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Cya later Andrew
delivery trucks) and he immediately said it was the CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. He went to stock, got a sensor, gave me a socket and ratchet, told me it was LOCATED on the FRONT OF THE BLOCK, and ten minutes later that motor never cut out again. I hope this helps... Marshfield, Massachusetts.
Another question, when going over speed bumps or deep depressions, feels like the front end is bottoming out in the shocks. There doesn't appear to be any fluid leaking from the shocks...any suggestions?
I have had the drivers side back window fall out 3 time in 7 months. The dealer has replaced the window each time but it is a pain and I'd like to know if it is a bigger problem than just mine.
Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?
The V10 has had a bad alternator cash replacement and labor would have been about 750. I paid 0.
The 6.0 has had 2 turbos, an egr valve, fan clutch (did u know that you truck transmission won't engage when the switch goes out, in the middle of the desert pulling a boat at 110 in the afternoon an hour ffrom the arizona border). I guess costs whould have been about 6000 so far only 75 buck for a fuel filter.
They both have common problems with brakes. I can feel the vibration of warped rotors on both and I think I'll due the complete Power Slot rotor replacement on both along with the ceramic pads. Everything I've read says that is the way to go.I've learned alot about them and if you have questions I may have an answer. But I'm not a tech by any stretch of your or my imgination. Have fun and I really like this site. Good people!
it use to work fine, then it would make a short chirp and tun off, now it just turns off
when i but it in "R"
[email protected] thanks jeremy
Help! Thanks, John
You should be able to negotiate a price for it. It should not be more than $20. Plus they will be done in around a half an hour and you will never notice the door was taken apart. Doing it yourself might mess things up. They know which way the door panel moves to get if form the door itself. I had a similar case with a different vehicle.
1) Rock the plastic cover at the front, highest point of the door (its the one about 6" long) until it comes off in your hand.
2) Gently pry the bezel that holds the power window control out of the hole. Start at the end closest to the front of the car. You can use a pry bar or very blunt screw driver. Don't mar the plastic. It should pop right out.
3) Mark the wiring two wiring harnesses and the holes that they plug into with tape and symbols
4) Gentle remove the wireing harness from the two fittings
6) Look for the screw that holds the panel to the door frame and remove it
7) Gently pry the red light cover on the door panel out of its position
8) Remove the screw that holds the panel to the door frame
9) Gently lift the door panel upwards and rock it back and forth until it just comes loose.
10) Look down on the inside and see the wire that powers the lightbulb in the door panel
11) Turn the plastic light bulb fitting 90 degrees and it will come out of the door panel
12) Remove the door panel.
Reverse to re-attach. Of course, you can drive to an auto-glass company and company then pay someone to screw it up for you but that wouldn't be as much fun.
Now have an 05 Eddie Bauer 4x4 with the 6.0. No problems yet with 5,000 on it. I do notice that it requires move attention driving on the highway. It doesn't go straight like the 2WD model. It seems you are constantly moving the wheel a little. The 2WD was perfect. You could take you hands off the wheel and it would go straight for ever.
I do notice a bunch of difference between the diesel and the V8. I don"t tow anything but like the better mileage. I'm getting about 15. The V8 got 12. Plus now diesel is a little cheaper. I didn't get the extended warranty yet but probably will before the warranty is up.
I really love the EX and would buy another if they keep making them. Do they plan on making them in 06?
it looses power but continues to run, it does this several times in a row, back of the throttle and it stops.
it also has been blowing the turbo to pipe hose.
I was going through rotors like crazy, the dealership cut them twice around every 5000 to 7000 miles but they warped again, I was greasing pins every 4000 miles with amsoil synthetic grease but they still warped. Finally they replaced the rotors
and guess what it happened again.
The truck was out of warrenty now and I purchased new rotors from a place in (I think) Rockchester NY They suggested to go with sloted rotors not the ones with holes in it and that fixed the problem, They didn't give me ceramic brakes but metalic brakes.
So I hope this helps you.
Does anyone no which transline is the return line the one in the front or rear of transmission or the one closer to the motor or closer to rear, I need to fully flush the transmission and I dont want to pull both lines off to find out so I dont make to big of a mess.
Thanks MikeVG in Sunny Smokey So Cal
Is it just me?