have to be a customer. There are rates out there lower than 5.9% Go into the dealership and say that you'll be arranging your own financing. They probably will offer you a sweeter, if not comparable deal.
I just wanted to say thanks for the advise on open road. I had a feeling that is wasn't the real deal. Very good points from everyone who replied to my question. Thanks again!
Is it a good idea to leave a deposit on a car that isn't on the lot? I've had some people tell me it's not a big deal b/c u can always cancel payment if u put it on your credit card, and i've had people tell me that in no way that you shold leave anything down unless the car u want is on the lot. I explained to one dealer my concerns of leaving a deposit, and he assured me that there would be no problems in getting the car I wanted and that I didn't have to worry about anything, and that it's a normal process. I'l like to know what u guys think. Thanks again for your help!
kevin
I am getting quoted the following prices:
2005 Honda Accord LX 5-speed MT (New) $17,218
2006 Honda Accord LX 5-speed MT $18,081
2006 Honda Accord LX Special Edition 5-speed MT $18,610
I'm pretty sure that the 2005 price is reasonable, but what about the others? I really love the new rear end so I'm leaning towards the 2006 but I can't shake that the 2005 is a good price. But then if I get a 2006 I think I'm a fool if I don't pay $600 extra for alloys, 6-disc changer, upgraded interior trim, audio controls on the streering wheel, 4-wheel discs and EBD. Thoughts? I have to decide tomorrow!
Just make sure that it is in writing and also make sure the document states that the deposit is fully refundable if they cannot deliver the car you want...
By leaving the deposit it just shows the dealership that you are serious about buying that car....if they have to do a dealer swap (no additional charge of course) they want to make sure you buy the car...
I put a deposit down on another model in the Honda line because they said it was coming from the factory and should arrive by a specific date....it did not...so I got my deposit back and bought it at another dealership who had just received one in that we wanted....bottom line....get it in writing...it protects you and them....if you do leave a deposit...put it on a credit card....gives you even more protection....and most of the time the dealer doesn't even run the transaction...
good luck....
Thought I had come out well for my '05 LX at $17,550 (incl. the $50 doc fee + $33.33 destination charge) at Hopkins Honda in Minneapolis but it looks like you have me beat. As I'm moving to NY and already have residence there, I had to pay only 4% in taxes, and the registration was much cheaper than in MN, saving almost $700 in tax & registration.
Good to know that the Accord saved your hide. Good luck with the new car.
If you plan to keep it forever, amortizing the cost of the SE makes it an easy decision.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Here is the deal I have worked out.
2005 Silver EX-L with XM Manual Tran & added protection package sedan
OTD is 23000 so it brings actual sale price to about 211XX. I live in Southern Cal and tax here is about 7.75%
What do you guys think? Should I play with this more or walk away?
Thanks
Hope it helps.
I am also shopping for a 2006 Accord Ex 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5A).
The best quote that I have received is $24,125 OTD. AZ tax is 7.6%.
A friend of mine bought a car from them and unhappy. The punishment would be never go back for any service, so they couldn't make a dime again.
I just picked up my 2005 Accord V6 EX with Navigation. My credit score was also about 750...I got a 6.625% for 48 months.
The prices you listed sound very fair as long as they don't try to throw in any other charges other than TTL.
Good luck and glad your '05 protected you so well!
Tax = 8.25%
But many of the dealers already sold out... the remains are lack of the color choices.
Took delivery of the 2006 EX V6 4 dr sedan from Bayridge Honda in Brooklyn yesterday. (First time new car buyer!!!)
Breakdown:
Base: 24568
Destination: 550
Tax (NJ 6%): 1507
Dealer processing fee: 45
NJ DMV fee: 275
OTD: $27 K
Actually walked out once because I thought they were overcharging me for NJ DMV fee (around 200 if you do it yourself), but then I thought it is not worth wasting my day off on $100.
Overall pretty smooth experience. They are 10 minutes from my home, called them and made an appointment for a test drive. They didn't have a 06 so I just drove the 05 (had already made up my mind about buying 06).
Had taken internet quotes from about 10 dealers in the vicinity.
Open Road had 24568 (but 300 for processing fee). David Michael's Honda had similar with 139 processing fee. Both had written quotes.
By the way don't even go near Lakewood Honda in NJ. Terrible people. I had gone there with my wife and kid while visiting friends and the guy there wouldn't even let me test drive the car. He told me what was I doing if I wasn't going to buy the car the same day; well, I laughed and left.
Hardly any negotiation with Bayridge Honda, called them after I got all the quotes, asked them to beat it or match it, they agreed to match it (I forwarded emails with quotes to them).
Went to the dealership who broke down the purchase order for me, I paid $100 deposit and told them I would get them a certified check. Signed the purchase order and faxed it to my bank.
After I got the check I just faxed over a copy of my license and got my insurance company to fax over a binder to the dealer.
Had to wait an hour or so while they got the car ready and of course the finance guy wanted to sell me gap insurance, extended warranty, and lo jack. I didn't want any and he didn't push it.
By the way transmission for this car is still built in Japan, everything else is in Ohio (final assembly point). Hope that't not something which would impact Honda's reputation for reliability.
One final question for all the guy out there. Is gap insurance worth the money? Is is usual practice for everybody who finances a car to buy it?
PT.
How much did you borrow relative to the price of the car? Gap insurance only makes up the difference between the replacement value and loan payoff, so it usually isn't a large amount of money that you are insuring... If the amount they are charging for GAP insurance is more than a couple of hundred dollars, it probably isn't a good deal...
If you borrowed the entire $27K, then my answer might be different...
regards,
kyfdx
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I financed 25K. So I guess I might as well pay a couple of hundred for the gap insurance.
I got this website www.gap-insurance.com and it offers gap at $299 for all vehicles.
Any input from anybody who bought gap before?
PT.
Thanks to everyone's good avdice on if I should put a deposit down for my new 06 accord coupe v6 auto I went to the dealership yesterday to put down my deposit. He showed me the form which showed the final price we agreed to. The form that stated a 100% refund if the car wasn't delivered the way I wanted, and I Put it on my credit card. I even had him write down the manufacturers code just to be on the safe side. I feel confident enough that things should be ok. Is there anything else I was missing? Thanks for your help once again!
kevin
Test drove both (auto). Civic was nice but liked the Accord better. Civic struggle a bit trying to merge onto the highway. Didn't test drove the manual (though I am considering them as well).
How much should I expect to pay for the '06 Accord Coupe (auto) LX?
Any idea on price difference from '06 Civic coupe (auto) LX?
After all, price will be the factor for me else I'll be driving the '06 RL.
Also for those manual driver, does it shift smoothly?
Thanks.