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Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • bslatebslate Posts: 14
    Hi all-

    I have a 2002 I35 with sport/premium pkg. Has 56,000 miles on it. I baby the car and bought it certified in Oct 06 with 41,000 on it. Now that it is getting hot out, when I first turn the A/C on, it really smells moldy and gross for about a minute or two. I dont run the A/C much. Any ideas to what could be causing this?

    Also, the front passenger window will not go up under "auto" mode. Anyone know the fix? If I lightly hold it, the window goes up fine.

    Otherwise, I have been very happy with the car. Although I had wind noise from the back doors like many others when I got it - put some aftermarket stripping around the seals and seems to have done the trick.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    No you have to replace the damaged parts most likely....for the air bags, things like the igniter would of course light your AIR BAG light...and probably damaged wheel sensors are triggering your other lights.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    That's a common problem caused by mold growing in the moist air created by the AC system. The dealer can probably treat the vents with a solvent but to prevent it again you have to get into the habit of running a little heat through the car, even in summer, for a minute or two every now and then...these vents need to have the excess moisture evaoporated.

    Many cars suffer from this, some very expensive ones. But do the cleaning treatment and then remember to run some heat every couple days and I bet it'll improve.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • derjimmerderjimmer Posts: 1
    I got mine in the mail today, from the following link

    I got these...Neo - Wedge LED Instrument Panel Bulbs Type B, for a 2001 I30. I had to remove the panel below the clock ( which includes two air ducts), with thin screw driver, then unscrew the 2 screws holding the clock to the dash, and pull the unit holding th clock, then turn over the clock, and unscrew the two bulbs. Replaced the bulbs one at a time, making sure they lit, and had correct polarity (if in backwords, they won't lite, so rotate them 180 degrees and they should lite), then put everything back in the order removed. The bulbs cost $2.99 ea, plus shiping, for total under $10. They work great. I got the superwhite.
    Hope this helps.
  • garry6garry6 Posts: 1
    Did you get around this problem? I am having the same issue.
  • cwiebecwiebe Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 2003 i35. The sunroof control works in 6inch 'phases'. By that I mean I have to press the open button at least 4 or 5 times to have the sunroof fully open. Same for closing.

    I would have thought as long as I hold the open or close button, the sunroof would keep moving. Is this behaviour normal, or should I contact the dealer where I purchased it?

    Thanks in advance!
  • cwiebecwiebe Posts: 2
    I took the car in today, and they did their magic and it is now working. If I hadn't bought the car two days ago, I likely would have had to pay the $67 charge to bring the car into the shop. Is there a source somewhere that explains how to do these things like resetting sun roofs?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I'd guess that a little safety switch which detects obstructions in the path of the sunroof panel was sticking, and they hosed it down with the appropriate control cleaner.
  • Just noticed a very random squealing noise from the passenger side dash when the A/C is running. It doesn't happen all the time, and the A/c is still cooling perfectly. It's just a random squeal. Our mechanic said it might be a pulley or, worst case scenario, the compressor going out. Anyone have/had similar issues?
  • to reset the sunroof motor, make sure its closed completely. and hold down the close button for 10 seconds and this will reset the motor! the close position is for the tilt function. ;)
  • probably the bearing for the blower motor making the noise if its coming from the dash!
  • u1000 and u1001 are control unit communication failure issues.
  • Has anyone had a problem with their blower motor making sqeeling noises, like the fan is jiggling and not spinning smoothly? Does anyone know difficult it is to change. I know its behind and a little below the glove box. I know some of these fans are tricky to get to. thks, Bob
  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    Has anybody replaced the tires on their I35? My '04 will need new tires within a few thousand miles and I was wondering whether I should stick with the Bridgestone Turanzas or switch to another brand...
  • It how 135 come s little crooked dont know why its like that my 2003 135 is the smae way took it to the dealership ...and jut blah blah...
  • my 2002 infiniti i35 check engine light came on last night,while stopping to buy gas ...I had the engine running at the time .After refueling the check engine light was can i get this light it bad gas,or because i open the gas tank with the engine running will it go away..the car has 170,000 miles on it..still runs like a champ..getting the m45 next spring cant wait..keeping this car ..its family
  • cusafrcusafr Posts: 184
    Yes, it is because you left the engine running. You should NEVER do this for several reasons:
    1)Your Check Engine Light (CEL) will come on even if you don't completely close the gas cap. It is a closed pressurized system.
    2)It is a Safety Hazard to pump gas while the car is running. You could blow up the place.
    3)You are wasting gas.

    The good news is the CEL should reset itself after awhile.

    If the CEL starts flashing or just does not go out in a few days, take it to the dealer.

  • I have an '00 I30 which I just reshod with Dunlop SP Sport Signatures; they've been good in both wet and dry conditions, though I have yet to face any serious winter with them.

    My old Mazda 626 came with Turanzas; they were noisy but had good stick and lasted 50,000 miles. The local Infiniti store recommends the Potenzas, but they're pricey.
  • I just replaced the OEM Bridgestone Turanzas with the new Michelin Primacy MXV4's (the latest version of the MXV4 Energy tires) for my non sport 2002 I35. These tires are a nice upgrade to the Turanza's, they are quieter and hold the road better, both wet and dry. I just completed a quick 600 mile round trip and the Michelin's just perform better.

    I did replace the 215-55/17s with 225-55/17s (one size larger) to have a wider footprint. The Michelin 225's are closer in diameter to the Turanza's than the 215 Michelins.

    I got them at Discount Tire Centers since Costco would not install them on my car.

    I was quite surprised that the factory Turanza's lasted for 57,000 miles.

    Happy Driving.
  • bslatebslate Posts: 14
    Hi all,

    I have a 2002 I35 - I live in the Northeast and now that it is getting cold, if I try playing a CD while the vehicle is cold (like first thing in the morning) it skips like crazy. If you are patient (and I mean really patient) it gets better in a few minutes. However, I rarely do this because its too maddening. Once the car is warm, or after a cd runs for a bit, it doesnt seem to be an issue. Ejecting a CD and reloading does not help.

    Anyone have any ideas or experience this same problem? It doesnt make any sense to me.
  • vdavivdavi Posts: 5
    I just found this site, I hope someone could give some input. I have a 2002 I35, wth 75,000 miles, I've noticed for a while now, "engine knocking" , the engine knocking kicks in at 1800 - 2000 rpm in most all the gears. It stops after 2000 rpm, I read in an earlier post that changing to a colder plug would minimize the knocking (my mechanic disagrees). He thinks its a dealer fix, only that would include a update of the computer software. Any ideas suggestions much appreciated.
  • vdavivdavi Posts: 5
    Thanks for the post.....when you did your fuel mixture of 8-gallons 100 octane and the balance 91, did this fix the knocking for good? or did the engine knocking continue after the next fill up? there any risk to the engine by doing this?
  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    Have you tried switching to 91 or 93 octane gasoline? Maybe that might stop the knocking.

    A dealership software update might also sound plausible. Ask the dealer if there is a service bulletin for this issue..
  • vdavivdavi Posts: 5
    Since I've been the owner of this car (purchased with approx 36,000 miles) I've only used Sheel Premium which I believe is 91 octane. I seem to recall the service person mention using Chevron Supreme, is this a higher octane? Also, earlier posts mentioned mixing 100 octane with 91 octane to acheive higher octane, are there other gasoline brands that have the 93 octane gasoline? There are web-sites that have a grid with mixing ratios to achieve the desired octane number. Does this clean-out carbon deposits and fix the problem and does this pose any other problems with the car? any suggestions?
  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    Well, I would try finding 93 or 100 octane gasoline; but you might have a sensor issue because I've been using 87 octane in my '04 since the middle of '05 when I realized that I could put 87 octane and see little difference in performance..
  • Did you get your surging issue resolved? If so, could you tell me how?
  • Did youget your braking/surge issue resolved? I posted this yesterday...

    Occasionally, when I apply the brakes my foot hits the gas pedal at the same time. This causes acceleration/deceleration at the same time, a dangerous situation.

    When I realize what's happening I don't know how to react. I want to slow down but am reluctant to take my foot off the brake. And I can't relocate my foot more squarely on the brake without releasing brake pressure.

    Has anyone ever experienced this problem with the I35? I've driven many cars over 35 years and never experienced this befotre.

  • rmorarmora Posts: 1
    Help, my car is 6 months without power and vibrates much engine can not put my time has been taken many times with various mechanical and can not be repaired. Please your help :sick:
  • stratdogstratdog Posts: 1
    My CD changer also skips when it's cold, and I live in Atlanta. I have not found a permanent fix, but two things that help:

    1) Get a good CD lens cleaner (the kind with brushes) and use it periodically.

    2) When it's cold, I eject a CD and hold it in front of the heater vent above the CD player and blow hot air on it for ~15 seconds. I reinsert the CD and wait for a minute or two to warm up the internals of the CD player mechanism, and the CDs play fine after that. My guess is that the CD changer is intolerant to cold. If it's really cold, I sometimes have to do this operation twice.

    I've noticed that some CDs are more susceptible to this problem (for example, home-burned CDs).

    Good luck, Strat Dog
  • Hello, everyone!

    my car (24000 miles) has been recently making louder noise when idling, the sound is something like "duh-duh-duh.... " in faster frequency. In normal driving, it can be heard but not quite clear, it may because of road and wind noise overwriting the sound a little bit.

    Another thing is when I park on driveway (not level) to start the engine, the ignition sounds louder. So I thought something may happen to engine mount and it's getting loose.

    I have just visited the local infiniti dealer (only one here in Calagry AB) and they run some diagnostic and said two fuel adopters need to be replaced. It causes about Canadian $660 plus $130 diagnostic fee which I already paid this morning. So total is $790 to fix this problem (I am not sure it going to fix). I will have to go back to the dealer next Monday for replacing the adopters when order arrives.

    So what's the fuel adaptor is? Could someone give me some lesson. Thanks lot!
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