Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • bslatebslate Member Posts: 14
    Hi all-

    I have a 2002 I35 with sport/premium pkg. Has 56,000 miles on it. I baby the car and bought it certified in Oct 06 with 41,000 on it. Now that it is getting hot out, when I first turn the A/C on, it really smells moldy and gross for about a minute or two. I dont run the A/C much. Any ideas to what could be causing this?

    Also, the front passenger window will not go up under "auto" mode. Anyone know the fix? If I lightly hold it, the window goes up fine.

    Otherwise, I have been very happy with the car. Although I had wind noise from the back doors like many others when I got it - put some aftermarket stripping around the seals and seems to have done the trick.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    No you have to replace the damaged parts most likely....for the air bags, things like the igniter would of course light your AIR BAG light...and probably damaged wheel sensors are triggering your other lights.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    That's a common problem caused by mold growing in the moist air created by the AC system. The dealer can probably treat the vents with a solvent but to prevent it again you have to get into the habit of running a little heat through the car, even in summer, for a minute or two every now and then...these vents need to have the excess moisture evaoporated.

    Many cars suffer from this, some very expensive ones. But do the cleaning treatment and then remember to run some heat every couple days and I bet it'll improve.
  • derjimmerderjimmer Member Posts: 1
    I got mine in the mail today, from the following link

    I got these...Neo - Wedge LED Instrument Panel Bulbs Type B, for a 2001 I30. I had to remove the panel below the clock ( which includes two air ducts), with thin screw driver, then unscrew the 2 screws holding the clock to the dash, and pull the unit holding th clock, then turn over the clock, and unscrew the two bulbs. Replaced the bulbs one at a time, making sure they lit, and had correct polarity (if in backwords, they won't lite, so rotate them 180 degrees and they should lite), then put everything back in the order removed. The bulbs cost $2.99 ea, plus shiping, for total under $10. They work great. I got the superwhite.
    Hope this helps.
  • garry6garry6 Member Posts: 1
    Did you get around this problem? I am having the same issue.
  • cwiebecwiebe Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 2003 i35. The sunroof control works in 6inch 'phases'. By that I mean I have to press the open button at least 4 or 5 times to have the sunroof fully open. Same for closing.

    I would have thought as long as I hold the open or close button, the sunroof would keep moving. Is this behaviour normal, or should I contact the dealer where I purchased it?

    Thanks in advance!
  • cwiebecwiebe Member Posts: 2
    I took the car in today, and they did their magic and it is now working. If I hadn't bought the car two days ago, I likely would have had to pay the $67 charge to bring the car into the shop. Is there a source somewhere that explains how to do these things like resetting sun roofs?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I'd guess that a little safety switch which detects obstructions in the path of the sunroof panel was sticking, and they hosed it down with the appropriate control cleaner.
  • harrison1272harrison1272 Member Posts: 2
    Just noticed a very random squealing noise from the passenger side dash when the A/C is running. It doesn't happen all the time, and the A/c is still cooling perfectly. It's just a random squeal. Our mechanic said it might be a pulley or, worst case scenario, the compressor going out. Anyone have/had similar issues?
  • infinitech1infinitech1 Member Posts: 3
    to reset the sunroof motor, make sure its closed completely. and hold down the close button for 10 seconds and this will reset the motor! the close position is for the tilt function. ;)
  • infinitech1infinitech1 Member Posts: 3
    probably the bearing for the blower motor making the noise if its coming from the dash!
  • infinitech1infinitech1 Member Posts: 3
    u1000 and u1001 are control unit communication failure issues.
  • bobv6bobv6 Member Posts: 4
    Has anyone had a problem with their blower motor making sqeeling noises, like the fan is jiggling and not spinning smoothly? Does anyone know difficult it is to change. I know its behind and a little below the glove box. I know some of these fans are tricky to get to. thks, Bob
  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    Has anybody replaced the tires on their I35? My '04 will need new tires within a few thousand miles and I was wondering whether I should stick with the Bridgestone Turanzas or switch to another brand...
  • hovai35hovai35 Member Posts: 3
    It how 135 come s little crooked dont know why its like that my 2003 135 is the smae way took it to the dealership ...and jut blah blah...
  • hovai35hovai35 Member Posts: 3
    my 2002 infiniti i35 check engine light came on last night,while stopping to buy gas ...I had the engine running at the time .After refueling the check engine light was can i get this light it bad gas,or because i open the gas tank with the engine running will it go away..the car has 170,000 miles on it..still runs like a champ..getting the m45 next spring cant wait..keeping this car ..its family
  • cusafrcusafr Member Posts: 184
    Yes, it is because you left the engine running. You should NEVER do this for several reasons:
    1)Your Check Engine Light (CEL) will come on even if you don't completely close the gas cap. It is a closed pressurized system.
    2)It is a Safety Hazard to pump gas while the car is running. You could blow up the place.
    3)You are wasting gas.

    The good news is the CEL should reset itself after awhile.

    If the CEL starts flashing or just does not go out in a few days, take it to the dealer.

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    I have an '00 I30 which I just reshod with Dunlop SP Sport Signatures; they've been good in both wet and dry conditions, though I have yet to face any serious winter with them.

    My old Mazda 626 came with Turanzas; they were noisy but had good stick and lasted 50,000 miles. The local Infiniti store recommends the Potenzas, but they're pricey.
  • slowdriverslowdriver Member Posts: 41
    I just replaced the OEM Bridgestone Turanzas with the new Michelin Primacy MXV4's (the latest version of the MXV4 Energy tires) for my non sport 2002 I35. These tires are a nice upgrade to the Turanza's, they are quieter and hold the road better, both wet and dry. I just completed a quick 600 mile round trip and the Michelin's just perform better.

    I did replace the 215-55/17s with 225-55/17s (one size larger) to have a wider footprint. The Michelin 225's are closer in diameter to the Turanza's than the 215 Michelins.

    I got them at Discount Tire Centers since Costco would not install them on my car.

    I was quite surprised that the factory Turanza's lasted for 57,000 miles.

    Happy Driving.
  • bslatebslate Member Posts: 14
    Hi all,

    I have a 2002 I35 - I live in the Northeast and now that it is getting cold, if I try playing a CD while the vehicle is cold (like first thing in the morning) it skips like crazy. If you are patient (and I mean really patient) it gets better in a few minutes. However, I rarely do this because its too maddening. Once the car is warm, or after a cd runs for a bit, it doesnt seem to be an issue. Ejecting a CD and reloading does not help.

    Anyone have any ideas or experience this same problem? It doesnt make any sense to me.
  • vdavivdavi Member Posts: 5
    I just found this site, I hope someone could give some input. I have a 2002 I35, wth 75,000 miles, I've noticed for a while now, "engine knocking" , the engine knocking kicks in at 1800 - 2000 rpm in most all the gears. It stops after 2000 rpm, I read in an earlier post that changing to a colder plug would minimize the knocking (my mechanic disagrees). He thinks its a dealer fix, only that would include a update of the computer software. Any ideas suggestions much appreciated.
  • vdavivdavi Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the post.....when you did your fuel mixture of 8-gallons 100 octane and the balance 91, did this fix the knocking for good? or did the engine knocking continue after the next fill up? there any risk to the engine by doing this?
  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    Have you tried switching to 91 or 93 octane gasoline? Maybe that might stop the knocking.

    A dealership software update might also sound plausible. Ask the dealer if there is a service bulletin for this issue..
  • vdavivdavi Member Posts: 5
    Since I've been the owner of this car (purchased with approx 36,000 miles) I've only used Sheel Premium which I believe is 91 octane. I seem to recall the service person mention using Chevron Supreme, is this a higher octane? Also, earlier posts mentioned mixing 100 octane with 91 octane to acheive higher octane, are there other gasoline brands that have the 93 octane gasoline? There are web-sites that have a grid with mixing ratios to achieve the desired octane number. Does this clean-out carbon deposits and fix the problem and does this pose any other problems with the car? any suggestions?
  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    Well, I would try finding 93 or 100 octane gasoline; but you might have a sensor issue because I've been using 87 octane in my '04 since the middle of '05 when I realized that I could put 87 octane and see little difference in performance..
  • jjwehrfjjwehrf Member Posts: 3
    Did you get your surging issue resolved? If so, could you tell me how?
  • jjwehrfjjwehrf Member Posts: 3
    Did youget your braking/surge issue resolved? I posted this yesterday...

    Occasionally, when I apply the brakes my foot hits the gas pedal at the same time. This causes acceleration/deceleration at the same time, a dangerous situation.

    When I realize what's happening I don't know how to react. I want to slow down but am reluctant to take my foot off the brake. And I can't relocate my foot more squarely on the brake without releasing brake pressure.

    Has anyone ever experienced this problem with the I35? I've driven many cars over 35 years and never experienced this befotre.

  • rmorarmora Member Posts: 1
    Help, my car is 6 months without power and vibrates much engine can not put my time has been taken many times with various mechanical and can not be repaired. Please your help :sick:
  • stratdogstratdog Member Posts: 1
    My CD changer also skips when it's cold, and I live in Atlanta. I have not found a permanent fix, but two things that help:

    1) Get a good CD lens cleaner (the kind with brushes) and use it periodically.

    2) When it's cold, I eject a CD and hold it in front of the heater vent above the CD player and blow hot air on it for ~15 seconds. I reinsert the CD and wait for a minute or two to warm up the internals of the CD player mechanism, and the CDs play fine after that. My guess is that the CD changer is intolerant to cold. If it's really cold, I sometimes have to do this operation twice.

    I've noticed that some CDs are more susceptible to this problem (for example, home-burned CDs).

    Good luck, Strat Dog
  • young77056young77056 Member Posts: 8
    Hello, everyone!

    my car (24000 miles) has been recently making louder noise when idling, the sound is something like "duh-duh-duh.... " in faster frequency. In normal driving, it can be heard but not quite clear, it may because of road and wind noise overwriting the sound a little bit.

    Another thing is when I park on driveway (not level) to start the engine, the ignition sounds louder. So I thought something may happen to engine mount and it's getting loose.

    I have just visited the local infiniti dealer (only one here in Calagry AB) and they run some diagnostic and said two fuel adopters need to be replaced. It causes about Canadian $660 plus $130 diagnostic fee which I already paid this morning. So total is $790 to fix this problem (I am not sure it going to fix). I will have to go back to the dealer next Monday for replacing the adopters when order arrives.

    So what's the fuel adaptor is? Could someone give me some lesson. Thanks lot!
  • norkoastalnorkoastal Member Posts: 3
    Love the car but wanted to check on a couple things that seem off on this vehicle.. Has anyone experinced the issues below..

    There is a whining sound coming from the belt area. Happens at all RPM's and can be neard on the radio on off stations. To me it sounds like the alternator is on its last legs, or a bad ground, but I haven't taken it to the garage yet.

    The brakes are nice, but the motor shakes a little when its at a near stop.. The idle smooths out once the car is fully stopped.. This happens at the same RPM/mileage rregardless of where I am.

    The peddle has a little play in it that makes the throttle feel jerky like there is a 1/2 inch of float when I slowly step into it, to when the power is applied.. A slight jerk can be felt.

    Other than that the car is immaculate and looks to be a nice cruise for a few years.

  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    Your whining sound seems like its a belt about to go- not sure; I'd get a mechanic to look at that one.

    I'm pretty clueless on all of that stuff, so I'd just find a competent Nissan mechanic who has worked on several Maximas. (the I35/I30 is just a carbon copy of the Maxima with higher levels of equipment)

    On another note, I did find a good set of replacement tires for the OEM Turanzas- I ended up putting a set of Michelin Primacy MXV4s on it and the ride is a bit quieter now, plus the new tires are guaranteed to last 60K miles (Treadwear rating of 620) The ride is a bit smoother too- the OEM Turanzas were loud and noisy as well.
  • cubs9999cubs9999 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 I35 (93,000 miles) which I love but in the last 2 weeks have had continuous problems. First started with the power windows all going down once I shut the car off, intermittent clicking noise for the steering column and the dome light going off and on randomly. Dealer changed the switch in the window and dome light, couldn't hear any clicking and insisted they weren't related. Few days later, and warmer temperatures, tried to use the auto switch for my sunroof, didn't work, but the manual button works. Back to the dealer - changed the sunroof switch - got in the car to leave and my door/ truck ajar lights on the dash wont' go out. Brought the service guy out to look, once again he had no clue and still insists these problems can't be related. After more driving that day realized the dome light doesn't come on at all, the power seat auto setting doesnt' work, power locks don't work once the car is turned off and the light on the mirrors won't come on. Am I crazy or are these related? Computer or electrical came to mind.... Of course they can't get me in until next week to take a look. Any help , suggestions would be appreciated!
  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    Maybe the alternator?
    Just throwing out ideas here.. I'm not very experienced w/ diagnosing problems..
  • gness1843gness1843 Member Posts: 1
    We just started having the same problem. The trunk pops opened and the windows rolled down. Now the remote stopped working.

    Have you gotten any result from your dealer?


    My dealer is in no Miami warren Henry where are you?
  • cubs9999cubs9999 Member Posts: 5
    I am taking the car in on Wednesday - the first day they have a loaner. My new symptom is I have to use the shift override button to get in or out of Park and Drive, while shifting , while depressing the brake!! I live in the Midwest - keep me posted!
  • cubs9999cubs9999 Member Posts: 5
    Well the final fix that solved everything was a blown fuse in the dome light. ever heard of such a thing? but it works now....what caused it to blow we may never know!
  • steelmotorsteelmotor Member Posts: 3
    Please help!
    My Infinity 2004 I35 dash SLIP, TCS OFF, ABS lights are ON after a left-front wreck. Car has less than 16000 miles on it. I replace the complete front left suspension system,arm and weel. How could I reset all or some of these lights or make the TCS system work again? Please help! Thank you!
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    Whining sound may be belts getting loose, but tell you the true, infiniti 3.5L engine is not that quiet even at idle speed if comparing with Accura or Lexus since I have both 02 I35 and 03 QX4. However, it powerful and smooth pick up response really impress my colleages who own the other makers.

    My car now has 98K mile. It got changed spark plugs, front O2 sensor, belts, synthetic motor oil. I also installed an aftermaket chip at intake sensor to optimize engine mode. Now, its gas pedal is really responsive, feel like it stick to my foot at all time. Anytime I put a litle gas, the engine whines a little like an almost mute jet engine sound and the car thrust foward with so much confidence. I once drag raced with a bimmer from a stop light and cut him off before enter to highway. All I say is keep do an extra maintenance on this car and you will love to drive it.
  • vdavivdavi Member Posts: 5
    Can you provide the placeor internet site where this "aftermarket chip" can be purchased? is the installation straight-forward? or is is best to have a qualified mechanic install?

  • norkoastalnorkoastal Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info.. The noise is constant so I think its just the VQ's "note." The power is there and it seems like the drive by wire surging issue is common.. No big deal, but I do miss knowing that my smallest movements were affecting the motor..

    Heads up with that chip mode you installed. Last I heard there wasn't one outside of the "Ebay" mod that does nothing but trick the computer to tuning the car for a colder mix. (Bad MPG's)
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    I got the chip on ebay for $33.99 (including shipping). If you search for "Infiniti Fuel Saver Chip" on ebay, you will find a few different ones. I bought the one for I30 year 93-07 since it include the year of my car. I also checked feedback profile of its seller to see any negative feed back about the chip. After it installed, my car picked up quicker and average mpg increased about 2 miles per gallon (I used unleaded gas, not the premium)

    Installing the chip is just as simple as clipping onto two wires of an intake temperature sensor. However do not get the wrong wires since it may damage your car ECU. I35 has intake temperature sensor and mass air sensor in the same location so you have to find out which wires are the right ones. It's best to get a mechanic to do it.
  • surfandskisurfandski Member Posts: 1
    IF ANYONE RUNS INTO AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM IN YOUR INFINITY I35 2002 GO STRAIGHT TO YOUR "ROOM LIGHT" FUSE FIRST, which is under the lid left and under the steering wheel. The dealership wanted to charge us $700 to change the shift lock. The keyless entry wasn't working, the dome lights were not working, the door chime was not working. The shift lock would unlock if one of the dome light switches was pressed in.
    Putting some keywords here in case someone is googling

    Infiniti dome light shift lock trunk room light fuse keyless remote not working
  • trichardsontrichardson Member Posts: 28
    Well shoot. For the last two weeks my car has progressively been sounding worse and worse. At first I didn't hear the noise as I always have the radio on but the last week it got so loud that now I hear it constantly. Just found out from the service station that a motor is dying that drives the radiator fan so the fan runs at uneven speeds, which makes sense because it definitely sounds like a fan shutting down and chopping up. Only 60k miles and I've had all services done religiously. Of course I'm out of warranty on this 2002 I35. Freaking parts are costing $540 alone and have to be ordered. This is the second Nissan-based vehicle I have owned that had a major issue in year 6 of ownership. If my Honda makes it past year 6/60k miles with no issues I may switch my next car purchase over to them.
  • erediaeredia Member Posts: 1
    I have an Infiniti 135 - 2004. About 2 weeks ago while I was driving it acted like it was loosing power and It was hesitating to take off then all of a sudden it would shoot off. It started flashing all kinds of signs like ABS and TC/OFF. When I finally coasted into my driveway and parked did not start. The next morning I got my car jumped and took it and had both the battery and alternator checked, it was neither and after that it started working fine. Two weeks later, just today, after having my car washed, I tried to start it and its not starting again. I'm thinking maybe something to do with the computer chip or voltage problem but I have no idea. I will have to take it in on Monday, but thought maybe someone else has had the same problem or might know what kind of $$ I'm looking to have to spend. Thanks.
  • jchan2jchan2 Member Posts: 4,956
    maybe the alternator? Just throwing ideas out there... I remember suggesting this before for somebody else..
  • davmarinedavmarine Member Posts: 6
    I have a Inf I 35 2003 that has been great but now the driver side cooling fan is not working and the other fan is very loud like its trying to make up for the lost cooling.The car has not gotten hot nor has the A/C quit but if you turn off the A/C before the car heats up it runs quite and normal cycles.The fan assy comes with both fans ready to hook up and install.Is there a relay or resistor that could stop the driver side fan from running?I am affraid of changing this out and the right side fan still not working.Would sun equipment be able to diagnose this problem?Or is it pretty much put the fan set up in and cross your fingers?Advance am wants 244.00 for both fans set up and the dealer wants 400.00 and it will take a week to get it.They are 127.00 online if you trust them to be new and the right ones.Also which fan is doing what on this model drivers side is to cool what?? its out! the other is running very fast and I'm beginning to get some noise from the compressor like bearings getting old.148,000 miles and runs like a rocket.oil changed every 3k since birth, filters etc.any ideas how hard this job is to take out the old fan assy and put a new one in?Thanks,oh are there fuses that control the fans?
  • davmarinedavmarine Member Posts: 6
    I saw this and it was the throttle body that needed fixed.was warranty work so i don't know what they did to it.
  • jbergmannjbergmann Member Posts: 1
    I have the 02 i35 and it needs to have the plugs replaced. Has anyone done this on the 3.5 ltr engine? Did you need a special tool or how did you do it? I have worked on a lot of cars over time but cannot figure any way to get to half the plugs.
  • tym2gotym2go Member Posts: 2
    My 03 i35 just started doing the same thing (loosing all power and flashing the ABS/ & TC/OFF. Could you tell me what you found the problem to be?
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