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I know the car has high mileage but it has been very well maintained.
What I'm asking is what would anybody advise to look at next? knock sensor , camshaft semsor etc...
Thanks
The knock sensor is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is sensed as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the ECM.
Thanks.
Thank you.
Jule
I have a 03 i35 and the light in the clock has been out for several months now. Not a huge deal but would at least like to see the time at night. Any idea on cost and if I can fix myself? I am not a mechanic but am technically inclined.
I have the rattling noise from take off to about 40-50 miles an hour. Sounds like a loose bolt but have no idea where to look. Previous post seem to point toward a tensioner but not sure. Any ideas are appreciated!
A few months ago I hit a bump and my speedometer went all the way to zero. For the next few week it would occasionally read the right speed but now the disk has flipped all the way to the other side so when I start the car it reads past 160. As I accelerate to highway speeds dial will go to about 120, then when I brake goes past 160 again. Would this be a bad sensor or instrument cluster? All the other gauges work fine.
I also have the wayward sub that seems to work whenever it wants to. I checked connections in trunk and couldn't find anything lose so I have been dealing with it this far. I'm guessing the amp is going out.
Please help! Thanx
My passenger side went out last week and these things cost a fortune at the dealer along with installing I found some on Xexonheadlights.com for less than $115.00 a pair
so the brightness will be the same(CAR HAS 285,000 ON IT) THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE
CAUTION: After replacing a new xenon bulb, be sure to make aiming adjustments.
Hold only the plastic base when handling the bulb. Never touch the glass envelope.
Do not leave headlamp reflector without bulb for a long period of time. Dust, moisture, smoke, etc. entering headlamp body may affect the performance of the headlamp. Remove headlamp bulb from the headlamp reflector just before a replacement bulb is installed.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Disconnect headlamp connector.
Remove headlamp assembly.
WARNING: Never service a xenon headlamp without disconnecting negative battery cable and with wet hands.
XENON BULB (LOW BEAM)
Remove headlamp seal cover by turning it counterclockwise.
Turn bulb socket counterclockwise with keep pushing, then remove it.
Release retaining pin.
Remove the xenon bulb.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
CAUTION: When disposing of the xenon bulb, do not break it; always dispose of it as is.
Make sure to install the bulb securely; if the xenon bulb is improperly installed in its socket, high-tension current leaks occur. This may lead to a melted bulb and/or bulb socket.
HIGH BEAM
Turn the bulb clockwise (LH high beam) or counterclockwise (RH high beam).
Remove the bulb.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
How many screws are there holding the fixture in
I see 2 on the top Is there another one hiding you can't see
OKAY I'm back.
See if THIS HELPS
If you can't find the information I will look for it again.
1) I started noticing a vibration noise when after I started my car and put it in gear....I could only hear it when I was sitting inside my car...if I put it in park and got out it wasn't like I could "hear" anything abnormal...I also started to notice a vibration in the steering wheel...I thought perhaps it was some sort of tire issue since I needed new tires..so $500 later and 4 new tires and alignment, I was hoping that the vibration noise and feeling would go away...it hasn't...Now it seems as if the vibration is stronger...I thought perhaps it was a motor mount that I was feeling...had it checked and they said the mounts were fine... Any clue? Now for issue #2.
2) Battery and Brake lights have started flickering off and on during driving the car. The car momentarily loses power, RPM's go down and I coast briefly and then power resumes...I thought it was the alternator but I had a new alternator put on a year ago on New Years Day! I also had to put in a new battery at the same time, so these aren't more than a year old. I drove up to my local Advance and they hooked it up for me..Alternator, Battery, and charging system came up fine...I could reproduce what the car was doing for the guy helping me and he said to take it to my local garage...I took it and left it for 5 days. The drove it off and on, put it on diagnostic machine and NOTHING!! The mechanic said he couldn't find anything wrong..no codes besides an oxygen sensor.. I left and on my way home...yup, you guessed it...brake and battery lights flicker and car loses power...but it never completely goes out...Does anyone have any idea? I'm trying to avoid $$$ for all kinds of useless diagnostic tests that tell me my car is ok...has this happened to anyone else?? I hate to pay for another new alternator/battery if there is some underlying little problem that is hard to detect...Thanks so much...
P.s... I am a 38 yr old woman that is by no means a car expert and I just hate the way the "guys" look at me when I walk into a shop...All help is GREATLY appreciated!
Can you please tell me the outcome of your above problem?! I am having the exact same problem after a very similar bumper accident. Have already replaced a sensor and fuse, computer has had 3 relearns..... What happened with your car? We're you able to find a reason and fix?
Many thanks
BTW, engines can run a long time with a slightly work chain but if it starts really making a racket, it's time to do it.
Certainly with 300K miles, it's a distinct possibility that the chain is worn.
Labor is over 12 hours, so it won't be easy or cheap. Depending on where you live, this is going to cost you north of $1500.
That's not much of a used car if you tried to replace yours.
If I were to ask at a parts store, do they resemble any old motor mounts from cars of the 60's era? (I doubt that !!)
TIA
) Battery and Brake lights have started flickering off and on during driving the car. The car momentarily loses power, RPM's go down and I coast briefly and then power resumes...I thought it was the alternator but I had a new alternator put on a year ago- I also had to put in a new battery at the same time, so these aren't more than a year old. I drove up to Advance -hooked it up for me..Alternator, Battery, and charging system came up fine.....I took it to local garage and left it for 5 days. They drove it off and on, put it on diagnostic machine and NOTHING!! The mechanic said he couldn't find anything wrong..no codes besides an oxygen sensor.. I left -on my way home...yup, you guessed it...brake and battery lights flicker and car loses power...but it never completely goes out...Does anyone have any idea? I'm trying to avoid $$$ for all kinds of useless diagnostic tests that tell me my car is ok...has this happened to anyone else?? I hate to pay for another new alternator/battery if there is some underlying little problem that is hard to detect...Thanks so much...
FFW to today (May 2013) I have had two new alternators put in since January 2011- 2 new batteries...took my car to an "electrical" guy and he said my alternator was putting out correct "amps" or whatever it is that alternators do...I drove it home from his shop and AGAIN :sick: :surprise: battery light/brake lights flash and then car dies..loses power as I am driving..It's been parked for about 6 months but I am in need of my car so...Anyone have any idea of what UNDERLYING electrical issue I could be having? Something has to be messing up my alternator...3 alternators in 2 years? HELP!!!
ENGINE RECALL: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS. THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Hi:
I owned an Infiniti I35 for more than 10 years, the car had 200,000 miles before it was totaled in a highway accident by a hit and run driver.
I had the car since new (2003), and throughout the life of the car, I have no serious problems with it, I followed the regular maintenance and change oil every 7,500 miles.
The only issue I experienced was a sensor went out at engine port, it was able to limp home with oxygen sensor light on, it costs me about $350 to replace it, other than that, no problem at all.
I changed the tires 4 times, replace the brake pads 5 times, change spark plugs one time, that is about it, the engine runs beautifully, and transmission shift as smoothly as the day I got it, everything hold up very well, and is still the original equipment came with the car.
Very reliable car in my opinion.
Thanks for posting about the recall! My dad bought the 2002 off of a client of his about 4 years ago and he's had to fix a few things and tune it up since they never did take care of the vehicle.
After reading about the recall, everything they listed under consequences has happened except the crash part thank goodness so I'm waiting for Infiniti to call me back so I can bring it in and have them look at the crank, camshaft and time variable sensor and hopefully they will replace them all.
A question I have is, I've changed the windshield wiper numerous times and regardless if its new or old, when it rains, i can't see out the window at all. Using the wiper makes it that much more worse. The only way I can describe it is like water and oil mixed in. Has anyone had this issue before? Do you think replacing the window will make a difference?
Hi Ferdi-
I know this is old but I usually dont believe everything my dealer tells me. For instance, I have a Honda Ridgeline (now driving a 2002 i35 cause someone tboned my truck). Anyways, I have a gel battery, and I always bring my oil changes to the dealer and the guy comes back and said, oh you need a new battery, its running low on life. Then I come back half a year later or more to get another oil change and the lady goes, we couldn't check your battery because it's gel. lol!!! And I've had my gel batter since 2008 and it's 2014 now.
I'm VERY late to this thread (in search of something else) but can't read this comment without leaving a reply for anyone that is searching in the future. The reason the turning radius is the way that it is, is because of the engine torque. Anything less will leave idiots flipping their cars in aggressive, but common driving. Talk to any Infiniti service tech and they'll explain it better than I can. But I've been under both of my i35's over the years and have asked most questions > @alfaber said: