2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

ifi

I'm in Saint Louis, MO

How much extra you guys think I paid?

richards38

I don't like to deal with out the door prices on this forum because different states charge different fees and taxes. For example, California has a maximum "document fee" of $45 + $5 for a state mandated "tire fee" to pay for the destruction of old tires, or something like that. Our taxes and state license fees are often much higher, though. So discussion here should deal with prices before any fees that are collected by a dealer but are passed to government entities.

So, I'm just saying that now, at the end of the year, you shouldn't pay more than about $1,000 BELOW invoice (before license, fees, and taxes) because you should easily be able to buy a 2005 in a month from now for about $500 OVER invoice (before tax, license, etc.)--a $1,500 difference.

Consider this: shouldn't you save at least $1,500 buying an '04 Accord now when it'll be a FULL year old in a couple of weeks? If there are any dealer incentives (check Edmunds) you should do even better on an '04.

One other thing, if your dealer charges more than a $50 "document fee"--some dealers in some states charge $200 to $500--then you should negotiate a price that reduces that to $50. Any fees collected by the dealer that are not forwarded to your state are revenue for the dealer and are negotiable--if the dealer insists on a $400 doc fee, then make sure your deal (before taxes, etc.) is $350 less......Richard

daz

Then i done good, cuz i paid about 2k below invoice !

carmid

I have a quote for a LX AT with side air bags for $17300 in Northern Virginia. The total out of the door price including TTL and processing fee is $18700.

I am not sure if the prices will come down further. The honda dealer incentive of $500 is ending tonight according to edmunds. I may wait for a few days with the risk of prices going up a little.

cardreams

Hi -just came back rfrom my first experience at a dealership. I didnt buy the car eventually. The dealer had asked me to write a check for 500 $ for running a credit check -said that they need a deposit for doing that. I wrote the check.Eventually I got out of the dealership becoz the financin g was suiting me and I want to try and get better financing on my own. I am wondering if I should void that check in the event that I end up not going for the car.
I need and would appreciate any advice.

also he was asking for a 395 prep fee....is that real ? besides licence and document fee which were separate....
also 795 for an alarm ?
thanks,
tara

cardreams

hi ...
also i did sign a contract but didnt give out any credit card numbers or bank accounts etc...
does that mean I am safe to go back on my decision or am I bound now ?
thanks much.

richards38

Why do you need an alarm? I think most, perhaps all, Accords come with a security system included.

A $395 prep fee is a phony baloney--just a way to take your money.

I suggest you find a friend with some experience buying cars. It's a jungle out there.....Richard

cardreams

Richards,
They quoted the alarm to be at 795 and some lo jack thing to be at 895 ...also window etching at 293...what is this etching thing ,Do I need it.
Prep fee he said was to take out the car, wax and wash it ,fill the tanks etc etc....I sensed it was all baloney--which is why I walked out without giving the credit cards and I've stopped the payment on my 500$ check -of course unless they have already cashed it somehow.
What do u think can the consequences of signing that contract are ? Am I obligated to buy it from them now?
Really Appreciate all ur help and I will take someone who has done thin before with me the next time

daz

cardreams,

Trust me on this.....if you want a great deal you absolutly must realize that you have them over a barrel. they want your business badly and they know that all you have to do is walk out the door and there are a ton of other honda dealers that you can go to. You have to take control and don't accept anything they say as fact. They tell you theres a $400 prep fee, you tell them thats not gonna happen and walk towards the door. I promise you that they will stop you from walking out with a better offer. there are tons of dealers out there who will play you to no end unless you make it immediatly known that you know what you're doing and you know what you want to pay, and you let them know that in NO UNCERTAIN TERMS ! Myself, when i go into a dealer i let them know right off the bat what i want them NOT to say and do to me, and i do it just short of being rude. It works. As i said, you have them at a disadvantage. And if that tactic doesn't work, it's because they are not gonna give you a great deal in the first place, and it's time to find a new dealer.

My suggestion to you is cancel the check, research the deals gotten by people here to determine the lowest price possible, then email every dealer within reasonable driving distance. Heres the email i sent to about 15 dealers......

"Hi,

I already have a deal at another Honda dealer, but i am emailing others to see if they can do better before they find the car i want.
Please understand, and i CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, that all i want is a yes or a no. No replies asking to call you or counter offers. Just a yes or no to this price. I realize it is VERY low, so i may not find anyone to do a deal like this. But if you return a yes and you have the car i want or can get it, i will pay cash in full as soon as you can deliver.

Heres the deal.....OUT THE DOOR, that is total cost of $22,000 on a '04 Accord EX coupe in silver with leather. No options, just manual transmission, 4 cylinder and and all standard features. Please note i said "out the door", total cost including everything, tax, delivery, licence, everything. Again, i realize that is very low, but it's the highest i'll go, period. If you can do that and have or can get the car, i assure you i will return your reply and call you to arrange a time that i can be there. Thanks"

Now of course i paid cash and you may not. But you get the idea. Thats how you need to deal withb them. You're the king and they are your servents ! You have to go in with confidence let them know that all you want is yes or no to your questions. No games and BS. I've always dealt with them like this, and if you read my posts on the leather EX i just bought, i got it for about $2000 under invoice. One dealer was willing to do that out of all the dealers i emailed and talked to. The rest either didn't believe me when i told them i got an offer like that or told me to buy it from them !

I hope this helps. I guarantee you that it's the best way to get a great deal, and if you don't they will play you like a clown as they tried by tacking on several hundred for this BS prep fee they told you they had to charge. You need to scare them into fearing that you will walk out the door if they try an tack on charges like that. And trust me, they ARE scared of that door ! DONT LET THEM TAKE ADVANTAGE OF YOU !!!

mrmwave

"Gross profit is figured on the cost of the car. $20.5K sale on a $20K car is 2.5% gross profit... Then, take out interest, commission, overhead, etc, etc.. and that will give you a net profit (probably less than 1%). SSSheewwwwww,"

Car dealer accounting is more complex than that of most businesses.

One accounting dimension is the car dealer's vehicle cost of acquisition from the manufacturer--which is financed by the dealer either through a bank or through the manufacturer itself. A second dimension is the vehicle's floorplan expense--the daily interest cost of keeping it in inventory.

The car arrives, the dealer pays nothing out of pocket, and daily interest expense eventually begins to accrue. Time passes, you buy the car, and because you read this forum, you pay $500 over the Dealer's acquisition cost. The dealer keeps the $500, remits the acquisition cost to the bank or manufacturer, and out of the $500 pays to the bank or manufacturer the unit's floorplan expense--which is the product of the daily interest expense times the number of days the vehicle has been in inventory.

The dealer may well have manufacturer terms net 30 or net 60 or net 90--so floorplan expense may not even commence until they have had the car for thirty days or more.

The dealer's unit cost basis is the expense of keeping the car in inventory; and their gross profit (before expenses) what's left from the $500 (or $2k--as we all know the dealer would prefer) after paying that expense. Then come other expenses, direct and indirect, overhead and administrative.

IMHO, the more you know when you negotiate the better prepared you are to achieve a fair and reasonable outcome. Hope this helps.

stoopid1

Thank you for your responses to my previous posts. Your passionate expression of your beliefs is nothing short of phenomenal. I am so much the wiser as a result. Again, thanks for taking the time to express your opinions.

Stoopid1

cardreams

Daz,
thanks much for the help.
I have cancelled the check and now wanna start all over
Just for the next car, just wanna make sure-
I dont have to pay 795 for an alarm - right

ronk1

I picked up my Accord Coupe Ex V6 AT 3 weeks ago. I paid $23,224 + title and tax. It would have been $23,144, but the salesman charged me an extra $80 to get the red color from a different lot. The final price is $1200 below invoice + $80. I also got a decent interest rate from Honda (4.25%) after I found a better rate at 4.49%. The business manager wanted to get me a bank rate at 5.95%. I got this car in a New York State dealer.

The car is powerful and generally quiet but there is a rattle over bad potholes. I have not determined whether it is body or something else yet and have no time to take it to the dealer. The suspension is fairly stiff (seems stiffer than the Altima 3.5 SE). Anyway compared to my 97 Dodge Neon lowlife, this car is a marked improvement. It is nice to have power on demand so I can merge in very easily.

The leather does stink during hot days but it does have the new car smell.

Ron

ronk1

Sonic,

I was quoted an Coupe LX V6 at $20,548. This includes destination and prep. This is a New York state dealer, but I assume you can get about a $1000 below invoice for the v6. Cars are not selling well so the buyer has the power.

Ron

rumpletzer

After establishing an "out the door" price over email, my dealer also came up with this "window etching" thing at the last minute. They're numbers lightly etched into each of the car's windows and some insurance that if the car is stolen and windows taken, they'll replace them (or something like that). The numbers were already etched into the glass when I came in to drive it.

The dealer wanted two hundred and some odd dollars for it, but said he'd reduce the price of the car to make it free since we had already agreed on the price.

So, the deal is that they use weak HF (hydroflouric acid for glass etching can be bought at a craft store) and etch numbers onto your windows. That should cost just about nothing plus labor. I don't know what the insurance is worth. The etch is so light that it appears that the numbers could probably be buffed out of the glass.

If you don't want it, tell them to remove the numbers or replace the windows and then watch how fast they give it to you for free.

crankky

When I bought mine a few days ago, the dealer told me that they etch every car when it comes off the truck. Helps protect the dealer in case one is stolen off their lot. They then try to sell you the service which basically involves registering the number into some national database. I declined, but the numbers are still there are the windows. Wonder if I can just call the 800 number and register it myself for less?

rumpletzer

After establishing an "out the door" price over email, my dealer also came up with this "window etching" thing at the last minute. They're numbers lightly etched into each of the car's windows and some insurance that if the car is stolen and windows taken, they'll replace them (or something like that). The numbers were already etched into the glass when I came in to drive it.

The dealer wanted two hundred and some odd dollars for it, but said he'd reduce the price of the car to make it free since we had already agreed on the price.

So, the deal is that they use weak HF (hydroflouric acid for glass etching can be bought at a craft store) and etch numbers onto your windows. That should cost just about nothing plus labor. I don't know what the insurance is worth. The etch is so light that it appears that the numbers could probably be buffed out of the glass.

If you don't want it, tell them to remove the numbers or replace the windows and then watch how fast they give it to you for free.

peapod

cardreams, You probably have signed a purchase agreement for that car. Please, Read The Fine Print before you sign. What exactly does the contract say? Fortunately in my state, CT, we have a three day Buyers Remorse clause and we can reneg on the purchase within 72 hours. Check your state's laws, if you are indeed in a contract. Also, notify the dealer you are not buying this car via fax/phone/written/mailed correspondence so they are fully aware you are not intending to purchase this vehicle. If you do nothing a court would find you liable for the purchase since you made no attempt to contact the seller. You should also tell them not to deposit the check as it will cost them/you money for having it bounce back.

It sounds to me like this dealer knew he had a fish on the hook and was just pulling the line tighter with each additional expense. Prep fee is ridiculous, car alarm is not needed if the car already comes with the immobilizer system(check the window sticker). A $500 deposit to run a credit check is outrageous. They pulled this so they can state you put a deposit on the car when you tell them you do not want to purchase it. How many times has Sears or some other retailer given you ten minute approval for their instant credit card to purchase that day? Did they charge you $500?

Now understand a car dealer can charge you almost any type of fee they want, but you have to factor these items into your total purchase cost. If the dealer is going to sell you a car for $23,000 + $800 prep fee and you want to pay $23,800 for the car then great. So what if they call it a prep fee. If you say you don't want to pay a prep fee, they will simply sell you the car for $23,800, no difference, the price is still the same. Heck they may even sell you a car for $1 + $23,799 finders fee. If you are OK with $23,800 then you will but it.

The thing is to make sure you see each and every fee and know the bottom line selling price before you sign on the dotted line. Make sure you ask your salesman two and three times "Are there any additional fees beyond this?" When you get to the Finance Manager understands they will also be trying to sell you additional items like extended warranty, tire protection, paint protection etc... Most of these are bunk. Extended warranty may be worthwhile, but you can always purchase it at another date, even if they tell you you can't It will give you time to find out a decent price on a warranty.

Finally VIN etching costs about $75 from your local police or glass company. Do not pay anymore than this if they state you have to pay something for it. But if they do this, be sure to tell them it comes out of the purchase price. Good Luck

P.S. be strong with these guys(or gals) they prey on weak unknowlegeable people. You have to stand your ground. Read the article about the undercover salesman located somewhere in here, very informative.

cardreams

thanks, peapod.
Could you suggest how and where can I find out about the legalities of this contract in NY state?
Has anyone ever done this before ?
I figured since I wasnt giving out my credit cards and any payments-I should be safe but apparantly not.
Please...help me out.

cardreams

Am I legally bound to a car that I havent even seen leave alone driven off the lot?
Just based on the fact that I signed some paperwork -without having agreed to financing or anything else ?
How big is a contract ? What does it look like...whatever I signed (its a fuzz now) was just one piece of paper that outlined the cars price and the deposit I had made (500 $ check)that they said was for running a credit check.

jkwtrade

Last week, July 27, I purchased a 2004 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl, auto, no side airbags, and no other accessories for $17,348 in Milwaukee, WI.

Edmunds TMV says the price in this zip code should be $18,742. I'm certainly not complaining, just curious why there is a $1,400 difference.

ifi

Sounds like a great deal!!!
How many miles the vehicle had when you received it. And $17,348 include all charges (fee, handling, etc...)?

jkwtrade

The $17,348 included the destination charge of $490 but DID NOT include tax, title, licensing, or $89 dealer service fee.

The car literally had 1 mile on it when I took it for a test drive and still had the plastic on the seats. I wanted black and they received it the morning of the purchase.

The dealer was Wilde Honda in Waukesha, WI. They initially quoted $17,605, which included the $490 destination. However, I had a quote from Russ Darrow Honda in Milwaukee for $17,348 which they met.

Milwaukee has 5 Honda dealers in the area. I received four quotes via Honda's website and all were within $410 of each other.

I also have a residence in Joplin, Missouri and requested a online quote on the same vehicle. They quoted $19,500. I sent them a copy of my lowest Milwaukee quote and they said they could meet it provided they had the color I wanted in stock and didn't have to get from another dealer.

kyfdx

1) Until you take delivery of the car, there is no deal. Just call them back and say you changed your mind. If you haven't made a deposit, then you have nothing to worry about.

2) peapod is wrong about the 72 hour recission rule. It doesn't apply to car sales, in any state. However, it doesn't apply here either way, because you haven't taken delivery.

3) If you wrote a check for deposit, put a stop payment on it. If you put down a deposit on credit card, call your CC company and tell them you want it taken off.

regards,
kyfdx

anonymousposts

The only time the 72 hour rule would apply is if the dealer came to your home and tried to get you to buy the vehicle.

kyfdx

In Ohio, they aren't even allowed to sell at a location off the dealer's lot. At the car show, they won't even discuss price.... it is against the law.

wanda1101

I just finished making a deal for a new red 2004 and wonder what everyone thinks of the price - $23390 (includes destination NOT tax, tag, etc). Leather, satellite radio and such, but it seems like everything but the spoiler is considered standard. Did I do OK?

Forgot to mention I'm in Florida.

sonic

Richards and Ron, Thanks for your replies.
Also, if anyone's from Arizona, i'd appreciate it if you could report your out-the-door prices for any accord models. It'll help me compare.
Thanks again.

ifi

I bought my Black Accord LX last week for $18,500 (with splash guards and pin stripes) plus $117 for paperwork charges plus $7.5 for temp tag. I'm in St Louis, MO...

Wish you best of luck with your new car !!! - Enjoy

rkrnc

I have a quote (second dealer) of $24,306 for a 2004 Honda EX-L V6. Includes destination charge. Add North Carolina tax and tags the final price is $25,000 (NC tax is 3%). I had in my mind of getting $1,000 below invoice since it is a 2004 model. My target price is $23,750 (w/destination charge of $490). Does this seem unreasonable for this market area? I see other posting where customers are getting $1,000 + under invoice but it is in different market. I have also been told to wait until the end of the month to purchase if I want the best deal.

miragesea

What is the difference between side curtain airbags and side airbags as an added option in the LX?

Is the side airbag in the LX not as safe as the curtain bags?

If I'm interested in side airbags should I wait for 2005s to come out when the curtain airbags will be on all LXs. Many thanks.

whitecloud1

I believe side curtain is a step up. There's more
protection for your head in a crash.

wanda1101

I'm still unsure about the price I paid for my V6, but I think I did OK. Anyway, when I went in, I told them if they could go at least $1000 or more under invoice I was waiting for a 2005. Have you tried doing that?

litesp2000

After getting a few web quotes and reading this message board, I'm finally ready to buy.

SF Bay Area
2004 EX 4-door sedan w/curtain airbags, automatic

MSRP $22,800

Invoice,w/dest. $21,009
Dealer Incentive -$500
3% MSRP Holdback -$684
Expected price $19,825

Lowest Quote $19,509
This price is $1500 below invoice, which is in agreement with suggestions on this forum.

I'm thinking that since this car is almost 1 year old, with 05's coming out, I should not offer any more than $19,000 max. I'm expecting out the door for under $21,000.

There are at least 10 Honda dealers within 50 miles of me. I'm open to 4 color choices.

Are my purchase expectations realistic? Can I do even better?

Thanks.

kyfdx

You are already $300 under dealer cost.. Why would you think you can get any lower? They are already under your "Expected price". What are you waiting for? You say its almost a year old and the new ones are coming out.. Maybe that is why there is an incentive and they are selling below cost? It looks likte that is priced into your quote already...... Better grab it.

regards,
kyfdx

iluvhonda

Is this with Navigation? If so, that is a great price. If not, then you have a good bit of room to bring them down.

rylee3

Just bought a 2004 Accord EX auto with side curtain airbags-got wheel locks, trunk liner and mud guards included. Purchased in Michigan for $20,660 which includes freight of 490, doc fee of 160 not included was tax, title transfer and license. Shopped two different dealers both having similar price for car, only difference was the wheel locks, trunk liner and mud guards included on the one I bought.

rkrnc

After the first price quote I asked the sales person what the "whole 'Honda Clearance' sale was about advertised on TV." I returned an offer of 22,750 (which was $1,000 below invoice) and after a couple rounds they came back with $23,754 + destination charge, tax, tags, etc. The second dealership did not have a doc fee and shaved off a meager $188 off on top of that (savings of $488). I heard that in this area Honda had a really good month in July and maybe the inventories are in good shape. What I think I'll do is tell them that $23,000 (+++) is what I'll offer if they are interested in selling it to me and wait it out.

rkrnc

No navigation system. I came close to buying the car but glad I didn't based on the responses.

iluvhonda

I bought the same car 10 days ago in Memphis for $23,300 + tag/title/tax (no document fee). One thing you need to watch for is inventory. The color choice will get limited as time goes by. One of the dealers here in town was giving me an even better offer if I went for the Silver color. He had seven cars in that color but not the one I was looking for (white).

paul9

New '04 EX Leather 5-Speed-4 cylinder

Dealer says $22,000 plus TTL and won't budge. I was hoping for $21,000. They don't have the car and would have to "locate". What do you think?

litesp2000

If you are talking about a 5Spd AT, I would not pay any higher than 21,000 for either 2d or 4d. Manual shift is about 700 less.

rbell2

I just read your last post to me and now this one.

I am in Memphis. What was bad about your experience at Wolfchase? Just curious. Also . . . what price was Dobbs offering on the silver v-6 (that is actually my first choice).

I would appreciate any info. Thanks!

mrmwave

To begin with, try getting a quote from carsdirect.com.

For my zip code, here in atlanta, for an accord EX V6 '04 (no navi) sedan, carsdirect.com today quotes 23,393 including destination. Note that Atlanta dealers almost universally add to that a $400 doc fee (taxable, so its not deemed a service by GA), too.

With a lot of telephone time, recently I saved somewhere in the n'hood of 500-600 from the CarsDirect price, but to do that took 12 hours work over four days on the phone and email.

For a graphite pearl accord EX V6 '04 (no navi) sedan, the price achieved was 23,263 including day/night mirror and cargo net (which can bought over the net from handa-accessories.com for $215 delivered) PLUS $399 doc fee; taxable total $23,662 PLUS $38 Georgia title fees Plus $1659 7% GA sales tax (which out of state purchasers would not pay, although you would have to pay your local NC tax!). If I had been willing to accept a different color, I had a bona-fide offer that was $250 less.

Bottom line: Perhaps you should begin your price discussions at each dealer with your local CarsDirect OUT THE DOOR price.

Since CarsDirect has a margin of three to six or seven hundred dollars, that would seem to align everyone's expectations.

Also, Carsdirect.com's prices are publicly available, everyone knows them, and best of all--you can do it on the phone without leaving your desk. Good luck.

bigbutr

I have been soliciting quotes from multiple dealers for the above mentioned model with no dealer add-ons.
So far, the best one I've received is $22,976.42 out the door, which includes tag, taxes and registration fees. Based on what I know about those numbers, that puts the vehicle cost at below invoice since the tax (3.25 percent) is at least $700. Also, that doesn't even include any 'doc' fees.
I know the $500 dealer cash is still going on, which would explain some of it. But what do you think is the lowest I could expect to realistically go? I had the local dealer say they would beat that amount, then another in a town nearby say they would beat whatever that deal was, so I think I'm in a pretty good position.
Note, I do plan on a couple of dealer add-ons (day-night mirror, mud guards, rear spoiler) which I know will affect the bottom line, but I think I can get those at cost or less because I still haven't dipped into holdback.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Steve
Dothan, Alabama

anonymousposts

Does the $22,000 include any accessories? We just paid $22,400 for our 04 EX-L 5-speed. That price included rear spoiler, mud guards, fog lights, fenderwell trim, cargo net, and the doc fee of $399. Could we have gotten a better price? Maybe. Maybe not. But we are happy with it and there were no other Redondo Red EX-L manual trannys in the region.

echohannah

I live in SF Bay Area and am looking to buy either a LX or EX Accord. Where do you find such a good offer of $19,509 for EX? Please let me know. I got a quote from Anderson Honda for $17,995 LX AT model. And they told me that is the last 2004 LX they have.

rkrnc

I purchased the EX-L V6 yesterday. The dealer finally offered a price that was below the invoice. The final price including destination charge but not tax and tags was $23400. I had to fight pretty hard for that price and still feel I could have done better.

Thanks everyone for the information and advice.

lee_w

Good luck with your new vehicle. Hope you enjoy it!

nittanyterp

I bought a silver Accord EX-L, 4cyl Auto last week for $21,500 ($20,810 base, plus $490 freight and $100 processing fee) plus TT+L. Car included mud flaps, wheel locks, and pin stripes, but nothing else extra. Thought that was a pretty good price based on advice here on this board and the other research, but buyers remorse always creeps in after a big purchase and makes you wonder, though.

Aside from that, I had a question about some after sale offers. The dealer had an employee who made a pretty convincing sales pitch about how the EPA lowered the acrylic % in car paint a couple years ago and said that the Honda applied clear coat won't be enough to protect the car from acid rain, rust, etc. She also said there is no undercoating. She recommended purchasing a dealer warranted paint sealer (or something) and the undercarriage coating.

Everything I heard in the past always recommended against purchasing such options so I didn't, but the sales pitch was pretty convincing. It took me by surprise because I hadn't seen any mention of that on this site or others.

Has anyone had a similar experience or have substantial knowledge on these treatments? If so, what are your recommendations on these treatments. I could probably still go back and have the dealer do it if it is really necessary.

For what it's worth, I bought the car in Maryland, but live in central Virginia.

Thanks for all the info folks provide on this site. It really is changing the way people buy cars.