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But if I pay MSRP, the doc fee is still there, to be paid in addition to the full retail price. I think they even charge California sales tax on the doc fee. My attitute is, either it's MSRP or it isn't. I don't mind sales tax, license, and registration fees. Those fees are clearly marked as fees paid to public officials. Doc fees are not.
What bothers me most about this is this pattern at some dealerships of finding what price you'll accept, and then raising it. My attitude is, We already agreed on the price. Making it a "fee" doesn't change anything as far as I'm concerned, it's just money. Decide on a number and tell me the number; this isn't rocket science.
Many people have said that negotiating OTD is the surest way to get around this nonsense; and I agree with that. Still bugs me though.
Having a new car is wonderful, and, if we know what we are doing, we can thoroughly enjoy the car-buying experience.
I think you're right. As long as one knows what a dealer's going to do, with a little planning one can stay focused on the bottom line. Assuming the dealer is willing to play ball, it will usually work out fine one way (walk) or another (buy). It does require a little care:
Salesperson: "the price of the car is $4000"
Buyer (thinking he can nail this down): "is that the total price?"
Salesperson: "Yes"
Buyer: "Sounds good"
Salesperson: "There'll be a $400 PDI charge"
Buyer: "I thought you said there were no add'l fees"
Salesperson: "It's a charge, sir---oh and you'll just have to buy this $2000 accessory"
Buyer: (walks)
I think what bothers me is the self-destructiveness in this kind of behavior. I mean in the end it's true you can stand there in the dealership and write up a contract around a good-faith deposit, defining what "price" means, and what "dollar" means, so that nothing possibly could go wrong. I might as well ask for a receipt every time I handed someone my credit card, just in case they ran off with it. A little trust can really help, here. Wouldn't it be easier if MSRP just meant MSRP? Or, to put it concretely, $4000 meant $4000? We all know what license, registration and sales tax is. Isn't the rest just the price of the car?
The good salespeople already know that playing around isn't a good idea, and they don't play these games. Their customers just wouldn't allow it. So, these salespeople are up front about the breakdown, just to make sure everyone's on the same page. This works well when the options haven't been decided yet.
Not having bought a lot of cars, I forgot about doc fees and got hit with this the last time I purchased a car. Sure, the customer can always walk out, but walking out means you have to start the whole painful process somewhere else - like stopping midway through a root canal because you decided to change dentists. Continuing the negotiations after you think you have struck a deal is not a pleasant experience. Next time I go shopping I will be a lot more cynical about the process, wondering how the dealership will try to stick it to me this time.
If they meet your price, great; if not, and their return price works for you, great. Let me assure you that it's a stupid salesperson who would not disclose everything knowing that you're walking when some weird number gets added onto the pile.
Jeez, you guys make this hard!
Duncan
Consumers buy cars every three years, on average - you have to treat buying a car like buying a house - in buying a house, you'd want all the details explained out to you and everything documented - why wouldn't a $20/30/40k car purchase be any different? WE'RE NOT TALKING ABOUT BUYING A $30 PAIR OF JEANS HERE!!
Look at it like this - if someone asks for the "best price on the car", and THEY GET IT AND AGREE TO IT, and the state allows dealerships to have a doc fee, and that store does, why should it be any surprise that the F&I guy tacks it on?
He's doing exactly what he's supposed to do in his job description and what the state allows - just because you weren't astute enough to ask about fees doesn't give you the right to whine or cry about it....
Earlier this year I bought a Cooper Arms .22 bolt action rifle as a gift for my father. Note that this is legal in VA as in many other states. I got it from a well known gun store in KY by the name of Whittaker's. They charged me exactly $12 for shipping and insurance on a $1600 rifle. Less expensive guns are only $10. That's how you build customer loyalty. Compare this method of customer service with the bogus doc fees so commonly seen at car dealers.
John
There are some dealerships, though, that push the envelope, and that's wrong.
There are two ways to handle it - ask up front when you call or visit to look at the vehicle you're interested in - just ask, it's that simple. If you don't like the answer, don't buy there, and you've only wasted 30 seconds of your time.
The second is to not worry if they want to charge you an $1800 car wash fee - if the price makes you happy, and is less than the dealer across the street, who cares how they arrive at their numbers?
Car XXX is selling for MSRP for $30,000. Dealer A is selling it for $500 under invoice. Dealer B is selling it for $1200 under invoice but they have a $300 Doc fee. If all other things are equal which dealer would you buy from?
As long as the OTD price is right who cares how it's broken out.
Just my .02
Duncan
Or if the gun dealer was required to build a secure location with safe, dedicated computer, on-line access, dedicated bank account, overnight shipping, multiple trained staff and pay monthly fees just to get your registration?
Or if the gun dealer needed tens of thousands of dollars of equipment, taining, and fees to provide an inspection sticker for the gun?
Or if the gun dealer had to take the gun off site to fill it up with bullets?
Each industry is different. As long as many buyers are only concerned with howmuch under invoice they are paying, everything else will be an interesting mess.
The last 7 cars i purchased were done over the phone/internet. The out the door price approach saves a lot of my time and grief.
You call me a whining, crying, scared sheep who is not astute. Based upon your profile, I see you are not actually a salesman, but you work in the auto industry. This clearly shows the derision that many in the industry have for consumers, and points out why car dealers have such poor reputations.
Sorry that I am not an expert at buying and selling cars. I'm in the commercial real estate business. In real estate, you negotiate a deal and close it. You don't go to the closing table and suddenly add 1.5% to the sales price, which is what the doc fee I was presented with represented to the price of the car I was buying. It is poor business practice and in bad faith. But, if you think your customers are crying sheep to be shorn, you will do it to make sure you completely fleece every penny out of your "customers" pocket. Like I said, I have not bought a lot of cars and that was the first time I saw a doc fee. Now I know better. I'm just wondering how I will get jerked around next time, after I think I have negotiated an out the door price.
The comments about going in and asking for the best price and walking out in 30 seconds are really funny also. No dealer will work that way. I have even tried to buy cars via internet negotiation, only to get a bait and switch when you get into the dealer. This was on a previous purchase. When I told the salesman I wanted the deal (and truck, which he did not even have in stock) we had agreed upon and I told him that I did not want to start negotiations on a different vehicle with a different color and equipment that he was trying to ram down my throat, I walked out. The salesman gave me an obscene gesture as I was walking out for the benefit of his laughing henchmen in the store. Only he did not know my wife was in the lot and she saw him.
That's not correct in the least - I help consumers. Only consumers. I work in consumer plaintiff litigation AGAINST manufacturers and dealers, so I'll ask you to reel in your criticism, since I'm on your side, not "the dark side".
Hmm, I wonder how many times this real estate mogul watched his clients skirm at a closing when their figures mysteriously changed from $5,500 to $9,500 .. no bait and switch there .l.o.l...
Terry.
I wouldn't get involved, of course, if a dealership in the group I work for crossed the line, because that would be a conflict of interest - also, I'd look for another group to help rather than be associated.
If I were teaching salespeople how to perform the strangle hold, headlock, and other wrestling moves, I could see the "both sides of the fence" assumption - that's not the case.
Oh, yes - Mr. Pot, I'd like you to meet Mr. Kettle...
For pointing this out, I have been called a whiner, a crier, a scared sheep and not astute (stupid). For Pete's sake, I ended up renegotiating to net the doc fee out, but having to do so made me angry.
Now I have been told that I "jumped to a conclusion" by reading that driftracer is under contract to do work for a dealer group.
What is your point? Hitting the consumer with hidden costs at the end of a negotiation process is a good thing? Are you defending this type of business practice?
Answering that the consumer should know beforehand to avoid this fee is not the answer to my question. Claiming that other practitioners do similar things in other industries also does not make it right to spring an unexpected additional cost on a car buyer.
A payment buyer who asked for "no more than $325 a month" and never asked about any other fees is setting themselves up for being upset. If every dealer in the state is allowed by that state to have a doc fee, and every dealer does, how can a consumer get angry because they didn't ask about it?
You asked for $325 a month - you got it! If you want us to disassemble the invoice down to the last penny, just ask. If you want to know why we charge a $5.00 new car "tire fee", ask the state, not us - isn't like we make any money on that!
The thing is, you can ask for all these fees up front - that takes their knees out and takes the wind out of their sales - plus, there's no surprises for you.
I've had consumers ask, as soon as they're greeted, "does yor dealership have a doc fee?". Our folks respond "Yes, it's $55, like most other dealers in PA". There - all done.
Now, there's state set tax levels and license fees - all there is to negotiate (or demand) is the price of the vehicle, and they trade, if involved.
I sure hope you don't. But last time we refinanced, the title company tried to put one over on us, to the tune of $1,200, if memory serves.
When I sat down to negotiate for my first new car, I started by asking, "Hypothetically, if we agree on a price of $10,000 for the car, what will I have to pay to drive off?" One doesn't have to be an insider to do this.
-Mathias
It just Flat kills me .l.o.l. .. folks will offer $1,000 back of invoice, then they want the dealer to eat the sales tax, throw in the leather cashmere floor mats, free oil changes for life and a new service vehicle .. but Nobody pays attention to that $1,200/$2,500/$6,000 of extra closing costs of the refi or the purchase of the new home ..... Why is that.?
Nobody but Mathias .........
Terry.
Every business is different but simular. ;-)
And I would have gone straight to the dealership owner about the salesperson's hand gestures.
Let's see what they are - Terry over in Real World Trade values borrowed my crystal ball this week, so I can't see clear to TX from here...
Title Transfer fee $28 or $33, depending on County
(Texas DOT)
License Tag $50.80 (Texas DOT)
Local Fee (Between $5 and $11.50, depending on County) (Texas DOT)
Financial REsponsibility Fee $1 (Texas DOT)
Might be 1 or 2 additional fees in there, but it sounds like $300 or so unaccounted for.
The TMV price takes into account a number of factors, including the vehicle's invoice price, its manufacturer's suggested retail price, the current supply and demand for the vehicle, the vehicle's relative brand strength and actual transaction price data.
I was wondering if the "actual transaction price data" included the Doc fees. I realize that including the exact fees each dealer charges would be impossible, but if they have actual sales data available, the TMV could include an average for the area.
Thanks
The next time (this past week) I knew that the Doc fee was 500 and this time I had no trade, so I just went into the sales mgr's office (they all know me there by now) and went over their advertised "internet price" - supposedly a "great price" and the "best available" and told him that I would give them a check for 36,000 and I would pay the state sales tax and license plate charge with my mastercard, but that the 36,000 would be the TOTAL that they received (meaning that it would include the 500 bucks doc fee). Brief clarification (he thought I meant the 36,000 was to include the sales tax too), and he agreed in 10 seconds. The car had an "internet price" of over 37,000 - I'll bet the internet sales mgr is still steaming over this one.
But they still snuck in a $30.00 tag agency fee on me. I wasn't going to [non-permissible content removed] about thirty bucks (29.95) but I made sure that they were going to "earn" that fee, because when I came by two days later with the 36,000 bank draft (no I'm not made out of money - it was a pre-approved loan draft) I also handed the F&I person a completed Florida state application for a US Reserve / National Guard plate and told him to get me a US Reserve plate. That'll frost their a$$es and if they don't I'll let the GM know how their tag folks can't even do a simple tag application.
Tracer, you really should set the record straight and let the good person know that you ONCE worked as an F&I person at a dealership (oops I just did that).
Real Estate is NOT fun though. Earlier this year, after I got back from the desert, I decided to re-finance the house because rates had dropped quite a bit while I was eating SANDwiches. So I called my current bank first because they had provided good servicing in the past, but their rates weren't that great, and when I got to closing, I was EXTREMELY agitated with all the "junk fees" that they were trying to pack in to this re-fi package. I walked out of the title company's office. A month later I got almost 1% lower with not as many nuisance fees - but with a different lender, who promptly sold the servicing to Wells Fargo, but at least I don't have anymore escrows with the new loan. I'll take car buying any day.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper Forum
DOC fees are limited to $50 bucks......
Question: Is there any checklist (100 points) or otherwise that anyone knows of which is used by a Ford dealer to prep a vehicle for delivery? I would dearly love to get my hands on one... tay tuned.
Stealing your car's tire's air - That's a new one. A tire can be 10-15 PSI below spec and not be readily apparent. I know, because I have to run around my wife's car all the time with my portable compressor to fill them up (don't forget the spare - I did that once!).
If it's a new car, make them correct any problems. If it's used and still under warranty - ditto.
If it's used and you have serious questions or concerns about the car, take it somewhere else.
As far as a checklist, try visiting a different dealer, ask them about their "certification" process or checklist procedures. Ask the sales mgr or svc mgr. I did see the Cadillac 112 point list (they actually gave me a copy with my last car) and a lot of it is basic, but there are some "real" items on it. for example there is a item on brakes with pad thickness at all 4 wheels, of course mine was "checked" but had NO NUMBERS for pad thickness! Same for tires, "checked" with no numbers! Some items that I've seen dealers make excuses for are the lack of both sets of keys and remotes. That frosts me when they try to say "well, there's only one set".
If it's used, hold their feet to the fire for any missing items that you need! Usually this is best done before taking delivery.
I'm thinking of buying a new Honda Civic Sedan in Raleigh NC and I'm trying to figure out what a fair documentation fee would be. The dealers nearby are trying to charge me $398. I mentioned waiving the fee and one dealer wrote back that this would be illegal. Is that true, and what should the documentation fee be here? Thanks!