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Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • ferdi1ferdi1 Posts: 16
    Hi, I bought Infiniti I35 like 4 weeks ago. The car is great and i love it so much.

    While reading this forum i realized that I also do have some of the issues described by the other owners. For example when i start my car and pull back from the parking lot, there is some strange noise like for half second. CZZZZT... that sounds to me like suspension, or something what has wire on it.

    That happens only when i start the car and drive like with 5 m/h and only then. If i drove the car for 5 minutes and stop somewhere for a drink or coffee, and start the car again after 10 minutes the sound is not there.

    And that happens almost every time when i pull my car from the parking lot in the morning.
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Posts: 16
    Hi I bought Infiniti I35 like 4 weeks ago. The car is been great. But I had some little problems with it.

    I had the same jingling noise under the hood like a week ago and it came all of a sudden one morning.

    I went to a mechanic and they said that there is some issues with my left (cooling) fan motor.

    They found the assembly for 230$ online and the delivery was next day. Now i have brand new assembly. This assembly includes both left and right fan motors, the left and right fan blades, and the shroud.

    And the sound is gone. All together for 390$.
  • Hi, I've read up on a lot of the posts on the I35 and just bought one. Through a Inifinti dealer I bought a 2002 with just under 60k miles, black/tan. The car was "certified" and came with a 12 month/12,000 warranty. I'm feeling good about the purchase. Any words of advise? Also, tires are about at 70% but I would like to put my mark on the car with new tires (I like that feel), any recommendations on a good quality, good riding, quiet tire? Looking forward to chatting with you.
  • The latest on my I35 making a noise when I turn right in cold weather (See Msg #403): I took it to the dealer, and they looked at it, and they said that they can see no problem with the right front wheel bearing, but they think it PROBABLY is the reason for the grinding noise!! Does this sound familiar coming from a dealer?
    I am beginning to think that this vehicle belongs to a certain variety of citrus fruit, namely a lemon. I hope I am wrong.
    Thanks to all who contributed to this topic.
  • npriest: did you fix your I35 grinding problem? I changed my tires and mentioned it to them. They said that one of their customers had the same issue except his was turning left. It turned out to be something with the transmission. The more I drive it now, the more I think it is transmission related. I will take it back to the dealer once it is so bad that they can't deny!

  • Exactly my 2 complaints, neither of which has been fixed. Have replaced struts, (replaced right front strut twice), had tie rod replaced front right, new tiresx4 and still the tire bouncing/bumpy sound when going over the most minor road imperfections. Almost sounds like you have a flat tire.

    Re: grinding noise/wheel bearing, refer to post #411. No resolution. Starting to do it even on milder days when it gets into the 50s and 60s. Infinity told me to bring it back when sound was unbearable and then change wheel bearing but they couldn't guarantee it would fix it. Ridiculous.

    Signing off for now until I have any meaningful updates! Thanks to all.
  • Hey Slowdriver,

    I know your post is old but I was wondering if you had any update regarding the Michelins you bought, how many miles you have on them? Still a good purchase?
    Also, any negatives of buying the larger size? (Turning Radius?)

  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    When I went to replace the tires on my '04 (which should be the same tire size, if you don't have the Sport Package) I went with Michelin Primacy MXV4s, which besides being the cheapest tires the dealer had in stock, also received better reviews on The Tire Rack than the OEM Bridgestone Turanza EL42s. (went with the dealer's tires because I had a coupon on new tires, and the other places I looked at would have charged more)

    link title

    I've heard stories in years past of people going with a set of Falkens, and I briefly considered getting Kumhos, but overall, I'd say the Primacys are your best bet.
  • stan53stan53 Posts: 1
    Just wondering if you have found a solution. I am having the same problem with a 2002 as well. Thus far I have replaced struts, bearing plates (KYB's), rebuilt my brakes and calipers, to no avail! The sound as you describe mirrors what I am hearing. Have put the car on a hoist, checked all of the bushings etc. I am stumped as to the source of the noise. It is primarily on the right side, and seems to be strut related. Thinking about changing the bearing plates again, this time to Monroe, as they have a slightly different design.

    Interesting in what you have found.

  • stan53: Are you talking about the grinding noise? I suspect mine is a transmission issue. As I can hear the rumbling noise from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd gear. But once it is warmed up, it is gone. But why the grinding noise making a right turn in cold weather first thing in the morning is a mystery. Please keep me posted if you find something.
  • srs3srs3 Posts: 5
    No, I haven't done anything, I guess I'm waiting till it gets so bad that the dealer cannot deny that there is a problem. I'm not about to change almost every part of the suspension to figure out what is wrong. I suspect the dealers know about the problem but are not willing to reveal. I suspect this is a very common issue with all the I35's and they don't want a recall. I hope this is not a serious problem, I hope nothing breaks down and makes me loose control of the car!!!!!!!!! May God be with us all. If anyone else has had a similar issue and has been able to resolve, please let me know. Thanks
  • gcpy1gcpy1 Posts: 2
    Hey guys! I have a 2004 I35 with about 72k miles. I have oil that is dripping (small amount) from just below the oil pan after the car sits for about 45 minutes. Another problem (that seems to be getting worse) is when I start the car I hear a knocking noise from the engine. The noise is right when the engine starts and it stops almost immediately. Any ideas? Thanks
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Posts: 16
    Hi gcpy1, i also had drip under my car. I have I35 2002 Sport. The problem turn out to be the steering liquid. Check the color of the oil. If it is red or brown that could be transmission or steering oil. They both use same kind of oil...
  • gcpy1gcpy1 Posts: 2
    It is motor oil. That I am sure of. I am having it looked at this week so I will report what the problem is. I have only had this car for about 60 days and so far am not all the happy with it. It rides great and has decent performance but I have had to replace a battery and this is the second oil leak. The first was an O ring that had gone bad. Another problem I have is the CD player has a really hard time working properly in the cold (I live in Atlanta so it never gets REALLY cold). Anyone got any ideas on that? Should I just get it cleaned? Thanks everyone. This site is great.
  • chuck_jchuck_j Posts: 5
    I have a 2004 Infiniti I35 as well. I bought it used at a Mercedes Benz dealer... it was a trade in. The car currently has about 66,000 miles on it. I notice the vehicle had a rattling noise a couple months after purchasing it. My father who is a mechanic along with a couple other gentlemen told me it couple be that octane level in the car is low... and that i should put an octane booster and ONLY use 93 premium gas. (I stopped for a while because of the ridiculous gas prices last year)

    The noise only occurs when I began to accelerate. Anyone else having this problem??

    Also, When I turn right corners, my front right strut/shock (don't know) makes noise. anyone knows about that??
  • chuck_jchuck_j Posts: 5
    My car does the same thing, but I think thats normal. My Wife has an Acura RL nd it does the same exact thing...
  • Is it knocking noise or rattling noise? Does it happen only in the morning when you first start the car or it is whenever you accelerate?

    Regarding noise when making right turn, Do you live in cold climate? Does it go away after it is warmed up? My 2004 I35 makes this grinding noise when I turn right while it is cold outside. Also, for the first few minutes, I can hear it makes this rumbling noise when car is shifting from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd gear. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the wheel bearing, however, it is still the same. I have 1 more year of extended warranty left. I will MAKE them fix the problem before it expires. Please let us know what kind of noise and in what conditions.
  • chuck_jchuck_j Posts: 5
    Its a noise I think it is coming from the engine or under the hood somewhere. It firstwas only when i began to accelerate but now I hear it often. Someone else told me it could be thetypeof oil Im putting in the car, but its no different from the oil jiffylube puts in any other car... Oh and yourright it happens during the first couple gears, after gear 3, its okay..

    I have an extended warranty I purchased at the time of buying the car. It expires in the next year. I am afraid to even attempt to use it because I have heard alot of issues with "extended warranties"
  • davmarinedavmarine Posts: 6
    When you run less than required octane as you did in your car you screw up the computers mind only use 92 or 93 octane you shouldn't need a booster but running a bottle of lucus tune up ina bottle thru a full tank might help you.You could have injectors dirty.
  • davmarinedavmarine Posts: 6
    Infiniti's have always had a problem with noisy start ups from oil draining off as most use the thinner oil because the clearances in these engines are so tight.There was a recall on the I 35's in 03 to replace the timing chain shield to help it stopsome of the noise.Another thing your hearing on start up is valve noise the only thing you can do is run good oil and a good filter that doesn't allow the oil to drain back into the pan,they will cost more but they are worth it.I have a 03 with 165 miles and I run castrol high milage 10w30 and it helps.Most of these cars make nosie on the right front when you start driving cold and stop when they warm up a bit.As for the cd players not working correctly in cold weather that seems to be the norm.Let the cabin warm up before you start it and of course clean the system.
  • Hi, ;)

    I recently purchased a 2002 Inifinty I35 and when I bought it, it had a broken lens on the headlight assembly. I need to replace it now. I have purchased the assembly (outrageous cost) and need to install it. My boyfriend and a friend are planning on installing it tomorrow and I was wondering if there is anything we need to know about this before we get started. Any and all help is appreciated.

  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    I took my 2004 I35 in for an oil change the other day, and the shop mistakenly used 10W30 instead of 5W30- I did a little research and during the summer months there seems to be less of a difference between the 2, but, should I be worried that 10W30 was used instead of 5W30?
  • Hi all, :D

    My headlights are working great now! I found a reference somewhere that said there are three 10 mm bolts holding the head light in place, two on top and one on bottom, which is accessed from the front wheel well. According to my boyfriend it is best to take the bottom one out first. And, like it said in the information I received, it's hard to get out, even once the bolts are removed.
  • I read your message to my boyfriend and he says, if you have say 100,000 miles on your car, it shouldn't make any difference. Even at 60,000 it should be okay, there isn't that much difference in the two oils, as you say. As an engine wears the tolerances loosen up, along with everything else. Hope that helped.
  • My check engine light came on recently. I will be taking it in to have it serviced in the next couple of weeks. At that time I will let you know what happens. I have heard it could be anything from a new oxygen sensor, filter or something like that to something major. I checked the fluids so that is not part of the problem. It could be the gas tank O ring?
  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    Thanks; the car has a tick over 76,000 miles on it and the place said that the 10W30 would be fine at that mileage.

    I will probably insist on 5W30 the next time, though...
  • myi35ridemyi35ride Posts: 3
    I just bought a 2003 i35 and love the car so far but the clock at night is really dim and the rest of the dash is fine. Anyone have experience replaceing the bulb or bulbs in the dash?
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Posts: 16
    My check engine light just popped on (59K miles). I'm hoping it's something minor.
    I'll bet that if it is an oxygen sensor it's $300.00.

    Any update on this issue?
  • valovalo Posts: 7
    Don't know what to tell you. Mine came on at about 43,000--intermittent. My mechanic kept getting different readings and suggested the dealer. I was told (and verified on this forum) that the dealer ought to have more sensitive equipment to diagnose the problem. Twice I've scheduled the car, and both times the light went off on the morning of the day it was to go in. It has been off now for nearly two months.
  • davmarinedavmarine Posts: 6
    Go to walmart and buy(or auto parts store) and buy you a small bottle of lucas feul injector cleaner its also a upper cyclinder lub.fill your tank and pour it in the tank.I've had this turn off my check engine lite twice.Auto zone can hook up under the dash with a computer and the car will tell them whats wrong if that does not work.
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Posts: 16
    Thanks Dave

    I will take you advice on the lucas fuel injector cleaner stuff. Auto Zone for diagnostics? Didn't know that. I'll let you know.

    Thanks again.

    (I'm still betting I need an O2 sensor.)
  • valovalo Posts: 7
    Thanks for that davmarine. My light is intermittent so will try Lucas cleaner before anything else.
  • Thanks for all your responses. I took it into a friends shop today and the computer said it is:
    Emissions-related powertrain DTCs, Mode 3:
    Electronic control unit ID: 10
    "A" camshaft position - timing over-advanced or system performance (bank 2)
    Continuously monitored systems DTCs, mode 7:
    No diagnostic trouble codes recorded.

    My friend says it's either the timing belt or timing gear. He says I need to take it to an Infinity dealer as he can't handle it at this time. He also thinks it might be time to replace all the belts. He reset the light and we will see what happens. I attempted to call the only local dealers in my area, which are Nissan dealers, they are closed today and won't be opened until Tuesday, as this Monday is a holiday. So, the story continues.

    I wonder if the cleaner would help? I will probably check into it if the light comes on again?
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Posts: 16

    Funny, I was on my way to Auto Zone to pick up some that Lucas stuff and the engine light went out. But, I did buy it, used it, and did confirm that Auto Zone will check the codes for you if needed. Been three days and the check engine light is still on. I also checked the fluids, the tire pressure, gas cap, and filled it up with premium gas which I don't alway do. Go figure.

    So now, like another poster, my problem appears to be intermittent
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Posts: 16
    meant to say... light went on again after putting in the Lucas stuff. Still on after three days.
  • valovalo Posts: 7
    bostonguy -- mine went out one day on the morning I was supposed to have the codes checked by the dealer. I have heard so many different possible diagnoses, so many different solutions, and had so many different results from code checks that I am convinced the Infinity Gods are messing with me. I suggest that before you shell out any big bucks, have it diagnosed more than once. That is what I will do if the damn light comes on again (off for two weeks now, fingers crossed).
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Posts: 16
    Thanks for the update Valo.

    Keep us posted (as will I).
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Posts: 16
    Hi everyone,

    today i went to the Infiniti car dealer in Salt Lake City, UT. Everything was fine with the car (Infiniti I35). A told them that i just want to change my motor oil. After waiting for a while like 1 hour the car was ready.

    Everything was OK till then. Then the maintenance manager came to me and said that there is many thinks what i have to fix in the car and gave me a list.

    Keep in mind that i did not ask them to do any inspection on the car. I just wanted to change my motor oil. So when i got the list i saw that the total price to repare all the "problems" what they think there is, was 2300$.

    Before that i was using the services of another auto repair and the car was just fine. I rejected to pay 2300$ and to fix what they think was not OK with the car.

    I bought the car 6 months ago and did all the tuneup on it, and the car drives just great.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    We'd need to see the list to comment more about it.
  • Thanks for the feedback on the Lucas stuff. I believe all that stuff does is clean the fuel injectors and any brand will work. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

    Almost forgot, thank you for checking with Auto Zone. I thought it was a big deal to be able to find out why the check engine light is on.

    And one last thing, I hope. When your check engine light comes on, how long does it stay on? When I first got the car I ran the gas very low, it didn't run dry but it did get close. For a couple of days after that, the check engine light came on then went out. Now it has been on for a couple weeks. Is that significant or not? :confuse:
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Posts: 16

    The Check Engine Light is annoying (I'll just loose a little sleep over it) but I must say I do love my I35.

    I bought the car from an Infiniti dealer two/three months ago (I'm former toyota avalon guy) and it runs/looks great. The options are the best I've ever had. Mine is an 02 and only had 54K on the clock. I typically drive my cars till about 100K and them pass them down to the kids.

    Anyways, keep those cards and letters coming on the CEL, we'll figure it out sooner or later.
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    I35 is a reliable car built with high quality engine components. Just following a basic schedule of maintenance, you will have a long way to go with this car. Changing oil, replacing brakes, belts, thermostat, O2 sensors, spark plugs are the very basic things that even an amateur mechanic can do. If you can find a mechanic who would do a side job at home, he could charge you only $20 to 30$ an hour instead of $80/hr at a shop or $105/hr at an Infiniti dealer shop. I do not trust any big repair shop since they tend to trick us to pay more to cover their overhead cost.

    If you love to keep this car around for while, you might consider this step up in maintenance service: Using Synthetic Oil with Amsoil Oil Filter for every 10k-mile oil change, cleaning Mass Air Flow Sensor and cleaning air intake with Seafoam every 10K miles. It is a longer schedule of service but the car will be kept at peak performance.
  • mila2mila2 Posts: 3
    I have 2003 with only 40230 miles on it. warnig light, slip & TCS came on. Dealer cost $ 600 for throttle body. Code was 1121
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Posts: 16
    Hi i had some problems with my cooling system. instead of fixing one of the cooling fans i decided to replace it with new cooling system assembly.

    In the Infiniti dealership I was told that it will take from 3 to 5 days to find the part and around 800-1000 dollars all together with the installation.

    Then i went to a local repair shop. They found the original part next day and installed it. The cost was 380$ and all happened just for 1 day of waiting.

    Keep in mind that the repair shop where I went is a good place with lots of people going there and they also work in the expensive side. But the infiniti car dealer is not trying to help you as much as possible... they are just trying to rip you OFFFFF....
  • derekm99derekm99 Posts: 4
    The car out of nowhere lost all power while i was driving. i would press the gas and she wouldn't go over 500 rpm and acted like it was going to die. i idled maybe 500 ft. and then died. abs/TC off/airbag, and a few other lights were on as well. had the car tested and they said i needed a new battery. just replaced the battery after having both the alternator and battery tested, alternator was fine, switched batteries, and was good. a week later i am having the same problem. Please some one help me out? what is going on? car is a 2002 I35.
  • derekm99derekm99 Posts: 4
    where is the fuel filter located?
  • mila2mila2 Posts: 3
    Had same problem. see my post # 451
  • derekm99derekm99 Posts: 4
    well after hours of messing around with the car, and testing, we found it to be the alternator. the symptoms pointed else where, but in the end thats what it was.
  • mila2mila2 Posts: 3
    Good news, car was fixed @ dealership on Monday. Today (Wednesday) I got a call that repair will be free of charge, i will get back my $600. I'm very impressive with Infiniti relasionship.
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Posts: 16
    My friend, you are may be the only one who is impressed with the infiniti service center. But wait till next time. They will invent 10 extra problems in your car and tell you that you have to fix at least 5 of them and it will cost you much more than 600$.

    I have very bad expiriance with infiniti dealers. Always check with other repair shops for the price.
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