Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Sure could be chain noise from a bad tensioner. Usually you'd hear this more when the engine is 'slack' than when it is being revved but this could be diagnosed with a mechanic's stethoscope.
  • melansonmelanson Member Posts: 1
    Hi,I do not understand who you were talking to.I think they all just wanted your money or didn't want to help!We have gotten our tires for our I35 everywhere and were never told that!We have never had Bridgestone tires either. Firestone,townfair tire and sears have all put tires on for me within a half an hour:)Like i said,never heard of that and have never had a problem and our car is used for delivery all day everyday so we go through tires!
  • dontknowaskdontknowask Member Posts: 3
    I have a similar issue w/ my '04 I35 (130K miles). I've noticed that the knocking sound happens mostly when I am only local roads probably on 2nd gear coasting at 2000rpm. I do not hear it when I'm on the highway. The interesting part is that this morning I had the "service engine soon" light come on. What do you recommend that I look at? Thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well pinging only occurs under engine load. You wouldn't be getting pinging if you were coasting leisurely. In any event, scanning for a trouble code might give you some hints.
  • dontknowaskdontknowask Member Posts: 3
    I changed the oil and found that it was low on oil even though the dip stick indicated otherwise. Drove about 5 miles to Autozone and had them scan the code and it indicates the camshaft sensor (P0011). Now I'm trying to find a diagram to locate the camshaft "A" sensor
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    I sent a diagram to you via e-mail.
  • wilson16wilson16 Member Posts: 20
    I have tried the premium gas and I still get the pinging or valve rattle which ever it might be
    I know the car has high mileage but it has been very well maintained.
    What I'm asking is what would anybody advise to look at next? knock sensor , camshaft semsor etc...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yes could be any of those---you can have the timing checked with a timing light---but cam sensor, crank sensor and even a bad ECM can cause this problem. Also the timing chain could be worn, which would be unusual, but...

    The knock sensor is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is sensed as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the ECM.
  • realtordaverealtordave Member Posts: 8
    I had the same problem turned out I just had to replace the timing chain/belt.
  • wilson16wilson16 Member Posts: 20
    That solved the problem completely? How many miles did you have on it when you had this done. This sounds costly!
  • leftcoasterleftcoaster Member Posts: 1
    I just had to replace the motor mounts on my 2004 I35. The mount I had to get was quite a bit more expensive than previously thought because as it turns out, the motor mount has a sensor on it and we had to get it from Infiniti. The repair people ( not Infiniti ) had no idea what that sensor did. Anybody know?

  • mik5423mik5423 Member Posts: 7
    The mount is filled with a dielectric fluid, hence the wire going to it. Now as far as what it exactly does I'm not sure but I believe it has the ability to stiffen up the mount through the wire and the dielectric fluid during hard acceleration and possibly hard braking as well. I am curious to know how many miles are on your I35 and which mounts you had replaced and what you had to pay for them. I have 85,000 miles on mine and havnt had to replace these yet. only the side mount which dosnt have fluid in it. what kind of symptoms were you experiencing. Thanks.
  • jule100001jule100001 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Wetshoe. Did you ever get a response to your inquiry? I am having the same problem with drivers side and passenger side floor getting wet.....Any insight you might be able to provide would be so welcomed!

    Thank you.
  • bubbaicmcbubbaicmc Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem with my daughters 2002 i35. i am just starting to problem solve it. i don't want to spend $800 on a new controller if you have any further info please let me know. if i find a cheaper solution i will let you know.
  • bigphil2012bigphil2012 Member Posts: 1
    Hi new to forum and had a few issues I wanted to get some info about:

    I have a 03 i35 and the light in the clock has been out for several months now. Not a huge deal but would at least like to see the time at night. Any idea on cost and if I can fix myself? I am not a mechanic but am technically inclined.

    I have the rattling noise from take off to about 40-50 miles an hour. Sounds like a loose bolt but have no idea where to look. Previous post seem to point toward a tensioner but not sure. Any ideas are appreciated!

    A few months ago I hit a bump and my speedometer went all the way to zero. For the next few week it would occasionally read the right speed but now the disk has flipped all the way to the other side so when I start the car it reads past 160. As I accelerate to highway speeds dial will go to about 120, then when I brake goes past 160 again. Would this be a bad sensor or instrument cluster? All the other gauges work fine.

    I also have the wayward sub that seems to work whenever it wants to. I checked connections in trunk and couldn't find anything lose so I have been dealing with it this far. I'm guessing the amp is going out.

    Please help! Thanx
  • wilson16wilson16 Member Posts: 20
    Has anyone ever changed one out and if so what are the steps to follow
    My passenger side went out last week and these things cost a fortune at the dealer along with installing I found some on for less than $115.00 a pair
  • infinityladyinfinitylady Member Posts: 8
    Had a headlight go out on mine also, but it was a broken assembly and had to replace the entire headlight. Was able to locate one from a junk yard and it has worked great. I know what you mean about it costing a small fortune so I hope the one I get will last a while. As far as installing one of these, something I learned while shopping for what I got was that you CANNOT touch the lamp. It will burn out quickly if you do and is hard to do without. About all I can tell you is be careful and good luck. Most people seemed to think it was a better idea to replace the entire headlight, instead of just the lamp. Might be worth checking to see what is available and the costs involved. Good luck.
  • wilson16wilson16 Member Posts: 20
    Well I have the bulbs coming and I just found a business who said they would do it for $30.00 both sides because im changing the other one also
    so the brightness will be the same(CAR HAS 285,000 ON IT) THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Bulb Replacement

    CAUTION: After replacing a new xenon bulb, be sure to make aiming adjustments.
    Hold only the plastic base when handling the bulb. Never touch the glass envelope.
    Do not leave headlamp reflector without bulb for a long period of time. Dust, moisture, smoke, etc. entering headlamp body may affect the performance of the headlamp. Remove headlamp bulb from the headlamp reflector just before a replacement bulb is installed.

    Disconnect negative battery cable.
    Disconnect headlamp connector.
    Remove headlamp assembly.
    WARNING: Never service a xenon headlamp without disconnecting negative battery cable and with wet hands.

    Remove headlamp seal cover by turning it counterclockwise.
    Turn bulb socket counterclockwise with keep pushing, then remove it.

    Release retaining pin.
    Remove the xenon bulb.
    Install in the reverse order of removal.
    CAUTION: When disposing of the xenon bulb, do not break it; always dispose of it as is.
    Make sure to install the bulb securely; if the xenon bulb is improperly installed in its socket, high-tension current leaks occur. This may lead to a melted bulb and/or bulb socket.

    Turn the bulb clockwise (LH high beam) or counterclockwise (RH high beam).
    Remove the bulb.
    Install in the reverse order of removal.
  • wilson16wilson16 Member Posts: 20
    How does the headlight assembly exactly come out?
    How many screws are there holding the fixture in
    I see 2 on the top Is there another one hiding you can't see
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Unfortunately my database doesn't show this. Hopefully someone else here will jump in on this one....sorry...I'll keep looking for you.

    OKAY I'm back.

    See if THIS HELPS
  • infinityladyinfinitylady Member Posts: 8
    My boyfriend replaced the light (he is gone now) but, if I remember correctly, I did some extensive searching for "how to" replace the light. Believe it was not that hard to find the information and it was very helpful. Seems there is a screw hidden kind of in the wheel well, behind or below the light assembly. Look up at the assembly, from under the car. Maybe he had to go in from the wheel opening to find it but access was from below the car.

    If you can't find the information I will look for it again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    See post #581---shows how to do it.
  • thisisbellethisisbelle Member Posts: 6
    Hi there...I tried to search all of the boards before I posted, but it was almost impossible to find the problems that I was having..
    1) I started noticing a vibration noise when after I started my car and put it in gear....I could only hear it when I was sitting inside my car...if I put it in park and got out it wasn't like I could "hear" anything abnormal...I also started to notice a vibration in the steering wheel...I thought perhaps it was some sort of tire issue since I needed new $500 later and 4 new tires and alignment, I was hoping that the vibration noise and feeling would go hasn't...Now it seems as if the vibration is stronger...I thought perhaps it was a motor mount that I was feeling...had it checked and they said the mounts were fine... Any clue? Now for issue #2.
    2) Battery and Brake lights have started flickering off and on during driving the car. The car momentarily loses power, RPM's go down and I coast briefly and then power resumes...I thought it was the alternator but I had a new alternator put on a year ago on New Years Day! I also had to put in a new battery at the same time, so these aren't more than a year old. I drove up to my local Advance and they hooked it up for me..Alternator, Battery, and charging system came up fine...I could reproduce what the car was doing for the guy helping me and he said to take it to my local garage...I took it and left it for 5 days. The drove it off and on, put it on diagnostic machine and NOTHING!! The mechanic said he couldn't find anything codes besides an oxygen sensor.. I left and on my way home...yup, you guessed it...brake and battery lights flicker and car loses power...but it never completely goes out...Does anyone have any idea? I'm trying to avoid $$$ for all kinds of useless diagnostic tests that tell me my car is ok...has this happened to anyone else?? I hate to pay for another new alternator/battery if there is some underlying little problem that is hard to detect...Thanks so much...
    P.s... I am a 38 yr old woman that is by no means a car expert and I just hate the way the "guys" look at me when I walk into a shop...All help is GREATLY appreciated!
  • thisisbellethisisbelle Member Posts: 6
    By the car has @158K miles...
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    My car had vibration before and it turned out that one of the ignition coils was going out. So, I would check all spark plugs tips for any misfire in the engine. Normally, all six of them should look closely the same. If there is a misfire, the spark plug tip would be covered by dark grey charcoal or oil. If this happens, a mechanic can tell what need to be done.
  • infinity_hell1infinity_hell1 Member Posts: 1
    Can you please tell me the outcome of your above problem?! I am having the exact same problem after a very similar bumper accident. Have already replaced a sensor and fuse, computer has had 3 relearns..... What happened with your car? We're you able to find a reason and fix?

    Many thanks
  • wilson16wilson16 Member Posts: 20
    I was wondering if anybody has ever replaced the chain on a I35 and would it be worth the money $$$ to do so. The car is lien free and still runs well. It's started having a noise when idling so I thought it might be the chain getting loose
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    edited June 2012
    It's a big job and I'm not sure I'd jump into it just yet if I were you. If the noise goes away just off idle, then it might be a loose chain or a bad chain tensioner, but if you hear the noise off idle, it could be something else. It would be good to get ahold of a mechanic's stethoscope and see if you can isolate the noise.

    BTW, engines can run a long time with a slightly work chain but if it starts really making a racket, it's time to do it.

    Certainly with 300K miles, it's a distinct possibility that the chain is worn.

    Labor is over 12 hours, so it won't be easy or cheap. Depending on where you live, this is going to cost you north of $1500.

    That's not much of a used car if you tried to replace yours.
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    edited June 2012
    You have to be sure it's the chain noise. Watching Youtube under "Honda S2000 Engine Noise", the noise is louder when engine is warm and revved up.
  • 04i3504i35 Member Posts: 2
    Hi npriest, I just found this topic on the forum; my '04 I35 has been having this noise for two years, it's exactly as what you described, only right turn. Curious about if the front engine mount was truly the remedy to eliminate the noise since you had the dealer replaced it?
  • npriestnpriest Member Posts: 13
    edited December 2012
    Hi, 04i35. Sorry-- haven't been on the forum in a while and didn't notice your query. Yes, the noise did abate with replacing the front engine mount. Sorry again for the late reply. If I remember (been a while) it was about $500 P&L at dealer.
  • 04i3504i35 Member Posts: 2
    Hi npriest, appreciate your confirmation of the fix.
  • jocko666jocko666 Member Posts: 2
    I hate to sound really ignorant but in the original posting there was a link to an "Official" Infiniti site and I look at the exploded diagrams but what is the "motor mount" called????
    If I were to ask at a parts store, do they resemble any old motor mounts from cars of the 60's era? (I doubt that !!)
  • thisisbellethisisbelle Member Posts: 6
    Good morning fellow Infiniti I owners... I have been working on this issue on and off for about a year now... this was my original post:
    ) Battery and Brake lights have started flickering off and on during driving the car. The car momentarily loses power, RPM's go down and I coast briefly and then power resumes...I thought it was the alternator but I had a new alternator put on a year ago- I also had to put in a new battery at the same time, so these aren't more than a year old. I drove up to Advance -hooked it up for me..Alternator, Battery, and charging system came up fine.....I took it to local garage and left it for 5 days. They drove it off and on, put it on diagnostic machine and NOTHING!! The mechanic said he couldn't find anything codes besides an oxygen sensor.. I left -on my way home...yup, you guessed it...brake and battery lights flicker and car loses power...but it never completely goes out...Does anyone have any idea? I'm trying to avoid $$$ for all kinds of useless diagnostic tests that tell me my car is ok...has this happened to anyone else?? I hate to pay for another new alternator/battery if there is some underlying little problem that is hard to detect...Thanks so much...
    FFW to today (May 2013) I have had two new alternators put in since January 2011- 2 new batteries...took my car to an "electrical" guy and he said my alternator was putting out correct "amps" or whatever it is that alternators do...I drove it home from his shop and AGAIN :sick: :surprise: :cry::( battery light/brake lights flash and then car dies..loses power as I am driving..It's been parked for about 6 months but I am in need of my car so...Anyone have any idea of what UNDERLYING electrical issue I could be having? Something has to be messing up my alternator...3 alternators in 2 years? HELP!!!
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    It should be a short circuit somewhere in the wires before coming to the fuse box. If the short happens after the fuse box, it would blow the fuse. If there is a wire chafed to car body part at the time, it should create a short circuit and paralyze electrical system. The only thing to find out is thoroughly inspection the wires.
  • pontiacdude4pontiacdude4 Member Posts: 1
    Check out the 2013 Engine Recall from Infiniti for older I35 models, sounds like the problem you're having...

  • wilson16wilson16 Member Posts: 20
    What year's of Infiniti I-35 are they recalling? I have a 2003 model
  • thisisbellethisisbelle Member Posts: 6
    Wow! Thanks! I will be calling my nearest Infiniti dealer. BTW, I had my alternator replaced AGAIN and the car is holding on...I am going to get this recall looked at though! I can't say thanks enough! :blush:
  • 2011m372011m37 Member Posts: 2


    I owned an Infiniti I35 for more than 10 years, the car had 200,000 miles before it was totaled in a highway accident by a hit and run driver.

    I had the car since new (2003), and throughout the life of the car, I have no serious problems with it, I followed the regular maintenance and change oil every 7,500 miles.

    The only issue I experienced was a sensor went out at engine port, it was able to limp home with oxygen sensor light on, it costs me about $350 to replace it, other than that, no problem at all.

    I changed the tires 4 times, replace the brake pads 5 times, change spark plugs one time, that is about it, the engine runs beautifully, and transmission shift as smoothly as the day I got it, everything hold up very well, and is still the original equipment came with the car.

    Very reliable car in my opinion.

  • xxaimsxxxxaimsxx Member Posts: 2

    Thanks for posting about the recall! My dad bought the 2002 off of a client of his about 4 years ago and he's had to fix a few things and tune it up since they never did take care of the vehicle.

    After reading about the recall, everything they listed under consequences has happened except the crash part thank goodness so I'm waiting for Infiniti to call me back so I can bring it in and have them look at the crank, camshaft and time variable sensor and hopefully they will replace them all.

    A question I have is, I've changed the windshield wiper numerous times and regardless if its new or old, when it rains, i can't see out the window at all. Using the wiper makes it that much more worse. The only way I can describe it is like water and oil mixed in. Has anyone had this issue before? Do you think replacing the window will make a difference?

  • xxaimsxxxxaimsxx Member Posts: 2

    Hi Ferdi-

    I know this is old but I usually dont believe everything my dealer tells me. For instance, I have a Honda Ridgeline (now driving a 2002 i35 cause someone tboned my truck). Anyways, I have a gel battery, and I always bring my oil changes to the dealer and the guy comes back and said, oh you need a new battery, its running low on life. Then I come back half a year later or more to get another oil change and the lady goes, we couldn't check your battery because it's gel. lol!!! And I've had my gel batter since 2008 and it's 2014 now.

    @ferdi1 said:
    Hi everyone,

    Today i went to car repair shop again. I had hope that the guys there will find something wrong with my Infiniti I35.

    I gave them the list with the problems which my car has according the Infiniti dealership. And it took them like 1 hour to do the inspection.

    The results ware that there is no problem with the tie rods, the front lower arms ware in good shape and that there is very slow steering oil leak which is not a big problem for now.

    I don't know who to believe. But one thing is for sure i will never ever go to the infiniti dealership again to change my oil or for whatever it is.

    I think that they ware not earnest to me and try to make some more money of me. I'm so sorry to say that but that is the way i feel.

  • rdu06rdu06 Member Posts: 1

    I'm VERY late to this thread (in search of something else) but can't read this comment without leaving a reply for anyone that is searching in the future. The reason the turning radius is the way that it is, is because of the engine torque. Anything less will leave idiots flipping their cars in aggressive, but common driving. Talk to any Infiniti service tech and they'll explain it better than I can. But I've been under both of my i35's over the years and have asked most questions ;) > @alfaber said:

    Marcus216: I think it's clear why the turning radius is so large -- Infiniti wanted to go to 17" wheels this year and was too cheap to redesign the front end to allow adequate clearance. It's the same reason the the full size spare tire (non-sport) doesn't fit in the tire well.
    I really like my I35, but these examples of cost-cutting don't speak well for Infiniti as a company. I've spent about $400 to rebuild my trunk to get the extra 4-5 inches lost to this design problem back (if anyone is interested, I'll post details).

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