Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,399
    Rob, I fully agree with you about a taller 5th gear. It's interesting that OB at 0.871 has a different 5th gear ratio than the Legacy at 0.780. Also the Legacy GT final drive is 4.111 whereas the "L" is 3.9. (That's understandable as it gets the GT off the line quicker.)

    Perhaps it's for engine response reasons. When we stomp on it in 5th we'd still like it to move and not crawl like a turtle. (An automatic just downshifts.)

    Hopefully, we'll get the taller 6th when we get the 6-speed. 8~)

    Jim
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    I do a lot of highway driving and average 28+ mpg highway with my 01 GT 5spd.

    bit
  • vince14vince14 Member Posts: 55
    in almost exclusive highway driving, my 00 OB ltd gets 25mpg, consistent up to 80,000 miles.
    Slightly? heavy foot.
  • aakersonaakerson Member Posts: 71
    Okay, if it was just my check-engine-light, I wouldn't bother anyone. But it's also the VDC-off light. So here's my problem.

    A 2002 Subaru VDC -- the VDC-off light comes on by itself, will not respond to the dasboard switch. Other times, there will be no light, but when I hit the switch -- still no light telling me I have just turned off the VDC.

    After a few days of this stuff, the CEL comes on, goes off occasionally when I stop and restart, then comes on and stays on.

    Sometimes both lights are on at once.

    Car has been to the dealer 3-4 times (still there now) and the tech repeatedly takes codes from the car, calls Subaru; they huddle; come up with a new part that will "fix" it. But problem returns.

    One other symptom -- seems like when my errant warning lights (one or both) are on; if I turn on my signal flasher, there is the slightest flicker to the two lights.

    Has been no discussion to day about sending the ECU back for reprogramming -- in fact, as I think about it, that may have been done shortly after I got it.

    Any ideas? thanks.
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    my 97 OB 5MT gets about 28mpg @ a steady 60-65, obviously less than that if faster (a lot of the time) :)

    IIRC, I'm at about 3K @ 70mph, 3500rpm @ 75. It is a bit high compared to other cars I've owned & driven, but it's nice having acceleration & a good amount of torque available without having to downshift.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • tenkmaniacstenkmaniacs Member Posts: 6
    I recently purchased a 1999 Subaru Outback Wagon (automatic transmission)....
    I've noticed that the car does not want to shift from reverse into drive (the engine will race until it finally shifts into drive). I've taken the car to two different mechanics only to be told that they can't find the problem. Has anyone else experienced a similar problem?
  • vienna6vienna6 Member Posts: 1
    Hi- my first time on here; I've got a '01 Legacy with 26k miles and recently noticed a very hot ..almost rubber burning smell when the heater is on. It's happened about 8 times in a month. I'd appreciate any thoughts/comments as I'm got an appointment in a week to get it checked. OF course it won't do it when I get to the dealer! thanks
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Donna - I am assuming that the mechanics checked the tranny fluid level. You might want to get the fluid flushed (Changed) maybe by a Subaru Dealership. Did you buy the car from the owner or from a dealer??

    Christiansen - It sounds like the heater fan is pulling in the odor from the engine bay. Did you look for any leaks (oil, antifreeze)? Are any fluids low? I have an 01 OB and if I get on the brakes I can smell them when I get home, but this appears typical of these cars.

    Greg
  • tenkmaniacstenkmaniacs Member Posts: 6
    Greg,

    I purchased the car from a dealership (unfortunately, not a Subaru Dealership). I've scheduled service with a local Subaru dealership and will ask to have the transmission fluid 'flushed'. I have the service records from the previous owner and it seems that the car was well-maintained. Hopefully changing the transmission fluid will do the trick.

    Thanks so much for your advice.

    Donna
  • darandalldarandall Member Posts: 57
    I purchased a used 2000 Outback wagon with an SE-2 designation on the rear. It appears to be a Limited, leather, wood trim, CD changer, heated seats, but no sunroof. Is this some kind of gray market model? The car runs fine, although I did get the burning smell in a snow storm right after the 60,000 mi. service, which I attributed to a little spill of something during the service. It's a manual, and knock on the wood paneling on the dash, the clutch works fine. Thanks.
  • nine51nine51 Member Posts: 77
    My 02 WRX wagon (5 speed) has consistently averaged 24.5 mpg since I bought it in Jan 02. Highest mpg was 27.8, lowest was 18.5 (foot in turbo!) Not bad for a little screamer. If I remember right, it's turning about 3000 rpm at 70 mph.

    Don't know what my wifes GT wagon will do yet. I can't get her to write anything down, and I never get to drive it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Those are most likely dealer installed stuff. The limited always came with dual moon roofs. Probably the dealer had it gussied up.

    -mike
  • mjansen1mjansen1 Member Posts: 46
    At 63K, our 2000 Ouback is leaking out of the left head gasket. I have heard from a dealer (cousin works there) that they saw about 15 of those last year but not a one leaking from the right. I am talking to Subaru of America about possible warrantee coverage (even though we are 3K above it. Has anyone else had this problem or gotten warrantee "help" after the miles have expired? thanks -mike
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Me too! Just had my 01 OB left head gasket done last week. My dealer said they have several of these already from MY00 Foresters and OB (Same PT). Always the left gasket. I have only 33K miles on it. I suspect you will be able to get this covered under warranty. I also asked them to check my rotors for warpage. They found hot spots and gave me new rotors, resurfaced the rear and all new pads under warranty. For an extra $144 I had the fluid changed in both diffys, tranny fluid changed, and new plugs. The coolant and oil where changed as part of the head gasket work. All that is left is a new fuel filter and change the brake fluid. They definitely took care of me.

    Greg
  • mjansen1mjansen1 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks for the info. However you were under the warrantee still. We are 3K over it. I've been talking to a person at Subaru of America and they do not have a recall on left head gaskets, therefore, the problem doesn't exist. That's why I'm hoping to find others out there. Thanks again. -mike
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I would push it a little with SOA (but not get nasty). Maybe your dealer can help you. Subaru tends to take care of their customers. I would hope they would do this for you. How much is the dealer asking for this work? They told me it is a 4-5 hour job. Keep in mind, they have to remove the timing belt for this. I would pay the extra $$ for a new belt while they are in there and maybe a new shaft seal. Shouldn't cost much more than the belt itself.

    Greg
  • friendly_jacekfriendly_jacek Member Posts: 96
    I had that in my 2000 Legacy at 25000 or so. Grease from inner front CV joints would leak on exhaust slightly but enough to produce the smell sometimes. Fixed under warranty.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Check all the boots (axle and CV) for leaks. The front axle boot on our 626 leaked grease all over the lower engine. It ended up shorting out an oxygen sensor ($220 from Mazda, ouch).

    These are rubber and a sharp rock could have damaged them.

    As for the head gasket leak, work with your dealer in a friendly manner, then open a case with 800-SUBARU3 to see if they'll at least split the cost with you. Keep us posted, and good luck.

    -juice
  • ochsskochssk Member Posts: 52
    Just thought I would mention that I had the transmission parking rod part replaced on my '02 Outback LLBean earlier this week. It's a three hour job apparently! I was happy the dealer took care of it while I had the vehicle in for it's regular oil change. The dealer is taking care of vehicles as they come in for maintenance first so people don't have to bring the vehicle in a second time for the recall. Pretty considerate of them I thought!

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That is a good idea.

    -juice
  • janice96janice96 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 96 2.2 Outback and am looking into getting a Legacy wagon.I have several friends that have had major problems with the 2.5 motors. Last person that had new small block replaced said dealer told him that in some of the 2.5's the cams were not ballanced,and that this problem had been corrected.Question is does anyone know if this is true and has Subaru fixed the motor knocking problem.I would like to get a new Legacy,but untill I know Subaru has fixed this problem I am tempted to start looking for a used 2.2.Why they ever dropped their most dependable motor is beyond me.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I've actually never heard of unbalanced cams on the 2.5. The only major knocking problem I know of was due to piston slap with the earlier Phase I engines. All the current Legacy models use the Phase II 2.5 SOHC engine that has been around since MY00. I haven't heard of any major problems with these -- they are Subaru's workhorse engine now.

    Yes, the 2.2 was a good engine. Actually the 2.5 is a bored and stroked 2.5, IIRC.

    Ken
  • roaminchargerroamincharger Member Posts: 11
    anyone know why the subaru website "mysubaru.com" disappeared?I have an 02 Legacy and love it. It really likes to stretch its legs :) Another Paul
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    http://my.subaru.com, that works.

    -Brian
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    Interesting that your fuel economy is off so wildly. I have found my 99 Outback 5 speed can vary widely depending on following factors:

    Fuel Quality - buy big brand name and premium (we can get 98 Octane Shell Optimax here in OZ which has some detergent qualities and sees 5-10% improvement with marked reduction in jolt from idle throttle to rich throttle settings)

    Air filter - Had major fires here in last couple of days and mixture richness has increased as air filter has become clogged

    Driving style - Very sensitive to speed. Think 10% redcution per 10kmh faster you go above about 80k

    Dirty injectors - cost 10-20%

    Overfilled oil - about 15%

    Tyre pressures - set at factory spec with accurate tyre gauge otherwise handling slips off badly and economy is shot

    Excess load - clear out the boot - amazing how much weight is carried back there - this is no lightweight car but ecxcess weight still tells

    Cheers

    Graham
  • schizaschiza Member Posts: 31
    I've had the car only 2 weeks. My car shut off for no reason at a red light. I started the car with no problem and the problem hasn't occured. This has happened twice with the car since I had it. The idle seems fine. We're taking it in for service. I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else and what the solution was.

    Thanks
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    We have heard this once or twice before on new cars. Seems to go away. Probably due to moisture in the fuel from sitting on the dealers lot (or during shipping) where climate can change quite a bit causing condensation. If the car is not filled, fill it up with a name brand gas. Also, check your tire pressures. Many times the dealer forgets to lower the pressure from the factory (of course this doesn't impact your stalling). Hey, and congratulations on a great choice. Tell us more - color, price, impressions, etc.

    Greg
  • schizaschiza Member Posts: 31
    Bought a pearl white LL Bean. This is my wife's car, but I do enjoy driving it. The car has a solid and substantial feel to it, like my father's Volvo. I'm impressed with the way it handles and rides. Very smooth and quiet also. I drive a WRX and enjoy both cars. My wife absolutely loves it and feels safe in it, she had an SUV before. Took it over a very uneven dirt road and it handled it well. Good lookin car as well. I paid 27.5 for it at a dealer in Wakefield MA. I think it's a good deal, I believe I could have nickel and dimed them for a couple hundred less. I'm sure they made money. Thanks for the heads up.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    I've have a 2001 OB and posted a couple times in the past 18 months about a hesitation. It never stalled but came close. Idle was always fine, but a slight hesitation when starting to move happened 20% of the time.

    I tried different brands and grades of gas with little or no help. Then one can of injector/gas treatment (STP???). Bingo, no more hesitation! Its been running great for 3 months.

    My thinking was just like Greg's. In my case the car was built in Oct/Nov and I bought in April. About 5 months of sitting with little to no gas in the tank. Just wish I thought of it sooner...

    --jay
  • retiredatcsretiredatcs Member Posts: 1
    Hey jlawton2, my 2002 Legacy GT does the same thing. The dealer said they are all like that. I called Subaru over three weeks ago and haven't heard anything back from them.. I guess they don't care. This is my fourth Subaru in 6 years, but it may be my last. Fortunately, the others have been automatics. Also the auto dimming rearview mirror only works when it feels like it. I had 15 x 6 steel rims with snow tires from my 2000 GT. Subaru said they would fit, but they hit the front brake calipers. They also don't know why they won't fit!!! Good Luck.
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I would get a slight hesitation from a standstill when I floored it. After installing a K&N air filter and the dealer replaced the head gasket with new Bosch plugs, the car doesn't hesitate anymore and is running much smoother. Gas mileage might have inched up a little, but I need to evaluate that further. My guess -the hesitation was fixed with the new plugs.

    Greg
  • mafelmafel Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 2001 Outback Standard model and have three questions. First, why is there an engine clicking/ticking noise when I start the car up and stays for awhile. Second, why does the automatic shifter stick when trying to take it out of park (is this normal). Third, how do you get rid of the wind tunnel noise when driving, it sounds as if a window is cracked open but they are shut. Otherwise, I've got no complaints. Thanks.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    #1 - its cold. From what I understand this is normal subie behavior with variable timing. once it warms up, all is quiet. My 2001 OB does it too. (-5F this morning)

    #2 - Sticking shifter? I think I've felt this too, but I'm guessing. If I try to shift from park before fully pushing the brake pedal, the saftey release seems to stick. I've had to let go of the shifter and re-ably the brake pedal. then it goes. its only happen 3 times?? Make sure the brake is pressed before putting preasure on the shifter.

    #3 Probably need to get the windows adjusted. A subie mechanic can adujst the tilt of the window so it seals tighter. Since its an 01 I doubt new weather stripping is needed. Mine has been tight and quiet.

    --Jay
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I can't tell from the description but no. 3 could maybe be noises from the rails on the roof rack.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The clicking on cold startup is the engine pumping up the lifters with oil. This is very very common on boxer engines when cold. When they sit overnight the engine being on it's side drains some of the oil back into the pan v. an upright engine or V engine. Once warm it should be fine.

    -mike
  • mafelmafel Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 2001 Outback Standard model and have three questions. First, why is there an engine clicking/ticking noise when I start the car up and stays for awhile. Second, why does the automatic shifter stick when trying to take it out of park (is this normal). Third, how do you get rid of the wind tunnel noise when driving, it sounds as if a window is cracked open but they are shut. Otherwise, I've got no complaints. Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    For #2, you may have to step on the brake to get it out of park.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Actually, our engines don't get variable timing. AVCS will be introduced with the new STi engine, however.

    Also, I believe the Phase II engines don't use solid lifters. I think Colin pointed that out a while back.

    In any event, the light clicking noise is normal for a cold Subie engine.

    Ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Phase II does use solid lifters. So there is no excess lash takeup until all metal is up to temp - thus some of the tapping sounds. Mike's comments about drain-down applies to older engines that used hydraulic lifters.

    I just had a problem with truly excessive ticking (reported in "Maintenance") in the cold. Last night I switched to synthetic, and it was quiet this morning!! Will see if it stays that way.

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    the new ones didn't use hydrolic lifters.

    My dad's 97 2.2 clatters tons as do the 00 2.5RSs that I know of, until they are warm.

    -mike
  • capesidcapesid Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Outback wagon and have already had the head gaskets replaced twice (under warranty of course). Both the delaer and Subaru say nothing about the problem. Anyone have any thoughts or experiences?

    Capesid
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    You had both gaskets replaced?? It appears it is only the left one that has been a problem. You had it twice? That's not good - tends to point to a design problem. How many miles??

    Greg
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It would mean not a design problem, but an installation problem.

    -mike
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    and it probably is the case. Since the heads are symmetrical, if it was a design problem then you should see it on both sides. Interesting.

    Greg
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I wonder if they missed head damage the first time they replaced the gasket. Maybe it's not seating properly.
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    did a leak down test to make sure the new gasket was properly sealing.

    Greg
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Steve,

    Here are some posts from Colin a while back:

    locke2c "Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair II" Mar 2, 2002 12:19pm

    locke2c "Subaru Crew - General Maintenance & Repair II" Mar 2, 2002 5:23pm

    there are no lifters in any SOHC subaru. they all have rockers that ride directly on the cams and valve retainers.

    Ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    No lifters per se, but nothing to take up mechanical slop when cold on phase II engines. Lash is probably mechanically set when hot, and the free play exists on a cold start.

    Steve
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,399
    It's probably a matter of terminology but valves are usually adjusted COLD.

    I'll have to listen to my engine when it's cold and find out how it sounds but I haven't noticed anything unusual.

    Jim
  • mjansen1mjansen1 Member Posts: 46
    We just got our 2000 Outback back from the dealer-- both head gaskets were done, although it was only the left that was leaking. SUA wanted us to both and it was mostly (it's a long story) covered by warranty so we did. Both my wife and I now feel like there is more vibration from the engine, especially feeling it in our foot on the gas pedal. We had the timing belt done too while they were in there. Comments anyone? Thanks.
    Mike
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